The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 782, Wednesday, November 04, 2021, Padua to Manizales (outskirts), 65km Total KM 13629
Min meters 2080, Max Meters 3692
Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048) Total Descent 1914
Min Temp 5 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp 14

I shoulda done some research!

Part Two

At times it seemed like the clouds were an aggressive invader overpowering the land. This is not a road for those with vertigo!

​

About 9am I pulled up to a busy roadside place in a little village for a second breakfast. I discussed my needs and we settled on eggs, an arepa and fried banana with a delicious coffee. Three pretty girls working and looking after me - it was a wonder I left at all!

There was always a splash of colour if I kept my eyes open

From then on the road improved too. My kerbs came back, there were lots of walls and barbed wire fences were well behind both. There was even a small shoulder that I could use.

That little road down there intrigued me. Where did it go? How could I get on it?
That's how good I was feeling at the time

​

The road was never straight, twisting and curling continuously. Trucks especially had a hard time often having to drive the cab on the wrong side to make sure the trailer stayed on the road.

The green from the previous photo could disappear within minutes

A section of roadworks meant that traffic tended to arrive in groups, just the way I like it.

I love this shot! It seems like the clouds are trying to push the mountain back. You can just make out my road ahead. Who wouldn't want to hop on and ride to the scene of the mountain/cloud battle?

I had birds chirping at me as I wandered ever upwards and the now usual sound of water falling down the little cliffs.

More colour!

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With traffic often absent for long stretches the only jarring noise was the clang when my handlebars hit a guardrail as I was parking up for another photo.
It was really very pleasant.

A patch of blue! And the sun coming out! Things were looking up!

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And then it became less so, sometime about noon. The rain that had threatened on and off all morning got off the fence and onto the road.

The blue patch was like a mirage disappearing in cloud and mist

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At first I resisted donning my jacket but as it got heavier out it came. The rain stayed for the next almost six hours. It ruined views, cooled me down and meant that the camera stayed in my pocket.

A full on cloud invasion!

The mighty Roccado. Conquering the Andes!

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 782, Wednesday, November 04, 2021, Padua to Manizales (outskirts), 65km Total KM 13629
Min meters 2080, Max Meters 3692
Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048) Total Descent 1914
Min Temp 5 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp 14

I shoulda done some research!

Part Three

I was still enjoying the cycling though and the views I could catch. But there's a cumulative effect that grinds and can slowly wear us down.
The road was fecking with me too. I needed to get to a height of 3678 meters and was counting up towards that. But the road dropped a few times. The first one, 100 meters down was fun, the second not so much and the third (near the end) was heartbreaking.

Before the rain. When I took this photo I didn't think it was going to rain! Ha! Dumbass!

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I was slowly running out of puff. As if to emphasise that, a car slowed down behind me, followed for a minute or so then slowly caught up with me. A hand thrust out the window had a phone and was making a video. No "Hello", no "Hey, can I make a video?" and they were bloody close.
"Where did you leave from?", was the very specific question hollered at me.
"Virginia, Estados Unidos", I replied.
Then the guy starts talking to the phone saying "This American......".
That really annoyed me so I yelled that I was from Ireland.
Now, I'm climbing a big hill on a loaded bike in the rain with a car too close to me and a phone in my face. My patience was very, very thin. They got what they wanted and drove off revealing a racing bike strapped to the back of the car. Feckin' roadies and their lack of social skills!

Taken before the first descent. I'd lose 100 meters but the surface was great and it was great fun flying down.

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To balance things out, though, later, about 11km from the top (and bazillions of meters!) Señor Empathy crossed over from the other side of the road on his motorbike as I straddled mine after taking a photo.
"Nearly there", he said. "Up, down, up but not too steep". At that stage I was very, very tired but it was clear across his face that he was trying to be supportive. I appreciated it very much but struggled to compile a coherent sentence. He wished me luck and we both went our separate ways.

Green! Green! GREEN! (And homemade fenceposts)

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There were more cyclists on the road today than the previous days. A girl ignored my cheery greeting early in the morning and again when she flew past me on the way down. Another guy was getting pushed up by someone on a motorcycle and one guy had his own support van.......
On one of my breaks at the side of the road a van pulled in ahead of me blasting out the most soppy early nineties ballads. I was keeping a wary eye on him and almost missed a cyclist coming from behind me. Mr. bad taste in music jogged beside him for a moment handing over a bottle of drink than something small that went straight in the rider's mouth. Then back in the van and off up again! I wish I had that service! Mind you, I was puffing in a ciggie at the time

Resting up in the rain. Water was tinkling down the cliff in front of the bike. Judging by the life growing on the cliffside it was a common occurrence

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Dogs were a familiar sight today but most were harmless and curious. Stopped at the side of the road it wasn't unusual for a dog to appear seemingly from nowhere. The braver ones came over to say hello, the others were very wary. I think the fact that I didn't give them a boot up the ass was taken as a sign of affection.
One chap tailed me for a while. He was very friendly with the most expressive brown eyes. When I stooped for a roadside lunch of bread and peanut butter he got half. I even shared my cookies. Not long after he disappeared letting me know how he saw me!

A little, musical waterfall

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The last section was cruel. From a height of 3550 meters (I was aiming for 3678) I dropped almost 200 meters. It was heartbreaking and I started to doubt that I'd make it. I started keeping my eyes open for a likely, discreet camping spot my heart dropping in my chest as I contemplated a cold, wet night, scarce water and the prospect of eaking up to the same. However, a camping spot was not likely on such a steep road.
By now I was in full raingear and feeling pretty miserable. I was tired and finding it hard to control the steering. I took to pulling in when traffic came up from behind. It was safer. The closer I got to the top the stronger the wind became too - of course it was a headwind. There were no birds to chirp me along (they'd disappeared with the rain) but for some reason I noticed their absence and missed them.

A hint I was too tired to pick up on.

​

From now on the battle (because that's what it felt like) was as much mental as physical.
Slowly, little by little, I made ground on the summit.

The countryside was opening up, the wind was picking up, Gizmo was counting up. The only things down were my energy and mood.

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When it arrived just after a tiny village with most places closed there was a tremendous sense of anti-climax. There was no joy, no sense of achievement, not even a lot of satisfaction.
It was pretty bleak, the wind was strong, the rain was pouring and I was exhausted.

All that effort for this?????

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Most importantly, I wasn't finished!

I needed a place to stay.
Manizales, about 30km away (downhill!) is a big, big town and I had a couple of likely spots picked out but hadn't made a reservation because I knew I'd be arriving late and that I'd rather find somewhere along the way and arrive fresh the next day. None of my usual sources had any info but I was trusting in Colombia to help me out.

After the obligatory photo I set off downhill and nearly cried (I did roar in frustration) because my sweeping, long descent was into the wind and I had to pedal to move. My legs were onto their union saying that this was not the deal!

A little later the descent got steeper and I could freewheel down. But I also froze at 5C.
At first, the views were nothing special but as I descended the road became an adventure with some sweeping fast turns and pretty impressive views. This side was very different. Smooth is my recollection of the landscape. Much less wild. I did see a beautiful rainbow through the rain but most of my energy was focused on survival. Well, maybe that's a bit of hyperbole, but I was tired and needed to concentrate.

It was still raining and I was shivering. Violent shivering spasms to be accurate.
I had to stop several times to get the blood to my extremities.
Small communities on the map were tiny in real life with no places to stay (wheras up to now most places were far larger than the maps suggested). Desperate to warm up I stopped at a fancy looking place but it was closed.
A brief climb warmed me up somewhat but I was soon descending again and getting close to Manizales.

Looks good, eh? Unfortunately that was behind me as I approached the summit. In front of me just rain

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I didn't take a single photo after the summit. In the wet with frozen hands in big gloves it was impossible. Besides, I was shivering so much I'd never have been able to keep the camera still long enough for a photo.

Spying a sign for a hotel in 1km I let out a cheer. I nearly passed it as it looked like a ruin, but pulled in. A very pleasant older lady told me that yes, she had a room but there was no water. Hmmmm. Cold and wet I really wanted a shower. I asked about wifi and she smiled as if to say "I'm supposed to tell you that we have it.... but it doesn't work". I thanked her for her honesty and asked if the water was out everywhere. I really, really wanted a hot shower! She told me that if I continued closer to town they'd have water. I made my excuses to leave but she wanted a chat so I filled her in on my journey and with her good wishes rejoined the road.

From the summit. Behind me, unfortunately

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Traffic was heavy, it was dark (the sun sets very quickly!) and there were roadworks. I didn't care. I flew. Until I saw a hotel sign.

Home.

The research I should have done?
Alto de Letras is the longest climb on the planet! Dumbass did it on a loaded bike!😀

View: https://youtu.be/WIdpuVGO5zY


Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 783, Thursday, November 04, 2021, Manizales (Outskirts) to Manizales (Centre), 13km Total KM 13641
Min meters 1895, Max Meters 2180
Total Climb 301 Total Descent 297
Min Temp22 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 29

The day after the Longest Climb defeated by a hill!

Last night after a hot shower (more of a roasting dribble) I had a simple meal of eggs, arepa and toast at the hotel. I was very tired yet a bit excited and very amused with myself.

I used the internet to read about the Alto de Letras and was highly amused at what I had stumbled upon.
It's a dream for a lot of cyclists to ride that road and I just stumbled upon it. Packages are offered from US$1600 per person! (There's a spa recovery day!)
Had I known about it in advance I may well have avoided it!
I know I did it over three days so for some it doesn't count but I couldn't care less!
If anything, it just reinforced the idea that chasing summits is not for me.
I took my time, I spent time (lots of time) to appreciate where I was and I got a real taste of where I was travelling through. Had I not seen the signs from Colombian Cycling I'd have had no idea I was on such an iconic road and would be blissfully unaware of any "extra" achievement.
I was surprised at myself for enjoying so much of it. The last part of the last day I did not enjoy.

I also booked a room in the city for the next two nights.

Manizales is well spread out, several suburbs spread through valleys and on hills. It is incredibly steep! I was in a shoulderless highway until I turned in (and up) to get to the centre

On waking up I was in no rush. I had taken note of the noon checkout time (I never pay attention to that) and intended to use most of it. I was on the edge of Manizales so it couldn't take too long to get to the hotel. I rolled over and went back to sleep.

The old part, the centre has many narrow streets (and a few highways). I got excited seeing that church in the distance. In reality, this was one of the better views of it!

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When I got up my belly wasn't good. I had a leisurely coffee and slowly packed up.
I plotted a car and a bike route into the city. Looking at the state of the road I'd arrived on in the dark yesterday I was impressed at my speed and a bit surprised that I'd arrived in one piece! It was well broken up!

I set off and had a long sweeping descent mixing with all kinds of traffic and dealing with roadworks. Manizales is a big, well spread out place and the roads were busy. With no safe spaces to stop there were few photos. There were more than a few random close passes (for Colombia) and I realised it's been a while since I dealt with such traffic. Two big dogs, one a Retriever and his Shepherd buddy were lunging at traffic and gave me a big scare, the retriever snapping at my ankle and barely missing - this on a busy four lane dual carriageway.

A different church but just as difficult to photograph

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My descent eventually turned to an ascent. Steep and slow. Osmand had me on a ring road but when I turned off it got even steeper. Yesterday I conquered the Alto de Letras today Manizales defeated me. I got off and pushed.

Some unusual art in the main Plaza. I stopped and stared, walked around to get different angles and perspectives but could find no beauty in it.

​

The bike route directed me into what looked like slums so I changed over to the car route - a similar neighbourhood but lots of traffic.
The closer I got to the centre and the hotel the steeper the streets became. Incredibly steep! I saw one other bicycle on my approach to the hotel! This is not a bike friendly town!

Oh, did I mention the traffic?

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It is not within my gift to describe the steepness of the streets approaching the centre. The streets are straight with traffic lights at each junction. My method was to wait for the traffic to go then, with an empty street, to weave over and back across the road. Even unladen I don't think I'd be riding these streets. An as yet unexperienced horror will be descending the same streets!
Lord knows what it's like in the wet!

An example of a typical street. Very steep. Narrow. One way.

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I eventually found the hotel, well located and got a ground floor room as requested. Roccado is in the room with me - the way I like it.

Just down from the hotel, a Police observation post. Reassuring!​

I took a quick wander to find my bearings and get a feel for the place. They say that Manizales is a friendly city and if I'm honest, I'm not seeing it. That's not to say it's unfriendly, it's just that I have been in very genuinely friendly places so I'm biased.

I have this habit of finding iconic churches in a state of disrepair!

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Overcome with tiredness I returned early to the hotel. In all fairness I'd had a tough day the day before. Better to explore the place properly when I'm well rested.

One of the more unusual representations of Símon Bolívar - naked and as a bird.

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Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

I had a wary impression of Manizales before I'd actually arrived. In looking for a decent place to stay I'd come across reviews of places that talked of security, bad neighbourhoods and hotels with stringent security precautions.

Street art is scarce

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Also, outside my hotel on the edge of the city was a homemade poster asking for information about a missing 15 year old boy. Such posters were common in México, so common I'm not sure I've mentioned them here, but it was a shock to see another. I find such posters to be very sad. Oftentimes the kids (for they are nearly always teenagers) have been abducted by criminals. They may have a drug debt (or a sibling does), they may be held for ransom, they may be set to work for criminals or they may just have annoyed some local hard man. In any case it can create an image.

Hola! Soy Mani

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If I didn't know some Spanish I could easily have assumed that Manizales translates to "The City of Traffic". It is pervasive and the effects are everywhere from the noise and the smells but most importantly, and I think sadly, on the architecture.
Manizales is a very frustrating place, architecturly speaking.
There are some amazing buildings here, mainly churches, cathedrals and basilicas (now that we know what one is!) and it is next nigh to impossible to take a decent photo because a road, or a highway, is running right past it. In fact, some seem like they are cut off from people on foot. To me, that is so strange. A staple of my navigation for years on a bike was to head for a steeple. It's normally a pretty straightforward process. Not here!

The white building is a museum, closed, of course! It's a useful reference to understand the angle of the streets here.

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The city seems compressed, squashed. It's noticable in the buildings but also in the small and disappointing parks where traffic is often buzzing around on all sides. Even getting to the park or Plaza can be a stessful experience crossing busy roads and there is usually minimal or no barriers, natural or otherwise, to separate the traffic from me once in.
A doggy playground I spotted was beside a busy road only meters from a busy junction. It's a brave person with a well trained dog that uses it. It was empty when I passed.

There are a lot of incredibly steep narrow streets too that make brilliant photographic opportunities. Mountains in the distance. Closer the suburbs (which may be little more than shacks), closer still the buildings along the street, various types servicing various needs in all kinds of repair and through the whole vista the slight sensation of vertigo as the street plummets downhill. I'm not in México anymore and trying to take a photo is dicing with death by yellow taxi!

This street is in Villa Maria. Steep down then steep back up!

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There are other perils with these steep streets.
Walking across can leave my ankles operating at very strange angles. Unless I want to keel over I keep my body upright and the ankles take the strain by tilting at strange, acute angles.
Then there's the more psychological peril of motorised transport, especially motorbikes, going up these hills at full revs only to jam on the brakes at the junction at the top. Scary!

One of the best known features of Manizales are the cable cars, a part of the public transport network. Friday they were one of the first things on my list.
There are two lines, one from where I was that connected to the main city transport hub, then another that linked that up with Villa Maria, one of the many suburbs of the city.
I bought my ticket (about €0,50) but couldn't get it to scan properly. A young Venezuelan chap behind helped me out by showing me where to scan it and we travelled down together, only the two of us in the car.

An aerial view of a pretty densely populated centre

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An aerial view is a very interesting view, especially of a city. Especially a hilly city like this one.
Photos don't do it justice taken, as they were, behind dirty perspex and lacking the sheer scale of the views.
Of more interest was the chat. Very difficult with the speed and accent of Venezuelan speech. In the country a couple of months he is another refugee from Venezuela (Colombia has issued over 1 million temporary visas for Venezuelans fleeing the chaos there not counting all the people who simply crossed unmarked borders during the pandemic).

Manizales: Expanding into the mountains

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He has no work, occasionally picking up work in a hotel on a day by day basis. To supplement that income he sells refuse sacks and sweets. There is no fixed price, people pay what they can. I'd put him at early twenties and find it difficult to comprehend what life must be like for him. Every day is about survival, about making money to eat. In these pandemic times I've made something of a virtue out of not making plans, of taking each day as it comes. His situation is so, so different.
He asked me about my trip but I felt uncomfortable talking about it - probably the first time ever. It seemed almost like I was flaunting my good fortune.

I rode in on that road.

​

The cable cars terminate at Villa Maria. It has a pretty little Plaza and not much else. It's located within a National Park and mountains are all around. There is, I believe, a hike that can be done but I didn't need any more climbing! More narrow streets with precipitous drops and rises, lots of busy shops and I was ready for a return trip on the cable cars after soaking up the Plaza atmosphere with a coffee.

Looking back towards the centre of Manizales from Villa Maria

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

There are quite a few churches here!

Wood is used a lot in the churches

The church in Villa Maria

The impossible to photograph properly church

And a close up......

Inside

The other impossible to photograph properly church. There's a 4 lane highway in front of it!

Inside left me cold

A brown Jesus!

Apparently, this is a copy of one in Antigua! (I read it on a sign)

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

Bakeries seem to be the beating heart of Colombian towns, villages and cities.
They're not like bakeries as I know them, selling far more than just bread and pastries. They sell yoghurt, milk and other dairy products, coffee, soft drinks, they'll often serve at least some kind of breakfast and they sell beer! In smaller places they can be attached to a particular service so you can have a coffee while your motorbike is being repaired or while they root around in the little hardware store for that thing you wanted.
Often, in front, on the street there will be some kind of hot oil cooker for cooking some of the breakfast foods. Passers by can pick up something straight from the fryer as they walk on by.

Any city that can deliver up views like this has to be a bit special

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The service is interesting to me. If I want to "dine in" I sit at a table and a waitress, invariably friendly and pleasantly informal, will be over in a flash. In an ideal world I'll tell her what I want and my order can be delivered by up to three colleagues; One with the coffee, one with the pastry and one with the cold drink. A smile each time.
The reality is that I have to wander the display cabinets asking questions. My questions are never (at least up to now) treated contemptuously. In fact, bakery señoritas are a great source of smiles! I make my order, pick a table and my order will be delivered.
A scribbled piece of paper either with my order or the cash total is placed on the table. Later, I'll present that to a separate cashier to pay.

Or this!

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All the world comes here during the day. Couples have breakfast before parting for the working day, businesspeople fuel up before a day of wheeling and dealing, farmers grab a coffee while their pickup is loaded or unloaded, older folk gather to check who's still alive and who's missing, entire families eat together sharing a large bottle of Coke.
There's clearly a difference in size and scale between the bigger towns and the villages but the process and the feeling is the same. A place for all the community all through the day. The staff seem to know everyone and interactions are rarely just transactional. On my second visit to the bakery across the road from my hotel I didn't have to say how I liked my coffee.
The one thing that surprised me the most is the booze! (I'm unsure if they sell anything stronger than beer).
Evening times, especially, they can be very busy with people chatting over a bottle or can of beer. Plastic cups are provided. Families with young kids have beers (adults) and soft drinks. I've seen big groups, presumably multi-generational get togethers slowly spread out and take over most of the floor space but in an organic fashion, not loud, not raucous, not aggressive.
Alternative drinking options can be few and far between.

The "Water Park", complete with rainbow! Very small and compact with fast moving traffic flowing on all sides

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The bars are little more than an empty room and beer crates. They are not large and the only concession to entertainment is a speaker or two pumping out traditional music.
Some may have gone a bit further with some fancy lighting and bigger speakers playing more modern music, a kind of "discotheque" vibe in relation to the traditional places. Whenever I see these places they are invariably empty. Of course, I may well be in bed before they come to life.
The touristy places have bars that I am more familiar with, filled with people I am more familiar with. I avoid those for exactly those reasons.
The bakeries with their mix of clientele, invariably smiley staff and my drug of choice (coffee) are more than enough for me.
A scientist, studying my movements in these foreign parts would conclude that I'm wasting time sitting in these places watching life going on all about me, that I should be out and about more marking off a checklist.
I disagree. As well as ascending to crazy heights on my bike I'm mining down into the soul of Colombia in these places.

Sunset in Chipre

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My next destination was to the suburb of Chipre, high on one side of the city that is famous for its sunsets. Or so my guidebook says!

But first, I had a sad task to undertake.
My Ecco shoes which I've had for so long they're a reminder of a past life are finally flithered beyond use. The sole of the left one is gone, worn away and now uncomfortable on the pedals. The right isn't much better. I need to replace them. Like my bandana they have been regular companions on many, many bike trips. Back when they were still good they were my off the bike wear, comfortable, breathable and light. They've walked along the Rhine, the Danube, the Alps. They've tipped along on Verona cobbles, dusty Camino roads and had been my evening footwear for a lot of this trip. Yes, I'm silly, but I get attached to things.
I used to have terrible problems with my feet and only Eccos gave any relief. My feet are young again but these are a last link to another time.
I bought some new shoes.

I also had a bit of housekeeping to do. Since I got my new phone I've been using the Guatemalan number for Whatsapp. I received a text to say that I needed to top up the credit or lose the number. There's a Dutch company Recharge DotCom that will let me top up the credit so back to the hotel, drop off my shoes and do that over the hotel wifi. Hopefully that's my WhatsApp sorted for a while.

There are some impressive views

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There's another thing to Manizales that I hesitate to put into the public domain but it's a part of my wanderings around the city.
Catholic schoolgirls and their uniforms! They were everywhere on Friday! The classic trope of check skirt, white kneesocks and a white blouse. Some of the skirts were knee length or a little below and some most certainly weren't! It's not like I was wandering around drooling but they were a part of the landscape. Later, their older sisters will be out in very similar outfits!

The walk to Chipre became a whole lot tougher when I went over painfully on my ankle. It was bound to happen and, to be honest, I'm surprised it hasn't happened sooner given my head swiveling style of wandering. The steep climbs, descents and very uneven footpaths certainly didn't help! I'd been proud of myself at quickly identifying the tendency for rectangular access holes in the paths to be missing their covers but it was a simple, albeit acutely angled, step that did me in. That's what I need in mountain country - a sore ankle!

From Chipre

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I took a long, wandering route to arrive in Chipre aling a pleasant walkway where people were setting up various food stalls. There *are pleasant views to the west, difficult to photograph because the sun is out.
As well as the views out here there is a coffee museum (yaaaaaaaay!) under, I believe, a monument to the Conquistadors.
I found the monument easily enough, a small park opposite a viewing platform but it seemed closed. A young local woman was also waiting to get in so I struck up a conversation to be told that it was open we just had to wait for someone with a key. There are worse people to be waiting with!

A young fella showed up with a key and I wandered upwards.
The monument in the form of a huge, vivid sculpture is very impressive. A guide was giving an explanation to a small group but I couldn't keep up.
It commemorates the arrival of the first (European) settlers and is in two parts - the agony and the ecstasy, the former representing the journey, the latter the arrival.
Having had a tough day myself recently I could tap in very easily to the agony (yes, I know my journey was nothing like theirs).
It makes no mention of the indigenous people who already lived here, something I found interesting in a relatively recent monument. (2002)
There's a little walk around the hill the monument is on and after sitting down for a while I had a horrible vision of being locked in so limped down quickly to the gate as the group were being let out.
The coffee museum? Closed, of course! What else should I have been expecting?

Ecstasy: Arriving atop the mountain to found Manizales

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I wandered over to the viewing platform for a coffee.

It was a bustling place, a line of food and drink carts lined up, some plastic chairs and permanent ones. People taking the air, enjoying the views and socialising. Very pleasant. And the views are pretty good too!

Agony: Getting up the mountain. The scale is huge and incorporates a hill in its design making it very hard to photograph. It's van excellently crafted piece of work and there is little doubt what it represents

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As the sun was sinking behind thick clouds I headed back towards the centre along a decent walkway and catching glimpses of the last light to my right. I'm still not used to how quickly the sun sets in these parts.
I noticed too that as the sun sank and tge temperature dropped that I became coated in a thin film of water.

More agony

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Back in the centre I headed to some landmarks sure to be impressed by their nighttime displays. I was sure I'd see statues, steeples and stained glass windows illuminated and glowing. Not a bit of it!

I grabbed a bite to eat and as I ate I had a thought. I can't remember the last time I've seen a McDonalds (or any of the usual suspects: Domino's, KFC, Burger King). I took out Google to discover that Manizales has two McDonald's (for over 500,000 people!) I haven't seen a Starbucks since I don't know when (but that's hardly a surprise in a country that knows a thing or two about coffee).

I took another wander around but by now my ankle was throbbing badly and I was limping heavily. I headed back to the hotel to figure out where next. My map is full of dots of places I want to visit and I get to play the child's game of join the dots to make a comprehensible picture!


Update:
I really fecked up my ankle!
I had a tennis ball under the skin and had no choice but to stay two extra days packing it with frozen corn!
I was going to wander north for some backroads but it's still not good so will need to take it easy. Besides, the news is full of reports of floodings and landslides.

Going to head off tomorrow and am dreading the first big hill!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Manizales to Santa Rosa de Cabal, 40km Total KM 13681
Min meters 1237, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 703 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 23

Now I know why nobody travels with me!!

How can it be that I roll into one place and think "Meh", then roll into another and feel so comfortable? But that's later.

After two days of doing feck all I'd decided that come hell or high water I was getting out of the ankle twisting town of Manizales. Yesterday the swelling in my ankle had reduced significantly if not the pain. I got up and tested myself crossing the road for my morning coffee. So far, so good. Down the road to a bank was trickier and more painful. Wait another day? No! Not today!

Crazy steep and yes, that's a drain running down the middle!

​

Back to the room, a hot shower, wrapped the ankle in a wet bandana (a very versatile piece of kit) and I set about packing up.
Outside I was horrified and I mean horrified to see rain. Not a drop of rain (that I know of) since I arrived and now it's pouring.
I wrote a few days ago of dreading the idea of descending these streets in the wet little realising that the Touring Gods are contrary creatures who clearly read this Travelogue! I know now!

And descend I had to do. I had a think and decided not to ride down. I set off walking, the idea being to test the ankle and if necessary return.
It wasn't easy, it wasn't swift and it sure wasn't graceful but I got down to the highway, climbed aboard and headed into the rain and mist.

Joining the main road! I'm telling you, Manizales on a bike is not for the faint of heart!

​

It wasn't all bad, though. There was no shoulder but traffic was light. I was going downhill so didn't have to worry about the ankle for a while. A few spins seemed to indicate that I'd manage but that was before having to put any grunt into it. Some climbing down the road would tell me more.

I knew that great views were being denied to me but what could I do? I've been spoilt for views lately. Besides, with only a rain gulley at the side of the road there was no safe place to stop.

Can one get a jolt just from the word café? I did!

​

I did stop on a long bridge for a photo because there was mist hanging over the nearby hills and I still haven't had enough of that!

Sometimes I do amuse myself! Pishing rain and I see some misty hills, what else to do except stop for a photo?

​

Then I continued. On the "Autopista del café" (I don't need to translate that one do I?)
The Autopista del café!! If ever a road was made for me! A split 4 laner there was no shoulder but traffic was light and I'd no problem taking the lane - this is Colombia after all! In fact, at a toll booth each lane for traffic had a sign asking drivers to be nice to cyclists!

I was losing a lot of height but wasn't really that bothered. I'd a short day planned and my main concerns were my ankle and the weather. The temperature was about 15C and if I didn't go too fast I wasn't going to freeze.

Today's río and the other carriageway

​

The rain lightened imperceptibly and incrementally until it finally stopped although the sky remained ominous and released a few drops every now and then to remind me who was boss. So it was with a dry sky that I started the ascent to Chinchina.

​

I turned off the highway for the last 5kms up to the town. A steep up!
Chinchina is famous (I believe) for having the world's largest cup of coffee! (I think the largest coffee cup might be more accurate and lead to less disappointed bike tourists!).

Believe it or not there is a swift but small río gushing down there. The life and vegetation that springs up around a río is a joy to behold

​

I navigated to the Plaza, located this coffee cup and instantly realised why I am destined to tour alone for ever more!

The world's biggest coffee cup! Wrapped in plastic!

​

I could only laugh and laugh I did, loudly and from the belly. I think I may have disturbed a few locals. A lap of the Plaza and it was coffee time! A delicious coffee from a trailer and a bit of people watching. It wasn't the hidden cup but the place didn't speak to me at all. The coffee was good, the girl was friendly and smiley but I wasn't feeling much at all.
By rights I should have been happy with myself - out of Manizales in the rain, the ankle was ok and I'd arrived with lots of time to explore. But there was nothing down there or over there that called out to me.
Out with Osmand, a new route to Gizmo and off I went!

Beside the Plaza were stone tables with chessboards. Mani's more of a Ludo tiger

​

There was a backroad option but I had some climbing in my future and I thought discretion the better part of valour in this case. I took some back streets back down to the Coffee Highway.

​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Manizales to Santa Rosa de Cabal, 40km Total KM 13681
Min meters 1237, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 703 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 23

Part 2

Somewhere since I had left it, the highway had managed to lose one of its carriageways, a rather careless thing to do. It had, however, found a pretty decent shoulder so I was probably better off. I now had more freedom to stop. And I did.

Coffee Country!

​

The Autopista del café is not just some marketing shtick stuck on a sign. It's not so described to put a bit of fizz in a random bike tourist. The road goes through coffee country and for this coffee lover it was wonderful!

Marketing shtick

​

Coffee country isn't just coffee plants. It's lots of plants. In Honduras, I'd learned that larger trees are often planted with coffee plants to provide a canopy that protects the coffee. Here, in this part of Colombia they use banana trees! There's something about banana trees that bring out the excited child in me! They're exotic! Tropical! A very obvious and distinct sign that I'm a long way from home!

I'm a little disappointed at how the photos turned out

​

The countryside is rolling hills and they're filled with plants and life. There is a wonderful, wild disorder to the scene with few "fields", just plants everywhere and the odd, random house thrown in for good measure. It's beautifully Latin - chaos that just works.

Chaos that works!

​

I was totally charmed! I'm riding my bike in coffee country! On the Autopista del café no less! Yet another (vague) concept meeting reality moment and the reality far, far exceeding anything I could have expected. I'm not sure that many people would feel the same way as my caffeine addicted self but it was thrilling!

I was on a main road with regular traffic but I only had eyes for the countryside

​

The cycling was going fine. I'd a longish climb, then rolling hills before a final little ascent. I caught myself looking at Gizmo and thinking "150 meters to go" and having a little giggle. After the Alto de Letras that's nothing!

The rolling section was probably the best part as I rose and fell between the hills. Sometimes the views extended further away but I only had eyes for the coffee (and banana!) plants.

The young plants have some kind of order but the countryside is untamed, rolling, rising and falling as it likes

​

For a good chunk of the day I'd also been seeing a different type of tree with thin branches and wide, light, fernlike leaves. They were normally in groups and made a pretty vivid impression. More things to charm me! I eventually discovered they're Bamboo trees! Useful and very pretty!

A bit of everything! It's not particularly clear in the gloomy photo but the bunches of bamboo trees struck me as being like someone had fired bright green rockets at the hillside and the light green bamboo trees were the explosions when they impacted.

​

My ankle was coping admirably with the effort of climbing and I was thoroughly enjoying the journey. I was almost a little sad when I turned off to Santa Rosa de Cabal and started the long (very long) approach to the Plaza. I passed at least three churches along the way so long was the approach. Streets narrowed as I got closer and traffic slowed.

There's no order (that I can see) to the landscape. I'm enjoying the disorder!

​

I'd barely arrived when I was engaged in conversation by a local. Now this is a friendly place! I got a coffee (€0,13!) from a street vendor and plonked myself on one of the fanciest benches I've seen in a while. But I couldn't stay sitting! I had to look. See. Absorb. That requires standing and walking, sore ankle or no.

Coffee country - as stimulating as its product!

​

It's a delightful little place, a wide open Plaza, well manicured, if simple, vegetation and wonderfully big, bright bird sculptures. The only trees were around the edges, tall pine trees, not something I normally like but here it just works.

I was home!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal,

I've said it before and I'll say it again - I feel very comfortable in small town Colombia, and to be accurate, Santa Rosa isn't small, but it has that small town feeling.

Comfy in the Plaza

​

The chap who sold me my coffee was hospitality defined. I was pleased to see a long queue form at his little stand later and not get much smaller, in contrast to a fancier coffee set up incorporated into a jeep. When I walked past the jeep (no customers) I was ignored. Sometimes it's the simple things.

The Plaza has a few of these - bright metal statues of birds. Different and they bring life to the open Plaza

​

The bike parked, walking up and down along the Plaza, sipping my coffee was a pleasure. I met two young people and how can I put this.... I can't remember the guy's name but I'll probably never forget hers!
I may have misunderstood that he was on a bike from Bogotá to Ecuador for six months (even I don't go that slow!) It's probably more likely that he's going to go on a bike ride to Ecuador in six months. What can I say, I was a tad distracted ,😊

A very tiny church that I passed on the long entry to to town. (I had to wait ages for someone to walk by for a bit of scale!)

​

I had no accommodation organised and didn't feel in the slightest bit stressed about that. I call it the "Colombian feeling" - everything will work out.
A few drops of rain and I got my ass into gear though. I'm comfortable not dumb!

It's a long town, streets stretching away in all directions

​

Booking had mega expensive places and Google had lots. Choosing a hostel at random as a starting point I set off pushing the bike - the best way to see everything. Arriving at the hostel it looked closed and when no-one answered the door I assumed it was. Just across the road was a small hotel that looked sufficiently cheap. A very pleasant lady (and her equally pleasant and friendly daughter) checked me in and put Roccado away safely. It's nothing to write home about but they're friendly, the wifi is good and the water in the shower is piping!

The Church, nope, the Basilica!

​

A quick shower and off out to explore.
Santa Rosa is long - in every direction. Reasonably flat, the streets stretch out in each direction. It's quite big but with the narrow streets, the pleasant, friendly Plaza it does a very good impression of a busy much smaller place.
Historically, it's wealth came from coffee and nowadays it does a steady line in tourism. On a November Monday evening that doesn't bother me.

There's a lot of wood in these churches!

​

There's really not much to the place if the trendy coffee places and the pub (an English pub with the moniker Señor Cock!) can be ignored - something I'm quite adept at. With lots of shops and a large municipal market it's like a lot of other places but there's something unquantifiable that I like. Something in the air.

I'm glad I pushed on.

Stained glass representing the "Stations of the Cross"

​

I found a Mexican restaurant for dinner. I hesitated before going up the stairs for fear that I'd be disappointed. It looked like a themed Mexican restaurant that could be seen anywhere - except México!
It had knives and forks and glasses and the food was served on proper plates with ne'er a plastic bag to be seen so it failed in the authenticity stakes!

I spent so long looking at the menu I was afraid they were going to close! It was like meeting old friends after an absence of way too long. I couldn't choose! In the end I went for a combo platter - a little of everything. It arrived suspiciously quickly and was ok. Only ok. There were some fancy sauces served with it (in fancy little dishes, not a repurposed butter tub anywhere!) which were very good, but I hadn't come across them in México. The dishes themselves lacked flavour and heat.
A sad thought: This is probably my future with Méxican food - pale, bland imitations.
They did have a Día de Muertos altar, though.
Confession time. A couple of weeks ago I spotted a "Catarina" skull decoration in a shop window and had real pangs. It was about a week before the actual Día de Muertos and I let myself dream for a while of parking the bike and catching a plane to CDMX. Ha! Dumbass! You've flown enough for a while!
My Facebook started to fill up with pictures as well. I thought I was finished with the Día de Muertos but I guess not. It's a good thing to have a dream, no?

Service was very unMexican - there wasn't a smile at all.

No motorised cars here!! Pile as many kids as possible into a home made car and an aul' fella (he also had a young helper) will push you around the Plaza, cleverly steering from behind. I loved it!!

​

The bill when I got it had a "suggested tip" added on, something I dislike intensely. Especially since there was nothing done that merited a tip. When I tipped my pleasant coffee girl this afternoon I had to explain what I was doing. Ditto my coffee man in the park. Looking closer at the bill it actually says something like "This is not your bill, it is an approximation of your bill". For such bland food I'd a weird taste in my mouth leaving.

Humming bird

​

By now it was cold. I took another stroll around. A man walking his Shepherd pup in the Plaza, the little fella darting hither and tither having great fun. A bunch of young fellas hanging around outside a Pizza joint started running down the street so suddenly I looked for the cops. As it turned out they were chasing a truck to jump on a ledge at the back and get a lift to wherever it was going!


I saw more people sleeping rough since I'd arrived than I have in quite a while. In such a prosperous place it seemed more significant.

With nothing else to see I slowly wandered home. And treated myself to some music on YouTube. Good wifi!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 788, Tuesday, November 09, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Alcalá, 68 km Total KM 13749
Min meters 955, Max Meters 1783
Total Climb 894 Total Descent 1334
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 25

No room at the Inn!

I had a late night last night, completely unintentionally. The wifi was excellent and I found myself playing YouTube video after YouTube video. It started with Mary Chapin Carpenter, progressed to Lucinda Williams and finished with Leonard Cohen. I went to sleep a very happy chappy.

There were no great intentions of heading off early, Santa Rosa deserved a bit more time. I got up, showered (hot!) and went on a coffee quest. Easily satisfied! I ate at a bakery enjoying an omelette and then witnessed some kind of protest with speakers blasting themselves through amps to a very small crowd. I couldn't make head nor tail of it but one female speaker was very agitated. It was only a few months ago that there were riots over Covid restrictions here.

Getting out of town involved a crazy drop then a brutal climb but look at the view I got!

​

I toddled slowly back to the hotel and got organised. My ankle was sore and actually had been last night too. Too warm to get under the covers my feet tended to hang off the end of the bed and that wasn't good for the ankle. There's some big climbing down the road so I'll need to keep an eye on it and not force anything.

Leaving town a man saw me and he stopped walking and just stared at me. There was nothing remotely threatening because it was clear, even through a facemask, that he was beaming if not at me specifically at the concept of an adventure on a bike. I gave him a big wave and a cheery greeting his happiness transferring over to me.

That's the Coffee Highway - I wasn't taking it today

​

Despite a lot of heavy rain through the night there were no obvious signs of it. The rain is causing problems according to the news and Google keeps throwing up landslide warnings! I'd one last trip by the Plaza and headed down then up out of town.

Cartago was where I was headed, about 40km away and most of that downhill. Or so I thought! A threatening sky set the mood but the rain was to threaten then hold off for a lot of the day.

This was my road. Two lanes but with a shoulder. Very pleasant cycling

​

I was taking a different road today than yesterday. Ha! I get all excited about the Coffee Highway one day then promptly turn off it the next! I ain't ever satisfied!
Truthfully, I was trying to avoid Pereira, a pretty big city. Tim Tower had ridden past it (some years ago now) and used the word "scary" to describe the traffic. Tim's not a man that uses hyperbole and that one word was enough to encourage me to look at alternatives.

Just look at all that greenery!

​

There was traffic, and lots of it at times, and I did get close to Pereira but I had no problems. Like yesterday, when the road was two lanes I took the lane, when only one they laid on a shoulder for me. Can't complain about that!

Split highway, no (usable) shoulder and lots of traffic. In Colombia that's not a problem!

​

I was disturbed though when an articulated truck with a flatbed trailer passed me with a young fella moving around trying to make himself comfortable behind some pallets. Whether the driver knew he was there or not I know not.

Baby coffee planted on the hillside. It seems to be a robust plant and altitude seems to be the most significant determinant of whether it thrives or not

​

There were a few sharp climbs to get out of the way but then I was descending. And fast! The road wasn't in as good nick as yesterday but still pretty decent. There were some amazingly sharp and steep switchbacks to add to the fun. And water! It may not have been raining but many times today I encountered little streams running across the road. There is a lot of man made irrigation on the hills to funnel water into controlled channels but sometimes things get blocked up.

Despite the wildness of all the trees there are still cultivated areas up high. Remember, pretty much all the work around here is done by hand! It's not unusual to see motorbikes zipping along the road with tools attached, then later to see a lone motorbike parked up in the middle of nowhere. Someone is tending to a crop.

​

I met Marcelo when I had pulled in for a photo. We had a conversation that felt a bit more like an interrogation. He'd been cycling with a buddy and after he left me had obviously told his friend about me because when I set off again they were waiting for me down the road and flagged me down. This time was more like a proper conversation. They wanted to buy me a beer but I declined at that hour of the morning. They were either impresssed or appalled at my baggage but when I casually dropped into the conversation that I'd conquered the Alto de Letras I acquired hero status! And yes, I did tell them I had done it over three days!
Having some Spanish is really great in these situations. I can have a normal chat, make jokes, receive information (a warning about further down the road) and, I have to say it, enjoy the compliments that come my way.
There is something about a long bike trip that is just so inspiring for a lot of people. I laugh off suggestions that I'm super fit, brave or possess any other rare quality. The guys were obsessed with the weight I carry but the things I carry I either need or they help me to be comfortable and to enjoy the trip.

The road into Cartago. Not bad at all!

​

Cartago is a big town and the approach is busy but on my shoulder I was fine. I didn't know what to expect but getting close to the centre I passed, what for me, is a real church.

What a beautiful, old, simple church! Unfortunately there was no way of getting in! The Catholic Church is known for not having an exit option - this one had no way in!

​

The Park in the centre charmed me so much that I did two laps of it. Full of greenery and people with lots of coffee vendors it was a real meeting place. I had a coffee and decided to stay. There was no church here at the Park but I could see a tall, gleaming, white steeple down the road. Accommodation options were expensive but I'd spied a "Residencia", normally cheap rooms. Any of the cheaper hotels were all upstairs and I'd prefer to avoid those with my ankle.

Today's río - fast and furious!

​

I relaxed and let Cartago wash over me from my vantage point in the Plaza over a couple of coffees.

I rolled around to the Residencia (great location) and got a shock when the woman there wouldn't take me! I had too much gear! Uh oh! I decided to head down to the big spire (A cathedral as it turned out) only to feel cheated! A very impressive building, but nothing of a church about it and the spire was totally separate. I did a lap around the centre seeing lots of hotels but all upstairs. Getting up isn't the problem, it's carrying the bike down the next morning that worries me.

Oh well. Time to move on!

To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 788, Tuesday, November 09, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Alcalá, 68 km Total KM 13749
Min meters 955, Max Meters 1783
Total Climb 894 Total Descent 1334
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 25

No room at the Inn!

Part Two

I got out of Cartago and immediately started a big climb. I'd have about 500 meters of climbing split between two each of about 250m.
Half way up I had a look at the time and thought I might have left it a bit late.

This is the Cathedral in Cartago, difficult to photograph because it faces onto a narrow street. I couldn't imagine a building more unsuited to honour a carpenter's son and it left me cold. Even if the doors were wide open I don't think I'd have bothered looking.

​

My destination was Alcalá, a tiny town on the map that had at least one place to stay.
Traffic was much, much less and the road was ok. Views were frustrating because there was invariably something in the way, either trees or small hills or little roadside cliffs.
In fact, with so many cliffs of just earth it was easy to understand why there are so many landslide warnings in these parts. Back on the main road I had passed a big warning light (off) that I eventually figured out was an early warning for landslides! There were some wonderful trees though and I often got to cycle under atmospheric canopies of trees.

The spire of the Cathedral, separate from the main building. I felt a little cheated having seen it from a long way away. But then I saw the Cathedral itself and figured if I was the spire I'd want distance between the monstrosity and myself too!

​

I was surprised at myself and the progress I was making. The road levelled off after the first climb then dropped most of the meters that I'd need to climb again. Then slowly upwards.

The Plaza in Cartago, the beating heart of the city, beating strongly with lots of trees and people. A very pleasant, charming place.

​

This is clearly a touristy road. There were a lot of roadside food places, although most were closed as I passed. One or two expensive farm hotels too. With a little time pressure off I could relax a bit so I did. After the climb it was more level but a gentle gradient upwards.

Views were few but the landscape was pleasant and interesting. Truthfully, with little cliffs and interesting trees and bushes along the road I didn't think I was missing too much

​

As I was approaching the little Plaza riding in traffic a man took one look at me and broke into a huge beaming smile! His poor wife or girlfriend bore the brunt of his enthusiasm as he pounded on her shoulder to draw her attention to me. She did not look as enthusiastic!

With height comes perspective!

​

I arrived in the centre of the little town of Alcalá and just Wow!
There is a spectacular tree (Salman is its name) in the Plaza in front of the church. A local, seeing my reaction came over to tell me about it! At just over 100 years old it is a monster! A beautiful, impressive monster!

Another río, powerful and raging it was carrying lots of tree trunks and other debris

​

I dawdled and wandered around it admiring it from every angle. I'm sure a few locals were bemused. Around the base of the tree is a wall painted with representations of local birds with a small bit of info. I love how these things are done for kids - in my mind it's always for kids, of any age.
Opposite, the municipal buildings are boring and functional in design - but certainly not in colour! Lots of bright colours make it a very interesting, attractive and pleasant place.

More sedate water!

​

I saw an expensive looking Apart hotel on a corner but wandered around to a hostal and got a family room for a cheap price - I was the only guest. Run by a couple originally from Bogotá it's a step up in standards at a reduction in cost. But the couple! Oh lord did they talk! Well, to be fair, he did. Constantly asking questions, not waiting for an answer and diving in again. It was exhausting!
I made some excuses and popped out to go back to the Plaza for my traditional coffee having to fight off the offer to stay in for a coffee.
I don't mean to be ungrateful but I have things I like to do and a coffee at the Plaza is one.

There were some views!

​

Dark now, I enjoyed the calm. There's not much else in the town itself other than shops. I wandered back to the hostal for a hot shower and went out to buy things to cook. In the supermarket I could find nothing to tickle my tastebuds so bought breakfast instead and had some chicken and pastries.

The mighty, mighty Salman!

​

Then back to a very comfy bed! I was very tired!

Sometimes the road is so interesting, so atmospheric I don't miss the views

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 789, Wednesday, November 10, 2021, Alcalá to Filandia, 25 km Total KM 13774
Min meters 1236, Max Meters 1940
Total Climb 881 Total Descent 210
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Café y Leche

I was in no rush getting up and as soon as I did I was back in the constant questioning zone. It became annoying when my answers were ignored and I'd have to repeat myself later for a different question. There was no malice but it was exhausting. My breakfast was ruined, only eating a small amount of granola and not even bothering to cook the eggs I had bought. No peace! No appetite!

Once on the road for some reason I forgot all the petty annoyances of the morning. I can't for the life of me figure out why

​

He was very surprised that I didn't have a wife nor children. Did he really think I'd be able to travel for two years if I did??
It's a common question though. Some people, mainly younger men, see it as almost the perfect condition - free and on the road.
The fact is people seem to settle down young here. Young women, not much older than girls often have babies in tow. I guess the fact of a guy getting close to 50 without those ties is unusual, never mind the fact that he's on an old bike!

He even brought out his own carbon MTB wanting me to weigh it. Yes, I know it's lighter than mine. I was horrified at the thought that he might want to join me!
I packed up and got away free and clear!

The approach to Quimbaya

​

For a town that has a special coffee status there was precious little coffee on the road as I left. It was cattle country, dairy by the looks of things. Coffee and milk - a pretty good combination. There were, however, lots of trees and I like those too!

I was heading towards Quimbaya only a few kms down the road. What seemed relatively flat on Gizmo was actually a lot of up and down. A decent road, reasonable traffic and pleasant scenery all added up to an enjoyable ride. At Quimbaya I'd make a decision on where to go. The outside option was to continue in the road to a coffee themed amusement park. I do like my amusement parks but on my own? I'm not so sure. And there'd be issues parking Roccado.

My apprehension of motorbikes has abated but never died so when a motorbike slowed down coming up behind me I moved into alert mode. It was a girl and between the noise of her bike and her helmet I couldn't understand what she was saying. Having conversations between moving traffic is, apparently, common in Colombia!
With no hesitation she pulled in to talk properly, her smile beaming through her helmet. She'd seen me in Chinchina on Monday and was impressed with my progress. She recognised the bike immediately - surprisingly describing it as the blue and yellow bike, not the bike with all the baggage! She just wanted to congratulate me and wish me a good journey!

Later, on the outskirts of Quimbaya another chica* on a motorbike pulled me over. Perhaps I'm becoming irresistible to the local señoritas! Alas, no. She just wanted to know if I'd passed any Police on my way! It's the second time this has happened. I think there's a new compulsory insurance required and that the motorbikes are slow to acquire it.

*Chica (or the masculine chico is not (as far as I'm aware) anything on a par with "chick". Climb off the high horses I'm not a sexist pig (at least based on that sentence )

Quimbaya started off a bit rough but by the time I got to the Plaza I looked down to check that I still had my shorts on - the place could have charmed the pants off me!
A delightful Plaza with lots of tall trees, lots of colour, lots of people was one aspect. A modern church that actually looked good was another. The friendly, relaxed atmosphere was the final component. I could have stayed but it was only 11 am. I did a couple of laps of the Plaza and discovered a series of "local hero" displays. A photo with a description of a local character, their history and their contribution to the town. I was enthralled. From the shoe shine guy to an Athletics coach, a blow-in photographer to a lady making and selling artesenal crafts.
Local heroes! What a simple, good and cynicism free exercise!

Quimbaya; The church, a pedestrian street and a local hero. A delightful, charming town it would have been so, so easy to stay.

​

I got a bite to eat and headed on. A Theme park wasn't on the menu after that. I wanted more small town experiences.

Next up, via a smaller road was Filandia (no, I'm not missing an "n").
The road wasted no time in challenging me with a hefty double figure gradient. I'd about 700 meters to climb but these numbers aren't fazing me at the moment.

Wandering through such pleasant countryside I was really enjoying myself despite all the climbing

​

For a small road it put a big smile on my face. At times it was brutally tough but never unpleasant. It simultaneously kicked my ass and with vegetation trying to take over the narrow road it gave me the closest thing to a hug that a road can give. Bright, cheerful buildings along the road dropped random explosions of colour into the mix and often vivid plants burst out of all the green. I was thoroughly enjoying myself, humming away as I laboured up, singing when it levelled off, so much so that I forgot the reason I was here.

No words

​

Then the road reminded me in spectacular style. Out of nowhere, it seemed, the road started running high up along a river valley, sheer, clay cliffs covered in vegetation to my right, a steep drop filled with all kinds of trees and plants, including coffee, lots and lots of coffee, to my left.
The road even laid on a crash barrier for me to stop and rest.
Looking now the pictures can only give a glimpse of what I saw.

The road is running along the right, twisting and turning to follow the valley. The valley itself is just full of colour, life and coffee. As pictures go this is pretty crap but as feelings go this was a fantastic feeling. Traffic was scarce so I could easily believe I was alone, in a rural valley far, far away from the big, bad world. And coffee! Lots and lots of coffee!

​

There was a total lack of order to this valley which I found incredibly interesting because it was full of coffee plants - that didn't happen by accident.
The variety of plants, of greens, of life was verging on overpowering. Every scene was full of life - all different kinds of life.
Then there was the road itself, following the twists of the valley that just struck me as so ..... romantic. A little, twisty road through the coffee!
Best of all, the coffee was right there - I could put my hand out and touch it.
I've no idea why this area is hitting all the spots but it really, really is!

Just picking any area at random and paying a bit of attention I was blown away by the depth and variety of plant life.

​

I was in no rush here. I walked up and down the road soaking it all up. Traffic, the little there was, was very respectful, generally friendly and often enthusiastically so. I'm convinced that people respond enthusiastically to an obvious outsider enjoying their "place".

Heading off again I left my magical coffee valley (yes, it's mine!) and returned to more conventional countryside. In these parts "conventional countryside" means banana trees (and some Palm ones too!).
I am spoilt!

Conventional countryside!

​

The Touring Gods have ways of keeping my self obsession in check. Lots of ways. Today they chose a simple one - rain, and lots of it!

At first I tried to power through but that wasn't working well. A wind had come from nowhere too and wasn't helping much. Yesterday in the dry I had little rivers on the road so today I had rivers in full flood! The ones running across the road are fine, the ones running down the road not so much. They actually have little waves and as I slowly laboured uphill the wave motion could become very disorienting if I looked at it too long.
Then there's passing traffic and the spray they generate through these little rivers! There's just no staying dry!
Twice my hopes were raised of some shelter when I saw a tall gate with a roof but each time the space was occupied with motorcyclists!
I eventually found an unoccupied one and passed a very dull 40 minutes or so until the sky brightened.

Setting off again, still raining, but lightly, I could be forgiven for thinking that the worst was over. The worst was over but the entertainment wasn't!
Directly in front of me there was a blinding flash of lightning and while I was still reeling there was an almighty crash of thunder.
Thunder rolls is the normal phraseology but not in these parts. Yes, it can roll, the sound imitating rocks rolling down a hill and slowly fading away, but not today!
"Crash" doesn't do justice to the scale, volume and suggestion of destruction that this thunder demands. It's quite thrilling, actually!
But it does raise the question - just what the hell is a bike tourist supposed to do in a thunderstorm? Damned if I know!

On one hairpin bend the entire cliff had been decorated. I'm clearly in Tourist Country but in a car there is no place to stop. Me? I stop where I want

​

The climbing to Filandia had been very tough. It wasn't a constant climb, there were times when it levelled off giving me a break and even a few short descents. The problem was that the meters were regained very steeply. 1900 meters was my target and the descents (and loss of meters) didn't bother me at all. Thank you Alto de Letras!

The approach to Filandia had me starting to think that I should have stayed in Quimbaya but that went away when I pulled into a very pleasant, very bright Plaza. I was busy congratulating myself when the Touring Gods tut tutted, asked themselves if I'll ever learn and turned on the taps again!

I found shelter under a tree, bought a coffee and tried to look on the bright side.

Up high and with lighter rain I could see again!

​

My introduction to Maria was a bit confusing because she took me for a German! Her logic, for which I mocked her mercilessly, was that only Germans do things like ride bikes in far away places! She won't make that mistake in a hurry again!
She's a student from Berlin studying here having had to return to Germany during the Pandemic. A German student studying in Colombia through English! Interesting!

She gave me a tip on a hostel on the edge of town so when we parted ways I headed out there. Basic enough but with great views over the valley.

Dark now, I had a shower, threw on some warm clothes and set off to explore the town. My down jacket is suddenly getting a lot of use.

The town didn't do a lot for me but that's probably down to me, not the town. A bright, colourful town should be seen in daylight and preferably without rain.
It also helps to be able to walk around comfortably and my ankle wasn't cooperating with that.
I got a bite to eat and wandered back to the hostal. I was home about five minutes when the heavens opened. I think I had enough rain for the day. It was surprisingly cold so I snuggled up in bed.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 789, Wednesday, November 10, 2021, Filandia

On the approach to Filandia. Clearly coffee is a big deal!

The church

This guy appeared to be making a music video. He was singing unaccompanied while someone recorded him with a phone. The two dancing girls were very good!

Street Art

An interesting ceiling in a tea room. A tea room in coffee country!!!!

The Plaza in better weather (I keep referring to Plazas but to the locals they are parks)

Typical buildings in these parts, brightly coloured and lots of balconies

Sometimes the colour schemes can be very detailed

Very typical; Public transport Jeeps lined up waiting for passengers.

While there may be a long approach to the town hills, mountains and the countryside are never far away

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

​

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Filandia to Salento, 21 km Total KM 13795
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 3137
Total Climb 554 Total Descent 462
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 21

From a road with purpose to one with soul

Here's the thing with an immersively enthralling journey - the destination is bound to suffer!

I got up, packed up and rolled back up into the town. I wanted to spend a bit of time in it when it was neither dark nor raining. As pretty as the town is I felt it lacked something. I had been really, really impressed with the "Local Hero" posters in Quimbaya yesterday. They spoke to a beating heart in the town, a heart of respect and compassion. I was struggling to find the beating heart in Filandia, but my arrival had been less than optimum and my wanderings these days are limited by my ankle - still annoyingly painful.
I do like the bright, painted buildings but I'm unsure if they're traditional or done for the tourists. I had some breakfast on the Plaza and watched the town go about its early morning business. Then I set off.

A decent, pleasant road but one where the traffic had a purpose. Slightly less friendly than other roads

​

The road out of town dropped scarily, then levelled off (by Latin standards). It would be rising soon enough!
This was a road to nowhere, linking up as it was with the Coffee Highway either to Armenia or Pereira. For that reason I concluded that the traffic drove with purpose, or a slight less consideration than yesterday.
While the road surface could be tricky the countryside was pleasant and became a whole lot more interesting when I entered a "Biological corridor" complete with warnings about monkeys and snakes!

You have my permission to copy this photo to save or print out for those days that you're bored on a bike! A snake warning wipes away that boredom!

​

I have discovered the way to make even the most boring, dull and uninspirational bike ride more interesting - stick a snake warning sign at the start! My day was far from boring, dull and uninspirational but that snake sign stuck in my head until I arrived and kept me on my toes (literally!) all day long!

It didn't take too long for the climbing to kick in so I kicked back and relaxed. For some reason since the Alto de Letras neither Gizmo nor Osmand are scaring the crap out of me!
Like yesterday there were some brutally steep sections but also more level ones.
I rejoined the Coffee Highway and continued to climb although now I had company in the form of a lot of cyclists.
Having stopped near the top for a photo I was bemused to see a cyclist behind me stand on the pedals, overtake me with zero response to my cheerful greeting only to plonk back down in front of me and actually slow me down! All this about 100 meters from the top!

A big coffee cup! I can only be on the Coffee Highway again!

​

I pulled in for a coffee and a ball of fried dough then wrapped up for the descent. I was going to drop down for a while then leave the coffee highway again for the run down then up, up, up to Salento, another coffee village.

Those random silver trees in the distance enthralled me! I crossed 4 lanes of traffic climbing over the central median to take this shot. I have no idea what they are but there's something wonderful about the randomness of their dispersal and magical about their colour. In real life it's a real Wow! moment

​

I took the slightly awkward turn off and entered another world. Quite literally! It wasn't even like the road leaving Filandia though if you looked at it on Google Streetview you'd struggle to tell the difference in terms of size or quality.
This road had a soul! It was tangible and all around. There were sights, sounds and smells that hit me as soon as I turned onto it that stayed the whole way to Salento.

From the Coffee Highway to the Soulway

​

Of course it helped that my introduction was downhill and I met a sign warning me of wild animals crossing. Just words, no pictures - a license for my imagination to fire up!
The sky was a threatening, angry, dull grey as it had been for most of the day but something told me that it wasn't going to rain on this road. The Touring Gods aren't that pernicious!

There was a huge mix of trees all around, all wet and damp and alive, with lots of wonderfully silver coloured trees that put me in mind of the yellow ones of a few weeks ago that were little explosions of colour.

Those silver trees give me goosebumps!

​

But best of all were the giant ferns! Huge, wild and gripping tenaciously to the sides of roadside cliffs. In the land of coffee, of palm and banana trees I'm suddenly thrilled and excited by ferns!
Stopping to take photos I got more evidence of the soul of the road - traffic with much less of a purpose. Lots of space given, lots of waves and smiles as I negotiated the soft, damp (and snake infested!) roadside trying to get a few shots.

Giant, mutant ferns! I can't possibly begin to understand why they thrilled me so much and to be honest I don't really care! I just know that they do and there were lots of them so I had a very thrilling ride!

​

I think I'm going to have to start watching more of the news. I'm expecting there to be news reports of some kind of a loon seen hobbling along the side of the road, a wide grin plastered across his face staring at "normal" things, a ridiculously packed bike parked up somewhere along the road.

Lots of open space too. For such a short road it fairly packed a lot in!

​

One thing that put me off initially was the litter along the road. Except it wasn't litter. It was giant leaves, fallen, dehydrated and lacking colour then broken up and herded by wind and water into roadside bundles. Dumbass!

And a forest!

And lots and lots of lush, luxuriant greenery

​

To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Filandia to Salento, 21 km Total KM 13795
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 3137
Total Climb 554 Total Descent 462
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 21

From a road with purpose to one with soul

Part Two

Way off from another galaxy I'd catch the ocasional sound of a motorbike screaming along the Coffee Highway as if to say "Hey, what happened? You were so excited to be on this road a few days ago!". I guess it just goes to show what a fickle fecker I am!

This was a difficult shot to take. There's a crevasse running up that hill which is populated by my mysterious silver trees. Enthralled and intrigued I was.

​

The climbing was tough at times but I was thoroughly enjoying where it brought me. Under canopies of trees, around bends with more life in a tiny compact area than I'd see for miles on other roads. Along open valleys with forests on the other side or through farmland with soft, rolling hills. It really was spectacular and so, so varied. Given the relatively short distance I covered it's a testament to the country that I passed through such different landscapes.

What a place to take a break!

​

I had to be careful - the road was pretty narrow, the sides were wet, slippy and full of flora debris. I often had to park the bike and walk back to get a photo, invariably seeing more on foot than I did on the bike. If my ankle wasn't screaming in protest I'd have been pushing the bike simply to make the most of the views.

From a canopy of trees over the road to a wide open landscape the Touring Gods were delivering!

​

Getting close to Salento I rounded a bend and saw Fred Flintstone's car and burst out laughing. I had to stop!

I loved this!! (The note says $1000 for photos - about €0,20)

​

As it turned out it was a part of a café and unusual artesenal store with lots of things made from wood and scrap metal.
The artist was very welcoming and understood when I swiftly declared that I wouldn't be buying anything. There was a real originality to the work but also such a range from a fighter airplane to a crucifix.

Photos were difficult but I wanted to remember these; a yacht, a fighter jet and a crucifix

​

As someone without an artistic bone in his body I am envious of people who can sit down, envisage an end product and then set about achieving it. A wooden carved dolphin atop an old suspension spring looked great until I realised that if I touched the dolphin he started jumping as if he was surging through the sea getting ready to explode into the air. Such life in wood and metal!

A very poor photo of a fantastic bit of art. Best of all, art that can be played with and brought to life. It really was spectacular when in motion

​

I had a coffee while admiring the work and checked Gizmo before setting off again - 1.7 km to go. 120 meters climbing.
I didn't measure it but I reckon it took half an hour to do that last 1.7km I have feck all photos - it wasn't about recording, it was about soaking up and feeling.

Nearly at my destination and the angry sky never moved past angry. The Touring Gods were in a benevolent mood today

​

Salento, as seems to be the way of these towns, keeps its jewels safely guarded in the centre making us trundle along, and up, some rough streets to find them.

Peeking through a gap on the side of the road there's pasture and more hills. This countryside is not dull! ​

My initial reaction on arrival at the Plaza was meh, more of the same. The view of the Plaza is blocked by semi permanent stalls selling crafts and I arrived on the day that they're decorating the Plaza for Christmas. Christmas!!!

Another peek through the side of the road at young coffee plants. The work and effort it must take to tend them!

​

There are bright buildings, an unusual but uninspiring church but the soul of the road has disappeared. It's very touristy and I've actually seen some (foreign) tourists. I think I prefer when I'm the only tourist in the village

Today's ríos; a babbling brook and a raging monster!

​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098