Shimano Alivio chain wheel, chain ring torque bolt settings ?

[deano69]

Gave the bike a thorough clean after a ride this morning, removed chain wheel and cranks and stripped to clean, all in good condition hardly used really I torqued bolts up to 14nm, which I read somewhere should be 12 to 14nm ?
Other Google searches said 17 to 20nm surely this is too much as threads quite fine ?
I used some fresh cut strips of carbon fibre wrap and covered crank surfaces with misses hair dryer as my shoes over time wear paint off and leaves an unsightly silver streak 😆

 

[Ajax Bay]

Standard crank nut torque is 35-50Nm - and the ST interface is the same/universal: Al cranks and steel BB spindle.
https://manualzz.com/doc/53870901/shimano-fc-4403-crankset-service-instructions
Lightest smear of grease on the taper and on the bolt threads. Tighten it, hit with a rubber mallet (with support from far side), tighten it and repeat. 8" hex key.
But don't keep tightening. The crank squirms up the tapered spindle during use. So gentle tightness after that.

 

[Cycleops]

I do mine effin' tight with a short handle Allen key.

 

[Paulus]

Standard crank nut torque is 35-50Nm - and the ST interface is the same/universal: Al cranks and steel BB spindle.
https://manualzz.com/doc/53870901/shimano-fc-4403-crankset-service-instructions
Lightest smear of grease on the taper and on the bolt threads. Tighten it, hit with a rubber mallet (with support from far side), tighten it and repeat. 8" hex key.
But don't keep tightening. The crank squirms up the tapered spindle during use. So gentle tightness after that.

I think the OP was asking about the bolts holding the Chainrings together, not the crank bolts.

 

[Mr Celine]

The nuts and bolts holding the middle and outer rings to the crank are all steel so unlikely to strip their threads. The usual problem is stopping the nut from turning.

The bolts securing the inner ring to the crank are steel into alloy. I put a smear of copaslip on the threads to prevent them seizing and tighten them as much as I dare, having never found a recommended torque setting.
I'm a bit too gentle though as I have lost bolts from my winter bike and gouged the carbon on my summer bike when the inner ring bolts have loosened.
@Ajax Bay 's post is about tightening the bolts to secure the cranks to the square taper spindle.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Looks like I mis-read (though see OP has 'liked' my post this morning).
Echo @Mr Celine 's point on chain ring bolts: the torque (for outer/middle) is always (ime) limited by one's ability to secure the nut with the two prong tool. The inner ring is secured by steel bolts into the aluminium spider, so should be firm but no gorilla stuff.
I always use medium threadlocker on chainring bolts; not grease.

Shimano says 12-14Nm for road and 14-16 Nm for MTB; bit more for inner ring
http://si.shimano.com/#/ DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf Page 141

 

[cyberknight]

I do mine effin' tight with a short handle Allen key.

 

[TheDoctor]

I can testify that if you lose a few bolts the chainring will bend into a very strange shape. DAMHIKT.

 

[Mike Ayling]

I do mine effin' tight with a short handle Allen key.

A sensible answer!
Save the flipping torque wrench for carbon fiber frames!

 

[ianrauk]

A sensible answer!
Save the flipping torque wrench for carbon fiber frames!

Agree, there's a little bit of over thinking things going on.