Shimano 105 5700 to 5800 upgrade

[Broadside]

My road bike has 105 5700 groupset, it’s 5 years old and has done around 15,000 all weather miles. The front shifter is stiff and has been for a while. I changed the inner cable today and established that most of the friction causing the stiffness is within the shifter. I think the shifter needs to be replaced.

I can buy new shifters but I am quite interested in going 11spd 5800, my wife’s bike has this and it shifts so effortlessly compared to my bike - I am the mechanic for all the bikes in our house!

My question is, can I put 5800 shifters on my bike, will the derailleur be compatible in terms of pull ratio? Not too worried about brakes, I know I would need Shimano slr calipers to get the most out of them. I’m also happy to replace cassette and chain as they are up for renewal anyway. My rear wheel is already 11spd compatible.

Aside from an upgrade which is always nice it appears I can buy new 5800 shifters cheaper than 5700 so it seems silly not to go for it unless I would need to swap out derailluers.

I’ve had a look at previous posts and checked the Shimano compatibility charts, what I am looking to do seems not to be possible, but has anyone tried it?

 

[iluvmybike]

If you are going for 11spd don't bother going to 5800 go to the latest version R8000

 

[smutchin]

will the derailleur be compatible in terms of pull ratio?

No. 10-speed pull ratio is 1.7, 11-speed pull ratio is 1.4. So you'll have to change your rear mech as well.

 

[Broadside]

No. 10-speed pull ratio is 1.7, 11-speed pull ratio is 1.4. So you'll have to change your rear mech as well.

Thanks, that answers it nicely.

 

[Drago]

Have you tried a quick squirt of Duck Oil into the shifter? That fixed the same problem on a 105 shifter for me, as the factory grease hardens with time and starts gripping parts rather than lubricating them.

 

[Broadside]

Have you tried a quick squirt of Duck Oil into the shifter? That fixed the same problem on a 105 shifter for me, as the factory grease hardens with time and starts gripping parts rather than lubricating them.

No I haven’t, and now you mention it I feel a bit embarrassed for not trying that first!

I’ll give it a blast through with wd40 as that’s what I’ve got to hand unless it’s worth buying some Duck Oil, is it much different or better?

 

[Drago]

WD will be fine. If it works do a couple more squirts, leave it a few days, and then a squirt of white grease. I use Duck Oil solely because I have a gallon of it.

 

[Ajax Bay]

+ 1 for the WD40/GT85 dousing as the first action. If nothing else you can get the STIs working properly and sell them to discount the cost of the R8000s.

 

[si_c]

I was getting sticky shifts after last winter on my Sora R3000 rear shifter - took the cable out, and flushed it with WD40 a few times whilst moving up and down the range - this soon sorted it out and it's now running just as smoothly as it did when I got it.

 

[Broadside]

Thanks all for the replies. @Drago the flushing with wd40 has made a substantial difference this evening. I will give it another go over the next couple of days with more wd40, but already it has freed up enough that I wouldn’t consider replacing it

 

[si_c]

Thanks all for the replies. @Drago the flushing with wd40 has made a substantial difference this evening. I will give it another go over the next couple of days with more wd40, but already it has freed up enough that I wouldn’t consider replacing it

Once you've got it where you're happy, it might be worth putting a small amount of wet lube into the ratchet mechanism. WD40 will clean it out, but it's a light lubricant so will wash out easily.

 

[dantheman]

This can be put down to just my opinion, but I don't class wd40 as an oil at all. It's penetrative and it's frees things up but doesn't lubricate, I believe it was designed as a degrease and was used a lot in the military for decreasing field vehicle engine bays etc quickly.... Use it again and then oil, or even better IMO is to Liberally apply spray silicone..

 

[Drago]

Thanks all for the replies. @Drago the flushing with wd40 has made a substantial difference this evening. I will give it another go over the next couple of days with more wd40, but already it has freed up enough that I wouldn’t consider replacing it

Excellent news. Do it a few more times then, as I mentioned earlier, leave it a few days for the lighter fractions in the WD to evaporate out and then squirt the white grease. Wurth white grease is especially excellent.

 

[Ajax Bay]

You're just trying to keep the innards of the STIs clean, clear of gunk, factory introduced or otherwise, and corrosion-free. If you consider how much movement is involved, and the associated forces, no lubrication is really needed (imo), so a regular (?monthly) squirt 'set' of WD40/GT85 on each one will do the job ad infinitum. I'd keep grease and silicon spray for other applications.

 

[Broadside]

You're just trying to keep the innards of the STIs clean, clear of gunk, factory introduced or otherwise, and corrosion-free. If you consider how much movement is involved, and the associated forces, no lubrication is really needed (imo), so a regular (?monthly) squirt 'set' of WD40/GT85 on each one will do the job ad infinitum. I'd keep grease and silicon spray for other applications.

I’m inclined to agree, I have tried spray grease on other stuff it ends up everywhere not just where you want it, and then there is more grease to attract dirt.

At most I was thinking of a bit of light oil such as 3-in-1 but a squirt of wd40 is probably enough.