Snapped Bolt in Integrated KSA-18 Kickstand Hole - How to Remove

[wiggydiggy]

During a recent check up on my bike I noticed my kickstand was loose, cause was one of the bolts has sheared in the hole and the other close to (it was bent but have now removed it). How do I get this out safely, its in the frame so any wrong move could effectively write the bike off. I understand the logic that I need to reverse metal drill bit to make a small hole through the centre of the bolt and use a 'special tool'.

But what to order from and where I am unsure of, can anyone offer suggestions please?

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If succesful I know I need to order a much more heavy duty kickstand as the one I have can obviously not take the weight I was putting on it.

 

[All uphill]

I hope I'm wrong but is there a vertical line on the chainstay immediately above the sheared off bolt? Hopefully it's just a mark not a crack.

One option would be to leave the sheared off bolt and fit a centre stand, if possible.
Otherwise I would drill out the bolt, taking care not to damage the threads.

Good luck!

 

[wiggydiggy]

I hope I'm wrong but is there a vertical line on the chainstay immediately above the sheared off bolt? Hopefully it's just a mark not a crack.

I hope not! It's pitch black and raining here now but I can go out with the big torch in a bit to have a look. I can't see anything myself though, zoomed in:





I am concious its probably been like that for a while and rubbed some paint off.

One option would be to leave the sheared off bolt and fit a centre stand, if possible.
Otherwise I would drill out the bolt, taking care not to damage the threads.

Good luck!

Yeah I've done a bit of searching and understand I need a reverse drill bit for the drilling part (so that when I drill, it doesn't tighten and possibly may come out) just wondered if thats a specialised part. I have a little quite good DIY shop in town I can visit later this week to ask as well.

Ps Centre would be my preference but its an eBike and centre room is at a premium, I'll have to have a look in the daytime

 

[Drago]

Good quality drill bit, bolt extractor, out she jolly well comes.

 

[All uphill]

I hope not! It's pitch black and raining here now but I can go out with the big torch in a bit to have a look. I can't see anything myself though, zoomed in:



View attachment 755034

I am concious its probably been like that for a while and rubbed some paint off.


Yeah I've done a bit of searching and understand I need a reverse drill bit for the drilling part (so that when I drill, it doesn't tighten and possibly may come out) just wondered if thats a specialised part. I have a little quite good DIY shop in town I can visit later this week to ask as well.

Ps Centre would be my preference but its an eBike and centre room is at a premium, I'll have to have a look in the daytime

That looks much better than the original image on my small phone.

 

[Paulus]

Would it not be possible to just drill the offending bolt out, and then put a suitable nut and bolt in its place.

 

[PaulSB]

How do I get this out safely, its in the frame so any wrong move could effectively write the bike off.

I don't mean to be rude but if you're having to ask this question you should find someone with the relevant expertise to do it for you. I've no idea what that would cost? £25-30??? A damn sight cheaper than a new frame.

Like you I know what to do. I understand the principle. I wouldn't think of learning how to do this on my bike. My advice is simple

Don't do it!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I don't mean to be rude but if you're having to ask this question you should find someone with the relevant expertise to do it for you. I've no idea what that would cost? £25-30??? A damn sight cheaper than a new frame.

Like you I know what to do. I understand the principle. I wouldn't think of learning how to do this on my bike. My advice is simple

Don't do it!

This is good advice. "Drilling out" a bolt stuck in an aluminium piece is a tricky operation and best left for a skilled operator. Do NOT think you're just going to aim your drill and go. It will go horribly wrong. If you have not done this a zillion times before, don't. Also make sure the pal you're asking to do it for you (just because he has a drill bit set and a 4 kW hammer drill) knkows more than just who to ask to hold his beer.

 

[Profpointy]

I have attempted to use screw extractors but without success; each time I snapped the extractor making the problems worse. Not to say they don't work and in fairness the bolts were badly damaged as well as merely stuck. It is extremely hard to drill out a snapped extractor as they are very hard steel.

On possibility is to use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the broken bolt, if geometry permits, and then unscrew with a flat screwdriver as if it were a grub screw. This has worked for me.

Another option is drill out the bolt entirely with and re-thread a half size up - if there's enough meat left in whatever it's screwed into. I have done this successfully once or twice, sometimes with a helicoil, sometimes just going from 5mm to 5.5mm or whatever.

The arguably simplest option is to grind off the whole bracket and not bother with a kick stand. I have never needed one and just lean against a fence or tree or whatever. Appreciate some people like kick stands, and clearly you seenthe value, but evidently it isn't strong enough for the job and next failure could damage the
frame proper, so maybe doing without is best

 

[PaulSB]

Possibly, though I'd like to remove it properly to keep the thread permanently useable.



Neither of you being rude at all, it's good advice! I'm trying to get the gist of what's needed to make a decision.

I do have a good LBS and they'll be my next stop after the DIY shop. Chances are I will end up giving the job to them.

Thank you. If you have a good LBS, go there. They will have seen the problem many times before.

Don't bother with the DIY store.

 

[Espresso vecchio]

Don't even attempt to remove it yourself...and here is the cautionary tale....

My daughter's father in law arranged to have his cambelt and aux belts replaced by the Volvo agent as the 10-year interval was approaching on his truly concours V70; always dealer-serviced. The dealer rang up mid afternoon to say that the service and MOT were fine but that the aux tensioner bolt had sheared off level with the engine block. (This is a genuine occasional complication on this model - just read the Volvo forum).

'Don't worry, Sir, this does happen occasionally but our specialist engineer will be in on Monday to remove it'. He was loaned a brand new XC90 demonstator.

The specialist engineer came to drill the bolt out...but despite being the specialist at the Volvo dealership, he failed to use the special Volvo jig which is designed for and used only for this one job. He drilled and drilled, then struck water! A new engine block is no longer available.....so he got a brand new engine from the dealer and the dealer's insurance for his car. After a VERY tense couple of weeks all ended well - he couldn't believe his luck.

PS Wiggy.....my bike is identical to yours...I'm off to the barn to inspect mine now!

 

[Espresso vecchio]

PS Wiggy.....my bike is identical to yours...I'm off to the barn to inspect mine now!

PPS.....an hour or so later - I've just checked my bike and Mrs EV's which are the same make and model. Even though I checked the two bolts on both bikes at the end of the summer, I found tonight that the front bolt on each is loose, allowing the bracket to pivot slightly; the back bolts were as tight as they should be. Easily tightened but I'll keep a closer watch!

Good luck Wiggy

 

[CXRAndy]

Because its an aluminium frame, weld a washer and nut onto the broken bolt. The heat and extra torque should release the stuck bolt

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

Working in a bike shop I‘ve learned to hate this type of stand mount. They tend to work loose so check them regularly. The bolts installed have thread locker on them, which doesn’t seem to work but makes broken bolts a pig to get out.

I’ve had success with three methods of removal:

- slot the stub of the bolt with a dremel and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. This only works if the stub sticks up and you have to be careful to not nick the frame.

- chase the bolt around using a very sharp punch and a small hammer. By tapping the bolt near the edge with the punch at a 45 degree angle it’s often possible to get it to turn a tiny bit. Its slow but often works.

- check the inside of the stay. Bolts that are a bit too long are often installed at the factory. These can protrude slightly on the back of the stay, often far enough that you can get a grip on them with a pair of good vice grips to spin the bugger out.

aluminium expands at a greater rate than steel so a bit of heat from an electric heat gun can help loosen things off when fighting with these things. Don’t be tempted to turn a propane torch to it, that just gets out of hand too quickly. Unbolting and swinging the hydraulic calliper out of the way is important if heat is to be tried.

important: patience!

 

[wiggydiggy]

Because its an aluminium frame, weld a washer and nut onto the broken bolt. The heat and extra torque should release the stuck bolt

Its a lovely idea for someone that (a) has a welding gun and (b) can be trusted not burn my bike in two. I'll save this one for the experts!

Working in a bike shop I‘ve learned to hate this type of stand mount. They tend to work loose so check them regularly. The bolts installed have thread locker on them, which doesn’t seem to work but makes broken bolts a pig to get out.

I’ve had success with three methods of removal:

- slot the stub of the bolt with a dremel and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. This only works if the stub sticks up and you have to be careful to not nick the frame.

- chase the bolt around using a very sharp punch and a small hammer. By tapping the bolt near the edge with the punch at a 45 degree angle it’s often possible to get it to turn a tiny bit. Its slow but often works.

- check the inside of the stay. Bolts that are a bit too long are often installed at the factory. These can protrude slightly on the back of the stay, often far enough that you can get a grip on them with a pair of good vice grips to spin the bugger out.

aluminium expands at a greater rate than steel so a bit of heat from an electric heat gun can help loosen things off when fighting with these things. Don’t be tempted to turn a propane torch to it, that just gets out of hand too quickly. Unbolting and swinging the hydraulic calliper out of the way is important if heat is to be tried.

important: patience!

I'll have to have a look round the back of the stay, I need to do some other fettling on it anyway so before I go down to the LBS I'll take a look. I recently got a small piece of broken key out of a window lock by a similar method so maybe this could work.