Should have been so simple...

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Mugshot

Cracking a solo.
I've recently replaced the pads on my commuter, I bought resonably generic Clark pads which come with different spacers to give some level of adjustment. The slackening or tightening of the brake cables also gives you plenty of room for manoeuvre, then you usually find you have an adjuster for fine tuning. I don't know what your brakes are like but as you say I would be very surprised if there was not a replacement brake block available. As regards special tools, a screw driver and a set of allen keys should do you, maybe a spanner or two depending on your set up :smile:
BTW, if you can change a tyre, I'll bet you can change a brake pad :thumbsup:
 
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BluesDave

BluesDave

Formerly known as DavidDecorator
BTW, if you can change a tyre, I'll bet you can change a brake pad :thumbsup:

Your confidence in me is appreciated if only I knew what size ******* bottom bracket I needed though. I would so like to be able to all this work myself can you imagine the sense of achievement? If anyone can give me any advice on what I need this is the Chainset...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180746505190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

This is the thingy I bought to remove the old one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160666622277?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The bottom bracket with nothing fitted to it measures 72-73 mm and I have been told it was probably originally manufactured with a 118 mm bottom bracket. If I measure to the ouside if the first crankset washers it measures 75mm. One supplier on ebay tells me that the best quality Shimano one is UN54 or UN55 at £21.99 they seem to think I need one of those at 127.5mm.

I wonder if anyone on here can shed any light on it for me.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Do you have the old BB axel ? Can you measure length.

UN54/55 are the ones. It's a 73mm BB shell you have - standard MTB.

I ordered a UN54 last time for my MTB with a 122mm BB for a 90's Shimano Deore LX triple so that one mentioned at 127.5mm won't be far out - Mine is quite close clearance, so 127 will give 3mm or so each side.
 
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BluesDave

BluesDave

Formerly known as DavidDecorator
Do you have the old BB axel ? Can you measure length.

UN54/55 are the ones. It's a 73mm BB shell you have - standard MTB.

I ordered a UN54 last time for my MTB with a 122mm BB for a 90's Shimano Deore LX triple so that one mentioned at 127.5mm won't be far out - Mine is quite close clearance, so 127 will give 3mm or so each side.

Yep I think thats's it. Take a bow. There does seem to be some clerance between the bulkhead and the pedals now does anyone have one knocking about I can have for a tenner?

I think it must be the old axle because the LBS man said it was unsealed but the more I read on here the less I believe what he said. I fitted a new rear wheel some time ago, or rather "AW Cycles in Colliers" Wood did, this is for the chainset crank arms and pedals. The bike is a 14 year old Concept Conquest 17.5 or 18" MTB.

I have found the bicycle maintainence course where I could do this but it doesn't start till March for the basic and June for the advanced. I need the bike back on the road before then. I will be doing the courses though because they cover a lot of maintainence, repair and replacement of things over two one day courses. If I'm very lucky I might be able to go on to do a C&G, if anywhere outside Manchester does them that is. Have to be evening classes though. Mrs Decorator would not like that though. She wants me to do a trade related course first, I'm looking at plastering.
Still the two one day courses won't be a problem. They're saturdays.

How did I ever get so keen though? It's almost become a way of life. I have withdrawl feelings if I don't ride for a few days.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
BBs are chainset specific. The correct BB for the FC-M131 is 122.5mm. See
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...SI-1LX0A-003-00-Eng_v1_m56577569830758324.pdf
Any Shimano UN series one will do. Te UN54/55s are probably the best for the current purpose.

Also am not sure if Shimano still make freewheels, I have a funny feeling only old stocks or used ones are for sale. But I don't think one needs to buy a Shimano freewheel, If I were buying I would be happy with a Shimano compatible (meaning compatible with the same removal tool) one.
 

Dan B

Disengaged member
I did think it was a bit fishy that comment but he did say that the existing front derallieur would not be compatible with the curve of the 42 tooth chainset I purchased as my current chainset was 48. Somehow I can't see that.
That's actually sort of believable: adjusting a front derailleur to shift perfectly is tricky and requires fiddling to achieve a reliable clean change without rubbing - especially if it's indexed or if you have a triple chainset - and the closer you can get the derailleur cage to the teeth the better. That said, unless you have a fairly posh bike with high-end components that stay in adjustment and never flex, it's pretty academic - you're probably never going to get a perfect shift anyway. I think that's a minor issue at most.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
DD are you able to take a photo and post what your brakes look like? or do you know whether you have Vs, Cantis, or Calipers and make/model? Asking because levers need to match.
 

guitarpete247

Just about surviving
Location
Leicestershire
What is wrong with the old bottom bracket? Is it sealed bearing or the old cup and cone. If the latter try some new balls (1/4") and grease if they are still looking good. I just rebuilt mine for the umpteenth time and, after 30 years use and regular maintainance, they still run smooth. If sealed unit, is the old crank set a triple like the new one?

Have a look here on the Sheldon Brown site. You might find the info you want there or look at some of the links to other pages.
 
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BluesDave

BluesDave

Formerly known as DavidDecorator
BBs are chainset specific. The correct BB for the FC-M131 is 122.5mm. See
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...SI-1LX0A-003-00-Eng_v1_m56577569830758324.pdf
Any Shimano UN series one will do. Te UN54/55s are probably the best for the current purpose.

Also am not sure if Shimano still make freewheels, I have a funny feeling only old stocks or used ones are for sale. But I don't think one needs to buy a Shimano freewheel, If I were buying I would be happy with a Shimano compatible (meaning compatible with the same removal tool) one.

Thanks for that I have a freewheel removal tool and was going to buy a Shimano compatible freewheel but decided to hold out for a Shimano one. Parkers of Bolton said they were no longer made, as did others, and offered me a Shimano compatible one. As it seems ok I'll buy that. This is the one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-C...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item20bf3e00db
 
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BluesDave

BluesDave

Formerly known as DavidDecorator
DD are you able to take a photo and post what your brakes look like? or do you know whether you have Vs, Cantis, or Calipers and make/model? Asking because levers need to match.

They are Calipers and I am currently charging the battery for my Camera. I'm not sure what make/ model they are though. They came with the bike.

What is wrong with the old bottom bracket? Is it sealed bearing or the old cup and cone. If the latter try some new balls (1/4") and grease if they are still looking good. I just rebuilt mine for the umpteenth time and, after 30 years use and regular maintainance, they still run smooth. If sealed unit, is the old crank set a triple like the new one?

Have a look here on the Sheldon Brown site. You might find the info you want there or look at some of the links to other pages.

Just had a look at that and I think mine is square tapered and also that it is a 118mm one. If this is the case I don't need to replace it because if they can be serviced it can last another 14 years all by itself can't it?

The old crankset is a triple like the new one. I have a feeling that the bottom bracket I have on there would fit. I mean the guy in the LBS did not even take a proper look at it to make sure more of a glance really.
I will post some photos. Or at least I will try to post some photos, last time I tried it said something about reducing the size but that was on the old forum.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
That freewheel from Parker looks ok to me.

Regarding the existing BB, did you manage to check to see if it is ok per post #19 of http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/sad-news-and-expense.89037/ ?

Others should chip in if I have missed something, Imho the biggest potential difficulties re DIY in this case are: a) if the existing freewheel can not be removed by a Shimano freewheel removal tool, and b) if the existing BB can not be easily removed by a C spanner or standard Shimano bb tool. Clear close-up photos of existing freewheel and BB will therefore be helpful.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
I plan to do a couple of Cycle Maintainence courses next year both beginners and advanced at a local college. There is a City & Guilds course run by Cycletech but unfortunately it only seems to be in Manchester which is not much good for me living right on the edge of London.

I wonder if I should get a front pannier rack for the MTB hmm.:wacko:

This one is in London
 
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BluesDave

BluesDave

Formerly known as DavidDecorator

Thanks, but I've just had a look at it and the course seems to be VRQ not NVQ which is what City & Guilds has been shamefully changed to and it's £990 for a 10 day course which is well beyond what I can afford, wheelbuilding is £200 on top of that and thats before you do the foundation course for that. Thats just level 2. I daren't look at how much the level 3 course is. Thats not to mention the £500 RVQ subs they want before you start the thing.

I think the ones I have found for one day in March and June will have to suffice in teaching me basic maintainence until I win the lottery and can afford to take it further.

Still thanks for looking anyway.
 
Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op do one day courses at all their branches, but unfortunatly they still arn't much further south than Manchester so that may not be much help.


P.S. The company mentioned by Ianrauk does one day basic courses at £100 which may be more within you budget.
 

Pikey

Waiting for the turbo to kick in...
Location
Wiltshire
I've got a deore crankset on a square taper you can have for fifteen, hollowtech, its a 44. It's not that hard to do the jobs you mention and if you did get stuck, you have another bike to ride whilst you get it fixed up!
 
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