Siezed rear derailier cable.

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
Anyone had a problem with a Planet X internal rear derailier cable. I have a mates bike to service, its sat in his garage for over a year, not a well looked after bike, The inner rear derailer cable was seized solid in the bottom bracket area, the only way i could get it out was to cut through the cable at the bar end, then wrap the cable round the cassette and slowly turn wheel backwards, it had been soking over night in wd40, when it came out it was really badly rusted, the tube it runs in has either collapsed or is bunged up with rust or crap, now i can't get the new cable back in, anyone else had this problem.
 

Cycleops

Guru
Location
Accra, Ghana
Sounds a nightmare. Caused by neglect. You'll obviously have to replace the outer, any pics?
 

robgul

Guru
The original description isn't totally clear . . . the inner cable wire runs "bare" through the frame from the lever's outer cable stop on the downtube and then under the BB (where the guide can usually be removed) and then, still bare, through the rear stay and emerge into the flexible outer to the mech.

You've obvously got the inner cable(s) out now BUT it would probably have been easier to cut the cables where they pass under the BB, I am assuming in an exposed guide, and pulled them out from there?

If you have pulled the bare cable out of the frame then you're into a fishing expedition to get the new cables through!

There are some Park Tool and GCN videos that show how to remove and refit internal bare cables using a length of the inner plastic tube from gear cable outer (the white plastic tube - strip off the plastic covering and remove the wires to get the length of tube) - the process is easy, using the old cable to thread the plastic tube through the frame and then pass the new cable through the guide tubing ( and then remove the guide tubing) ... still with me?!?!?

Where I have on the odd occasion lost the bare gear cable in the frame it's often easier to use a brake inner (which is a little thicker and stiffer than gear inner) to thread through in order to then use the thin plastic tube technique to fit a new gear cable

[All this is based on how my own PlanetX carbon machine is and working on quite a few internal cable machines at the shop]

Rob
 
OP
derrick

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
The original description isn't totally clear . . . the inner cable wire runs "bare" through the frame from the lever's outer cable stop on the downtube and then under the BB (where the guide can usually be removed) and then, still bare, through the rear stay and emerge into the flexible outer to the mech.

You've obvously got the inner cable(s) out now BUT it would probably have been easier to cut the cables where they pass under the BB, I am assuming in an exposed guide, and pulled them out from there?

If you have pulled the bare cable out of the frame then you're into a fishing expedition to get the new cables through!

There are some Park Tool and GCN videos that show how to remove and refit internal bare cables using a length of the inner plastic tube from gear cable outer (the white plastic tube - strip off the plastic covering and remove the wires to get the length of tube) - the process is easy, using the old cable to thread the plastic tube through the frame and then pass the new cable through the guide tubing ( and then remove the guide tubing) ... still with me?!?!?

Where I have on the odd occasion lost the bare gear cable in the frame it's often easier to use a brake inner (which is a little thicker and stiffer than gear inner) to thread through in order to then use the thin plastic tube technique to fit a new gear cable

[All this is based on how my own PlanetX carbon machine is and working on quite a few internal cable machines at the shop]

Rob
Not on this one. it has a tube running inside the downtube over the top of the BBand along to the exit at the end. There is no hole under the BB and no clearance for any cables.
 

Ian H

I am an ancient randonneur, & I stop often for tea
Location
East Devon
A few suggestions: put plenty of light oil through the hole. Use a length of solid wire to poke through. If you have access to a compressor, you might be able to blow it clear.
 

si_c

Veteran
Location
Wirral
Try a length of cotton and a hoover - that should get something through the complete run, then thread the new inner sheath over the cotton and once that's through pull a cable through.
 

keithmac

Veteran
Sacrifcial gear cable on a drill with loads of WD40?, sounds a pants design if it is 1 length of steel tube inside the frame!.

I'd try rodding it like a drain with a fresh cable and some rust removal spray or wd40. Once you've got the cable through pump a bit of thick oil down the tube abd coat the cable with it as well.
 

I like Skol

Hold my beer and watch this....
Try a length of cotton and a hoover - that should get something through the complete run, then thread the new inner sheath over the cotton and once that's through pull a cable through.
I have used this technique and it is quite effective as the cotton will easily emerge at the vacuum suction point.
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
Jam a length of wire into the end of the old cable outer, jam it into the end of the replacement cable outer and use the old outer to guide the new as you push it gently through the frame?
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Take the bottom bracket out and look properly. It could be the cable housing is kinked due to poor install from new and rust has done the rest. I remember my planet x TT bike had poor kinked cables before I converted to Di2
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Had it on old clunkers with cheap galvanised cables and cheap outers, corrosion around the cable effectively expands to fill the outer, it really was tight.
TBF, because it was an old bike I got it apart, cleaned off the corrosion, oiled the cable, cleaned out the routers, lots of penetrant, and refitted the cable. It worked acceptably (for an old clunker).
 
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