Shifter very tight to move

[Shadow121]

Hi all

I got a Marin Argenta last week, just got around to taking it out today.
Its got Sora brifters, the right levers are perfect, the left one is not.

The left brifter moves from big to small ring, but I have to put serious
pressure on the small lever to get it to move on to the small ring,
when I do this I hear a fairly loud click as I force the lever to the right
to engage the low ring there is no such noise off the brifter that controls the rear,
it clicks up and down with a gentle push and click.

I notice the front derailleur is well out over the big ring, and when I try to get to
the low ring although it changes with a lot of force, the derailleur still looks like it
shoukd move further in towards the small ring, if so is this also what is causing me to
need so much pressure to get the chain onto the small ring, or do I simply
need to move one of the two small screws on the front derailleur to allow the deraileur
to move inwards more towards the small ring.

I also note the derailleur and chain begin to rub when on the small ring with two
lower gears still left to change down to, so am guessing the derailleur needs to go
in a little, which screw does this of the two on the front derailleur, there is an inner
and outer one.

If any of what I wrote helps explain my issue, then I look forward to your advise.

Thanks

 

[boydj]

For the stiff shifter, check the cable inside the shifter. They tend to fray in there and you may need a new cable.

For the shifting, undo the cable at the mech, play around with the screws, moving the mech manually to see which screw adjusts which extremity. If you hold the mech when adjusting the screws, you'll soon work out how they work. When you are happy that the limit screws are correct moving the mech by hand, reconnect the cable.

 

[Shadow121]

For the stiff shifter, check the cable inside the shifter. They tend to fray in there and you may need a new cable.

For the shifting, undo the cable at the mech, play around with the screws, moving the mech manually to see which screw adjusts which extremity. If you hold the mech when adjusting the screws, you'll soon work out how they work. When you are happy that the limit screws are correct moving the mech by hand, reconnect the cable.

Thanks @boydj
That makes sense, and aligns with my own reasoning,
I was mulling this over as I awaited answers.

This bike has only a few miles on it from new, bought it off the lady owner
last week, I would say her being a beginner stuck on the high ring and living
on a very steep 2 mile gradient was what caused her to give up the idea of
cycling. She gave me the helmet shorts gloves and glasses, I look well now,
she was blond, am grey.

 

[faster]

I doubt this is a frayed cable - that usually causes it to stick rather than making it difficult to push the 'release'/downshift lever.

I think the problem you have is that the cable is not clamped to the front derailleur correctly. I've made the same mistake myself and your symptoms match with what I had exactly, including the throwing the derailleur far out over the big ring - the cable being clamped in the wrong place amplifies how far the derailleur moves as the leverage is wrong. It is this that increases the forces involved.

I can't remember whether the problem was that the cable was clamped on the wrong side of the bolt or if it just wasn't quite in the right place. Millimetres seem to make a massive difference here! If you release the cable from the derailleur and remove the bolt, I'm sure it'll become obvious and there will be a notch or something for the cable to go into. Failing that, I'm sure you'll be able to google some instructions - it had me confused for a while.

 

[boydj]

For a quick check that the cable is moving freely, undo the cable from the mech and work the shifter while holding some tension on the cable. If it does not move freely, you have a problem inside the shifter. If it's moving freely, then a bit of oil might be required on the pivots in the shifter. Should have said that in the original answer.

 

[raleighnut]

It sounds like the low limit screw is too far out to me if the cage is rubbing the mech.

 

[Shadow121]

It sounds like the low limit screw is too far out to me if the cage is rubbing the mech.

Looks that way, its so far out the shifter barely clicks into low ring position.

 

[cyberknight]

could also be to much tension on the wire , if its not set up right it can cause the issue the OP is suffering

 

[Shadow121]

could also be to much tension on the wire , if its not set up right it can cause the issue the OP is suffering

I will look at that too, when I disconnect the cable to set the stops
on the derailleur.
This bike has barely hit the road, its original, and sadly came
from a local bike shop set up like this,
my other bike came from the same shop, and I had to also adjust the
front triple derailleur on it, seems like the shop want the bikes back
in very soon after sale, both bike were sold to people taking up cycling,
not regular users or seasoned ones.

 

[Shadow121]

For a quick check that the cable is moving freely, undo the cable from the mech and work the shifter while holding some tension on the cable. If it does not move freely, you have a problem inside the shifter. If it's moving freely, then a bit of oil might be required on the pivots in the shifter. Should have said that in the original answer.

I already oiled the derailleurs, will be loosening the derailleur cable to adjust
the stop screws and will be able to test the Cable is free to move.

This bile has done three miles I was told, everything is pristine,
the plastic was still on the cranks.
There are a few light rubs to the paint from storage to the paint
work only, seems very tough paint compared to most.

 

[Shadow121]

I doubt this is a frayed cable - that usually causes it to stick rather than making it difficult to push the 'release'/downshift lever.

I think the problem you have is that the cable is not clamped to the front derailleur correctly. I've made the same mistake myself and your symptoms match with what I had exactly, including the throwing the derailleur far out over the big ring - the cable being clamped in the wrong place amplifies how far the derailleur moves as the leverage is wrong. It is this that increases the forces involved.

I can't remember whether the problem was that the cable was clamped on the wrong side of the bolt or if it just wasn't quite in the right place. Millimetres seem to make a massive difference here! If you release the cable from the derailleur and remove the bolt, I'm sure it'll become obvious and there will be a notch or something for the cable to go into. Failing that, I'm sure you'll be able to google some instructions - it had me confused for a while.

Yes, I will rule this out by disconnecting the cable, and seeing if the derailleur
moves inwards a little, which it should if it’s the cable that is holding it tight.

 

[cyberknight]

I dont trust bike set ups from shops had many with derailleurs set up wrong , last new bike the rear one had been set up so the rar tension screw was at its max limit of adjustment so there was no room for tweaking for cable stretch .

 

[Shadow121]

I dont trust bike set ups from shops had many with derailleurs set up wrong , last new bike the rear one had been set up so the rar tension screw was at its max limit of adjustment so there was no room for tweaking for cable stretch .

I don’t like talking about bike shops, because I have yet to see one
worth their salt, brand new Trek with hole in seatstay because derailleur
was loose and not adjusted, 2,800, shop blamed the young rider for the
damage, refused to replace the frame, charged for new derailleur and spokes,
fitted for free, same shop did not forget the damage when trading in for another,
but we went elsewhere, Canyon, lighter cheaper and faultless from day one.
That was the end of me and bike shops, second hand does me well, always
people starting and giving up soon after, selling a good bike for a fraction of
the cost, that leaves me with money to fix any bike I buy.

 

[iluvmybike]

Remember that there is a trim facility on front mech as well which helps prevent rubbing - big click up goes whole way, little click just shifts derailleur across & vice-versa on way down

 

[Shadow121]

Remember that there is a trim facility on front mech as well which helps prevent rubbing - big click up goes whole way, little click just shifts derailleur across & vice-versa on way down

Thanks @iluvmybike
I did not know there was a trim on the shifter, this may complicate things for me.