Sks chromoplastic guard - rivets ripped out

[Tom B]

The problem with steel pop rivets is that they may break themselves through the plastic when fitting them.
The problem with alu pop rivets, that risk that much less, is that alu is soft, vibrations will make the plastic wear them, causing play, more rattle, more wear, until the hole grew bigger than the rivet, and the connection coming loose.

The issue I have found is not that Alu rivets enlarge the plastic, but the steel bracket or brace, vibrates, jiggles and moves and ultimately cuts through the soft rivet.

 

[Big John]

The problem with steel pop rivets is that they may break themselves through the plastic when fitting them.
The problem with alu pop rivets, that risk that much less, is that alu is soft, vibrations will make the plastic wear them, causing play, more rattle, more wear, until the hole grew bigger than the rivet, and the connection coming loose.

Same with bolts, even with washers, when sufficiently tensioned they will compress the plastic, causing cracks, without enough tension, they will come loose.

So, I started to do what I described in previous post.
The problem ceased repeating.
If a guard / fender gets a hit, nothing breaks, instead the steel wire "gives", which can have quite some bend cycles before breaking.
And replacement is just another piece.

Just an idea I arrived at, many years ago, that proved itself all times since. Instead of bolting ziptie things together, use connections that can absorb energy, like pieces inner tyre, bend washing line.

The rear guard of my avatar bike is an assembly of 4 pieces of 4 different guards, connected together by overlaps with holes drilled through, then washing line pieces bend together.
If it gets a smack and deforms, I can get it back like it was by just pushing and bending again.

Have you ever tried doing it instead of theorising about it? You'll be surprised. Pop rivets work. I've got enough bikes with pop rivetted mudguard repairs. We're not building the Eiffel tower here. We're fixing a poxey mudguard.

 

[EckyH]

The issue I have found is not that Alu rivets enlarge the plastic, but the steel bracket or brace, vibrates, jiggles and moves and ultimately cuts through the soft rivet.

You contradict the expert for washing lines, sprockets and chainrings with broken off teeth. How dare you!

E.

 

[VinSumRox]

I used cable ties on mine, lasted for several years

 

[Domus]

I would use some epoxy and a couple of rivets. The rivets would give mechanical fixing and the epoxy would prevent movement.

 

[Moodyman]

Although a pop rivet with washers is probably the best solution. This assumes the OP has a rivet gun.

A cable tie is a good permanent fix. It’s also neater than Nuts/Bolts and washers.

 

[Tom B]

You contradict the expert for washing lines, sprockets and chainrings with broken off teeth. How dare you!

E.

Sorry.

.... YMMV

 

[matticus]

Just an idea I arrived at, many years ago, that proved itself all times since. Instead of bolting ziptie things together, use connections that can absorb energy, like pieces inner tyre, bend washing line.

This seems like quite good general repair advice. I use zip-ties for lots of things, but it's obvious they are brittle and I've had a few break after years exposed to vibrations and "the elements". (I carry many spares, obvs, as they weigh almost nothing). So they're great things ... but not perfect!

I have a couple of retro-tastic toe-clip straps in use currently. No plastic, no velcro!

 

[matticus]

(aren't these sort of queries funny? You post a question in the evening, and by morning there is either tumbleweed, or 20 replies and a minor technical spat brewing )

 

[Tom B]

(aren't these sort of queries funny? You post a question in the evening, and by morning there is either tumbleweed, or 20 replies and a minor technical spat brewing )

I think.. that's essentially that describes any discourse on any internet discussion forum.

.and probably why acronyms such as

IMHO
YMMV

appeared and we're so prevalent in the early days of newsgroups

 

[Dogtrousers]

All depends on how much clearance you have to play with between tyre and guard, what tools you have to hand, what you have in your bits box etc.

Personally I'd try a cable tie cos I'm lazy and I've successfully bodged a mudguard bridge that way and it lasted for ages (not exactly the same problem as yours admittedly)

If that doesn't work, or fails after a while I'd try pop rivetting it, cos I own a pop riveter. If I could find some suitable nuts and machine screws I might try them with lashings of threadlock but I doubt I have anything suitable.

Just follow your bodging instincts, and at the same time start putting pennies into a jam jar labelled "Matticus' New Mudguard Fund".

 

[C R]

(aren't these sort of queries funny? You post a question in the evening, and by morning there is either tumbleweed, or 20 replies and a minor technical spat brewing )

Minor? Did you see the snapped spindle thread?

 

[Big John]

Minor? Did you see snapped spindle thread?

Did we see the spindle thread? I glanced at it but I'm waiting until it comes to the big screen. I believe the film rights have been bought by Netflix.

 

[JonBuoy]

I wouldn't put a cabletie through the rivet holes.
This temporary cabletie bodge that I applied ten years and tens of thousands of miles ago is still working.

 

[MichaelW2]

If you decide to get new set of SKS mudguards, the new metal hardware fixings are not as good as on old ones.

I repaired popped rivets with nuts, bolts, washers.