The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 763, Friday, October 15, 2021, Santa Sofia to Villa de Leyva, 20 km Total KM 12915
Min meters 2085, Max Meters 2401
Total Climb 300 Total Descent 435
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

I'm camping in South America!

It was a strange setup last night; a half finished hotel, no actual employees present, the other residents all seemed to be one group and nobody knew or would share the wifi password.
After a shower I fell asleep half dressed and with the light on! I'm tired these days.

I did wake up at 4am but with no great distance to go I rolled over.
When I did get up about 6:30 I took it easy, deciding on a coffee in the Plaza before I left. There's a fossil museum down the road that might be worth a visit and there's no point in being early.

Early morning view from outside the hotel - Guatemalan levels of mystery and wonder

​

Coffee was pleasant in the Plaza, not many people around. The clouds were low and created a magical ambience. A group of men on one corner either waiting for lifts or a day's labour - I don't know which.
The land is filling up with large polythene houses which the old boy yesterday told me were tomatoes. This seems to be a productive, agricultural area.

The indescribably freaky church..... and the lovely cloud's

​

I didn't have far to go to get to Villa de Leyva, about 20km and most was downhill. Like yesterday, the road was variable, especially around bridges when the surface typically disappeared. Not a problem, I'm in no hurry.

There is always something interesting to keep me amused

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The road could be open giving wide views of the valley or almost enclosed by trees creating lovely shade to cycle through. Again, the variety of trees was a joy to witness.

The sun is still working up to full power and mist is still hanging around in the valleys

​

Within a short time I came to the fossil museum. As can be typical in these parts a couple of places try to draw the unwary in to a shop under the guise of the museum but I found the right place, paid my entrance fee and went to see a fossil.

This museum is pretty unique because it was built around the fossil! It hasn't moved in 127 million years! (It may be 172 million). Me being me, my usual disoriented self in a museum, I actually walked past the fossil without noticing it (I was distracted by the building!)
It's of a crocodile type fish, and not small enough to miss! Unless you're me

Yep! I walked right past this fella! I was captivated by the ceiling, all wooden beams

​

The fossil isn't the most interesting thing - the story is!
Back in the 70's a local farmer, an amateur paleontologist, spotted something sticking out of the ground and recognised it as a part of a fossil. And a pretty big one. He immediately went to a local landowner who was also an amatuer paleontologist (and his son). They got permission from the farmer who owned the land to expose the fossil, built protective structures around it and basically started to get the word out. The local civic organisation (I can't think of an equivalent, basically a group of citizens raising money and organising resources to develop their area) got involved and over time the museum has improved, the locals have been trained to look after the fossil and in fossil hunting and preservation.
I can't see any way but they had to fight their corner to hold on to their fossil and they are clearly well respected because the museum now holds other rare fossils too.
Without meaning to be derogatory, it seems an unlikely story in a rural area but the place is very impressive. It felt like I was walking around a success story.
As is my way, the building enamoured me as much as the fossil!

The only disappointing aspect for me was the fact that there was practically no explanation around the fact that this part of Colombia was under water all that time ago. I know the world as we know it now is very different from what it used to be but my knowledge of this part of the world is appalling!

All of a sudden, it seemed, the land had become drier

​

Outside again, it was hot!! Pretty much all uphill to Villa de Leyva too.
All of a sudden the landscape became drier, dustier and a lot of pine trees appeared.
There were a lot of MTBs on the road explained when I got to town and saw all the places renting them out. Lots of ATVs for rent too.


Still early I headed to the Plaza on surprisingly wide streets, but heavily cobbled. I walked!
The church is old and low, the Plaza wide and open. It seemed that a market was being set up with all kinds of plants.
I got a coffee and empanada and watched.
It's tourist central. That was pretty clear from the get go. Hotel rates are off the charts. There are a couple of campsites outside of town. I'm picking one and hoping the rain won't be bad!

The very open Plaza with the humble church in the background

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It was my plan to wander around town for a while before setting up the tent but the cobbles put an end to that. They are brutal! I did some more climbing and found the most wonderful campground and hostal. I have my own space, raised and with a gulley between it and higher ground so I don't get flooded out! A decent kitchen, the use of a fridge, decent wifi and hot water in the showers! Bliss!

I pitched the tent, had a shower, did my laundry and just as I was hanging it up the heavens opened! So much for exploring downtown!
When it eventually lightened a couple of hours later I got to take a wander.
Most definitely a touristy place and full of tourists but with none of the pushiness of Cartagena or Santa Marta. In fact, here, being a solo traveller makes me pretty invisible! I walked down a street that was full of restaurants and not one menu bearing person bothered me!

20km today. But on a road like this!

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There's actually not a lot here but there are lots of activities around here. Villa de Leyva has set itself up (quite successfully it seems) as a base to do other things.
I have no more interest in ATVing or ziplining than the man on the moon but it's a great place to sit and watch people. Like I say, I'm pretty invisible.

The mighty Roccado and a variety of trees

​

When I made it back to the campsite I booked in for another night!
Oh, it's a holiday weekend in Colombia! That would explain some of the hotel rates! When Booking is promoting a last minute deal at over one million pesos there's something up!

And I get to spend my first night in South America in my tent!

I'm camping in South America! (That deserves its own paragraph!)

Tig and the tent. In South America!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 764, Saturday, October 16, 2021, Villa de Leyva,

A night in a tent! There's little to beat it! In bed lateish by my tent standards I enjoyed the delicious sensation of warming up under my sleeping bag (it's getting cool in the mountains and the rain doesn't help) while simultaneously my eyes were drooping reading the kindle. There was some music pumping from down the road somewhere but it was having no effect.

A typical house on one of the cobbled streets

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I woke at 4, in the cool, cool dark and rolled over again. No point in getting up!
About 6 I contemplated braving the cool morning air. When was the last time I was cold in the morning?
I got up, went for a pee and enjoyed a smoke in complete stillness.
This place is very pretty with lots of trees and bushes for privacy and decoration. A little, little río wanders through singing a bubbly morning tune.

These buses chill my heart! Tourist buses, bright and gaudy, often full of drinking passengers and speakers that can be heard in space!

​

I gathered up my "kitchen" panniers and went to the kitchen. I'd picked up a few breakfast pieces last night so set about making myself a big, big omelette. There's free coffee for guests but I can't be expecting that at 6:30 am! I brewed my own.

It took me a while to notice but a lot of buildings had very interesting chimneys!

​

I met Carlos and his wife when he sheepishly asked me if I had any oil so he could make scrambled eggs. They have a Toyota 4WD with a roof tent on a customised trailer. Very cool and very versatile. In a place like this they can take off in the 4WD and leave the tent and all their gear.

A bit of humour! "On October 13 1865 in this house nothing happened and nobody important was born" & a chance to pee on Corona!

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I moseyed into town meeting a few yappy dogs and set about my wandering. One of the first sights I saw was a man on a bike with his daughter standing on the (sloping) top tube, her hands on the handlebar. An unorthodox way to carry a passenger but both seemed to be enjoying it.

I really liked this old marker normally hidden by throngs of people walking past

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There's a modern "strip" to one side off the town, recently developed but a decent attempt made to architecture to make it blend in with the original designs. In fact, one of the things I liked about the town was that in addition to all the touristy shops and restaurants there were "normal" businesses like adobe makers, wood sellers and hardware stores. Normal life continued on.

I don't like lists and gun to head I'd struggle to list three things I liked about the town. Actually, I could name one - chimneys! A second would be bridges - there are lots of small bridges. There's nothing here - it's the totality of the place that charms me. There are lots and lots of people, normally a turn off for me, but everyone is calm and relaxed. Other than the eating places there is no-one to hassle me and most of them pay no attention to the solo traveller.

Apparently, this is what "real" tourists do around here. Once again, I'm a bad, bad tourist!

​

I could wander freely and just watch and absorb. I got a coffee with a delicious, but small slice of carrot cake. The icing was devine - not too sweet with just the right amount if citrus tartiness. But my eyes watered at the price!

I hit a few museums, leaving the best to last but it was closed! An interesting artist's house and another for a local who played an important part in establishing rights for all in Colombia. Interestingly, a part of that museum was an exhibition on the eradication of smallpox and the value of vaccines. Timely.

In a town in the mountains there are always good views

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I was back in the campsite for 3pm to take in my laundry intending to return to town later but the rain started about then and didn't let up until about 9. Stranded in the outside seating area about 150 meters from the tent I slowly froze. Taking a trip to the tent would have soaked me.

The cobbles are brutal to walk on but worth it! I spent ages watching two guys trying to manoeuvre a big truck around a corner

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There's a small restaurant onsite so I ordered dinner from Fernando, a very pleasant man who had once lived in Coleraine in Northern Ireland. Himself and the maid in the Peruvian consulate were the only (ordinary) Latinos!
He told me of a 19 year old German female cyclist who had camped here. Travelling with her boyfriend they had broken up in Panamá ( I could see why!) and while he went home to Germany she continued on. My kind of woman!

Just one view from a little bridge over a barely visible río​

I never did get to return to the town and my people watching but at least got to warm back up in the tent later.

The market in the main Plaza was for artesenal products from plants trees to organic coffee and handcrafts. Some ideas here for those old bike parts!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Today had no business turning out the way it did. I blame the coffee!

I seem to wake up automatically about 4am these days but I had no intention of getting up that early. I snoozed and arose about 6am. It's cool in the mornings now!
I grabbed my panniers and toddled down to the kitchen to brew up some coffee. Beacause of the inhospitable weather yesterday I had nothing for breakfast except a type of raisin bread - surprisingly good as it turned out.

Leaving town. A long, long line of traffic entering the town, a multitude of men trying to direct them into parking spaces and people walking all over, yet the place seemed calm, almost tranquil

​

I wasn't enthused about today's route. All on main roads, hitting the town of Tunja, a big town I had wanted to avoid. I wasn't even supposed to be going this way but I had spotted an old bridge, the site of a famous victory on the road to Colombian Independence. I'm a sucker for a bit of history so I changed my plans pretty drastically. My logic last night was that with the holiday weekend traffic would be light. I'd get to Tunja, fly through and turn south. Easy.

This wasn't the plan!! A real desert vibe, exciting roads and lots of fun!

​

This morning, over my coffee, that didn't chime. I envisioned "weekend drivers", cars with distracted drivers, children, pets, or both fighting in the back seat, people hurrying to another activity or just distracted by the views. Or maybe having downed a few beers.

At times like this I'm glad I have a gps! I could understand why so many places have MTBs for rent!

​

So I took out Osmand and with a bit of coaxing and mixing and matching car and bike routes I drafted a more direct and adventurous route. Slowly, very slowly I got organised. Drying out the tent, packing and chatting to other guests was very pleasant and not to be rushed. At any stage I could easily have opted to stay another night. Carlos and his wife were playing Disco music at a pretty high level. I suggested that they drive behind me for the day - I'd be flying!
It was about 11 am when I finally set off.

I stop to appreciate where I am and what I'm doing and all I can hear whispering in my ears is ..... "Adventure!".

​

There was no point trying to cycle through the town so I walked. I'm surprised at how much I liked the place, despite it being so full of tourists. A final walkthrough can't hurt.

This is so much better than the main road!

​

On the edge of town I avoided the main road and took a bouncy, bockety one. I was going to go cross country, hop on a main road for a bit and then back cross country to the town of Samacá. That would be the last place with accommodation for a while. The thought did cross my mind that accommodation on a holiday weekend may be an issue but I pushed it away. Today was minimal planning day - what could possibly go wrong?

Never a dull moment!

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There's alway a little element of surprise on these roads especially when plotted on Osmand. I wasn't too worried though - all the MTB and ATV rentals suggested that this area was good for a little adventure.

It wasn't all desert!

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It didn't take long at all for the dry landscape that I had noticed on the way into Villa de Leyva to totally captivate me. In a flash I was back in Texas or Northern Mexico - not bad places for bike adventure!

Can it get any better? Cowboys! (And a Cowgirl!)

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A maze of roads would have had me lost if not for Gizmo and there was practically no traffic. When there was it was three people on horses! My kind of roads!

And then it wasn't.

I came to a río, fast flowing and judging by a stick I used heading for close on a meter deep. I reckoned there was no way of crossing even carrying everything over my head.
I laughed - what else could I do?
A woman peeled off from some locals leaving a field and directed me back a little bit to a dual tree trunk bridge the locals use.
My kind of roads!

The problem.......and the solution! It doesn't look it but the river was flowing at a fair pace. Walking across would have been very tricky

​

I stripped the bike, got Roccado across first, then all the panniers, lugged all over a bumpy path and back on the road. It was great fun especially when the trunks started creaking!
Thunderbirds were go!

There's always some interesting trees!

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 2

Not long after the rîo I was back on a "proper" two laner, sans shoulder. After my adventure road it was disappointing to be back on a proper one.
It didn't help that it was mostly uphill! Nor was I quite as comfortable - traffic was "unprofessional" - weekend drivers - and quite heavy. Thankfully, most was on the other side.

Such a contrast! My heart was sinking and my enthusiasm flagging. I knew there'd be a turn back to Villa de Leyva soon and I was considering taking it!

​

I came to the village of Sáchica and turned off to explore. It was going to be my refuelling spot having only had some raisin bread several hours before.
Small, laid out in a grid pattern I found it neat, if a little dusty. The Plaza was dominated by festival things - marquees and amusements for kids. A bouncy obstacle course thing was popular, a type of carousel was empty.

Sáchica

​

I pulled up for some empañadas and a cold drink and then slowly rolled out of town again. While there was a lot of people swigging from bottles of beer I saw no signs of drunkenness. On the way out a long line of cars were trying to get in.

The countryside though, it was working away at me ........

​

Back on the road it wasn't long until I came to a turn off for Villa de Leyva but my adventure road had cured me of any urge to return. A long, long line of cars were waiting to turn in.

Cliffs on both sides!

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The problem I had now was a hefty, steady climb. With no shoulder and a busyish road it's not my favourite activity. The dry landscape and frequent cliffs alongside the road gave rise to lots and lots of gravel, rocks and sand on the side of the road too. That's the bad stuff.

The views did not disappoint!

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The good stuff was the amazing views as I went higher and higher looping over and back. Photos don't do the scale justice.
The sun was out ruining photos and it was hot! It was heavy going but quite enjoyable.

I got to stop where I wanted. The poor drivers couldn't!

​

At one particular curve the wind was ferocious and after that wind, heavy wind, was going to be a feature of the day. Twisty and turny as the road was it varied from minimal to blow me off the bike in strength.

Something different around every bend

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When I started to descend the wind was holding me back at times which is so frustrating. I passed several people selling Pringles on the side of the road! Big flags, little stands and lots and lots of Pringles!

This bike goes everywhere!

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Rounding a bend I came to my turnoff.

Despite the apparent dryness, this is farming country with lits of evidence

Looking back from where I came. The road is to the left. The wind was doing its best to hurl me down into the valley!

​

To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 3

WooHoo!!! More adventure!

​

If I was cursing the sun on the main road I was singing its praises on these backroads! It brought so much beauty and life to a place that was already beautiful and alive.

It was hot. Very hot! But the sun brought glory and beauty - a price worth paying.

​

Gone was the dry and dusty, almost desert-like conditions of earlier - I was in farming country!

Looking back.....

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Generally flat with some short, steep climbs the views and surfaces made for slow progress. Minimal traffic meant I had this whole paradise all to myself most of the time.

For a route that was thrown together in about five minutes it's sure turning out pretty well!

​

I passed what looked to be an extended family harvesting onions. It looked to be tough, back breaking work. All the full sacks though pointed to the progress made.

The onion pickers. For some reason this gave me immense joy. I think it's the fact that I'm getting to see "normal" things

​

Looking back the view was always changing as I twisted around and up and down.

Stopped here, I could feel something drawing me in deeper. I couldn't have turned around even if I'd wanted to!

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I could have spent all day riding over and back. There was just so much to see and on such a rough surface to feel as well. It was only about an hour in total, but what a great hour!

Definitely farming country and so lush in comparison to earlier

​

I descended out of the hills and the road regained its surface.

Still a lot of wildness at times

​

To be continued......

What a great road! What a great hour!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 4

A real road again! At least it was small! I particularly liked the bright blue roof!

​

Samacá is an agricultural town which became pretty evident as I got closer.

Rolling down, hoping to find a place to sleep

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I swept around the Plaza but because time was getting on headed for the only hotel I knew of. It wasn't where it was supposed to be! Both Google & Booking showed it (in slightly different locations), Booking had no reviews (unusual) and it was nowhere. Uh oh!

The Plaza

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I weaved back towards the Plaza, going up this street, down that one but the only hotel I could find was closed! Uh oh!
I got to the Plaza and did a lap. Up on top of one of the streets I spotted a bright yellow "Hotel" sign and checked myself in. A very pleasant young chap looked after me then it was a quick, quick shower and out to explore.

Evening mass in the church

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There's not much to the town except the Plaza. A lot of the rest seems to be "under construction" and looks that way for a long time!

And a close up

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I got a bite to eat as night fell then passed the church as evening mass was going on.
It's cold these days! My fleece was essential for wandering around. It feels so strange to be cold! It has been ages since I've felt cold!
I saw where there had been some kind of event(s) on the Plaza earlier. A number of white tents were still standing. Of anti-social behaviour there was no sign. I felt perfectly at ease wandering around.
It's a friendly little place, though. Stopping off at a little bakery the female assistant was very cheerful and helpful even throwing a few extra small things into my bag when I gave a small tip.

Then it was back to the little hotel for a decent sleep.

Cookies!

​

It's an interesting little place. High up and attached to the building is a glass enclosed Statue of Mary, Mother of God, immuminated in slowly changing light. Despite the clear religious declaration, the only other people I saw checking in were two young couples, late teens, early twenties, no bags, no belongings except motorbike helmets. It was fairly clear what they were up to!

There are quite a few of these Renaults knocking around, not all in as good nick as this one

​

I had great plans of updating this but I fell fast asleep!

What. A. Day.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 766, Monday, October 18, 2021, Samacá to Villapinzón, 58 km Total KM 13002 (Sorry Ian!)
Min meters 2646, Max Meters 2935
Total Climb 1129 Total Descent 1012
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 23

Back on a big, big road

I woke up late not feeling great. I was starting to think that maybe I was developing a bit of a cold after my cold and damp few hours in Villa de Leyva.
With a tricky socket location I brewed up some coffee and ate the pastries I'd bought last night.
I sat outside to have a smoke and it was cold! Not cool. Cold.

I debated about having a proper bite to eat in the Plaza but wasn't feeling it, so instead mounted up and headed off - and upwards!

Nothing like a brisk climb to start the day!

​

There was a big climb that started enclosed by trees but soon opened up into broad vistas of fertile looking farmland.
At the top of the climb I came to an unexpected village, had a pastry of ham, cheese and pineapple and continued on.
It was here that I became aware of the preponderance of shawls or grey woolen ponchos worn by just about everyone. In my head I tend to associate these (although more colourful) with Peru. There has been little evidence in Colombia so far of indigenous style.

Still climbing but looking back on the town of Samacá

​

Despite the road being very quiet there were serveral bunches of people selling local pastries on the side of the road, usually on a bend, presumably because traffic is already slowing down. It just strikes me as dangerous.

It took about two pleasant hours on this small, quiet road to hit the main road - a massive four lane split highway. I saw immediately that my assumption that it would be quiet until later was very, very wrong. My side, the side heading to Bogotá, was very busy!

Before the noise and the traffic and the wind and the stress there was this....

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To see my bridge I had to cross this monstrosity, a thing that proved too difficult for both Osmand and Google. In the end I had to head south (up a bloody big hill!) take a "retorno" to the other side and roll back down. To get back to heading south I'd need to go north 4 or 5km for the next "retorno"!
There was also a ferocious wind in my face!
This bridge better be worth it!!

Of course it wasn't! In truth, I never really expected it to.
It's incredibly small and there's no information around for people like me. It's hard to believe armies fought a decisive battle over this bridge - I could probably take a good run and jump across the river it spans.
The amount of posing for photos on it was something to behold.

The site of the Battle of Boyoca. That's the little bridge in the background

​

It's something I have noticed since México - the numbers of young women (always women) posing in what I'd term "professional model" style. These aren't face-the-camera-and-smile snaps, these are puff out the boobs, turn sideways, do that duck thing with the lips photos. I watched a girl in Cartagena do this rejecting each and every shot until she was happy with the result.

I got distracted and talking to two security guards, one of whom fairly interrogated me. It was a strange, draining experience, question after question delivered in a monotone and with no reaction to the answers.

There was no way I was going to go 4 or 5 km in the wrong direction to get back on the right side of the road. I pushed up (steep and against the one way system) through the park and cycled the wrong way on the shoulder. Don't panic! Lots of folks do it here and the Police were good enough to ignore me!

Before the carnage of the big road

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I got on the right side and promptly pulled in for coffee and food, in this case, arepas, a kind of grilled dough with jam.
I wasn't feeling good, in fact quite weak and with a tough headwind and a steep climb ahead not to mention the heavy traffic I wasn't looking forward to the next leg. I even considered heading north to Tunja to start again tomorrow.

I set off not in the best of spirits. The fact is I am only going south to take a turn to cross some mountains to head back north again. The price of my urge to see a little bridge!
I had two main problems on the road. The first was the sheer number and frequency of clusters of places selling the local pastries leading to people with flags encouraging cars to pull in and park in the shoulder, while the second was all the gravel in the shoulder which made progress tricky at times.

The Big Road! "Accordian" traffic jams, lots of arepa stores and cars blocking the shoulder. I've had better days on the bike

​

I had ups and downs until I started a 300 meter climb. To add to the excitement, angry dark clouds were swirling around.

To be fair, though, the views were excellent - wide open farmland, a variety of greens and interesting houses.

The views though......

​

I passed the edge of a small town (on the other side) and thought about stopping but the one hotel I could see looked pretty poor and besides, it would leave a difficult day tomorrow. It was then I noticed what must surely include me in any top ten list of the worst parents ever! Tig was sitting on the wall of a bridge way back the road! I'd had him out when the interrogating security guard freaked me out. Dumbass!

Intrepid photographer that I am I took this from the central divide ..... Then got stuck for 15 minutes waiting for a gap in traffic! Nope! I'm not sure what it means!

​

Near the top of the climb I pulled in for simple food but could only have another arepa. A bit stodgy at this stage. A motorbiking couple had their handbag dog with them! I waited as long as I could to see how he travelled but in the end couldn't wait anymore.

It was almost all downhill now and I took it easy, turning off and heading for the Plaza in Villapinzón. I bought some ciggies and asked the shookeeper for a hotel around the Plaza. Nothing. Only on the main road.
I bought my customary coffee and plonked myself down to study the little town. A couple of guys were busy dismantling an outdoor sound system. I was very tired. Pleased that I'd made it, but feeling a tad under the weather.

The sun can really work wonders

​

A pleasant man joined me for a chat. An actual chat, as in an exchange of information as opposed to a series of questions. He told me of a hotel on the way I'd be travelling tomorrow. I set off to find it.
Despite asking a couple of passersby and in a shop I could get no verification if a hotel existed or where it was. I turned back to the main road to one I had passed earlier. Pleasantly cheap, I dropped my gear, had a shower with the chill removed and headed back for the centre before darkness fell.

Still quiet, not a lot had changed. The thought of food did not appeal but I knew I needed something so I hit a little supermarket for yoghurt and cornflakes. Not exactly high cuisine but my belly didn't seem to object too much. Then back to the hotel to eat.

I ate and promptly fell asleep!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 766, Monday, October 18, 2021, Villapinzón,

The town took its name from this chap, Prospero Pinzon

The church

Sunsets can be pleasant, if very swift, in the highlands. Getting a good view can be tricky

The church from the Plaza

Nature's Fireworks

Some streetart. It seems that this whole area of Colombia was the source and scene of the Independence struggle

And some more......

Inside the very understated church. The altar, especially, was one of the simplest I've seen

The very pretty Plaza

I'm getting a little arty farty 😊

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 767, Tuesday, October 19, 2021, Villapinzón to Lenguazaque, 32 km Total KM 13034
Min meters 2603, Max Meters 3062
Total Climb 646 Total Descent 801
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 27 Ave Temp 20

It's all about the road.

There was no 4am waking this morning! I opened my eyes to discover it was 7:30! I slowly got up and wandered outside for a coffee. I wasn't feeling great and it was cold! The sky was looking ominous too!

I got packed up and rolled down to the plaza for a pastry and coffee before hitting the road. The Plaza, in fact, the whole town was quiet. Not surprising really after a long weekend.

The interesting climb out of town. What I'd managed easily yesterday (looking for a hotel) was tough work today

​

I climbed out of town on the same roads I had gone searching for the hotel. I never passed any hotel but I also realised that today was going to be tough. The road I'd climbed yesterday at the end of the day was kicking my ass today.

I especially liked this ploughed field

​

Then I ran out of road - or at least road surface! I knew I was taking a backroad today but had expected a surfaced road. I'd even loaded a bike option with even smaller roads if I felt like it. I didn't!

Dull and cold but with interesting scenery. It's so strange to feel cold!

​

On another day it would be great fun but today it wasn't. There were few places to stop and rest. The surface, gravel, sometimes just rock, sometimes sand or clay required a lot of attention. Even stopping astride the bike for a photo could be tricky because the rear wheel would spin on starting up again. The dark clouds and the cool temperature didn't help my mood.

And then the surface was gone

​

The climbing levelled off and the countryside did its best to inspire me but an old nemesis came back into my life - dogs!
I'm not sure if it was the cool temperature ensuring they were all awake or just the nature of the road - lots of farms - but there were a lot of dogs out for me today. To be fair to the mutts most were barkers and some quite cowardly. A few though, were a bit more determined. I took to getting off the bike.
It's interesting. Back in the US dogs were coming close to ruining the tour. In CDMX dogs played a huge part in keeping me calm during a very strange time. These days they're, at worst, an irritation. Rightly or wrongly, I believe I have a much better understanding of the dogs and can tell which are harmless.
Also, without the extra effort of going uphill I started to get cold. Time to stop and don my jacket.

Farming country. Lots of fincas (farms) dotted around

​

A couple of times I had the choice of staying on the "main" road or taking a bike route. At one stage I studied the bike route carefully (unusual for me) and saw I needed to ford a river. Looking at the sky I had visions of torrents so took the boring, higher option.

Traffic was mainly motorbikes, with a few trucks and cars thrown in to raise some dust. Traffic wasn't an issue.

Tough climbing

​

I had one big climb and then a long descent to the town of Lenguazaque which I had decided would be my home tonight. The climb was tough, the descent too! I did get a great view of the town from up high, though!

I was cool but the sun was over there! So unfair!

​

The road surface returned and I geared up for a fast descent. Oh Dumbass! On the second bend (and there were going to be lots of them!) I almost wiped out on some unexpected sand. I took it easy after that!

Tough..... But pretty

​

The town, which looked so neat from up high appeared rougher at ground level. I trundled along the main street acquiring lots of stares, then turned up for the pleasant Plaza. I had a coffee and wandered over to an Hospedaje on the corner. A cheap room for me and Roccado was quickly organised. A little wander around - apart from the Plaza there's not much of interest.

A really great perk of these mountain roads is that I get to see my destination

​

Except for a football game! After dark a section of the street was cordoned off, two tiny goals set up and two mixed teams (5 a side) went hell for leather at each other!
They all had proper kit and played with a full on Latin passion. It was especially interesting to see the women giving and receiving as much as the lads. There was little of the drama associated with football in this area - rolling around screaming - probably because the street is hard, but there were arguments with the ref. A decent sized crowd were watching and cheering.
I found out that these are two neighbourhoods competing against each other.
An absorbing scene of small town Colombia.

I'm going to dose myself with paracetamol and wrap up for the night. Hopefully I'll be feeling better tomorrow.


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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 768, Wednesday, October 20, 2021, Lenguazaque to Ráquira, 40 km Total KM 13074
Min meters 2172, Max Meters 3033
Total Climb 636 Total Descent 1052
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 22

Hell yeah!

This morning started in a little bakery on the Plaza, the bike parked up outside. A man leaving as I entered gave me a fist bump and welcomed me.
My coffee and chicken pastries hit the spot and I rolled out of town. Again, I had bike and car routes. I could go either for a few kms but then I'd have to commit. The bike route had about half as much climbing and I was feeling pretty good so I thought I'd probably do that even if it meant rougher roads.

A beautiful fresh morning!

​

It was a very different morning to yesterday with blue skies and a bright sun. Still cold, though! The countryside was gleaming, almost as if someone or something had spruced it up for me! It didn't last long!
It appears that as well as lots of quarries this is a coal mining area. Cue lots of big, heavy trucks and a lot of dust. I mean a lot of dust!
I hit my first traffic jam at what I think was a big coal mine. The air was filled with dust. The road which had a decent surface up to that point went to pot. Good practice for later!

Away from the mine the beauty returned. Nothing excessive, but very vivid. At least in the distance. Up close there could be an eerie silvery coating of dust on everything. I travelled a while under a canopy of silvery, dusty trees. A strange experience!

A heavy coating of silver/grey dust cast an eerie coat on everything. Normally, once out of town my facemask goes in my pocket - not today! It was very handy against all the dust raised by traffic

​

The road surface had come and gone a few times by now and finally decided to emigrate to somewhere warmer. It was cold. I was bouncing along when I tried to follow the bike route - diagonally across a field! Uh oh. This was where the routes diverged so I had little option but to stay on the "car" route. And so began the adventure!

I had sand, gravel, rock, potholes, earth and crushed stone for most of the day. Unusually, most of the traffic was heavy trucks, laden or empty either going to collect or heading off to deliver coal or rock. Those big trucks can really dig up the road!
It was slow going requiring a lot of attention. A climb certainly didn't help. It was gentle enough but trying to weave between all the obstacles was tiring. Bends were the trickiest, typically steeper with lots of gravel along the side and trucks hurtling both directions on the wrong side of the road.

A tough, tough road...... But with lots of compensations!

​

Some truck drivers were slow and cautious while others, especially those going downhill, just flew and bounced down jamming on the breaks and skidding for the turns.

It was with some relief that I pulled into the small town of Gauchetà. I was highly amused at the approach to the town on a "road" that would be insulting to proper roads filled with potholes of various sizes and depths that someone had put in speed bumps!
At least all the heavy traffic avoided the centre so the air was free of dust.
A quick coffee and a pastry and I was off again.

Gauchetà, a very welcome relief from the noise, dust and shaking on the road

​

I'd been hoping the road surface might improve because now I was heading into a 300 meter climb. Ha! Chance would be a fine thing! It started rough, had a bit of concrete for a steep section then reverted to something that will never be used as an example of a road!

Steeper than earlier it was next to impossible to climb safely. Corners were blind and ridiculously steep, loose stones and gravel were everywhere and the road regularly had a dried out stream bed, and sometimes two or three, running along or across it. Time to get off and push.
Most of the trucks disappered but were replaced with lots of motorbikes and some cars.

With height comes the views!

​

It was very hard going with very few places to stop and rest. Once, standing beside the bike having a breather the bike started to slide one way, I another. There was a lot of lifting the bike to prevent it sliding away as I pushed.

Dogs were an issue again today, usually harmless barkers. For example, when I realised that my bike route wasn't going to work I was on a tiny road with several farms spread out along the valley. A dog in the nearest farm started barking at me and soon the barks were coming from the whole valley!
At one stage walking past a farm I spotted Mr. Savage tied up and snarling with gusto. I was more preoccupied with his loose siblings who were running around me. On a steep turn I kept left to make it easier on me and unbeknownst to me almost came within range of Mr. Savage. He came at me silently only snarling as he reached the end of his tether. I spun around to see him mid air just as he was yanked back by his rope - about half a meter from me! I nearly needed fresh underwear!

It was still enjoyable though. Views were often limited but beside the road I had a variety of trees, plants, some flowers and cliffs, large and small. There's a lot of "fool's gold" in the rock in these parts and I'm pretty sure that on a sunny day it would look even better.

I met an older man cycling down the hill who proceeded to tell me that I had a long way to go yet! And that the other side was going to be harder! He specifically told me it topped out at 3200 meters whereas I was counting up to 3000. With a happy grin he set off downhill his work done here!

It had been cool all day. Despite Gizmo sometimes reading 24 or 25C I felt cool on the flat. Climbing kept me warm, but not excessively. It's such a strange sensation to be cold after so much heat for so long.

I love this shot!

​

After a few false summits I started to roll down. I wanted to stop for a rest but there was no place to lean the bike. Too steep for my clickstand and afraid that if I lay the bike down it may be too hard to pick up again I bounced and shook and vibrated downhill. There was no relaxing, total concentration was required.

Going past a house two dogs came roaring at me, a retriever cross and a black and white mixed breed. I hopped off and started talking to them. The retriever rounded the bike then adopted the 'I want to play" pose of ass up, head down. I swear he grinned at me. I put my hand out, a quick sniff and I patted him on the head. Then he jumps up on me, paws on my chest for closer attention all the while his buddy's barking is becoming more confused. Am I friend or foe? Then he was gone, running back to the house!

A real treat of these mountain roads is that I get to see my destination from up high! Unlike yesterday, sighting the town was no guarantee of an improved road surface. I bounced down through the less salubrious parts of town and only a couple of hundred meters from the Plaza did a proper surface appear.

Ráquira! I'm getting a real thrill seeing my destination from up high. Better than from down below! There was still a treacherous descent on the same type of surfaces though

​

Ráquira is the next recommendation from my Colombian amiga. It is all of 24km from Villa de Leyva! (If I'd taken a more direct route!) I'm off to explore!

*Today was a very tough day, much tougher than I had expected. Hell, at one stage I thought I'd do the run from Villapinzón to Ráquira in one go! The surface, the traffic and the climbing all combined to make it slow, uncomfortable and difficult. These days I keep reminding myself that I'm in the Andes and that a price has to be paid for that. The Andes! On my bike! Me!

Then I round a bend and I get a view like this

​

Is it worth it?
Hell Yeah! (As Neil Diamond would put it).
This song was bouncing around in my head afterwards.
Enjoy!

View: https://youtu.be/VEVNcbo_Tas


Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 768, Wednesday, October 20, Ráquira

The Plaza in Ráquira

The buildings in the centre were very, very bright! Away from the small centre homes were more "normal" for here, often unpainted and in various states of construction

Normally, such a sight repulses me but I felt like I had the town to myself. There was zero hassle and pressure to visit or buy anything

A barber shop. Barbers are very common here from very basic set ups to more elaborate with pool tables. The larger ones seem very sociable and often drinks are available. Beauty Parlours are everywhere too.

A very pretty Hospedaje.

Even the small things were painted brightly. This contains electrical meters. It created a very pleasant vibe in the town and gives the wandering bike tourer lots to admire

A steep stairs up and away from the little centre

I couldn't get a full shot of the building because of a parked car but there's a brightness, a life brought to the town by such buildings

I love this!

And one especially for me!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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​

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 769, Thursday, October 21, 2021, Ráquira to Chinquapin, 31 km Total KM 13105
Min meters 2135, Max Meters 2605
Total Climb 630 Total Descent 233
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 24

Belly Problems

Breakfast was included in the rate last night ( Ráquira is a touristy spot) so I was down for 7am to be greeted by Toby, a big, friendly dog from yesterday evening. It's hard to quantify or describe the comfort, the pleasure that comes from a dog, big enough to roughhouse with, getting all up close and personal.
I enjoyed my breakfast of fruit and eggs and slowly got organised to leave.

I was feeling pretty tired despite a good night's sleep and my tummy still wasn't feeling great. I briefly considered staying another night but the hotel was at the top of my budget and the room was tiny. Time to push on.

Leaving town. Hard to believe with that sky but it was pretty cool!

​

I set off with two reasons for optimism; the first was that I was on an actual road, the second that it was relatively flat, at least for a while.

It was bright and sunny, warmer than yesterday and the minor road was quiet.
After a junction the climbing began and that was where the wheels started to come off a bit. My belly started to feel very uncomfortable. Being such a terrible patient that was pretty much all I could think about.
Progress was slow. Shade was rare as were safe places to stop. I pulled in when the two coincided.

Interesting country, twisty turny road and best of all, relatively flat!

​

The road was interesting but I wasn't in the frame of mind to properly appreciate it. Lacking energy, a belly on the verge of cramping and feeling sorry for myself is not a good combination.

Being farm country dogs were ever present, usually far off barking, but once, a nasty bugger led three buddies out a gate at me just at the same time as a truck was overtaking me. He got a bit too close for comfort necessitating a quick dismount.

I pay a lot of attention to those signs now! Subsidence!

​

Another animal that got too close was a lively calf! He was being jogged down the road towards me, a man holding him by a rope, another lagging behind. I was quite impressed at the calf's roadsense - a couple of cars had passed him with no ill effects. I was, that is, until they came to a bend and the calf continued straight on heading onto my side of the road. I'm not intimidated by a calf but like his boss I was suddenly aware of the danger, pulling up in the middle of the road and frantically waving down a car powering up behind me. The two boyos found a burst of speed which only seemed to spur the calf on until ropeman started pulling in the rope. Back on the correct side of the road we could all breathe a sigh of relief. My belly wasn't in the mood for veal

Lots of farmland but some places just can't be farmed

​

It had been my plan to hit the big town of Chinquapin and head out on another cross country route that will take a few days but will involve a lot of climbing and probably some wild camping. That was looking dodgy now with my belly the way it was. I had a 500 meter climb now and was struggling badly. I'd have 1000 tomorrow in one go and another couple of thousand before I hit civilisation. As time went on I focused only on reaching Chinquapin. I decided I'd stop there.

And a wider view.......

​

Finally, I reached the top of the climb and set off on the "flat" plain. Ha! Dumbass!Everything looks flat on a little screen after a 500 meter climb! It was, in fact, a series of ups and downs, the ups particularly sapping, the downs a bit tricky with the way I was feeling.

There's hardly a day goes by without me being captivated by trees! I really liked these ones

​

Then, as if on cue, the clouds that had been threatening rain stopped threatening and started to relieve themselves. I tried to wait it out under a generous tree but in the end had no choice but to move on. When was the last time I cycled in the rain? Costa Rica?

Today's río looks a lot like an irrigation channel. There was a pretty fast flow to it.

​

Having not planned to stay in Chinquapin I was a bit shocked to see the guide prices in Booking/Google. Not a cheap town!
I arrived into the wet town and arrived in front of the rather dull, large church in the rain. A stray dog promptly went for me! Following traffic I wandered around, further from the centre and happened across a hotel at a junction on the road out of town. Pleasantly cheap, the very pretty lady allowed me to sweet-talk her into taking Roccado into the room.

I appear to be exceptionally lucky with the weather. Often I'll feel a few, big, wet drops but today was the first day getting caught. The skies though can be very angry looking, very intimidating, today's was just dripping mood and atmosphere

​

I went to a chemist next door for something for my belly and took a walk. The rather staid church that I had arrived at was anything but staid inside but looking up at the ceiling left me dizzy. Having not eaten since breakfast I needed food but could see nothing that appealed to me. I returned to the hotel to see a Chinese restaurant next door. Rice would do the trick! Home and bed!

The main church (actually a Basilica - whatever that is!) taken on Saturday with a market outside. Chinquapin bills itself as the religious Capital of Colombia (I don't know why) and there is no shortage of stores selling religious tat.

​

I took two days of in Chinquapin because I wasn't feeling great. It's not a town for staying in despite being billed as Colombia's Capital of Religion. It's not particularly attractive. My hotel, cheap as it was wasn't much better. But it served.
I also decided to wuss out on my route for the next few days. I had planned on taking a minor road across to the Río Magdalene but that would involve serious climbing, a lack of services, some poor surfaces, wild camping and did I mention a lot of climbing? Instead, I'll take a longer route with less climbing but more towns. Anyone following this on a map is going to look and wonder just what the hell I'm doing!

Inside the Basilica. I presume the chairs are a Covid precaution. I felt incredibly uncomfortable in this place. On the first day I put it down to feeling unwell, but I returned every day. Too grand. Way too ostentatious. Oiba has spoiled me forever!

​

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[HobbesOnTour]

Some more odd'n'ends....

They sell 4 portion packs of cereal here. 4 portions for a normal person, one for a bike tourist!

Road subsidence - a very gentle example, only about the depth of my foot. These can be almost invisible until the last minute, much deeper (I've seen drops of about a meter) and because they are uneven and affect only parts of the road add a whole new level of adventure!

They do like their speed limit signs here!

As always in this part of the world there are great examples of old vehicles being used normally

The sun is very, very powerful here and the entrepreneurial spirit is very alive! A man directs motorbikers to park up and provides cardboard to protect the seats - all for a tip.

Carts like these are quite popular for moving stuff around or as a mobile platform for selling anything and everything.

The hazard signs are very, very detailed! There are a variety of animal hazard ones which I don't know are regionally specific or varied just to keep drivers' attention.

This was a Police checkpoint set up on the highway heading towards Bogotá. I thought the inflatable vehicles imparted a fun atmosphere. Drivers were seemingly pulled at random and under a large tent were gathered in a square formation for what seemed to be a lecture or possibly question and answer session. Over the tent was a sign reading "Respect the rules of the road".

Storm drains on the side of some roads can be interesting for the distracted cyclist!

In the mountainous towns the storm drains can be pretty intimidating!

​

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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 772, Sunday, October 24, 2021, Chinquapin to Puente Nacional, 42 km Total KM 13147
Min meters 1630, Max Meters 2658
Total Climb 246 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 28

Rivers and trees

Today was the day I'd move on no matter what. The town had nothing to keep me here and my room, already small, was closing in on me. The only problem was that I was heading back to Barbosa, a town I hadn't stayed in on my first pass through. There was a small town, Puente Nacional, about 10km before Barbosa. I'd had good luck with towns 10km from Barbosa, maybe my luck would hold.

Turning a roadside waterfall into a grotto.

​

I'd had a late night watching (English language) movies on the tv so set the alarm for 7am. I got up slowly, had a hot shower (for accuracy, there was no "showering", the water came out of a pipe), the best thing in my room and wandered out for a coffee. My stomach wasn't up for food.
Town was surprisingly busy with a lot of bikers risking life and limb breaking traffic lights with wild abandon!
I packed up and hit the road.

I do like the trees in these parts

​

Avoiding the main street I pulled in at a little bakery for a coffee and some sustenance. I couldn't count on anything along the road. Then it was out into the country.

The road was good, or so it seemed, and my "flat" profile was actually more up and down. I knew, however, I'd have a long descent later.

Río Suarez in full, powerful flow! The sound was thunderous! Fall in there and no-one will last long

​

Out of ciggies and spying a shop on the opposite side of the road I pulled in as a roadie came up behind me. He stopped too.
Where was I going?
Towards Barbosa.
No, ultimate destination?
Now I cringed a little. This guy was speaking very directly at me and after a moment's confusion as to why I was going north when everyone knows Argentina was to the south he told me in no uncertain terms that I was going wrong!
I explained that I was taking the long way, the scenic way around which only seemed to confuse him more. In any case he was soon on his way, no doubt questioning my suitability for such adventures.

Another tree!

​

I toddled on pondering my attitude to Sundays. Sunday is supposed to be the best day for riding a bike on the roads because of the reduced traffic but that's not chiming with my experience. Yes, there may well be less traffic (but I can't say for certain) but the traffic that does pass is different. It seems more distracted and often is certainly faster. Still not feeling 100% didn't help my perception.
I also realised that my perception of the road as being good wasn't quite accurate either. It was good, except for when it wasn't, and when it wasn't it was really bad, often deceptively so. Today I had several encounters with geological issues, often hidden until the last moment and one of those was at 50kph!

Río Suarez further down the road. Still wild! Still roaring!

​

I'd eaten nothing for 36 hours until my lone empanada this morning so I was taking it easy. There were few views awesome enough to encourage stopping so I stopped wherever there was a place to lean the bike and rest.

Then I came to the descent and began to fly. Of course, that's also when the views became interesting! More interesting was the road.
These geological faults are really very interesting! Really dangerous, but really interesting. The road, or more accurately a part of the road can sink. The sinkage can be up to a meter in depth, a sudden drop and just as sudden rise if not expected. On two wheels it's tricky, on four it must be really tricky! Of the two front wheels one may drop and rise before a repeat performance on the rear. Lots and lots of cars and trucks therefore adopt their own line which adds to the fun.
That's if the surface hasn't broken. If it has the sinkage isn't smooth at all, it's a bloody treacherous pothole of any shape and depth. They're wheel killers.
On the flat or climbing there's enough time to spot them, but descending, these dips are often invisible until the last moment. Throw in the effect of dark patches of shade caused by the bright sun and it's a whole lot of fun!

The clouds were very impressive today. They seemed powerful, ominous and the dark ones were frankly scary!

​

I approached Puente Nacional by turning off the main road and starting a steep climb. My initial impressions were not great and the town seemed incredibly quiet. As usual I headed for the church spire (or in this case twin spires) and the Plaza. It didn't take long for the place to change my mind. Yes, it was quiet, but very pleasantly so instead of ominously.
I did a lap of the pleasant Plaza getting stares but also a few smiles and waves.
I parked up to get a coffee and had a very pleasant chat with a young Venezuelan. I was enjoying myself so much I had another coffee. Noticing that there was a hotel attached I enquired about a room - too expensive - but my Venezuelan waiter directed me to one across the Plaza. Much cheaper and one of the nicest rooms in a long time! It even had hot water! And a balcony!

There's great variety to the flora

​

Unloading the bike on the street a motorbike pulls up and I chat to a local. Friendly, curious, a conversation rather than an interrogation. A sincere good wish for my journey.

I showered and went awandering.

It's a lovely little town. No reason for tourists to come here that I can see. A dull, redbrick church, inside and out, is outshone, characterwise, by the civic offices.
Steep streets down lead to a second, newer Plaza with a multipourpose court/pitch (occupied) and a collection of pools and fountains (off).
Big kids play football, little ones thrill themseves running along the edges of the pools.

The bars, pretty basic as always, are busy but again I detect no drunkeness, just sociability. There are more shops open around here but no-one's buying.

It doesn't take long to cover the whole town, up and down. While it seems like a prosperous town there is still evidence of poverty. Seemingly stray dogs are everywhere and the traffic, little as it is, slows to wait for them as they cross the road.

Suarez has calmed down.

​

It's not cold so I can sit in the Plaza, read my book and enjoy the sights and sounds of a small town at play on a Sunday night.

Another great tree

​

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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 773, Monday, October 25, 2021, Chinquapin

I gave myself a gift today. The gift of a day. A day in small town Colombia.

After breakfasting, packing up and taking one last look at the early morning Plaza from my balcony (I had a balcony!) I started picking up the panniers for the trip downstairs when I asked myself just what was I doing?
Here was a chance to see a "normal" town on a normal day in luxurious (by recent standards) accommodation at a very cheap price (€6,50).
A quick chat with the receptionist/chambermaid and I didn't need to carry my panniers anywhere for at least 24 hours.

The church. It seems to be getting a facelift, there are some scaffolding hidden behind the tree. Inside is quite plain and understated

​

I settled myself on the balcony and watched.
Every hotel room has a tv, something that I rarely use. Usually the tvs are ancient, reception poor and the sound seems to be arriving having bounced along a neverending tunnel. The news invariably features a story (with CCTV) of muggings or similar in Bogotá. Not exactly tourism TV.
I had no need of a tv here - I had a huge screen right in front of me featuring a host of unknown, yet familiar stars.
There's the old boys gathering under a tree for a chat, their working days behind them. The old girls stopping to chat with each other before going on, looking busier than the old boys. The dogs, ever present in these parts, strays for the most part it seems, walking, shnuffling and then lying down to doze.

The Civic Offices. Every town has them, normally on the Plaza and always busy

​

There's a bakery right under me sending up pleasant aromas every time an oven door is opened and it seems like all the world pays it a visit at some stage. The man in charge and his two female staff are very friendly - I had my coffee there this morning.

These mountain towns are hilly! Gradient is difficult to capture in a photo but have a look at the footpaths!

​

People visit the bank, the pharmacy and lots of people have business at the Palacio Municipal.
The Police are out too, uncomfortably obvious in their green paramilitary uniforms. Surely there's no need? (A news report last week from further north and close to where I passed was about the murder of two Venezuelan youths (12 & 15) caught stealing in a shop, held by citizens for "vigilantes" then found dead outside the town.)

The other Plaza. In the foreground on the left a small playground, on the right the pools that are such fun for the daredevil little kids, in the background the now normal combi football pitch basketball court.

​

Later, small schoolkids cross the plaza heading home from school. The bigger ones come later.
A conflict between a delivery truck and a garbage truck was settled amicably, the garbage truck and the cars behind it reversing to let the delivery truck proceed - against the one way system!
And motorbikes. Lots and lots of motorbikes. Solo riders, couples, entire families all bouncing along on one bike. Motorbikes seem to be equal opportunity vehicles - here in town there are as many women as men riding them.
For Latin America the sounds are muted. There's no music pumping from anywhere. The dogs bark. Horns beep. And people whistle at each other. They're greetings, to attract attention. Not at all meant in an aggressive or disrespectful manner, so strange to my European ears.

The primary school - "The Little Devils" The kids schools are normally painted with murals. I love them. They make the place seem friendly

​

Everything happened and nothing happened. I saw the world of a Colombian town and saw nothing at all. I took a siesta (the luxury!) and when I returned to my vantage point it was like I'd never left. The sun had moved, the shady spots occupied by new old boys.

Interesting street art

​

I took a ramble and resumed my observations from across the plaza on the terrace of a restaurant. The best food I've had so far in Colombia. The waiter spotted me on the bike yesterday. Dressed less brightly and more normally I'm still recognised. Questions about my trip. His female colleague smiling shyly at me.

A typical house in the old town. Opposite is a refurbished version

​

Night has fallen and the plaza is quieter than last night. Kids have come out to play. Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great!

The Plaza at night was wonderful. Atmospheric lighting and a wonderful, friendly vibe. I love how the public spaces are used by all

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There were a couple of things that I'd realised I'd forgotten to write about in the suitable postings so I'll stick them in here.

Back in Villa de Leyva, one of the things I liked about the place was the evidence of "normal" life, the non- touristy stores and businesses. I forgot to mention a most unusual (to me!) business - the rental of washing machines!
The man had a motorbike/trailer combo (rigid) and a few battered washing machines in the back. On the side was a crude, hand painted sign advertising his machines for rent! Presumably folk rent them for a day or two at a time.

One of my favourite types of trees at night

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In Ráquira, one of the scenes that really charmed me was of a teeny tiny toddler in one of those circular walkers on wheels. His young mother was chatting to a friend while he zoomed around on the uneven path, she giving him a shove with her leg every now and then to keep him away from the edge. On my return walk he was now in the street - no traffic - and was zooming around everywhere. The street was very, very bumpy and his little wheels were struggling but he was loving every second of his expanded independence and freedom, his smile and his eyes the brightest I've seen so far in Colombia.

The Plaza at night - a magical place

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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098