Steel framed MTBs

[MichaelM]

I've got a Genesis IO, which is a singlespeed version of the altitude. They are nice frames for the money, maybe lacking in the "image" of say Cotic.

You could ring Sandy Wallace cycles to see if they've got a demo - I know there's an Altitude in the shop window.

Also, On-One are very helpfull, and the inbreds are bloody good frames for not a lot of money. Give the a call/e-mail, they'll give you all the advice you want about size/stem etc etc

 

[Mr Pig]

I phoned Sandy Wallace but they seem to be closed today. I looked at the On-One site but they're too expensive and most of their frames are out of stock. Plus I wouldn't be able to try the bike first, bit of a downer if you built a bike up yourself and found you didn't like it! ;0)

Image don't bother me at all. I want a bike to ride, not pose on ;0)

 

[Jonathan M]

Do Cove still have a steel hardtailin their line up?

A few years ago I looked back to back at the Merlin Rock Lobster & a Cove Handjob at Leisure Lakes, and in terms of frame only price I'm afraid to say that while there was only £30 or so in it, the Merlin was a lot rougher around the welds, and also sizing was a bit odd - one to try before you buy for certain.

I ended up buying the Cove frame, becuase it was on a sale weekend at LL, but I'm afraid to say it hasn't had the use it should have.Might change that this summer,or else it'll probably appear on the bay!

 

[barq]

I built up a steel hardtail from an On One frame and parts I had lying around. Pretty nice, I'd happily buy from them again.

Another alternative: I'd never normally recommend Halfords, but they do stock the Voodoo Wanga. Not sure what their test ride policy is but it might be worth a thought. If I recall correctly Voodoo's designer used to work for Kona and designed some of their classic steel hardtails.

 

[Mr Pig]

The Voodoo is £800 which is more than I've got to spend. Although knowing Halfords you'll get it for £2:50 in the sale!

One of the things I like about the Altitude range is that all three steel frames have exactly the same geometry. So you can buy the cheapest one then upgrate to the better frame later on. The top frame costs £350 on its own.

I'm afraid to say 'the cove' hasn't had the use it should have.

Well you could always sell it to me? ;0)

 

[MichaelM]

One of the things I like about the Altitude range is that all three steel frames have exactly the same geometry. So you can buy the cheapest one then upgrate to the better frame later on. The top frame costs £350 on its own.

What a barking idea!

Other than cost/budget, why would you buy the cheapest one - with associated cheapest wheels, forks, components - with the intention of upgrading the frame at a later date?

My IO is the 520 frame - I wouldn't bother upgrading it to the 853 now that I've got it. The 520 frames are perfectly decent frames.

 

[Mr Pig]

The Altitude 00 is also the 520 frame, isn't the 853 frame a lot lighter? The full bike is a LOT lighter, although I know the components will have a lot to do with that.

I can't aford to buy the better frame then buy the bits needed to go with it. Cost/Budget is the only reason some of us need! ;0)

As the frames have the same geometry you could change the frame, as well as other components, without altering the fit of the bike. Isn't it just like upgrading any other part of a bike?

 

[Flying_Monkey]

As the frames have the same geometry you could change the frame, as well as other components, without altering the fit of the bike. Isn't it just like upgrading any other part of a bike?

It isn't really - that is rebuilding the entire bike. You should get the best frame you can afford and keep it. And with a steel frame, you keep it until it rusts away. It isn't a disposable item...

 

[Mr Pig]

It isn't really - that is rebuilding the entire bike.

So? You're just swapping the bits over, not a big deal.

I agree about buying the best frame you can afford but it doesn't make sense to stick with that frame forever if it's not that great a frame. I have a Hardrock right now, which was a good buy at the time, but I wouldn't see the point in fitting top components to the Hardrock frame. I think you'd be better with lesser components on a better frame. Don't you agree?

 

[Flying_Monkey]

I think you'd be better with lesser components on a better frame. Don't you agree?

Yeah, but that was my point, not yours!

 

[Mr Pig]

But I can't afford to put components on a better frame, which I thought I had explained? If I buy a £350 frame I can't buy the rest of the bits for £250. Could you?

 

[Jonathan M]

If you've only got £600 then you'll struggle to buy a decent frame and equip it.

The theory of buy the best frame possible and put cheaper bits on it makes a bit more sense than buy a cheap frame, put cheap bits on it, then upgrade the frame later - you won't get much back for a second hand frame, plus by the time you are going to replace the frame then various parts will also need replacing - headset, BB, chain, maybe cassette & chainset even.

Have you thought about new frame, components off the Hardrock to get you mobile, then replace bits as you can?

 

[MichaelM]

Jonathathan beat me to it....

Buy an Inbred frame, fit a headset, and buy any parts that don't fit from the Hardrock (maybe seatpost & front mech).

Count change from the price of a Genesis 00.

Upgrade wheels/forks.

Sorted :-)

Oh, and there are lots of Inbred frames in stock - not sliding dropout is what you want.

 

[Mr Pig]

I know you're trying to help, and it is a good idea, but I have thought about this.

My Hardrock already needs new parts, which is one of the reasons why I'm going to buy a new bike. The chain, gears and dérailleurs are very worn. They still work ok but with the use I give them I'd have to replace them relatively soon. The wheel rims are also pretty worn (V brakes) as are the calliper pivots.

Were I to fit these parts to a new frame I'd have to replace them before long. Plus I don't want to buy a frame with 'V' brake lugs and be left with them when I fitted disks later. To avoid that I'd have to buy both disk brakes and disk-compatible wheels from the off. Those two items alone would take the cost up to nearly £600.

While it could be done...just, it would result in a heavily compromised 'new' bike and importantly a non-functional Hardrock. If I buy a whole brand new bike the Hardrock gets to live on, which is ideal as my eldest son is in need of a bigger bike. Giving it to him saves the cost of buying him a new one, and as he uses his bike so little the worn transmition will probably do him for ages.

I'm not taking chances on it though. I'm replacing the full braking system with new, getting the fork checked and serviced and checking the frame for cracks. The whole bike will be stripped bare and checked out, but it'll still cost a lot less than a new bike.

He's quite happy. He's tried the bike and can't believe how nippy it is. I'm quite looking forward to tidying the bike up for him, it'll be getting more attention than it got when I was using it ;0)

 

[MichaelM]

In which case buy a Genesis 00.

The frame is good - once you've got it you won't really want to upgrade (at least until you have a large surplus of cash/son leaves home). Deore kit is perfectly good (I use XT due to being a snob - not because I can tell the difference!), One of my bikes has aftermarket deore brakes - they're better than twice the price Hope Minis. The new RockShox forks I believe are pretty much the same internally through the range - Toras may not have external floodgate - but they have the same internals higher range forks.

Buy it, rag it, upgrade things as they wear.

If the hardrock needs new rims/chain etc take a look at Merlin cycles and consider transferring the wheels/drivetrain from the Genesis to the Hardrock. You can pick up HTII chainsets/wheels relatively cheap. (also check out Chain Reaction).

Now go and buy the Genesis - you know you want to.