Suntor casette removal

[astrocan]

How do I get this off?
There are three separate rings, each with a pair of notches for a removal tool.
The inner most ring has the biggest and most obvious notches but has resisted significant effort.
The middle ring has 'unscrew' and an anti-clockwise arrow on it and there is another outer ring. The notches on the middle and outer rings are small and chamfered so I would like to be sure I am doing the right thing before attempting to remove them or trying to track down the correct tool to do it.
As well as Suntor it also has 'Maeda Industries Ltd' stamped into it.
Any advice appreciated

 

[jagman.2003]

I could be wrong, but if my memory serves me correctly this looks like a cassette with built in freewheel.
The tool to remove locates with two lugs in the larger slots as you've already mentioned.

These cassettes are still available so it should be easy enough finding the correct tool for the job.

 

[Brommyboy]

The correct tool will fit in the right place, which is the anticlockwise undo part. You need a chain whip to lock the sprockets otherwise they just free wheel! It is also possible to put a very log screwdriver through the wheel so that it locks a sprocket tooth through the crossed spokes on both sides of the wheel. if you do not have a chain whip. I probably still have my original freewheel tool around somewhere.
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/tools-maintenance/tools/xlc-suntour-2-notch-freewheel-socket
http://www.amazon.co.uk/chain-whip/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:chain whip

 

[raleighnut]

No need for a chain whip as that's a screw on sprocket, tool goes into a vice and the wheel gives enough leverage. Best idea is to take the wheel into a decent bike shop and buy the new one then ask them to fit it, they don't normally charge for this as it only takes a couple of minutes.

 

[astrocan]

I want to take it off to service the bearings. The bike has been little used and I would like some fresh grease in there.
Agree about no need for a chain whip and using a tool in the vice, just wanted confirmation that I was attempting to undo the correct ring.
Going to get a better tool and apply sufficient pressure to the inner ring with confidence.

 

[mickle]

Aargh! It's a Suntour 'two pin' freewheel. later ones had four pins coz they had a tendency to break tools.
You'll need the appropriate tool and a vice.
Remove wheelnut.
Fit tool over axle and engage the pins with the slots in the freewheel body or 'block'.
Refit wheelnut hand tight
Flip the wheel and clamp the tool in the vice good and tight
Grasp the rim at opposite sides, take a deep breath and at the bottom of the exhale twist the wheel anti-clockwise with all your might. Get another bod to help if necessary
You're just looking to loosen it at this stage - the wheelnut which we used to prevent the tool from slipping must now be removed before undoing the freewheel all the way.
Grease the threads before reinstalling and be careful to avoid Cross-threading.

 

[TheDoctor]

Do you need to take it off to grease the wheel bearings? I'd be surprised...
Or are you planning on stripping and greasing the freewheel?

 

[Tony Raynor]

Ok here's my general experience having taken 2 very similar ones apart.

If your just going to do the bearings you don't need to use the inner notches but make sure you catch all the bearings that will fly all over. Also there will be either 2 or 3 brass pawls that can be very difficult to get back in and get the cogs and bearings together all at once.

If you look at that middle ring it says unscrew. This gives access to the top set of bearings. There will also probably be some O rings as well.

Once this is off and you have removed the bearings (don't tip it upside down to empty bearings or you'll cry, believe me).

Now for the 100 bearing pickup.
The whole set of cogs can now be lifted and the bottom bearings will go everywhere. The best way is to hold the cogs onto the hub and turn upside down then lift the wheel and hub off the cogs (experience is a wonderful thing).
Here is where you will also have the brass pawls.

Now you can clean and regreased where the bottom bearings go. Replace bearings if you need or clean and start putting into the grease on the inside of the cogs. They should stay there. The hardest part is trying to keep the pawls in place whilst re inserting the hub. My experience was to use some thread so that I could pull it out once the hub and pawls were in place.

Hold cogs onto hub and turn over.

Grease top ridge and place bearings the O rings then screw lock ring back on.

If all goes well you should have a nice quite freewheel.

One last thing to mention is to regreased the axel bearings before you start to rebuild the freewheel.

Here's a link to the first one I did.

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/help-ive-dropped-by-bearings.160735/#post-3187965

 

[mickle]

The OP isn't trying to service the bearings in the block - he wants to take the block off to service the axle bearings.

And anyway - lubing a freewheel is very much more easily done by seeping machine oil in via the freewheel bearing seals. Taking it apart is a great way of shortening it's life through component loss or bearing maladjustment.

 

[Tony Raynor]

Sorry misunderstood which bearings he wanted to regrease.

If you can't get the freewheel off you can remove the lock nut and cone from the non freewheel side and remove the the axel.

As you start to pull it through grease the bearings on the non freewheel side so they don't fall out then completely remove the axel and grease the freewheel side bearings (your finger should fit to grease these)

Then carefully insert axel and tighten up cone and lock nut.

 

[raleighnut]

The OP isn't trying to service the bearings in the block - he wants to take the block off to service the axle bearings.

And anyway - lubing a freewheel is very much more easily done by seeping machine oil in via the freewheel bearing seals. Taking it apart is a great way of shortening it's life through component loss or bearing maladjustment.

I do that using Hypoid 90 after a good wash down and low pressure hosing but only in the summer (its like treacle in winter) and have turned quite clicky freewheels into silent ones.

 

[astrocan]

Just to clear up any confusion. Mckle was correct, I wanted to remove the block to get good access to the axle bearings which has now been achieved by using a two prong tool on the innermost slots. While I had the block off I ran some good quality oil into both sides of the mechanism which got it spinning much smoother but could reasonably been achieved while still screwed to the hub.
Tony has offered some helpful tips on how to dismantle the freewheel mechanism but I am happy that this is not necessary.
Thanks for the advice chaps.

 

[byegad]

I had one of these on an old bike. There was no way the brute would come off. As I had the correct tools and had in the dim and distant past frequently had the thing off, I assumed that 20 years of neglect in the attic had frozen the thing solid. In the end I chucked it.

 

[raleighnut]

I had one of these on an old bike. There was no way the brute would come off. As I had the correct tools and had in the dim and distant past frequently had the thing off, I assumed that 20 years of neglect in the attic had frozen the thing solid. In the end I chucked it.

Always refit with Copaslip.

 

[byegad]

Always refit with Copaslip.

I did, but 20 years of sub Arctic to Tropical temperatures in the loft was enough to effectively weld it together!