The Beginners Guide to Torque Wrenches
- Thread starter kingrollo
- Start date
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Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
As above they are pretty straight forward to use. I have a similar one, nothing mega expensive - think it was about £25-£30.
The only other thing to consider is the torque ranges on specific tools can differ, e.g. a smaller one like mine may be selectable for torque range from 3 - 16 nM so if you have a requirement for regularly adjusting larger bolts you will need one with a range that can handle it. It may well be you need a second one for 20 - 40 nM for example, if you're doing chainring bolts and lockrings and stuff like that.
The only other thing to consider is the torque ranges on specific tools can differ, e.g. a smaller one like mine may be selectable for torque range from 3 - 16 nM so if you have a requirement for regularly adjusting larger bolts you will need one with a range that can handle it. It may well be you need a second one for 20 - 40 nM for example, if you're doing chainring bolts and lockrings and stuff like that.
Profpointy
Legendary Member
I must admit I've never bothered for a bike, though would, and have, used one for a car engine rebuild. That said, I reckon I do have reasonable mechanical sympathy so am confident I'm not going to snap off the typical fasteners on a bike. Big caveat is I've never owned a carbon fibre bike where I gather these things are a lot more critical and the word is that it's good idea to get a torque wrench.
If you're new to these things, make sure you check the range of torque before buying. You need a very different tool for car cylinder head screws or suspension parts than you would for an m4 screw on a bike. The former would resemble a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle but the bike sized tool would look like a screwdriver.
If you're new to these things, make sure you check the range of torque before buying. You need a very different tool for car cylinder head screws or suspension parts than you would for an m4 screw on a bike. The former would resemble a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle but the bike sized tool would look like a screwdriver.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
There are lots of types. The bigger ones tend to be the "click" type described above. Smaller ones may just have a rotary scale which you watch while tightening, until the line is at the desired torque. There are also long "beam" types and small one pre-set for one torque, e.g. 5Nm.
Torque is a really poor analogue for clamping force or bolt tension. A used, cleaned, lubricated thread will give a far higher clamping force for a given torque than a new or dirty, dry, thread. Bike manufacturers rarely specify thread conditions, so I assume clean and lubricated. Automotive applications usually specify dry threads.
Torque is a really poor analogue for clamping force or bolt tension. A used, cleaned, lubricated thread will give a far higher clamping force for a given torque than a new or dirty, dry, thread. Bike manufacturers rarely specify thread conditions, so I assume clean and lubricated. Automotive applications usually specify dry threads.
numbnuts
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gone over the hill and far away
I have never felt the need for one in a cycle application, motor vehicles well yes if rebuilding an engine/gearboxes, having worked in a mechanical environment all my life you “get the feel” on how tight to take it, be it on steel or alloys.
harlechjoe
Guest
I love my Lezyne Tourque drive that replaced the old chunky multi-tool I used to cart around. There isn't a fixing on my bicycle that the Tourque can't tackle and bearing in mind hpw easy it is to over-tighten things, its a must-have for ham-
fisted people like me
fisted people like me
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
I have a couple of Sealey torque wrenches that cover the range 5-112 Nm, I think. They cost about £30 each a few years ago and came with calibration certificates. I've been told that it's important to set the torque as close as you can to zero when you leave them stored.
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tribanjules
Guru
- Location
- Birmingham
I got the £17 one too and it’s great !
I cringe at Halfords seeing “technician “ using Allen key and way way too much grunt on a pour stem ( 5Nm is small !!)
OP
OP
kingrollo
Guru
Ok - thanks folks - I need it to tighten a seat post. But not the typical collar type. It's like a little wedge that sits in front of the seat post. But the actual bolt you turn is recessed ....
An Allen keys gets in fine - but a multi tool - not great - would these sets you are recommending be able to get into a recessed area ?
An Allen keys gets in fine - but a multi tool - not great - would these sets you are recommending be able to get into a recessed area ?
harlechjoe
Guest
yes - indeed they will !
Peter Salt
Bittersweet
- Location
- Yorkshire, UK
If you get a set, just make sure it comes with a calibration certificate.
If you're tightening the seat post - make sure to use some carbon paste - that way you can get away with tightening it on the lower end of the range and will prevent seizing.
If you're tightening the seat post - make sure to use some carbon paste - that way you can get away with tightening it on the lower end of the range and will prevent seizing.
FrothNinja
Veteran
The mechanics at a few of our local bike shops recommended this one - not the cheapest but good for small stuff & the one they all use at home (as opposed to the very expensive ones they use at their places of work). I started using one because the cost of the damage that could result from over torqueing is eye watering.
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XHXE1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XHXE1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
