Servicing BWR hub.

[Kell]

I cleaned and degreased my chain, jockey wheels and cogs this weekend, but I rode my bike in this morning and it feels (and sounds) horrible.

The rear wheel rotates well, but I suspect the hub needs a lot of work in terms of greasing and stuff.

Difficult? DIY? Even for a mechanical retard like me?

 

[12boy]

I have had the experience of noise and grittiness with a SA S-RF3, on one of my 700 c bikes, which is the 177% standard 3 speed hub. I had the local LBS look at it and they couldn't make it work properly, and they kept it for months, trying this and that. Finally they noticed the hub uses 2 kinds of grease and, once they had that in place it worked perfectly. I had read that the old AW hubs were fitted with an oil nipple and required periodic additions of a little oil as the oil did seep out a bit. I put some 5-20 synthetic motor oil in the hub and it worked perfectly except for the drippage issue. I also acquired an S-RF3 Brompton wheel and began using the oil right away. It runs quiet and smooth but does ooze a little oil. When it gets noisy, usually in high gear, I add a couple of ccs of oil and it is right as rain. The oil goes in the drive side axle after removing the shifter rod and chain, with the bike lying on the left side. I still enjoy the 1 speed hub and definitely use that when I transport the Brompton in my wife's car when we go on trips as I do not want any oil to mar the interior. I have probably gone 5000 miles on the 3 speed, though, so I know it is a good long term solution. BTW, I have ridden the bike on dry streets or on ice with my studded Schwalbes when the temps have been 0 Fahrenheit and it works just as well as when it is 100. I don't know if the hub grease would work well when it gets really cold. Anyway, Kell, you could try the oil treatment before you begin disassembling your hub or taking it in to your mechanic.

 

[Kell]

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I’ve watched a few Vids of people (not fully) disassembling theirs to regrease everything.

From the ones I’ve seen, I’m struggling to work out where the two different types of oil/grease go.

A few months ago I regreased both bearing cups and poured a fair amount of oil in the hub and everything was fine.

This time around it sounds like it’s full of iron filings.

Reading up various reports, it looks like these are fairly bullet-proof and people do a lot of mileage on them, so I suspect I’ve got something adjusted incorrectly AND it needs a proper regreasing.

As it happens, I also need a new rim as this one’s looking a bit thin, so I’ve ordered a whole new wheel.

Last time I did this it cost me £50 for the rim and rebuild, plus £70 in extra train fares and parking. So I figured an extra £50 on top for a brand new wheel isn’t that much extra.

The intention is to look at the old hub in my leisure when I don’t have to worry about fixing it in a day so I can commute again. It’s amazing how quickly those costs rack up.

 

[rogerzilla]

They are quite hard to work on, assuming they use the same No Intermediate Gear (NIG) mechanism as the BSR/SRF3. There is a sheet metal shroud that trips out the driver pawls and it is easily bent. You may have to clean some bits without full disassembly.

 

[Kell]

Well I pulled apart the drive side tonight and it’s very different to the ones i’ve seen online.

The biggest issue is that on the vids I’ve seen online, the bearings are in sealed cages.

Mine definitely aren’t. As I found out when they rolled all over the floor.

Put them all back together, but I’m pleased I’ve got another one coming as I think I managed to get more grit and dirt in it.

 

[12boy]

I will never try to rebuild a hub. But I find it very nice to have multiple wheels. Very nice to have a pair set up with studs and ones without. I have several pairs for my other bikes, too. Good luck with your hub endeavor!

 

[Kell]

I wasn't going for a rebuild.

As I say the videos I've seen online made it look so simple that it could be a 20 minute job just pull the drive side out and get some grease inside.

I now know what to do, but after getting grit all over everything, cleaning all the bearings and inside the housing will take some time.

 

[rogerzilla]

At least the planet cage doesn't use the old "R" pawl springs like the British-made hubs do - there's a real knack to getting them in (I generally push the spring base with a 4mm allen key while being ready to push the pin in with the other hand). The gear ring "R" springs are straightforward enough as access is better.

 

[Kell]

Well, the new wheel's fitted and it's amazing how much better the bike feels.

Just waiting on some new parts and I'll get the old one cleaned up and regreased ready for a new rim.

 

[12boy]

Happy trails, amigo. Nothing beats a bike working exactly as it should. BTW, I've ordered a chain pusher, DR tensioner and a 16 tooth sprocket for my single speed. This, in combination with a 12 tooth sprocket and 53/38 chain rings gives me a range of 71, 50ish and 38. I will try to make a 58/38 combo work with changes things to 77, 59 and then 50 and 38. Either way I can climb the grades around here and do ok on the flats. This will be the lightest way to get that range I can think of.

 

[Kell]

Interestingly, (you can be the judge of whether or not it's interesting) I've ordered new chain, rear sprockets and chainring, but have gone for the 44T instead of the 50T to see how much difference it makes.

I have a pretty steep climb on my way home and it might make it a bit easier, but also quicker in bits. Easier gear for the really steep bits and then switch to something somewhere in between my current 1 and 2 for the less steep.

We'll see.

Not fitted them yet as I'm trying to get as much use out of the others as possible before swapping them out. And the chain has already 'strectched' too much to try it on the new chainring.