Stopping water getting into winter boots?

[Ajax Bay]

Why o why can you not get lightweight trail boots with a water resistant but non suportive built in gaiter.

We're talking cycling footwear here. The weak point is either the top of the unprotected boot (water gets in) or, if protected, eg by a "non suportive (sic) built in gaiter" at the top of that. If the material used needs to be cinched tight to achieve that seal, it will pretty certainly start rubbing your calf. So the material needs to be elastic, and some have suggested above some options. Most such material is too weak to secure permanently to the top of the boot ('built in'). And you have to get the boot on.
The walking solution is sock, boot, trouser, gaiter, overtrouser. But difficult to get waterproof overtrousers with a close fit, which is definitely preferable for cycling. And you bend your leg far more cycling, which means there's a significant pull on the overtrouser at the '9 o'clock point' (knee highest): worth avoiding.

 

[BorderReiver]

Spats? I believe Carradice still make them but I'm not sure anybody else does.

 

[mjr]

I suspect from this statement that you haven't ridden for several hours in the pouring rain. This is a real problem and not easily solved.

A proper old-style rain cape should keep you dry (give or take nobber motorists sluicing standing water under it either deliberately or stupidly), but it'll slow you down for various reasons. My smaller waterproofs cease to keep out pouring rain after an hour or two.

 

[SavageHoutkop]

I'm not a long distance or club cyclist, I'm a goes-to-work/shops/etc type, but my solution is waterproof boots (normal boots) that go up to mid-calf and then overtrousers over those down to ankle (Paramo). May help that I'm female and the mid-calf boot look is more accepted

 

[mjr]

May help that I'm female and the mid-calf boot look is more accepted

Men can wear mid-calf boots too, but we have to keep them hidden under our regular trousers. I've some nice army-pattern boots with gutters that are pretty watertight but I fear for their longevity if flexed as much as cycling requires, so I only wear them for cycling when it's really torrential, I'd be at my destination for a while and I couldn't change into dry socks on arrival.

 

[Ian H]

The best long-ride solution is holes in the soles.

 

[Twizit]

The best long-ride solution is holes in the soles.

which somewhat defeats the purpose of nice toasty warm winter boots, no???

 

[S-Express]

which somewhat defeats the purpose of nice toasty warm winter boots, no???

Most cycling winter boots have holes in the soles by default anyway.

 

[Ian H]

which somewhat defeats the purpose of nice toasty warm winter boots, no???

Small holes.

 

[mynydd]

No holes in my soles. If there were they might have dried out quicker
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone

 

[I like Skol]

Most cycling winter boots have holes in the soles by default anyway.

The Shimano gortex ones have a full gortex fitted sock/liner which makes the whole shoe waterproof. In theory it shouldn't matter how wet the shoe gets, the foot inside will remain dry. The flaw is the big gaping hole wear the foot fits. The holes in the sole for fixing cleats are outside the gortex so don't matter.

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

'Shimano gortex ones.

They are great and warm. However, as I discovered on Sunday in a downpour, rain can easily trickle in from the ankle area. Leaving them full of freezing water... which can't get out, as they are so waterproof!!!! They are still drying out in the radiator, three days later....

I thought that Goretex let the foot (in this case) breath
Water can get in, but evaporates out, through a 'one way membrane'
Presumably it's the amount of water, that's causing the problems??

Are mudguards used, & a big mud-flap?
I have them on all-year round, & have no issues with just normal shoes & neoprene overshoes
The only area that gets a damp-patch (if it's just wet roads, & not raining) is on the shin, when water trails back from the stay mounts, on the guards

 

[boydj]

................................................... But difficult to get waterproof overtrousers with a close fit, which is definitely preferable for cycling. And you bend your leg far more cycling, which means there's a significant pull on the overtrouser at the '9 o'clock point' (knee highest): worth avoiding.

You can get cycling-specific overtrousers, with adjustable cuffs and flex points at the knees. Mine are made by Altura - not too expensive and a boon when commuting in heavy rain.

 

[Randomnerd]

Have a look at the Pearl Izumi Elite Amfib Bib Tights, waterproof and with design that allows you to roll the tights over boots whilst still having close-fitting stirrup due to 2-piece construction near the bottom of the tights.

I have a pair of these and they are a super bit of kit. The ankle cuff would make a good seal over your boot top, or a shoe with overshoe: or at least it does for me

 

[screenman]

I'm not a long distance or club cyclist, I'm a goes-to-work/shops/etc type, but my solution is waterproof boots (normal boots) that go up to mid-calf and then overtrousers over those down to ankle (Paramo). May help that I'm female and the mid-calf boot look is more accepted

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