Shower Rail attachment to weak wall.

[rogerzilla]

Dot and dab is evil stuff used by builders to save time and money. Metal self-drill Fischer plugs work for light to medium loads but must never be able to rotate. You sometimes have to snip the end off and drill a pilot hole if the air gap is quite narrow.

For heavy loads that tend to pull on the fixing, you have to go into the masonry behind. This raises the risk of crushing the plasterboard into the gap. Battens work for things like curtain poles, as they spread the load, but are useless in a shower. The ultimate solution is Corefix fixings, which look like wallplugs and screws but bridge the air gap with a rigid sleeve. They cost an absolute fortune.

 

[Adam4868]

Dot and dab is evil stuff used by builders to save time and money. Metal self-drill Fischer plugs work for light to medium loads but must never be able to rotate. You sometimes have to snip the end off and drill a pilot hole if the air gap is quite narrow.

For heavy loads that tend to pull on the fixing, you have to go into the masonry behind. This raises the risk of crushing the plasterboard into the gap. Battens work for things like curtain poles, as they spread the load, but are useless in a shower. The ultimate solution is Corefix fixings, which look like wallplugs and screws but bridge the air gap with a rigid sleeve. They cost an absolute fortune.

By dot and dab I presume you mean dry wall ? As long as fixed with sufficient adhesive it's far from money and time saving.Ive layed bricks with dry wall adhesive,you can get a decent fixing in it aswell.Just have put plenty on.

 

[bobzmyunkle]

Croydex Slenderline - these have ceiling brackets. Can you add extra brackets to reduce the pull on the wall fittings?

 

[rogerzilla]

By dot and dab I presume you mean dry wall ? As long as fixed with sufficient adhesive it's far from money and time saving.Ive layed bricks with dry wall adhesive,you can get a decent fixing in it aswell.Just have put plenty on.

Dry wall is more of a USian term for ir, although it's sometimes called dry lining in the UK.

Put plenty of what on? I don't understand your point about fixing.

Most volume buiders use dot and dab because there is little drying time compared to two coats of traditional plaster, not much mixing and it covers a multitude of sins like uneven brickwork.

 

[Adam4868]

Dry wall is more of a USian term for ir, although it's sometimes called dry lining in the UK.

Put plenty of what on? I don't understand your point about fixing.

Most volume buiders use dot and dab because there is little drying time compared to two coats of traditional plaster, not much mixing and it covers a multitude of sins like uneven brickwork.

Who wants to pay for wet plastering such as sand/cement,browning,bonding anymore.As I said dot and dab,drywall,dri lining or whatever you want to call it has it's pros and cons.Speed and drying time ect,insulation etc.But as for fixings if you use enough adhesive and in the right places it's solid,even to drill into for a fixing.Otherwise gripits...I've hung TVs,Radiators with them no problem.

 

[rogerzilla]

You'd be lucky if there was a dab of adhesive behind all three stanchions of a curtain pole! Gripits are only as strong as the plasterboard, too.

I'm lucky - Lovell built this house as late as 1989 and it's got real plaster. No problem hanging anything on the external walls and it's refractory enough for the wood burner to sit in front of. Plasterboard would have needed ripping out behind the stove and replacing with something else.

 

[CXRAndy]

Who wants to pay for wet plastering such as sand/cement,browning,bonding anymore.As I said dot and dab,drywall,dri lining or whatever you want to call it has it's pros and cons.Speed and drying time ect,insulation etc.But as for fixings if you use enough adhesive and in the right places it's solid,even to drill into for a fixing.Otherwise gripits...I've hung TVs,Radiators with them no problem.

I told my plaster boarder to apply full dabs where I sprayed the bare walls. These were behind radiator mounts, curtain rails and toilet roll holder positions.

Stud walls where secure fixings were needed I fitted plywood sheets 18mm thick between studs or in the case of the water tank cupboard fully boarded it out with boarding before a layer of plaster board. The plumbers were grateful

 

[figbat]

Is one option to drill a hole through the plasterboard, then inject a filler/adhesive, allow to dry then crack on?

 

[Adam4868]

I told my plaster boarder to apply full dabs where I sprayed the bare walls. These were behind radiator mounts, curtain rails and toilet roll holder positions.

Stud walls where secure fixings were needed I fitted plywood sheets 18mm thick between studs or in the case of the water tank cupboard fully boarded it out with boarding before a layer of plaster board. The plumbers were grateful

The correct way to do it as discussed before.Nothing wrong with dot and dab if it's done correctly.Fixings are solid when fixed in the adhesive.