Shimano parts

[iZaP]

So I'm looking at new road bikes, and most of them have Shimano parts, and in the same price range, those Shimano parts vary a lot from bike to bike..

So I'm wondering, which Shimano parts (Sora, Tiagra, 2300) etc. are better, if anyone could list them in a list from not so good to better, i'd appreciate it.


cheers!

 

[ianrauk]

Road bicycle groupsets

• Dura-Ace dI2 (10 speed electronic)
• Dura-Ace (10 speed)
• Ultegra (10 speed)
• 105 (10 speed)
• Tiagra (9 speed)
• Sora (9 speed)
• 2200 (8 speed)

 

[accountantpete]

• Dura-Ace Di2 [7970] (10 speed electronic)
• Dura-Ace [7900] (10 speed)
• Dura-Ace Track [7700] (NJS-approved, which is a requirement of all bicycle components used in professional Keirin racing in Japan)
• Ultegra [6700] (10 speed)
• 105 [5700] (10 speed)
• Tiagra [4500] (9 speed)
• Sora [3400] (9 speed)
• 2200 [2300] (8 speed)

Dura-Ace is the top range





I was too lazy to edit it properly like Ian!

 

[iZaP]

Thanks a lot guys!

 

[Grasen]

cheaper=heavier=less fiddling=longer life= for everyday tom,dick and harry

expensive=lighter=a lot of fiddling=shorter life = for professional who has own mechanic

what most "cyclists" need is a combination of the 2

 

[MartinC]

cheaper=heavier=less fiddling=longer life= for everyday tom,dick and harry

expensive=lighter=a lot of fiddling=shorter life = for professional who has own mechanic

what most "cyclists" need is a combination of the 2

Ah. Not as simple as that. Even a the shortest summary goes something like:

cheap=heavy=short life=lot a fiddling

mid range=lighter=longer life=less fiddling

expensive=really light=shorter life=less fiddling

You need to find the sweet spot in each makers range that gives you the price/perfomance/longevity combination you want

 

[Ben M]

With regards to the above, I read something on this subject on these forums ages ago, it went something like:

cheapness
lightness
reliability

pick any two

 

[Grasen]

cheap=heavy=short life=lot a fiddling

mid range=lighter=longer life=less fiddling

expensive=really light=shorter life=less fiddling

don't agree.
ever noticed that cheap bikes with cheap parts never get cleaned, or serviced or anything really, but still function (sort of) for years.
if you want expensive stuff to function optimal then you have to clean, lubricate, caress and talk to daily.

 

[Moodyman]

ever noticed that cheap bikes with cheap parts never get cleaned, or serviced or anything really, but still function (sort of) for years.

You're right, but the cheap bikes you talk of don't see serious miles. They tend to be used by leisure cyclists.

The mid-range groupsets tend to be far more durable for serious mileages.

 

[Grasen]

the first post didn't mention "serious".

the question is so - what is serious?

am I a serious rider if I ride my bike to work EVERY day for 40 years or am I a serious rider if I ride my bike 100 miles every weekend.

my comments were in the "general" category.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

With regards to the above, I read something on this subject on these forums ages ago, it went something like:

cheapness
lightness
reliability

pick any two

Mmmm I remember reading it too, but I don't believe there are many components that are cheap and light. Those that are cheap and unreliable are VERY rarely light. There are far more bike bits that are expensive and light AND unreliable...

 

[e-rider]

105 is a good place to be

 

[MartinC]

don't agree.
ever noticed that cheap bikes with cheap parts never get cleaned, or serviced or anything really, but still function (sort of) for years.
if you want expensive stuff to function optimal then you have to clean, lubricate, caress and talk to daily.

Cheap parts are often of inferior manufacture and materials e.g plastic mechs. They may last if not used much but if you're doing bigger mileages then more expensive parts are often cheaper in the long run.

Generally better parts are made to closer tolerances so are easier to adjust and stay in adjustment longer. They also have better fittings that don't seize or round off. You also get things like cartridge brake pads that make changing pads easier and quicker. Almost certainly they'll be a more pleasant riding experience and easier to work on. I hate it when someone asks me to fix or adjust a BSO - it's hard work and you can never achieve a good result.

As you move up the range further then lightness and performance compromise longevity and price as design criteria. Any bike needs to be clean and lubricated to work properly, expensive stuff is made to work reliably when maintained properly.

IMO the good points for the average enthusiast are 105/Ultegra, Centaur/Athena or Rival/Force but you pay your money and you take your choice.

 

[Rip Van]

I hate it when someone asks me to fix or adjust a BSO - it's hard work and you can never achieve a good result.

Don't do it then!

 

[HJ]

Ah. Not as simple as that. Even a the shortest summary goes something like:

cheap=heavy=short life=lot a fiddling

mid range=lighter=longer life=less fiddling

expensive=really light=shorter life=less fiddling

You need to find the sweet spot in each makers range that gives you the price/perfomance/longevity combination you want

Corrected that for you, the mid range components don't give a longer life than the top range components...