Stac Zero Halcyon Support (Lack of)

[Stevers]

Thanks for sharing your experience here. I am a long time Halcyon user with over 12,000km on my unit and it just konked out on me the other day. It seems to be the driveside actuator. @Stevers I have a question for you, did you buy the 100:1 gear unit? And did it come with the ribbon installed? My unit has this for a code which leads me to assume 6volt and 100:1 gear. PQ12-100-6-P.

I have the Stac control panel app on my android but it keeps saying 2005 is the latest firmware. I have tried to update to 2006 via the 4iiii app but it doesn't seem to connect well with the unit and just "spins" while trying to figure out what firmware version it has. I also dabbled in the bluetooth app but couldn't figure it out.

Hi Justin,
Quite correct, and if I remember correctly the 'P' is for potentiometer so the Halcyon can tell exactly how far it is extended.
I'm given to understand that the 4iiii app doesn't work well if at all with the Halcyon. I was told that the 2005 firmware is the same as 2006, so no benefit there. I intend to keep the Stac Zero app on a Motorola G3 not used for much else until that dies.
For stronger riders there is no doubt that the Halcyon is a better bet, which makes the lack of support from 4iiii even more scandalous.
Steve

 

[MrBobb]

PQ12-100-6-P is the correct part#. The one I purchased from actuonix direct has one fatter nipple, preventing the use of the lock washer on one end, but the washer is not mandatory, then the second one I purchased from Robotshop fits exactly as original. Both of my actuators came with ribbon cable already attached, all I had to do is to slip the other cable end into controller.

* For you real tinkerers, I had thought the actuators just needed cleaning, so I opened them and attempted to clean the "track" where the arm travels, but unfortunately that didn't help, me thinks the track is permanently worn.

2 year ago, my Halcyon would not wake up, so I went into this PROCEDURE to reload the firmware 2006. I would leave things alone unless you have a specific reason to mess with it.

As noticed, 4iii removed the very useful Stac control panel out from the Apple app store, it just happened at the same time I switched iPhone, so my un-updated old iPhone still sitting there with the old app, haven't figure out how to transfer just that one app from old to new phone yet.

Keep spinning!

 

[Cander]

Ordered from Robotshop (https://www.robotshop.com/eu/en/actuonix-pq12-p-linear-actuator-20mm-1001-6v-potentiometer.html)

(Actuonix recommended this vendor for shipping to europe when asking). 70€ each and + 13€ shipping

Regarding the dicussed different sized nipple/clevis for new actuator orderd, found this "engineering change notice" that explains the reason https://s3.amazonaws.com/actuonix/Actuonix+ECN+PQ12+Shaft+Revision.pdf (design change made in 2019). Glad though for the reports that they were usable anyway


So to my installation-endeavors: stuck at step 1 dismounting the old actuators, unsure about how to approach the circlipped pins. First time i'm dealing with this kind of lock ring - my understanding is that you're suppose to pry these open and slide them off. Looks easy when googling when they are larger and have gripping holes meant for a specific tools. But these are small, stiff and spins around rather easy trying to get a prying/bending grip.

All this thread is missing now is some visual helping installation instructions for us that wasn't born with a wrench in their hand, please let us tend to fix that, thanks

 

[MrBobb]

Mhhh... u may have to call a mechanically-inclined body to help you. He would know what to do with everyday available tools, where to apply pressure, and how much.

There is a special removal tool for this but heck if I have to figure out the exact type and size to post a link for you. I used a small needle noise pliers, precision (eyes glass) flat screwdriver, jeweler-sized tweezers. You have to be careful, the plastic arm can break off if you apply too much pressure and bye-bye $70, to which I suggest extending the arm all the way out (tell it to Go-To-Rim, then back off one to stop motor) before removal. U have to be careful the tiny lock washer don't fly out on you and never to be found again.

 

[Stevers]

Just for the record, the circlips were prised out with a tiny flathead screwdriver whilst a finger controlled their movement as they exited the slot.
To replace, I position them in the slot and squeeze them home with a pair of small flat nosed pliers. For the 'fat' eye of my actuator I had to use the supplied nut and bolt. My Halcyon is working well at the moment with no sign of the other actuator failing as I expected, or the externally recharged original battery giving out - touch wood!

 

[Cander]

Mhhh... u may have to call a mechanically-inclined body to help you. He would know what to do with everyday available tools, where to apply pressure, and how much.

There is a special removal tool for this but heck if I have to figure out the exact type and size to post a link for you. I used a small needle noise pliers, precision (eyes glass) flat screwdriver, jeweler-sized tweezers. You have to be careful, the plastic arm can break off if you apply too much pressure and bye-bye $70, to which I suggest extending the arm all the way out (tell it to Go-To-Rim, then back off one to stop motor) before removal. U have to be careful the tiny lock washer don't fly out on you and never to be found again.

Just for the record, the circlips were prised out with a tiny flathead screwdriver whilst a finger controlled their movement as they exited the slot.
To replace, I position them in the slot and squeeze them home with a pair of small flat nosed pliers. For the 'fat' eye of my actuator I had to use the supplied nut and bolt. My Halcyon is working well at the moment with no sign of the other actuator failing as I expected, or the externally recharged original battery giving out - touch wood!

thanks. Will give it a shot here soon, life have been swamped so I have (happily too) put some mileage on the old dumb-resistance unit in the meanwhile

 

[Stevers]

Well, it's been a while (and over 2000 miles) since the last problem with the Halcyon. On Sunday I experienced the low resistance (250W at 110+cadence) and sure enough one of the linear actuators had died - I did confirm that it was still plugged in (the connection was secured with a strip of electrical tape). This time it was the left hand side looking forwards. A replacement actuator from my Actuonix sourced stash has fixed it again. I'll update this thread with the likely mileage on this failed actuator if I can work it out! (Edit. Assuming it was the older one of the two that failed, it was two years and 5000+ miles.)

For a while I had been having problems getting the Stac Zero app on my Motorola G3 to connect to the Halcyon, and I was starting to suspect that the Halcyon was the problem, but when trying to use the app to align the magnets after the 'rebuild', I got an error about location services being off on my phone. It seems that on my version of Android, Location Services need to be enabled for Bluetooth to work.

A problem with the Halcyon not charging earlier this year was eventually traced to a faulty magnetic charge cable that had worked fine to start with. Charging via the Halcyon supplied cable works perfectly OK.

[Edit.] After re-assembly with the new actuator, the first ride ended in complete failure to generate any sort of resistance, despite both arms working normally and finding the rim. Over the next couple of days I tried a number of things to fix it including a firmware update (2006 again). Today, I checked the log page on the Stac Zero app, and found that it wasn’t detecting the wheel speed despite the trainer waking up as the magnet passed the sensor. Moving the sensor closer to the magnet fixed my problem, and I can only conclude that the sensor can be close enough to switch the Halcyon on at slow speeds, but not close enough for wheel speed detection to work at higher speeds.

 

[Cander]

So I just came around first after summer with my attempt. Found and used a circlip plier to push the circlips out (not as this plier model/size was intented for these smaller circlips I think, but was a suitable tool anyway)

Note: take MrBobb's advice seriously about being careful not having these circlips shoot away at dismount. They're incredible small and light. I was working with the unit down inside a moving box as precaution, nevertheless I managed to lose 2 out of 6 flying off somewhere in the room never to be found later. Luckily though only 2 was needed for the remount with the new version of the actuator with fat nipple and screw/nut-mount

I found the right side hard to when the magnets being in the most open position (= and actuator arm all the way in). Tight space for the nut, and not possible to access the screw with a screwdriver. But working patiently with 2 pliers I eventually managed to get them in somewhat, and to be after-tighten when the unit was live and magnets locked into the rim posititon with app

No issues after install and a couple of test rides, happy for attempting the repair and will likley do it atleast once more in the future if nothing else breaks



Regarding the removed STAC Control Panel app. Talked to 4iiii-support and was let know that a "4iiii Control Panel app" existed, downloadable here: http://staczero.com/4iiii-control-panel.apk

This one is different than the 4iiii Device Configuration-app that is on the Play/App-stores (which is pretty useless for the Halcyon)

It has the same look and feel as the STAC Control Panel app, but missing some critical functions unfortunately like checking/updating firmware, the "tweak" functions for e.g setting Sim-mode watt vs speed. And probably more

I have tried reaching out to an old acquaintance from the original Stac Zero team to see if he could dig it out for us in this "tiny community", but no luck yet. Will let you know if I do later

Otherwise there is something called APK extractor-apps on Android for copying apps, I have understood. Maybe I could ask you Stevers if you could make an attempt on that? If not as a backup for yourself anway, if your Motorla would break prematurely

 

[Stevers]

Thank you Cander for your detailed post on changing a linear actuator and for research into the Stac/4iiii Control App. The APK extractor app looks like a really good option. I used work in IT using Windows and Unix. However even in Android a set of instructions is bound to exist that I can try to follow.

Anyway I was starting a ride on the Halcyon two nights ago, and in pulling away from the start had that familiar feeling of spinning out at 210W and immediately knew that another linear actuator had failed, this time the one that was overdue on the drive side. I knew that this one was still plugged in as it had retained a tiny part of its normal movement. The usual faff ensued the following morning to change it for one in my now depleted stock of spares. Once refitted and the magnets re-aligned, it worked OK again.

By my reckoning each actuator is lasting for around 5,000 miles on average. With two spares left, I should get another three years out of my Halcyon at current usage.

 

[Cander]

Nice to hear you're still up and running Stevers 👍My first repair is still running here now after 1 year of 3-5h weekly usage.

Had no luck with obtaining the STAC Control Panel app myself. But have been fine enough with the settings that were on the unit from earlier (although could use some tiny higher limit on the "max resistance" to avoid magnet-rim scraping on high gradients, and slightly higher virutal speed for periods when form is one fire 🦵🔥)

 

[Cander]

Today the right actuator failed. ☹️ Considering afterall not doing another repair (much due to lack of access to the app). Might rock my spare dumb-resistance unit instead a season or two more, and put the money instead towards a trainer upgrade. Probably a luxurious stationary kind - I ride enough indoors to justify the investment 🙂

Godspeed Stevers, probably the last man standing! 💪 May your actuator-stock last the decade out 😁

 

[Stevers]

Disappointingly it was the 'new' drive side actuator that failed this time, so less than 1200 miles. Replaced from my stock of spares leaving only one left now. At this rate I might not be the last one standing!

 

[Cander]

@Stevers A thought, got in a situation of a trainer app requiring a paired smart trainer for certain rides/events, and was thinking for the first time if it's actually a viable option to continue use an actuator-dead Halcyon-unit as a "smart-dumb trainer". Disconnecting the actuator cables and just manually pushing the magnet arrays to a appropriate distance from wheel for one's wattage & gearing. Pushing the actuators manaully I know isn't healthy, but assuming one obviously doesn't care at this point anyway

Might give it ago, but wondered if I'm forgetting anything. My understanding is that the power reading isn't affected by the actuators at all, but perhaps the calibration process when the magnet array touches the wheel might cause the firmware to get in an unexpected state when it can't do that, or something. Atleast got a second crank power meter to verify the power data against

 

[Stevers]

Hi Cander, Mine have failed in a position where I was getting 250W at 90 Cadence and you could certainly ride a virtual velo track that way, and not so very different from ERG riding. I think your idea is sound although I would definitely miss the sprinting and hill efforts, but I absolutely wouldn't miss spinning out on downhills!

 

[Cander]

Tried it out on 2 rides, worked well. Power reading seem just normal. Was fairly easy to fine-adjust the magnets to desired position too, just like you do on the Stac Zero Classic.

Thought if anyone one else could benefit from this hack with a depleted Halcyon - atleast it is easily converted to a dumb trainer while you're saving up/shopping for something new👍