Spoke key.
- Thread starter Milzy
- Start date
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Punkawallah
Veteran
I have yet to meet a spoke key that does not do the job.
For utility, I’d pick one with a knurled edge for grip, and put a dab of paint/nail varnish on the slot that fits your spoke for when you drop the tool. Have an elastic band you can wrap around the spoke you are working on before you pick the key up.
EBay has them for not much money:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=bike+spoke+key&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313
The nice boys at GCN have a ‘how to’ video:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3NND07tETc
It’s useful to always work facing the spoke you are working on, helps to save turning the key the wrong way.
If you have a big enough buckle, it may be a job for your FLBS.
Good luck!
For utility, I’d pick one with a knurled edge for grip, and put a dab of paint/nail varnish on the slot that fits your spoke for when you drop the tool. Have an elastic band you can wrap around the spoke you are working on before you pick the key up.
EBay has them for not much money:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=bike+spoke+key&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313
The nice boys at GCN have a ‘how to’ video:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3NND07tETc
It’s useful to always work facing the spoke you are working on, helps to save turning the key the wrong way.
If you have a big enough buckle, it may be a job for your FLBS.
Good luck!
figbat
Former slippery scientist
- Location
- South Oxfordshire, UK
They came with the Hunt wheels that I bought.
OP
OP
Milzy
Legendary Member
SuperGalactian
Well-Known Member
OP
OP
Milzy
Legendary Member
Very niiiiice!!!
I bet you could use an old seat clamp and tighten up to the nipple.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Milzy
Legendary Member
What do you hold the main spoke in place with? Normal pliers?
SuperGalactian
Well-Known Member
You don’t need to hold the spoke. It passes through one of the holes in the hub and is held there by the bend in its end. It doesn’t twist round as you tighten the nipple.
Hope I understood your question correctly?
figbat
Former slippery scientist
- Location
- South Oxfordshire, UK
Well, they can ‘wind up’ during tightening. One technique to monitor this is to put a ‘flag’ of tape on the spoke, tighten it up and then back it off to unwind any torsion that happened. Lubricating the nipple before fitting can help minimise this.
OP
OP
Milzy
Legendary Member
On the GCN videos they hold the middle of the spoke with a device but say pliers will do if you don’t have a spoke holder.
rogerzilla
Squire
Oh, spokes twist. Quite a lot, especially for butted spokes - DT Revolutions will twist 180° quite happily, which is why most pro wheelbuilders charge more to build with them, or refuse altogether. One of the skills of truing a wheel is to feel the twist (use the fingers of the hand that's not holding the spoke key) and make sure it's unwound before moving onto the next spoke. All adjustments require the nipple to be turned too far, then backed off a bit. Tightening is more difficult than loosening in this respect.
If you leave residual twist in a wheel, it will come out when you ride on it, usually with pinging noises - and the wheel will no longer be true.
SuperGalactian
Well-Known Member
OK, you guys are completely correct, of course. The spokes can build up and store tension, and you do have to keep an eye on this and release it as you build/true/repair the wheel. Apologies for leaving that bit out. What I meant was only that the spokes don’t revolve round endlessly as you turn the nipple. I don’t hold the spoke with anything myself, just release tension as I go round the wheel.
presta
Legendary Member
It's far quicker and easier to mark the spokes with a felt tip pen, and has the advantage that you don't have to waste even more time removing them again afterwards.
Punkawallah
Veteran
Am I the only one using chalk to mark rims & spokes?
rogerzilla
Squire
Yes, you complete and total pervert
