The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Salento

With no stalls on the Plaza actually serving coffee I retired to an real café for one, then another, coffee and wrote up my notes. It's a great exercise to do while everything is still fresh and before I move on to the next phase of finding a place to stay.
As for finding a place to stay I was very relaxed. There is no shortage of places to stay, although most are either hostels or expensive.

The approach into Salento

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A review of one place in particular on Booking put it to the top of my list and I eventually set off to find it. A wonderful old building, basic facilities but wonderfully charming hosts. Because I'd shown up with no reservation I got a price less than shown on Booking. When I got my change I split it with my host so we both benefit. Meanwhile his wife had made me coffee (Yes! More coffee! Trust me, if you were here you'd understand!) and then sat me down to run through the highlights of the town with a little map. Simple, effective but most importantly, very, very genuine.
A space was cleared for me to do some laundry (by hand) with soap supplied and I had the use of the washing line to dry everything.
Fabulous, fabulous hospitality.

Wandering dogs are very common, most too well fed and in good nick to be strays. People, it seems, are very relaxed about letting their dogs wander. This fella made friends over my coffee

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I showered, did my laundry and set out to explore. My first stop was a Mirador, a viewing point high on a hill, then a walk to another one. There were a surprising number of (Colombian) tourists knocking around. Then down to the centre for a wander.

These towns can be steep! And greenery and mountains are never too far away

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It's another steep town and depending on the side of the Plaza the countryside can be very close. And impressive. I took a stroll through the Plaza to see how the Christmas decorations are going. The jeeps, so popular for public transport, seem to feature prominently as do palm trees - fake ones amidst all the real ones. I was very amused.

Not the normal views I associate with a town!

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One of the things I really, really like about the Plazas around and about here are the "push cars" as I call them. I thought México and its battery powered little cars was the height of simple, child centred fun but Colombia is schooling me. This probably comes across as insufferably patronising but I love the simplicity of kids being pushed around the Plaza in a toy car.
The detail is often excellent, the cars often show their age but they represent something of the "old world" that isn't just hanging on but seems to be thriving. Elsewhere on the Plaza is a teeny, tiny carousel that can carry maybe four or six very small kids. That says the same thing.

From one of the two miradors (viewing points) above the town

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There are a lot of "touristy" shops and I did pass one hostel with a bar blasting out "young people" music (Jeez! I'm really old, aren't I?) but that was an exception.

The Plaza, the church and lots of jeeps!

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With a rumbling belly and a few recommendations from my hostess I went looking for food. Beside one of her recommendations was a much less formal place and as I perused the menu outside the man came out to point out what didn't have meat. Apparently being mistaken for a German yesterday wasn't insulting enough, today I was being mistaken for a vegetarian!
I went in anyway because I wanted to try something I haven't seen before: Fried banana with toppings.
When it came I let out a gasp - it was huge! Basically, very thin banana topped like a pizza served with guacamole and a sweet, fruity salsa. It was feckin' delicious!

The Municipal Offices - not the brightest building on the block!

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Unfortunately, as I ate the heavens opened, thunder crashed, lighting crackled and the steep street outside became a river. The rain here is something else! I waited as long as I could but eventually they were closing then off for a hot chocolate.

It's a tough old life!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 791, Friday, November 12, 2021, Salento to Salento, 26 km Total KM 13821
Min meters 2036, Max Meters 2962
Total Climb 890 Total Descent 918
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 18

Changing Plans; Ah, to be a relaxed bike tourist!

Part 1
Early, early morning Salento

I was awake much earlier than has been normal of late but the sound of rain kept me in my bed. It's a great feeling to wake up contented and totally at ease, all the more so in a country on the other side of the world. I am really feeling at peace here, very comfortable, very safe. Most mornings I wouldn't make a bet as to where I'd be laying my head that night because I'd probably lose. It feels very liberating, very free.

An urge to pee finally got me up and I threw on some clothes and ventured out. The rain seemed to have abated so I decided I'd wander up to the Mirador above the town and enjoy some solitude. Unfortunately, by the time I wandered downstairs (slow with my ankle) the rain had started up again. I enjoyed a magnificent rainbow over urban streets and toddled away and down and up towards the Plaza.
Passing an almost hidden bakery I stopped in to pick up a coffee.

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No matter where I go here the Plaza is the centre of all things. If anyone is out and about they are either at the Plaza or on their way to or from it. People going to work or school come here for a lift or a Jeep. The only open stores will be on the Plaza or nearby. For someone as directionally challenged as me Plazas make life simple. In México, by contrast, all the early morning life was on the first junction outside the centre.

Seeing me wandering coffee cup in hand I was approached by a Spanish speaking tourist enquiring where he too could get a cup of coffee. Imagine! Me, of all people, giving directions!

Mountains are never too dar away which means that mornings can be mysterious and magical

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I'm a terrible correspondent. What once were so exciting, so strange, so unusual are now so common I've omitted to mention them - Volcanoes!
Way back in Honda I was under the shadow of a giant Volcano and there's another one down the road from here. There's also a canyon that's quite famous for hiking containing Colombia's National Tree - the Wax Palm. It's quite a popular hiking area and judging by all the weather, landslide and flash flood alerts on Google (I've never seen them before so they're either new or the world is going mad!) it's a pretty muddy hike at the moment.
Yesterday, sitting enjoying my coffee I spied a young couple with mud up to their thighs on a quest to buy some new clothes!

All that is by way of introduction to the greatest number of tourists I've seen in a while groggily dragging themselves to the Plaza from various hostels in a wide range of prepared states.
Wellies (Wellington boots, Rubber boots) are popular amongst the better prepared. One dainty thing had white trainers and anklesocks. Some were decked out with rucksacks front and back, with walking poles to keep them upright, others just a little daypack. Some had hiking boots well used and worn comfortably, others were pristine and worn in such a way as to suggest there was a lot of breaking in to do! The females preferred leggings while a few of the guys had opted for shorts. I don't know what it is about shorts and the male figure but they did little to enhance the pale or spindly (and usually both!) legs they partially covered.
One or two were clearly solo, there were some couples, or at least people buddying up and there was one long line of a group trotting behind a leader like school children.
There were a lot of Spanish speaking backpackers but I heard English and quite a bit of German and even French.

There's a little ticket office for the Jeeps and tourists outnumbered the locals by about 5 to 1. Tickets bought, queues formed at the back of the relevant jeep and people struggled in cramming themselves and their packs inside until full and then it's standing room only at the back.

Rush hour!

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The running board on the back is used nervously. Lots of anxious faces and deathgrips as they try to get comfortable with this method of transport. One guy pointedly refused to stand instead sitting half in half out. That was ok until the Jeep turned on the Plaza and a load of rainwater trapped in the rolled up canvas back "window" poured down on his head. I had a bird's eye view as his whole body spasmed with the shock but he tried to hide it. Standing, the water would have landed on his feet.

It seemed as if all the hikers were whisked away in the first wave of departures and the Plaza returned to a more sedate pace.

Dogs wander freely and are friendly and curious. Even the "guard dogs" in the parking lots are quiet and prone to investigating curiously the gringo wandering around. They've clocked off after their night's work and just want a bit of social contact.

A coffee stall is doing a brisk business with locals picking up a coffee on their way to somewhere else or just hanging around to chat, sipping from plastic cups. Very sociable.

The views are special. On one side of the town I had a beautiful, bright rainbow, very vivid and very alive. The opposite side is a melange of green, rolling hills with darker siblings rising behind them, clouds hanging between them and mist floating all around. When everything is just right the sun blasts down on a distant mountainside creating a little piece of gleaming paradise amongst the damp and the gloom.
Try to photograph it and the perfectionist will be disappointed. Buildings and especially cables and wires will get in the way. Put the camera away and just soak it all up. Or get a drone - and go to hell!

Passing the time writing this up more hikers have started to roll into the Plaza.
I'm going to join the hikers up in the Cocora valley later. I'll be making my own way on the bike and have no intention of going for a hike!

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Chatting to Maria, the German girl, the other day she commented that travelling by bike must be very slow. It is, was my reply, (especially so with me!) but I told her that I get to stop wherever I want and follow, within reason, my own schedule. A good German, she thought about that and decided that yes, that was definitely an advantage. She hadn't a hope of convincing a bus driver to stop randomly on the side of the road.

The Adventure

Well, I didn't make it anywhere near the Corcora valley today! Instead, I took a figary and headed off up towards the volcano
There was a road that Osmand showed that Google didn't that intrigued me and on asking my hostess she went off and dug out a map to show me that it's a popular hiking route and would be doable on a bike - a bit rough though! Whether I made it to the top (over 3200 meters) didn't really matter - it was going to be a fun journey

Hmmmm...... This could be fun!

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I deliberated over another coffee and decided to go for it. Corcora will be there tomorrow and it's not that far. I can leave my gear, bike up have a look, return, pick up my gear and be in Armenia by lunchtime
Oh! I decided to stay an extra day!

Mudslide!

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I threw on some clothes, emptied my barbag then repacked it with essentials and dropped down to the Plaza for a couple of empanad.

Waterfall

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The road wasted no time losing its surface and rising out of the town. This is going to be fun! A sign announced "The Camino Real". Real in Spanish can be "Royal" or "Real". This was a real road

I came upon an older lady on an MTB heading down who told me the road was blocked with no way past. She didn't tell me how far up the blockage was (two other MTBers who passed me a little earlier said nothing) and I decided to keep on going. She was a little old lady I told myself, I'm a tough macho man
That was a mistake! But only because "Macho Man" (the Village People?) became my earworm song of the day! Cruel!

Bouncy!

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I did indeed hit a roadblock with a motorbike and a pickup with a rack of MTBs waiting. A landslide covered the road. The guy in the pickup told me I could get get over on the right hand side so I gave it a go, manhandling the very light Roccado over the mud and the rocks and bits of trees. A young fella climbed over at the same time and offered to help which I thought was very kind if unnecessary.

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Heading off up again I did wonder if this would be the only landslide. It didn't take long to confirm that it wasn't and that landslides weren't the biggest problem - in a couple of places some of the road had fallen away! Today, apparently, was the day of adventure!

Landslide and disappearing road!

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To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 791, Friday, November 12, 2021, Salento to Salento, 26 km Total KM 13821
Min meters 2036, Max Meters 2962
Total Climb 890 Total Descent 918
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 18

Changing Plans; Ah, to be a relaxed bike tourist!

Part Two

As I headed upwards the cloudy sky seemed to darken and mist started hiding the views until at one bend instead of a wide valley view I had pure white mist.
I did think about turning around at that point. There were dangers on the road, the road itself being the main one and with the roadblock behind me there was no traffic in the event I got into trouble. Turning back would be the sensible thing to do, I could head to Corcora on a proper road. Besides, I'd have to turn back at some stage. Why not now?
But I couldn't. There was something that drew me over the landslide and there was something drawing me up to the next bend. And the next. I kept on going.

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I was a bit worried about my ankle. The rough road was brutal for it if I stopped and walked to take a photo. Stepping on a stone or rock was like a stiletto going up through my heel and slicing through my ankle. Going down wasn't going to be easy and if I had to walk I'd be fecked! I still didn't turn around though.

I was rewarded for my curiousity when the mist started to burn off, the clouds lifted and the sun shone. I still had lots of very cool shade on the road but the spots of sun were glorious!

There's always an interesting tree!

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Remembering the snake warning from yesterday kept me in my toes if I stopped for a photo.
And so I worked my way ever upwards bouncing on rock, slipping through sand, splashing through water and just generally enjoying myself. I was gaining height at a steady pace but hardly felt it. I think when my focus is on staying upright I don't pay too much attention to how I'm doing it.

The bends just kept calling out to me - and they didn't disappoint!

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That's all the detail. But what was it really like? How did it feel?
It was fabulous!
A wild and crazy road right from the start, low clouds below me when I could see them, a tight, enclosed road when I couldn't. The silver trees were scattered randomly around the hills, proud and defiant, while beside me I had all kinds of vegetation to amuse and amaze me. The big leaves that I thought were litter yesterday were strong and alive here. The giant ferns were along the road too. Roadside cliffs were sopping wet and full of all kinds of mossy greenery, some very spooky and atmospheric.
Butterflies were everywhere! One even hitched a ride on my shoulder for a while! Black butterflies were the most common, often huddled in groups on the ground until I got too close then they scattered to the wind flittering and fluttering all around me.
Birds, and I'm pretty sure other animals, beeped, twittered, croaked and crowed around me. At one stage I was sure I'd damaged a spoke as I started to hear a rhythmic "ping" type sound. Concerned, I pulled up but the sound continued. I've no idea what the animal was but I bet they were highly amused!

Giant ferns!

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As I rose higher the trees changed and I entered Pine country with the stillness that it brings. (I stop hearing birds when there's only pine trees). Alone, totally alone, in the pine forest, just the sound of me bouncing along was delicious. Had I packed my Kindle I'd have sat and read a few tales from the Brothers Grimm. The atmosphere was palpable.

There was mist, then sun then the mist returned only to be vanquished one more time by the sun. It's so easy to understand why the Sun was revered as a God in country like this - everything changes under its power. Later, in the rain, the sun would sometimes blast through the cascading water creating magic and light and mystery and literally shrivel up the miserable cloud hanging over me.
As Talking Heads might say I was on the road to nowhere and there was nowhere else I'd rather have been.

What a CrazyBeautiful sky!

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There's a curious kind of liberty in bouncing along such a road with no destination in mind, knowing that at some stage I'll turn around. I'm a lazy bike tourist so I was genuinely interested at the mental equation going on in my head between the (lazy) urge to return and the curious urge to see around the next bend.

I was not making any kind of swift progress. The road was terrible and I maintained my tendency to stop and savour. At about 13:30 I decided to really go for it and see what progress I could make in half an hour.
I worked hard, I did, I really did but I didn't enjoy the process. This was technical riding involving a lot of looking right in front of my wheel - not around me. At about 14:00 I stopped and had a look at where I was. About another 300 meters to climb to the top over about 6km. That was at least another hour non-stop. I didn't even know what I'd see at the top! Going down was probably going to take as long as going up and this was one road I did not want to be on after dark. This road deserved a bit of respect and while I've been feckless on other roads a similar approach didn't sit well with me here.

I sat down, ate an orange in the still pine forest, smoked a ciggie then turned around and started the long, slow descent.

Everywhere was the sound of rushing water - sometimes I even got to see it!

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The first thing I noticed was the cold. Not working anywhere near as hard I could really feel the temperature, about 15C. Then I entered mist and then the rain started! Out with my raincoat and a bit of shelter under a tree. Eventually the drips worked their way through the foliage so I set off again.
I met a pickup on the way up! Then another! It looked like the road was open again! A few motorbikes seemed to confirm this.

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I'm not a great fan of riding the same road in different directions unless the road is worth it and this one certainly was! There were genuinely different views on offer not just from a different perspective but a changed sun position.

Bouncing downhill two dogs who didn't even raise themselves when I bounced up started barking and charging towards me. Uh oh!
A retriever cross and some kind of a shepherd cross, not small by any means. As he charged, the retriever pinned back his ears and his tail started to wag. What could I do but stop? I think the poor dogs were desperate for company. The shepherd cross was a bit shy at first, but still friendly while his retriever buddy was jumping up on me. Paws on shoulders jumping! Then the shepherd got in on the act, thankfully on the other side for a bit of balance. A lovely moment with two, big, exuberant, happy dogs.
I was getting destroyed from their big, muddy paws on me but not a single feck was given! Besides, I figured that when I rolled back into town I'd look like a real bike adventurer covered in mud.
When I finally went to move on they just trotted away as if I no longer existed!

Mis dos amigos!

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There had been another interesting dog earlier too. A Shepherd, young and healthy was lying under what looked like a wooden stand that had milk churns stacked along it. No sign of his boss anywhere, just the dog, alert, lying on the ground. He raised his head to watch me on my way up and again on my way down. Not a growl, bark or peep out of him. Curious, watchful but neither friendly nor threatening.

A JCB was busy clearing up a corner. the driver stopped to let me by, his helper pointing to the roadside cliff where small amounts of sand and soil were still falling. That was kind of scary. The JCB had clearly being working its way up the road clearing all the landslides big and small as it went and leaving layers of squishy, slippy mud on the "surface".

A lone silver tree

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I could see rain moving in on the town as I got closer and sure enough I started getting sokaed again. Cold and wet overrode hunger and I headed straight for my little hotel where I was presented with a coffee and homemade carrot cake!
A hot, hot shower and I was human again.


The family seemed to be hosting a bible or prayer meeting. Some elderly aunts were present and then the man of the house was reading from the bible. There seemed to be a bit of a lecture (from Dad) and then a family discussion. An interesting experience for the outsider as I went about my business. A number of novels for the use of guests seemed to be Christain in tone and I have never seen a Christian version of Uno until now!

I went out for a bite to eat, had a look around but became very, very tired. Home to bed with me!

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What a great feckin' day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Salento via (Cocora) 22 km Total KM 13843
Min meters 1911, Max Meters 2444
Total Climb 660 Total Descent 690
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

*For those following on Strava (lots more pictures!) these are documented as two different rides. Or will be when I get some decent wifi and can upload them!


The Morning Ride

Ah, I don't even know where to start with today.
It was a day when excitement and satisfaction piled on top of joy, when misery and a whiff of danger couldn't sustain themselves and a day of pure, sheer enjoyment, of adventure and exploration settled itself in my memory.

Heading off to Cocora to look at some Palm Trees. I was happy just to be on a proper road!

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For some reason, after all this time on the road today seemed one of the most foreign of days to me. In my world foreign isn't a negative word. I'm not sure why. Maybe it was the fabulous, beautiful and exotic trees, maybe it was the fact that my road was completely not what I was expecting. Maybe it was just my state of mind. Whatever the reason, it was.

This day is actually going to be split into two distinct posts and each one will have at least one additional post.
And I still won't be doing it justice!

Ho hum scenery Yeah, I know how that reads!

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I came to coffee country because I like coffee. My Colombian friend had told me to visit too. As you can see from my wanderings I'm hardly going in a straight line and I'm certainly not burning up the roads but that was my plan down here - to wander.
The fact of the matter is that I'm loving this part of my little adventure and a lot of it has little to do with coffee.
This morning's adventure certainly didn't.

My notes tell me that I can see the National Tree of Colombia in Cocora. All I know is that they're Palm trees and very tall. If I've seen one I can't recall the detail and since my notes are several years old and only text they don't help much.
I haven't looked online for pictures or more up to date information - I want to keep my head in exploring mode.

There was some adventure! On this bend some of the road had disappeared down the hill

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So, this morning, I got up, had coffee and set off on an unladen Roccado to climb over 500 meters to see me some Wax Palms. When I got back I'd load up and head off to Armenia on a paved backroad. Not too far and pretty much all downhill. An easy day.

Today's río was wild, noisy and in a big rush

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I had an actual road to get to Cocora which was a boon. I could really enjoy the weightlessness. A sharp descent and then I was in for a long climb.
Even if it was a "proper" road there was evidence of recent landslides and one place where some of the road had washed away.
Traffic was light with lots of Jeeps bringing people up to Cocora, site of a National Park.

It was very pleasant cycling even if uphill

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It was pleasant cycling and the scenery was pretty much as I've come to expect. Ha! How cocky am I?

Big rocks scattered around the landscape point to some pretty violent times at one stage, or, as I prefer to think of it, some baby giant didn't clean up all his toys

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I wasn't feeling any particular pressure. My bags were all packed up and out of the room. My hosts were kindness and hospitality personified. Return when I liked to load up. And only 20 odd km downhill to Armenia. No pressure - a great way to travel.

I really liked this one - consumed by nature

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A few roadies were out, silent as ever, although I'm sure my unladen bike with a flag was bemusing for them.

The valley was planted with fruit and coffee. I was able to determine that some of the trees were avacado.

Again, no tractors around here. All work is done by hand. Motorbikes carry man and gear. It's not an easy life

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To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Salento via (Cocora) 22 km Total KM 13843
Min meters 1911, Max Meters 2444
Total Climb 660 Total Descent 690
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

*For those following on Strava (lots more pictures!) these are documented as two different rides. Or will be when I get some decent wifi and can upload them!


The Morning Ride Part 2

Then I saw them! At first, my eyes were drawn to an unusual, pine shaped tree but then my eyes picked out anti aircraft explosions in the air. Or at least that was my first thought. Stopping to look properly I saw that the explosions, small as they were, ocurred on top of a very thin, tall trunk. Wax Palms!

In my world there is something wonderful about Palm Trees. "Nature's Fireworks" I've called them before. I don't have the words to describe how happy seeing these trees made me. In fact, it took me a while to notice them as I was busy looking at the unusual pine shaped tree along the road!

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I love my Palm Trees and while there are clear similarities, these are also very, very original. And beautifully fragile and delicate.
I was beyond enthralled, beyond excited! Like my "coffee valley" the other day I was a little bit overwhelmed. Here I was in the middle of nowhere, pulled up on the side of the road gawking at these wonderful plants having got here on my bike!
Talk about wanting something and then giving it to yourself! On the other side of the globe! In a country where they tell you to be careful - and I just feel so damn comfy!

A little later..... Look for the Butterfly wings!

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I was happy now so I could have turned back but I continued on.

It was still an interesting road

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Truth be told, there's not many of them and I'm not sure that's a bad thing. There's something about them that strikes me that they're at their best alone. To me, their seeming fragility just proves their strength. A few scattered around just seems to emphasise the individual beauty. A forest of them? I'm not sure I'd be so impressed.

Taken in front of the park. Note the Jeeps for photos

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There's a small industry around the entrance to the National Park. Car parks, first of all for all the people that drive up. Restaurants to feed all the people. Several stables to bring people on horse rides and lots of guides to bring people through the park or on one of the hikes. And armed soldiers.

The sense of satisfaction was immense!

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I loved the area inside the Park, set up as it was for photographic opportunities. Kids of all ages could stand under a "parachute" and be photographed floating through the valley. Simple, colourful wings to make any boy or girl (of any age) a butterfly. Patronising Alert! I love the simplicity of it.
Of course there are laden jeeps too that whole groups can climb onto and be photographed.
Everywhere I looked I saw smiling faces.
I grabbed a coffee and a quick bite to eat then set off back to Salento.

What a great road for flying down!

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With a phone signal I checked the rugby score - Ireland had just reclaimed the lead from New Zealand and seemed to be playing very well. I was delighted! I could have had a lazy morning watching the game but I chose this instead - maybe I'm becoming something of a cyclist!

Narrow, but fun!

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Whoah! The road was suddenly narrow! The bike felt as light as the proverbial feather and I got a real thrill from pushing the speed then slowing down for the bends. Great fun! I gave up stopping for photos and just beamed my way down.

A morning I will never forget

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I didn't even mind the last steep climb back up to the town, got back to my little hotel, picked up my bags and got ready fot the day's "proper" travel.

What a fabulous morning!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Calarcá 25 km Total KM 13868
Min meters 1409, Max Meters 2003
Total Climb 297 Total Descent 756
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 22

The Afternoon Ride;

Sometimes it helps to be unprepared!

At the first corner on my reloaded bike my steering jammed and I couldn't make the turn. Uh oh!
Dumbass! I've had two days of weightlessness! I needed adjusting - not the bike!

My hostess was wonderful making sure to enthusiastically talk up whatever I was considering to do and offering suggestions on places to stop, to eat or somewhere else I could go if I got to X. Normally I recoil from someone being too pushy but not this time. There was a genuineness to her that killed any cynicism stone dead.
My road was paved she had told me.
Ha!

My road wasn't paved in the conventional sense. Instead it was paved with wildness, with beauty, with adventure, with risk and danger and a whole lot of fun!

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Again, I wasn't out of the town when the surface disappeared. I was so distracted that I didn't notice Mani leaping out of his pocket on my handlebar bag until a little fella took off after me calling out. He returned my amigo with a smile and promptly turned around my words of gratitude enough for him.

With Mani back in his pocket I had the chance to look at the road. 20km of this was going to be interesting. What I'm starting to call my "Loon face" appeared and it didn't disappear until the edge of Armenia several hours later.

Sometimes a gps is a great tool!

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Bouncing past two backpackers walking sulkily but together, out for a stroll or to cool off the guy called out in English asking where I was going. "Argentina", was my answer. "How long will it take?", he fired back.
"I'm on the road more than two years", I called back, "I'm not taking any bets on how long more!".
Then I was bouncing down a steep hill leaving the fighting couple behind to their domestic issues. An advantage of travelling solo - I rarely fight with myself!

After the Wax Palms this morning I thought I'd hit maximum thrill for a while. Then the Touring Gods threw this at me!

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A companion might be well peed off with me at this stage! For me, discovering that a paved road is actually not much more than rock, sand, mud and stones is just an unexpected adventure. I don't think all the world thinks like that! Actually, come to think of it, a few years ago I'm not sure I'd have thought like that. Big adventures start with little ones. And anything can be a little adventure!

Slippy, slidey, jungley, and downhill! A magical road that could have taken years off my life instead wiped away decades and left a little boy to slip and slide.

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I've tried several times to write down just how this road made me feel and nothing comes even close.
Way, way back on another continent I spied a boat called "Intrepido". The Intrepid. It's stuck in my head as a great name for an adventure bike. That word comes to mind.

This road was for the intrepid!

Oh, sometimes there was a bit of a view too!

​

The road was narrow, often on the verge of being overwhelmed with vegetation, it was steep, loose, mucky, sandy, slippy and dangerous. And beautiful, wild, very, very foreign. I nearly flattened my loon face into the ground on one muddy patch - but I didn't. The atmosphere was like the moisture in the day - covering everything, dripping down the sides, gathering in pools under me, soaking me if I brushed against something.
It was feckin' brilliant!

I felt sorry for the folks on the quadbikes. Too separate from everything. I was jealous of them when I had to climb a horrible hill though!

​

I had to resist the urge to put my right foot down at times for some extra support - my poor ankle screamed in protest. But other than that? Pure adventure!

Intrepid!

Actual paving!! Signifying a steep descent and badly broken it only added to the adventure!

The amount and variety of vegetation was mind boggling. And the fact that it was so close, often touching me just added to the whole experience.

A river valley, far, far below

To be continued........
​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Calarcá 25 km Total KM 13868
Min meters 1409, Max Meters 2003
Total Climb 297 Total Descent 756
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 22

The Afternoon Ride; Part 2

Sometimes it helps to be unprepared!

I'd thought I'd knock the distance out in an hour, maybe two with my propensity to stop. That was being rapidly revised upwards to about four hours if the road continued as it was. Therefore it made no sense to stop beside a café opposite a great view so I did! A lady selling fruit wanted to give me the orange I asked for free but I couldn't be having that. She cut it into quarters for me so I sucked and ate admiring a spectacular view into a river valley far, far below.
I chatted to her, a Colombian couple admiring the view and watched an evil cat dominate a huge dog.

Coffee!

​

Some young backpackers emerged from the café and I was amused as they all gathered around Roccado and one of the French guys started giving explanations of panniers, gears and God knows what. I wandered over behind him, bemused, until one of his companions interrupted his lecture, pointed to me and said "we could just ask him". It's not often the French look sheepish - another bonus to my day!

Magical, mysterious meandering

​

I shouldn't have but decided to ham things up a little in response to their questions. I started in NL. I was in my third year travelling. I was heading for Argentina. I didn't know where I was sleeping tonight. I didn't know where I was going tomorrow. All true, but there are different ways of delivering the information and I made myself sound ..... What's the word? Ah yes! Intrepid!

Dark and very, very cool

​

When I asked them where they were off to there was an embarrassed silence. Then one of the girls smiled at me and said "We've just had coffee and now we're going for lunch". We all laughed.

A river and a waterfall!! Am I not being spoiled enough? The Touring Gods evidently agreed - the rain was minutes away!

​

I set off again, now on a bit of a surface. Like further north, a type of paving had been laid for the really steep parts. Here, it was two strips of corrugated concrete with rocks embedded in concrete down the middle. The problem was with the corrugation - it was often broken, leaving wide and deep gaps therefore very tough going down. When it stopped there was often a significant drop back to the earth.

No editing, just natural colours

​

Eventually I came to a bridge over a wild river and pulled in to don my full raingear. Drops had being falling and the sky ahead was not friendly. A group on quad bikes who had passed me already a few times were racing over and back across the bridge and up the hill on the other side. Not particularly pleasant for me.

The climb, though, was tough. Very steep. On that corrugated concrete strip that gave little room for error. I was glad to finally make it to the top but that was the signal for rain to fall. As I went along with no place for shelter it just got heavier.

Fan-bloody-tastic!

​

Having wrapped up in advance I wasn't cold which is, for me, the main thing. The road became even more challenging with little rivers down each side, potholes filling and mud becoming very thin. Water was pouring down from the sky, from the trees above me and the cliffs along the road.

Adventurous fun off the scale!

Water everywhere!

​

Then I hit the inevitable - a mudslide! A JCB was working away and I squeezed past but only to hit a calf deep sea of mud and a mound of clay. I wasn't too bothered having climbed over a bigger one yesterday. Then I remembered - I was unladen yesterday! The driver's assistant was straight over to help me. Not an offer of help an "I'm going to help you". We pushed and pulled and dragged Roccado through the mud and he wouldn't take a tip. He just wanted to ask about my trip, his eyes shining brighter and brighter as I repaid my debt to him with Spanish words. Standing in the middle of the road in the pouring rain, plastered in mud I was feeling pretty good!

Looking back at the mudslide, now considerably smaller due to all the mud stuck to me and Roccado!

​

He assured me the road was clear the rest of the way and he wasn't wrong. In fact, the last 5 or 6km were on a proper road that morphed into a big one with a shoulder. It's probably the first time in my cycling life that I didn't want the shoulder! I wanted my old road back. My adventure road!

Armenia's a big town and heavy traffic, steep hills and the loss of my shoulder within the city limits soon had me forgetting about what was behind me in favour of what was in front. First stop the Plaza, a coffee and then find a place to stay, preferably one with a hose outside. Or, at least, that was the plan.

No! Just no! I was not staying in Armenia. I wasn't even staying long enough for a cup of coffee. Klaxons were going off in my head even before I got to the Plaza. Arriving at the Plaza - the closed off Plaza - they went into overdrive. Sometimes cold, wet and tired I can be grumpy and quick to judge but I was none of those things - I was in great form. In other words it wasn't me - it was the town. Time to get the hell out! I could point to a large number of people scrabbling through bins, or the cheap hotels and the congregations of scary looking hookers outside, or the sinister stares I received as I negotiated the traffic clogged streets as evidence but something intangible was wailing in my head and my entire body was tense. A closed off Plaza in a country where Plazas are the heart of a town? Something's not right here.

There was even a tunnel! Sure, it was full of water but it was great fun!​

There's a town close by, Carcará, and that's where I headed in crazy, dense traffic, a yellow cab trying to take me out on a roundabout and a motorcyclist clipping me on the elbow. It was a relief to cross a busy bridge (with a beautiful, wild river valley below) and leave the place behind. Except I now had a brutal climb!

I'm thinking that this isn't prime riverside frontage

​

I arrived at the Plaza in spitting rain and did a lap. Then had a coffee. And relaxed. Better than Armenia anyway!

Booking only had places that wanted my kidney for a night's stay so I set off looking for an old place listed on iOverlander. I got confused and found another, lucked out on the price and got checked in apologising profusely for the mud trail I was leaving everywhere. The male receptionist, very formal initially, softened remarkably and was very pleasant.

A hot, hot and long shower revived me and gave me a place to wash the mud off me. Roccado's in the parking garage below. He'll need some attention too!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 793, Sunday, November 14, 2021, Calarcá

I got up late. I was tired. And grumpy.
I had a monster day ahead of me. At least 1700 meters on another of Colombia's famous climbs! Ha! I know about this one!

Alto de Linea. One of the most dangerous roads in all of Colombia! A tunnel has been built to take the pressure off but it's only open since 2020.

My arrival in the damp Plaza lifted the spirits. A far more pleasant atmosphere than Armenia

​

Osmand has had a problem plotting a route. A car route takes me through the tunnel which I don't want to do. I believe there is an "old road" alternative. A bike route takes me back to Salento and across the Volcano I didn't reach the other day. Unladen! I'll just have to wait until I get up there and see which way to go.

There can be some pretty ugly churches in these parts!

​

I packed up and got ready to leave. It was already past 10am and I did a few calculations. No. I wasn't going to make it today.
I asked about an extra night and stayed. It'll still be there tomorrow.

Strangely, most of the interesting buildings were a bit away from the Plaza

​

I went up to the Plaza had a couple of cups of coffee in my favourite building. It has quite the history, at one time being a theatre and cinema. It showed one of the first horror movies in Colombia, something that caused quite the stir!
For a Sunday coffee it was a lovely place.

My favourite building on the Plaza. Now a café it has had an interesting history. Something about it reminded me of Germany

​

The Plaza was busy at 11 am and all through the day. They have battery powered cars here for the kids - It made me sad!
On one corner of the Plaza a very mixed group were going through some dance routines, some better than others, all equal in the enjoyment judging by the smiles.
Another corner seemed to have all the older folks checking to see who's alive and who was missing.
All around families and couples walked and talked, sat and played. The Plaza, physically may not have been up to much but the atmosphere was bubbling.

A 1955 Morris Minor in bright red! A fabulous looking machine - with the keys left in the ignition!

​

I then decided to visit the Botanical Gardens. That involved a 3km walk through town and out the far side.
It was only after I'd bought my ticket that I was told it was a guided tour. Bah!!

It's not that I'm anti-social (or maybe I am!) but I'm not a fan of group tours, especially solo. They're one of the few times I feel like an outsider.
For a start I like what I like and often it's not what the guide is interested in showing.
Then there's the language to complicate things.
And there's all the things just over there that I want to investigate (and normally can) but on a tour I can't!

Wandering through the gardens. There was surprisingly little that was unfamiliar to me and there were few explanations about fauna and flora, instead concentrating on the history of the gardens themselves

​

I was amused at the oohing and ahhing from the group at different sections but honestly? My road yesterday kicked the pants off the gardens!

The highlight was definitely the butterfly section, accessed through heavy rubber strips (to keep the butterflies in).
I got to see the metallic blue butterfly that I've been seeing on and off for months. One even landed on me! In fact, lots landed on me!
It sounds cool. But when you look at a butterfly's face up close you're reminded that under all the colour and beauty they're just a bug. And when they stick the same "arm" they use to eat pineapple into your arm and won't fly away no matter how much you shake your arm it can get a little freaky!
Intrepid bike traveller - freaked out by butterflies!

My blue butterfly is a really interesting one! A completely different "outside" pattern and colour to the "inside".

​

I wandered back to the centre, had a coffee then a bite to eat and back to the hotel. I popped out to pick up supplies for tomorrow. I'd need nourishment.

At first it's fun. Then the feeder comes out and my imagination moves into overdrive!😀

​

The wifi in the hotel was very, very poor - at least for uploading. I tried to make an update here but gave up. Instead I decided to do a bit of research.

These little guys have been captivating me for several countries! Professional photographers were in the butterfly area snapping away at people as the butterflies descended upon them. Not the solo traveller though!

​

In my head this part of the trip is organised loosely like this
1. Arrive in Cartagena
2. Head south to coffee country
3. Explore coffee country
4. Head south to the Trampoline of Death
5. Ecuador
Since Ibagué is the last of the coffee country, I'd better check out what the situation is with Ecuador and what I need to do.
As it turns out, it's pretty straightforward - if I want to go to Ecuador I have to fly! There are no land crossings permitted.
While it's theoretically possible to take some backroads across the border I won't be doing that. Illegal, for a start and Lord knows what issues I'll have when I try to leave!

Quite a few gables and corners were painted up in this style. It's a town with a bit of a hard edge, a bit function over style. These helped soften it.

​

I don't really know how to process this. Parts of Ecuador are under a State of Emergency - criminal related not Covid. Past Ecuador I'll run into weather issues in Peru and Bolivia. Serious weather issues. The closed border is a definite barrier, but it's only the first of several.

Tomorrow I'm going to make a monster climb that will allow me to turn south and head for Ecuador. But Ecuador don't want me!

Tired and grumpy I went to bed.
I watched the highlights (again!) of Ireland v New Zealand and that did help!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, Calarcá to El Espinal 130 km Total KM 13973*
Min meters 423, Max Meters 2614
Total Climb 1664 Total Descent 2819
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 25

Ha! Dumbass!

I was up about 4 am determined to get an early start on the day ahead. I had breakfast and coffee in my room and then got my gear downstairs. I picked Roccado up from the parking garage below and set about loading up outside on the street. The night porter was standing beside me watching the whole time and chatting away.

I'm the world's worst for dragging myself out of the scratcher...... But it is nearly always worth it!

​

It was just after 6am when I crossed the Plaza and headed out of town. The climbing started at the town boundary. And it was steep! Slow going.
I was feeling good and confident. I knew I just had to grind it out.

Tough climbs are always made better by the views....

​

Traffic was quite light and there were a few other cyclists out too. Not talkative ones though.

I ain't got nothing to be complaining about!

​

Early on an SUV passed me with the most dense and vile smoke pouring out of its exhaust. I pulled up and waited for the stinky air to clear and wondered about the driver and what they were thinking. There's a huge climb, lots of tunnels and their machine is very, very unhealthy! A couple of kms later I didn't have to wonder when I came across the SUV parked up on the roadside its bonnet open.

Clouds caught on the mountains!

​

I passed a woman and young man sitting on the wall on a sharp corner. I had no idea what they were doing there. A little later I had my answer when an articulated truck passed me with both of them hanging off the back!

Looking back......

​

Bends can be so sharp and steep that trucks veer across the road to get through. "Volunteers" stand in the middle of the road directing, or at least, warning other traffic. For a tip, of course!

Truck on the wrong side of the road - the only way they can take the bend and a "volunteer" warning oncoming traffic. Apparently, religious statues don't help!

​

I was passed by a motorbike with a doggy passenger sitting on the fuel tank! It was too fast to see if there was a harness. A dog on a motorbike is not that unusual but normally is between rider and passenger. This guy was front and center!

It was bloody hard work. A steep ascent with no let up at all. Bends could be really steep and there were lots of them. But the views were fantastic! There were lots of walls to lean the bike, rest and enjoy the views.

It's a pretty impressive engineering feat. I'm not sure if these are "new" sections or the road (opened 2020) is already under repair. iOverlander is full of stories of long delays on this road for years.

​

I had decided to adopt my "gain 100 meters take a break" process and I needed it for the first 300 meters. After that the gradient eased slightly and I stopped paying attention to the meters. When I did look again I'd broken 500 meters. This was more like it! 700 rolled by easily enough. This was turning out to be a good day!

Getting higher and the mist is swirling in - below me!

​

I pulled in at the little industry around a Police Checkpoint. The traffic has to slow down so there are street sellers and a couple of food places. This time the Police were only interested in commercial traffic. Trucks were pulled over and papers checked. A quick glance was enough for approval but if something wasn't right the truck was pulled over.

The longest tunnel in Latin America!! I'm really putting together quite the list of accomplishments!

​

Up and up I went! Arriving at the toll plaza I pulled over for a coffee and empanada before continuing the climb.

That's when one of the guys working on the road gave me the bad news. They won't let me through.
I toddled over to a group of ladies actually working on the tolls and they confirmed. It was impossible!

Well, there's my casual attitude to planning coming back to bite me on the ass!

I got another coffee and had a think about what this means.

But first I had a little giggle at myself! All those meters climbed and for absolutely nothing!

Toll Plaza and the end of the road...... Osmand reckons I'd climbed over 900 meters to get here.....

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, Calarcá to El Espinal 130 km Total KM 13973*
Min meters 423, Max Meters 2614
Total Climb 1664 Total Descent 2819
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 25

Ha! Dumbass! Part Two

Ibagué means nothing to me other than as the begining of the penultimate stage in Colombia. In fact, the last few days (and just a minute ago) I've been told that Ibagué is the "wrong way" to go south to Ecuador. People clearly don't get my navigation issues!

I could go south past Calí from Armenia but I have recollections that that route is not the safest. I'd still need to cross this mountain range if I want to do the Trampoline of Death the last thing on my very loose wishlist.

Of course, Murphy's Law kicked in and my phone had no credit!

iOverlander confirmed that there were a few security alerts further south. A few years old, but significant. (iOverlander works offline for most functionality).
Osmand showed a route across the mountains further south but it was a minor road. I've seen minor roads in Colombia. Hmmmmm.

The only other way to cross these mountains is the Alto de Letras - in reverse - from Manizales!
Because of the roundabout way I had come from Manizales I could actually go back with minimal travelling on the same roads as earlier. Besides, I flew down one side of the Alto de Letras, going back up slowly could be interesting. Back to Honda then a straight run to Ibagué and I'm back on track. More time in the coffee country!

The third option was to hitch a lift. I've no philosophical objection to that but I do have a timidity problem. I hate to ask for help.

Two coffees later I had a plan. I'd head back towards Manizales, earn epic bike tourer status by completing the longest bike climb in the world - in both directions! - and circle back to Ibagué.

I climbed on and set off.
Rolling back down the hill I had a chat with myself so when I came to the police checkpoint I pulled up and spoke to a Policeman. Of course I couldn't cycle through the tunnel! Yes, I could get a lift. Maybe a bus, maybe someone else. I'd have to pay (of course!). Just leave it to him.
I breathed a sigh of relief.
He asked the first bus. No. He asked the next truck. Yes!
A couple of young fellas, a part of his team, hopped in the back and I lifted the bags and then the bike up to them.
I tried to tip the friendly Policeman - no way! I tried to tip his young lads - no way! I went to get into the cab but there was already someone in it - that's when I realised I was in the back too!

Not quite the view I'm used to in the mountains!

​

With lots of waves, smiles and wishes for a safe journey I was on my way!
Fifteen minutes after asking for a bit of help I was on my way. I need to remember that.
There was some steel scaffolding in the back so there was lots of space. I lay down and got comfy. It was a flatbed truck with a canvas roof, open front and back. The floor was metal but I didn't care! I was on my way to Ibagué!

Epic Bike Tourer status in tatters!

At the toll some soldiers spoke to the driver and a woman and young man climbed aboard too. Venezuelans. We managed a snatch of conversation during a traffic jam but the rest of the trip was too noisy to talk. I gave them some of my bags for sitting on.

The journey was very different to what I had planned! Easier and faster for a start, although there were several sections of roadworks that were slow and bumpy. The views were interesting, lying as I was, on my back. Not terribly comfo6 though!

About 4km from the centre of Ibagué the truck came to a halt. This time the driver opened the back gate so I could manage easier. For payment he wouldn't name a price so I gave him what the trip was worth to me and he seemed very, very happy.

Reloading the bike I was joined in a pleasant conversation by a passerby.
I took out Osmand and had a look. I hadn't expected to be in Ibagué until tomorrow. There was a light rain starting to fall, the city looked big and stressful. I got on the main road and sailed past the exit for Ibagué. My time in coffee country was over!

I just wanted to ride.

A decent road, a very comfortable shoulder, a big city, rain getting ready to fall..... I just kept on going

​

I'd laughed back at the toll booth - what else could I do? But sitting down at a little roadside stand trying to put together a route from scratch wasn't exactly ideal. Exciting? Yes! Ideal no. It was draining.
Then there's the whole Ecuador thing. That's a real roadblock that I don't have to face right at this moment. It's bothering me but I'm parking it for now.
This road is good and big and downhill. I can blow off some steam. There's a few small towns. I'll see what strikes my fancy.

If ever there was a road for pounding out some frustrations........

​

I got bored of the big, broad, smooth highway and took a minor road through a few villages. Quiet places, barely surviving by the looks of things. I think this used to be the main road but then they built new ones (in each direction) on huge, tall concrete stilts. The villages now are a base for these stilts and the new road far, far above.

Interesting scenery

​

Then I diverted off altogether to take the road to El Espinal.
Two lanes, tricky shoulder but the most wonderful tree canopy for miles and miles.

Hills instead of mountains......

​

El Espinal has a "Mythology Park" with interesting statues and trees. Then off to the Plaza for a well attended funeral and a friendly coffee.

It was hot!

​

I had lots of conversations while I sipped my coffee.
Highlight was Geronimo, a young fella accompanied by his mother. Could he have a photo with the bike? Of course! I introduced myself and told him where I was from. His little eyes opened wide in wonder. Then his words started tumbling out! I needed his mother to translate some of his questions but he seemed to understand me ok. The poor woman kept apologising and I kept telling her it was fine! One of his questions; What's Geronimo in English?

There's some pretty impressive roadbuilding in these parts

​

Another man, dressed up to show his respects at the funeral, I presumed, had a 50 year old bike from India! In perfect, gleaming condition. He was a bit shy at first but his pride in his bike helped overcome it.

Today's río

​

Finding a hotel was a bit of a chore but I got one, had a cold shower and went awandering.

The last leg to El Espinal. Very pretty!

​

I'm in low country again and the heat is oppressive again! There's a desert down the road! For a day's travelling things sure have changed!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


Edit to add:
*I covered about 60km in a truck, climbing about 700 meters

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, El Espinal

The Mythology Park along the main road into El Espinal. A lovely park with lots of shade, people and stalls selling fruit juice (no coffee!)

Unfortunately, the boards explaining the mythology behind the statues had been vandalised and broken. Other than graffiti, that's the first vandalism in a public space that I recall seeing in my travels since México!

Of course, the Mythology is all local.

As (nearly) always there is a wonderful tree

It's a pity I couldn't read about these stories

In the Main Plaza an action statue (of Símon Bolívar) which clearly doesn't frighten the birds,!

The Church. The large group of people outside had gathered for a funeral. Clearly a respected local character, they received a guard of honour from the Fire Brigade and a very large crowd.

Even after dark the Plaza is bubbling and alive

Another lovely tree in the Mythology Park

The road through the town - unusually quiet

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 795, Tuesday, November 16, 2021, El Espinal to Natagaima 66 km Total KM 14039
Min meters 336, Max Meters 375
Total Climb 182 Total Descent 147
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 36

Back to boring!

I fell asleep last night in my clothes on the bed! I woke up sometime around two, brushed my teeth (somewhere a sister of mine is proud as punch!) plugged in my phone and went back to bed. The day and the night time heat was exhausting! It was near 7am when I woke up again.

I was hot, grumpy and not terribly motivated. I stumbled out for a coffee then slowly got organised. My route out of town had me pass the "Mythology Park" so I had to stop again! I love that place! Then I had a coffee and a couple of "croissants" in a bakery. I'd love to know what French people make of Colombian croissants!
I could not make myself rush! Sitting outside, the bike beside me and watching the world go by was pleasant enough!

This is what I was facing into. No wonder I was slow to get going!

​

I finally climbed aboard and headed off.
Not for the first time on this trip I found myself grateful for a headwind. I could feel the sun blasting me but the wind was preventing it from killing me. I knew I'd need to be careful with my head in this sun.

And the view to the front. A decent road, a very decent shoulder and an extra "road" should I need it!

​

The road was a two laner with a pretty decent shoulder and flat as the proverbial pancake so at least I was making decent progress. I was passing through farmland with lots of maize growing and some cattle in boggier land. There was a surprising amount of water around.
For a lot of the way there was a second road running parallel. It appears that they're planning to turn this into a dual carriageway but like a lot of road development in Colombia it seems to be taking a very long time!

This was an interesting section!

​

What can I say? It was pretty boring riding! Easy and safe. But not the kind of road trans-continental adventures are made of.
Yes! I'm a fickle fecker! Back in Panamá I'd have gnawed your arm off for a decent, friendly road like this, one where I felt comfortable and safe!

Fickle!

​

It was very, very hot! Too hot! My own fault for leaving so late but I had been very tired and if I'm honest, the situation with the Ecuadorian border is something of a demotivator.

The bridge was interesting, with an old railway line beside it. Trains have disappeared in this part of Latin America

​

I diverted to pass through Guamo, a long, lively town but saw no spires so didn't look for the Plaza. It was a very vibrant place and I knew if I stopped I might not continue.
After that, though, the road became rolling with surprisingly tough little climbs. Slowing down and working hard I really felt the heat.

Crossing a big river I arrived into the town of Saldaña and went looking for the Plaza. A bit of shade and a rest would help. Another Plaza closed off, but this time for rebuilding. I did a couple of laps looking for a bakery or similar in shade but spotted an oj vendor on a corner. I parked up and ordered a freshly squeezed juice from a very friendly girl. Oh yes please! The biggest one!
I plonked down on a rock to rest and sip.

Later, a lower sun cast more shade. The coolness of the shade has to be experienced but just emphasises the power of the sun

​

I was beside a type of homemade cargo bike used to carry the oranges and make deliveries. Yep! They do deliveries. An older man was knocking around not doing much and a teenage boy was knocking around too but she was all business, making calls, keeping busy. I doubt this is their usual spot given that the park is closed and this was a broken down corner beside a building.

Then they started to pack up so I finished my drink, paid the pleasant girl with a very gratefully received tip and compliment and went to the bike. That's when, I presume, her brother came over with a business card for me to take with me.
I started to explain that I was only passing through and it was a waste to give it to me when he started to speak. It was only then that I realised he was, as a friend of mine would describe, "one of God's special people".
Oh Dumbass!
I took the card and showed him where I put it, on top of my bar bag where maps are supposed to go. Nice and visible.
If only I could make people so happy so easily.
His sister smiled at me appreciatively as I pushed away, happy, I believe, to see him so happy.

That is one powerful sun!

​

I don't know why it hit me so hard. Perhaps the mood I was in - woe is me the border is closed - or perhaps the uphill struggle that girl and her brother are facing. Life cannot be easy but in the short time I was there it was clear that she was a capable and determined person and yet so "normal", so pleasant.
I'd have sat there all day drinking juice if they hadn't been packing up but giving her another tip now would not have been welcome, I think. She didn't want charity.
A business card for a juice vendor! If anyone can make a go of it, she can.

I found another place in the shade and had a cold drink. Then a coffee. Then a cold drink again. It was roasting and I was lagging badly.
A motorcyclist stopped to talk to me asking questions about my trip which fired up the girls in the shop to talk to me too.
A guy wanted to sell me a ticket for a draw which I declined since I wouldn't be here. He didn't like that at all, grilling me as to why I wouldn't be around. His ticket book looked as genuine as a €3 note. Then he demanded that I buy him food. Not a request, a demand.
Maybe it's a flaw but I rebel against that. He'd tried to sell his tickets to others before me and accepted the brush offs. He was different with me.
He eventually lost the staring match and shuffled off glowering at me.

I got back in the road then deciding to knock out a few more kms.

Guess!

​

Natagaima was the next town and I wasn't long on the road until I was wishing I'd stayed back in Saldaña.
I was making decent progress but I was working hard. Too hard it felt like. I'd eaten nothing since my "croissants" this morning and even though I was low on fuel my belly felt full. I was drinking lots of water.

The kms were ticking by slowly, too slowly for the effort expended. Oh how I miss my cool mountains!

It was darkening as I rolled into town and found the Plaza, a relatively dull affair but I pulled into the bakery for a coffee and a cold drink. I found a cheap room in a very basic place, revelled in the cold shower and went out for food.
I wasn't even hungry but I knew I needed fuel. In such a small place options are limited and all I could manage was some chips, cheese and meat.

The church with the inconveniently parked truck

​

Wifi was passable so I spent about 4 hours updating this and was ready for sleep about midnight, alarm set for 4 am.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 796, Wednesday, November 17, 2021, Natagaima to Brisas 28 km Total KM 14067
Min meters 340, Max Meters 409
Total Climb 197 Total Descent 147
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 36

Bad Belly Blues

All I wanted was to get up early and get on the road before the full heat hit me. Instead I was awake about 2am with cramps and nausea and too weak to move much.
I felt horrible.

More of the same ....... But at least there's a mountain!

​

It was close to 10am setting off and if the accommodation wasn't so poor I'd have stayed in the one horse town.

Any excuse to stop!

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Cycling was a struggle. Any effort above the minimum caused my belly to spasm.

More mountains!

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I had hoped to get off the road and take a back road but that was clearly not going to happen. I'm in desert country! Imagine that! From huge mountains, rainforest vegetation within a day or so I'm heading into a desert. For the full desert experience I had wanted to take a back road. My stomach said not today.

Now this was interesting! For a km or so the road was filled with migrating centipedes (or millipedes - I didn't stop to count their legs). It was in a very defined area and I couldn't figure out why.

​

I knew within a few minutes that I wasn't going to make my destination about 60km down the road so settled on a small village about 25km away.

Some interesting trees too!

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If there was shade I stopped. If there was a shop with shade I stopped longer.

More excitement! An ancient covered pickup had managed to roll over and was being hauled out of the ditch. The passengers seemed fine, huddled on the opposite side of the road. A pretty straight road I don't know how it happened.

​

I rolled into the roadside village of Brisas and got a not inexpensive room (beggars can't be choosers) and promptly fell asleep.

It never fails to amaze me just how green everything is despite the extreme heat and power of the sun

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Later, as darkness fell I asked in the attached restaurant and got some rice and eggs. They didn't kill me! The first bit of food all day.

Today's río. Watching it bubble along made me jealous!

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My room has no key, no electricity sockets that work but I really don't care! Wifi is too weak for uploading.

An interesting mountain

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An early night and an early morning. Tomorrow will be better!

I miss my mountains!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 797, Thursday, November 18, 2021, Brisas to Villavieja 28 km Total KM 14095
Min meters 361, Max Meters 439
Total Climb 493 Total Descent 431
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 34

Bouncing back to bliss

This morning was better!
I wasn't 100% or anything close but there was an improvement. I had slept relatively well and didn't feel so weak and tired.
Couldn't face breakfast though!

I packed up and set off about 6:30 am. It was already heating up and the sun was out.
At first there was plenty of shade and hats off to the Colombians, I had a decent shoulder to plod along. The rolling hills took it out of me though and I had a laugh at the conqueror of the Alto de Letras struggling up gentle hills.

A quarter of an hour after starting this was my view. I just knew it was going to be a good day!

​

I didn't have a big day planned but I had options. I could stay on the main road and get to Aipe, what I understood to be another roadside town. Or I could turn off the main road and head into the desert and get to the town of Villa Vieja, on the opposite side of a river to Aipe. Villa Vieja (Old Town) spoke to me based on its name and the fact that it was a town in its own right. A lot of these roadside towns only exist for the road passing through and are not that interesting.
Also a factor in the decision was the river - the Magdalena again! - and the fact that it would be a ferry crossing - or so Osmand told me!
My plan was to get to the turn and then make up my mind.

​

I was only a few kms in when the turn off came up. I stopped and listened to my belly. It was feeling brave!
We turned off onto a bouncy backroad and so began today's adventure!

The Río Magdalena. The power of the river is phenomenal!

​

I passed through a friendly little village and soon came to a fast flowing river. The motorbikes passing me in both directions had been a sign that traffic was getting across the river and I spied not one but three ferries!
Now when I say ferry I'm referring to something different than most of us associate with the term.
There was a small one for pedestrians, motorbikes and me, a larger one for cars and a larger one again for trucks. Very basic and powered by outboard motors!
I didn't have to wait long and had a motorbike with two guys for company. The river was very fast sweeping us downriver before the engine got us slowly back to where we needed to be. I watched as a truck was loaded onto the big one. Two fifty horsepower engines to get it across. I had visions of them losing power and raft (because that's what it would be!) and truck being swept away!

On the Río Magdalena! This was a thrill! And I didn't get sick!

​

I love rivers and one of the reasons is that they're generally long and have character. The length allows us ríophiles to develop a relationship with them. And their character changes as they weave to the sea and a wandering bike tourist gets to witness these changes. So, this morning I got to check off a couple of things; I got to see the Magdalena when she was a bit younger than up north, I got to see "working" boats on her and best of all, I got to cross her on one of those boats! A much better day already!

The other side.......

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On the other side I set off through very green country filled with birdsong- where was this desert? The road, such as it was, was crap but I had expected that and was in no rush.

Mountains..... But where's the feckin' desert??

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I came to the village of La Victoria and found the little Park, away from the main street. I ate an orange in its calmness then doubled back to visit a museum. Of course, it was closed!
Not many stores were open and I couldn't find a coffee anywhere!
I headed out of town.

This is how the camera captured the light. A special photo methinks

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It took less than twenty minutes for the greenery to recede and for the landscape to open up.

At the closed museum. This happens to be the last photo of yet another travelling companion! 😊

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There were mountains in the distance and trees became scarcer. They were replaced with large cacti. In fact the whole landscape seemed to be levelling out and becoming lower. Then the green started thinning exposing more and more sand and rock.

Still green! Where's the feckin' desert?

A ford!

​

Such is how I entered the Tatacoa desert!

To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 797, Thursday, November 18, 2021, Brisas to Villavieja 28 km Total KM 14095
Min meters 361, Max Meters 439
Total Climb 493 Total Descent 431
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 34

Bouncing back to bliss Part 2


Despite it being a little after 9 am Gizmo was hitting 40C! There was no shade. Anywhere! This was the desert experience!

Hot! Hot! Hot!

​

The road was rock and gravel, washboard and holes. It was slow going but my belly was holding up ok.

The green was losing the battle for survival......

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The road rolled up and down giving me a good workout on the way up and demanding care in both directions. Traffic was practically non existent except for regular motorbikes. I'd a good amount of water and I sipped steadily.

Now I can see the desert!

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The landscape though, was stunning! And interesting. What I'd call cairns, small stacks of rocks, sculptures, almost, dotted the roadside then in some places there were hundreds of them!

Yep! That's desert alright!

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Of course, such a landscape fired up my Cowboy imagination and I was delighted to spy a lone horse way off in the distance.

The lone horse looking at me looking at him. I know I had no food in me and I can appreciate that the sun was pounding down on me but that horse was like a sign sent down by the Touring Gods

Who wouldn't want to explore that road?

Notice the cairns

Now, try to not notice the cairns!

Yep! I'm definitely in the desert!

Yesterday I could barely ride. Today wild horses couldn't have kept me from riding!

​

To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098