Sizing on a traditional road bike

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Tim330

Active Member
Location
Cheshire
I’m looking at a couple of vintage road bikes on EBay with a 21” frame. Both are resto projects and would need some work to be usable so not looking at paying much. They are on 27” wheels, steel frame.

Just wondering if they might not be a little small for me as I’m 5’10” with 32 inside leg. The sizing charts I’ve looked at seem to put me on a slightly larger frame but how important is this on vintage bike I would use on sunny occasions?
 

Bobtoo

Über Member
I'd be looking for a 22.5 or 23" frame, I think a 21" frame would be on the small side.
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
My "rule of thumb" used to be height in inches divided by 3. At 5' 9", I used to ride 23" frames. But my tandem has a 21" front and I find that comfortable as well.

If the seat angle is more relaxed then the head, as you raise the bars and seat, they diverge, increasing the dist between bars and seat, so giving the same position as a larger frame.

Good luck with your projects.
 

Spiderweb

Not So Special One
Location
North Yorkshire
E8AECE34-838D-493D-918D-640B2563F3DF.jpeg
This is my 21” framed traditional road bike set up for me at 5ft 8” and 29 1/2 inside leg. You are only 2” taller, I think I’d take a punt and buy it.
Are you able to sit on it before you make a decision?
 
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Tim330

Tim330

Active Member
Location
Cheshire

Hopefully I’ll be able to try one, as it’s not too far away. The seat and headstock look about parallelmso raising them may work. If not I’ll hang on and hope for a bigger frame.
 
Location
Brussels
I am 5’10” and about 32 inside leg. A 57 cm or 22.5” frame gives me the required “fistful of seatpost”. That said a 21” would give you plenty of stepover space in case of a rapid dismount ^_^.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Wait for a bigger frame.
 

Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
I’m 5’10” with 32 inside leg.

I am the same measurements as you, I have 54cm and 55.5cm frames, I find the top tube to be the most important measurement, about 55-56 for me, the 54 bike has a longer stem than the 55.5, I would ride the 21" and adjust seat and stem to suit, I rode a 52cm for a while it was OK

I like to see plenty of seat post and to be able to read all the writing on the seat post (if it has any) seat and stem adjustment can make lots of bikes rideable.
 
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Deleted member 1258

Guest

Hopefully I’ll be able to try one, as it’s not too far away. The seat and headstock look about parallelmso raising them may work. If not I’ll hang on and hope for a bigger frame.

Looking at your picture it looks like the stem is at max hight.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Rule of thumb used to be inside leg less 9" as a starting point. 11 for MTB.
You can also use the "height divided by 3" formula - or even use both formulae and average out the result of each method. My results suggest I should theoretically have almost a 24" road frame, so I try to go for 23"-23 1/2" as that is the nearest mass-produced standard size. I recently got a secondhand Raleigh Gemini flat-bar in 22 1/2" frame size, which is a tiny bit small and needs more seatpost on show than I would like, but it's made from 531 so I accept the slightly compromised fit for the super-nice riding quality. I've also got a 1991 Raleigh lugged 501 MTB which is 23" and with the high BB clearance there's not much room for mishaps on the standover height! I definitely won't use it for MTB riding, more as a bomb-proof heavy duty road machine.
The trouble with compromised frame sizes is more to do with the Top Tube length than the actual frame size, IMHO. Smaller frames tend to have a shorter TT, and larger ones a longer TT, and TT length can make a big difference to bike comfort. My 23" MTB frame has a 23" TT and a ridiculously long 125 mm stem, so is a real stretch. I'm now using a 85-90 mm stem from a scrap Pioneer plus a high bar height in order to avoid over-reaching and making by back and shoulders ache.
 
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