The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 905 Monday, March 07, 2022, Tulcan to Reserve El Angel 34km Total KM 17264
Min meters 2986, Max Meters 3746,
Total Climb 914, Total Descent 166
Min Temp 10 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 21

Decisions, decisions....... And consequences! Part Two

What had been rough but passable became intolerably jagged with sharp, pointed rocks emerging out of hard-packed earth surrounded by lots of loose stone and rocks. If that wasn't bad enough it seemed entire scoops had been removed from sections of the surface leaving large dips, many of them filled with muddy water. When I couldn't see the rocks it was because they were covered in water, sometimes just in patches, other times covering as much as 30 meters of the road. There was no way I'd attempt to cycle through these loaded as I was with such a deceptive surface underneath.

After the first climb the landscape changed. The amount of life, of colour and variety crammed into a small space was phenomenal

​

I started to walk and ended up walking most of the last 10km of the day. This was definitely the most difficult surface I've travelled (excluding that horsetrack on the mountain). I can't believe that motorised traffic actually comes this way.

The Paramo landscape​

---

I'm sure some folk think that pushing a bike on a bike tour is heresy but I really don't care. I'm not convinced that I'm a cyclist so "traveller" suits me better. And walking and pushing is travelling. Besides, get a bike and ride Tulcan to El Angel and then talk to me about pushing!

It wasn't a hardship at all. The gradient was generally gentle, the most difficult part was dealing with the rough surface. My feet, while wet, were warm in their wool socks and the rain stayed away, mostly.
It was the landscape that really thrilled.

More life on the side of the road

​

It's hard to describe. I recall stumbling across this Paramo landscape in Colombia and being enchanted. Here it was on a whole other scale. I wasn't travelling past it - I was bouncing and toiling right through it.
It began with a closing in around the road. Banks of earth with all kinds of vegetation, but all kinds of different vegetation seemed to close in on either side. It was the colours that were so interesting and the sheer variety of plants side by side that was so impressive. Where there were no plants different hues of moss covered the ground like on a map where countries are marked out in different colours. Walking slowly not having to worry (too much) about falling over I could savour, gawk and pass in wonder.

An old tree trunk has been colonised and taken over by ...... Life and colour

​

Then the banks seemed to sink, the vegetation became lower and views started to open up. An army of those curious spiky topped little trees that had so enchanted me in Colombia were all around. In fact, these would be my constant companion the whole way along, sometimes hidden by the ditch but always there. And an army they were. Like of old, stretched out over valley and hill on silent guard, waiting for the battle to commence.. Sometimes as far as my (failing) eyes could see.

I do love this scene!

It was like I was in two (TV) channel land. On one channel rolling vistas of massed, peculiar, stunted palms while the other had close ups of ever varying, wild, colourful plants. It seemed that as I travelled along the hills moved closer and closer, an army advancing on top of me.
As the hours ticked along I became less mesmerised and a tad intimidated. I hadn't seen a human soul since my lunch stop and other than the sound of the wind at various bends I had heard two birds, individually tweeting.
Strangely, I could often hear water, so loud, so aggressive that I thought it was an engine approaching. Narrow, deep streams seemed to be gushing alongside the road at times, but hidden by the vegetation.
It was quite a strange feeling to be so alone in such a strange environment. I can't say that I was uncomfortable but I wouldn't describe myself as comfortable either. Eerie was the word of the afternoon.

The landscape is starting to close in on me. The silence is total. I haven't seen a human or a sign of a human since the top of the first climb.

Thankfully, the Touring God's laid on lots of entertainment for me in the form of the road surface. Regular puddles evolved into little lakes and then to rivers. Once my feet were wet it didn't make much difference but negotiating the longer, deeper puddles required caution as both my feet and wheels slithered from rock and stone to slippy mud. More than once I had to use the bike to restore my balance or face a muddy immersion.
I amused myself wondering just what might be in these puddles and lakes. I was in South America - aren't there piranha fish that can strip flesh from a bone in seconds? And that thing sticking out of the muddy water - is it a rock or the top of a crocodile's head? Sometimes a healthy imagination can help to pass the time.

A weird, wild, wonderful, wide view

​

In truth, and this sounds terrible, after a few hours I was becoming bored and starting to wonder about my accommodation option. If I couldn't stay at the reserve I'd have to go on to the next town, El Angel and frankly, on this road that could be hours away, downhill or not. Most likely in the dark.

I'm starting to feel a tad intimidated

​

I did try hopping back on the bike a few times but quickly got off again. Pushing was both safer and more comfortable. Finding a place to park the bike for photos was tricky - I didn't want to damage any plants - but I did find a place where I could both park Roccado and lie down. I ate peanut butter and bread and savoured a rest overlooking a silent, still army. Stopped, close to the ground I got to study up close another feature of this area - miniature trees. Not bonsai, but quite similar. To all intents and purposes a tiny tree with tiny branches and tiny leaves growing out of the moss. With one movement of my head I could assess the silent army in front of me stretching monochromatically off over the horizon and with another I had what seemed like the very representation of individuality, life and colourful defiance beside me. It really was quite special.

Soldiers standing to attention

​

I pushed on and eventually arrived at the reserve, or at least the gate of the reserve. Locked. Uh oh. I looked to where the road curved away and saw the familiar bad surface, checked the time, 16:50, and didn't like the look of my options. The place wasn't exactly Fort Knox and I could easily squeeze past the gate which is what I did, ambling up slowly calling out a suitably plaintive "Hola". No-one was around. There was a large one story building with attached toilets that were open and a large car parking space. While there was some grass there was nothing suitable for a tent and while the walls might give some shelter now that I was at the top of the road the wind had picked up. An uncomfortable night was in store with an early departure before anyone arrived. The tough part would be getting the bike and gear in and out past the gate.

An eerie landscape. A few days of this and I think I'd have to work hard not to go a little crazy

​

As I strolled back down the hill to the gate a motorbike pulled up with a man in uniform. Not long enough in the country to know if he was Police I explained my predicament. As it turned out he was a night watchman of sorts. Due to the Pandemic they couldn't host people to stay inside anymore he explained. Seizing on the "inside" I explained that I had a tent and could stay outside, that light was fading and I'd a long journey to the next town.
He said a tent would be fine.
He opened the gate and we both went up the hill. First thing on my order of business was to dig out the stove and brew up some coffee. The tent could wait. As is my habit I offered the man a cup and he seemed a bit shocked commenting that he should be offering me a cup! Intrigued by my Trangia we chatted as the water heated and he told me that really bad weather was forecast. A tent outside wouldn't do so he opened a room, usually used for meetings and presentations for me for the night.
And that's why I always carry an extra cup!
I was home and in comfort!


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Reserve El Angel to Mira 40km Total KM 17304
Min meters 2419, Max Meters 3812,
Total Climb 312, Total Descent 1596
Min Temp 7 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp

Small town Ecuador

For a night on a floor I slept very well in my sleeping bag. A bright security light outside was a bit disorienting but when I awoke at 5 am it made it pretty clear that there was no point in getting up to watch the dawn. Smothered in cloud I was. Back to bed then up at 6 to brew coffee, have some porridge and get organised. Once packed up I set off on a short hike to see the lakes. Eerie is probably the best description at that time of the cold, damp morning. It's a circular route and the second half of the circle - up to a viewing point before returning to the reserve building - advertised itself as for healthy hearts! Much to my shock I passed!

Plant life from my invigorating morning walk

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Back at base I said my goodbyes to the very kind man and rolled down the hill. For all our chatting he had never once offered his name and it felt impolite to ask. Given that he encountered me wandering behind a locked gate he was the definition of kindness and hospitality and blushed when I told him so. I was hoping that the road might improve but of course, it didn't. It was perhaps slightly better than yesterday in that there was a lot less surface water but rolling downhill on loose rocks is not a lot of fun.

The lake on my walk

​

After 8km the surface changed to cobbles. Oh. Dear. Lord! Walking was more comfortable.

Setting off the signs were ominous! I'd 13km (I think) to El Angel. It would take me two hours. Downhill!!

​

After 10km the surface changed again to hard compacted dirt. Oh, what bliss! There was almost no noise after all the rattling and bone-shaking of the last 90 minutes. Where the surface was damp my wheels whispered softly to me. It was glorious. And then it wasn't when the rocks returned.

Patchwork!

​

Once I hit the dirt road houses started to appear and with the houses, dogs. Some paid me no heed but the ones that didn't barked at the very least, most of them gave chase and some were too snarly for my taste.
My attitude and response to dogs has done a complete U turn since the U.S. where they seriously threatened to derail this little adventure. Admittedly, the dogs in the U.S. tended to be bigger and far more aggressive whereas here, outright aggression is the exception rather than the rule. At worst, they are an annoyance causing me to stop.
It's occurred to me that after my rabies shots I don't know what to do if bitten by a dog. Am I currently immune to rabies? Am I a potential cure to a rabid dog that bites me after my shots? In any case I'm being extra careful, often stopping and talking to them. What is particularly annoying is the dog that ignores me only to give chase when I've passed and another dog barks at me. At one stage today I had a dozen dogs barking at me but only one that was aggressive.

With the new phone none of the small plant photos came out well yesterday. This was today's attempt. While the vista might be eerie and bleak there were always little flashes of colour up close

​

I finally caught sight of El Angel and rolled onto a surfaced road! There were cheers. A blocked road due to roadworks couldn't puncture my mood and I happily waited anticipating food and coffee. Given that I was the only "traffic" being held up they moved a truck to let me past.

El Angel has the most amazing Plaza. It's stunning with barbered trees (I don't know the correct term), lots of seats and even seats under trees specially barbered to provide shelter. I spied a bakery with seats - yaaaay! - and got a coffee and a couple of croissants. Proper bread! Yaaaay!

That hedge running along the hill captivated me for ages! I'd left the Paramo landscape behind and was back in farming country

​

A nice looking town there was something off that I couldn't put my finger on. I bought some water and rolled out of town. In my head I had a long sweeping descent ahead of me to take me as far as I wanted to go. Ibarra is the next big town but that's up a bloody big hill - my tea leaves weren't suggesting that for today.

The problem was that my head hadn't taken on board all the detail. I had to climb before I descended. Not a big climb by any stretch but my body saw this as breaking our deal and made heavy weather of it, not helped by the fact that I was in my rain gear in anticipation of the descent and therefore too hot.
The other part of the problem was that I didn't like the road. A minor two laner with a shoulder unfit for anything it made me ill at ease. The surface was very poor but in a different way to Colombia. Regular parts of the surface had broken away leaving rough patches of various sizes maybe an inch deep.
The shoulder was unusable, below the road surface bordered by a u shaped water drain, filled with gravel, rocks, rubbish and broken glass that often stretched well into the road itself.
The land beside the road seemed to be full of overgrown weeds. Nothing interesting to see at all. In fact, it felt very urban, the kind of roadside vegetation common on the edge of towns draped with rubbish.
Untidy was the phrase that came to mind but the urban vibe made me uneasy. There were no towns nearby but knowing that didn't help. The four guys outside of Ipiales weren't far from my consciousness.

At last! El Angel! Down there there is a German Shepherd rounding up a stray cow and shepherding her back into the field. I could see no human

​

I was well cooked by the time the climbing was over and I pulled in to cool down before starting the downhill. It was on the descent that I realised just how hard it is to try to take photos in Ecuador. Perhaps it was just the dull, gloomy weather combined with the lack of stopping places and a new phone but I found it very hard to firstly find a good spot to capture a view then when I did the camera didn't do it justice.
The mountains, and in a lot of cases, volcanoes, seem to be much further away than in Colombia but larger for all that. The perspective is different to what I've become used to. The views are on a huge scale difficult for a camera to capture. Of course, trying to stay upright on a loaded bike on such a terrible surface meant that I was only catching glimpses since there weren't many places to safely stop.

Today's Rio after El Angel and the start of a climb was far below and furious!

​

I simply wasn't enjoying myself. Strange as it is to say I started looking forward to rejoining the Pan American because I should have a decent surface and a shoulder and a sense of security.

I pulled in to the small village of San Isidro and was immediately struck by how quiet it was. Again, a lovely little Plaza with barbered trees, an interesting church but no activity. People said hello unprompted but there were so few around it felt strange. I'd settled on having a coffee here but there was nowhere to have one!

I set off again and a little later rolled into Mira. Spying a bakery with a few seats I enquired about coffee. I got a mug of boiling water and a jar of Nescafé. Oh dear!

Outside I passed a pleasant twenty minutes chatting to a man about my bike, the trip and the different countries I had been in. They talk fast here too like the Colombians!

Mira was the last place that I knew had accommodation and with an ominous sky decided to call it a day. I found the little place alright. A simple, small room but a hot shower and WiFi. More expensive than Colombia it seems. Then out to explore.

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Reserve El Angel to Mira 40km Total KM 17304
Min meters 2419, Max Meters 3812,
Total Climb 312, Total Descent 1596
Min Temp 7 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp

Small town Ecuador; The Towns along the way

The Plaza in El Angel

Buildings and monuments in El Angel

Lots of interesting trees in the Plaza

Bunny rabbit statues in a small park beside the main church. I really liked them

The main church (bottom right above) was very bright and cheery

San Isidro, the centre of the small Plaza

Two sides of the three sided centre of San Isidro - the fourth side is the road

Inside the church in San Isidro, taken through a railing. I had to wait a good twenty minutes for an old lady to finish praying at the gate

Roadside decorations

More roadside decorations at the edge of Mira. They all seem to be celebrating local culture and life

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Mira

A wonderful, huge mural opposite the Plaza

The little church

The Plaza. This was where I figured out what is off in these places. They're like the "good room" on a house - the one that looks really nice but is never used. All of the Plazas I've visited so far in Ecuador have none of the vibrancy and life of Colombia. I returned again and again to the Plaza and there was never more than four or five other people.

Now this I loved!!! A huge, long mural on the road south.

Just some of the rest of the mural

A hodgepodge of architectural styles and conditions were on display

Community information about the local government now having a digger available to rent by the local community, an anniversary of an important council meeting and a campaign to neuter dogs and cats.
And bright, cheerful street signs

The wonderful cemetery with heavenly views. An old man saw me climbing up to take a photo over the locked gate and gave me directions to get in around the back!

Sunset

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 907 Wednesday, March 09, 2022, Mira to Home (outside Ibarra) 46km Total KM 17350
Min meters 1557, Max Meters 2435,
Total Climb 838, Total Descent 1028
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 31

Bless me, Father, for I have sinned.

The only good thing about my room last night was the hot shower. It was tiny and with my panniers on the floor moving around was a minefield. With relief I fell on to the bed. Then the fun started. The room faced onto a covered courtyard and just as I was about to fall asleep a light went on outside like a silent truck bearing down on me behind the frosted glass of the window. On and off. That was the pattern, it seemed, for most of the night. I can sleep through most things but silent truck headlights are not one of them.

I awoke for the last time very, very grumpy. I didn't even consider making coffee in such a confined space so packed up, loaded up Roccado and then couldn't get out. After much calling the woman of the house showed up and seemed surprised that I wanted to leave so early - it was nearly 8am for crying out loud!

Morning view over the rooftops. If I'm right (and I'm probably not!) that snowpeak over there is above the equator!! (It may just be a cloud )

I pushed up the hill to join the main road and did a little double take of the view. It was pretty damn impressive. Joining the main road on the edge of town I had a choice - turn back towards the town and seek out coffee or continue on down the hill. I knew there was a village of sorts before I rejoined the Pan-American. That would do.

The road was very quiet thankfully but the surface was treacherous. I'm used to potholes but this trait of sections of surface missing is tricky. Without my mirror I feel more vulnerable when weaving between them - the wind rushing past my ears blocks out all noise. Stopping safely was tricky with few places to lean Roccado.

The interesting and the even more interesting.... They do seem to go in for roadside decorations in Ecuay.
Don't underestimate the trickiness of that surface on a fast, curvy descent.

​

The views were amazing though as I descended towards what was to all intents and purposes a desert. To add to the perfection of the environment there wasn't a trace of a rainy cloud anywhere to be seen and the sun was blasting down on me. By rights I should have been celebrating Ecuador but I just wasn't feeling it.

It is really difficult to capture the scale of what I am seeing

One of the good things here are bus stops - solid, covered, permanent structures perfect for a touring cyclist to stop at. Spying one, I pulled in and made peanut butter and banana sandwiches. A bit of fuel helped but no coffee.

Descending into the desert. My poor body is taking a real battering going from heat to cold, pouring rain to dry. Travelling in a vehicle all that sensuality is missed. (Lucky Ba$tards)​

Down I went and passed the village of Mascarilla metaphorically kicking myself for not making a cup of coffee back at the bus stop (water was scarce) because there was nothing available. I had no urge to wander off the main road to explore - I couldn't see either a spire or a tall tree that might indicate a Plaza - so pulled up to take a photo of the town name. A couple of people waiting at a bust stop and a young fella walking the road inspired anxiety in me that had me pushing on as quickly as I could. I don't like feeling this way.

Today's río surging through the desert on an important mission. I'd actually be accompanying the río for a while and irrigation channels were furiously carrying water along to large fields of sugarcane

I rejoined the Pan American, a big, new four laner, split with minimal shoulder and was pleased to see little traffic. A Police checkpoint gave me the opportunity to stock up on cold water, not a trace of coffee to be had - Oh Colombia! You have spoiled me and I miss you so!

The Pan American again and I'm in Steinbeck country! Another little dream achieved

For a few Kms the road was rolling and slightly upwards, then the road reverted to only two lanes with a decent shoulder and the climbing began.

Desert!

By now everything had changed and like Colombia before, I was left amazed at just how quickly things change in this part of the world.
Yesterday at the same time I was labouring up high in damp, cool weather, rain never far away, the countryside wild with (almost) unique mountain top vegetation adapted to cold and damp while today I'm in a desert with cacti. I do not move fast on the bike and it is simply mind boggling to me how things change, not just visually but sensually as well. With the sun blasting down on me it was hard to imagine the damp cold laying siege to me the day before just waiting for a crack to invade my bones. The wonder of bike travel!

Fruitful Cacti

Unfortunately, my head wasn't in it and then therefore neither was the rest of me. This wasn't a steep climb by any means but I was struggling. Everything felt heavy - from the bike to my legs. In my defense it was hot - the temperature would hit 42C and I was travelling at the hottest part of the day. Now two lanes, the road seemed busier and from a security point of view I felt safer even if it meant that trucks and buses barrelling through had me wobbling about in the shoulder. I didn't have a tremendously long day ahead of me but the end seemed very far away.

Shade, at least on my side of the road, was almost non existent so spying some on a bend I pulled up until the sun moved and I lost it. Off I went again. I told myself I had done longer, harder, hotter climbs than this but even as that monologue droned on I knew the problem wasn't physical. Too much energy was being diverted to a gnawing anxiety. I was feeling uncomfortable on the road. That's not good for a bike tourist.

Looking down on the Pan-American

Spying a long stretch of trees offering shade beside a little irrigation channel that was bursting with self importance I pulled up and laid down. This rest had three objectives: to rest, to give time for the sun to move and offer more shading later and to face down the anxiety building up. The plan worked reasonably well. To give you an idea of the temperature, Gizmo was reading 42C when I pulled up. After an hour or so in the shade he was down to 24C! Once I set off again he rose steadily up to 38C.

I set off again after about an hour and attempted some switchbacks, the steepest section of the climb. To add to the fun a pretty strong wind from the North hammered me on the turns forcing me to walk for safety's sake. That wind was unnoticeable as I laboured upwards with it behind me!
Of course, with switchbacks came great views of my road below me and the road looked particularly well from up high. My hope for more shade had been in vain and I could feel myself crisping up nicely.

Getting close to Ibarra in terms of Kms if not meters, I pulled in to a substantial roadside restaurant. I could do with coffee, food and water but they only had water - a display bottle that had the dust washed off before being handed over. It would have to do. This wasn't a roadside shack or covered table but a purpose built restaurant with a large (but unequipped) kitchen and separate dining area. They just had no food!

Ibarra is supposed to be an interesting, Colonial town and I had a couple of options. iOverlander had a German campsite out of town beside a lake or I could get a hotel or hostel in the town itself. Ecuador is more expensive than Colombia, especially for accommodation so that's a factor. The thought of rain in the tent was not a positive one and the ease of a central room for a couple of nights appealed over a tent outside the town. The campground, though, was on my side of the city.

Looking down from even higher. The life brought by the río is plain to see

​

Before Ibarra proper, I was directed off the road into a little town. I found the small, neat but empty Plaza near a small basic church, bought a cold drink and made more sandwiches in the shady Plaza. Bliss.

Looking at the ridiculously steep hill Gizmo wanted me to cross - through a residential area that before was nothing to me but now makes me nervous - I opted to return to the main road and try a different route. That worked, bringing me along the lakeshore on a dedicated and separated cycle and walking lane network. Out into the country I went and higher, past a motor racetrack, past a Glamping place until I saw some flags sticking out of bushes on the road.

I pulled in to be greeted by a large, rotund, heavily beared German and when I had a chance to look around I realised I could have been in Germany - a place very close to my heart.
A menu of German favourites, a formidable German beer list and a real feeling of home. I may be in Ecuador on the adventure of my life but right then, right there, a little feeling of home was exactly what I needed. It's probably sinful for a traveller to reveal in such a feeling but it is what it is.
Home! And I won't be rushing away!


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Days 908-910, Thursday March 10 - Saturday March 12, 2022, German campground outside Ibarra

We forget. Or at least I do. The things we like, enjoy. The things that please us and make us feel good. Too often we can forget. Then we don't do the things we like or enjoy. We're busy. Not in the mood. Too much hassle. An unhealthy circle.

Well, I'd forgotten a few things as I was approaching Ibarra. I forgot how much I enjoy camping. I forgot how much I love Germany - its culture, its food and its beer. I'd forgotten how much I miss Germany. I've visited Germany several times every year for close on 20 years. The last three Christmases are the longest time I've not gone to a German Christmas market in those 20 odd years.
I really wasn't in the mood for camping. There's been a lot of rain. And a German campsite in Ecuador. Come on! How German can it be?

It was so strange how the sight of this fridge both excited me and made me feel at home. Most of those beers are old friends, Warsteiner is an old enemy (ferocious hangovers!). I've sold them, drank them and have a story to tell about most. Beside the fridge are bottles of Gluhwein!

Well, I'm a Dumbass!

From the first moment I had the most overwhelming feeling of being home, in a familiar place, comfortable and safe. By sheer chance Hans, the proprietor, happened to be at the gate as I rode up. A warm welcome, a quick chat, a quick tour - pitch pretty much anywhere and I returned to the "beer garden" for a much needed proper coffee.

Bratwurst and bratkartoffelen. There were tears in my eyes eating this one. With a locally brewed Kölsch (Ecuadorian water, everything else German) I could close my eyes, taste and be in Cologne.

​

The authenticity of the place is unreal. German beer gardens are no stranger to me and I could have been in any one in Germany. The beer selection is German, about 50 different beers and the menu is all German.
Everything works. Each pitch had power , WiFi covered the whole area. There was a washing machine and hot water in the shower. Simple. Functional. Reliable. German.

Sunset. It's better in the flesh

​

The campsite is located on a lake just outside of Ibarra. The lake used to be full of fish and the pleasant green colour I noticed on the way in is why there are no more fish - contamination. At weekends, the lake is alive with paddle boats and the shores filled with families walking, cycling, picnicking - just being together. There's a big volcano overlooking the lake and at night the sky turns red and pink as the sun sinks beside it.

There's one little community along the lake and this is their pretty church

There were two other couples camping. An older French couple, very friendly but with poor English. I was chatting to French people in Spanish in a German campground in Ecuador! I cannot describe just how chuffed I am with myself!
They are travelling the Americas in six month blocks in a campervan. Six months over here, find a place to store the van, return to France for children and grandchildren then resume the adventure the next year. What a fantastic way to organise things!
The other couple are American, about 50ish (I can't bring myself to write "about my age") and have plans to travel the world in their van with their two cats. They're quite big in the "Van Life" community on YouTube (I may be a featured guest!). Apparently successful they reassessed their life and decided to head off - after a lot of preparation - in their self designed and fitted out van.

The lake. The water looked magical but is highly contaminated. The sun and clouds playing their games on the hills was like a huge, open air TV screen

It was very pleasant to talk with other travellers who had a similar mindset to my own. No conversations about the price of drugs in different places, where to get drunk the quickest. Or what places had the best parties.

That was a breakfast!

​

But. The. Food!
I didn't stop smiling the whole time I was there. I was either eating, looking forward to eating or enjoying the satisfaction of a good meal well savoured. I wrote about in CDMX finding the little beer and sausage place. This was on a whole other scale.
I'm not even going to try to describe everything because I couldn't do it justice. What was amazing, however, was that the girls working there changed each evening so my food was prepared and served by a different person every evening. There was not a single discrepancy in quality or presentation. A German restaurant in Ecuador using German ingredients but local staff. That's not an easy thing to achieve. But it was done excellently.

That be a volcano! The thought kept nagging me that I was a bad, bad bike tourist for going to Ecuador and camping out in Little Germany. Feck it. The road delivered what I didn't even know I needed

​

Like a child at Christmas eyeing up all those gifts under the tree each evening was almost an overload of pleasure. I knew within ten minutes of arriving I was going to stay longer than the one or two nights I had "planned". Every evening I'd sit down and eat, drink a beer or two and decide to stay another night. It was that good, that special and that much like "home".

There's an unusually long list of reviews of the place on iOverlander and it's clear to see why. Hans has an extra dog that he is taking care of because the owners had to make a sudden return to Europe. There's a number of vans parked up, either regulars who come over every year or people who had life happen to them and had to change plans. I missed only by a couple of days a Belorussian who has left his van there, flown to Ukraine to get his family out and then will fight the Russians. Of course, during the Pandemic the campground was host to a huge number of people hunkering down while the world went a little crazy. If you need something, it seems that Hans knows a guy. For long termers on the road a place like this is a godsend.

Hans. Friendly, helpful, and a great host. He came to visit his son who was volunteering here about a dozen years ago, went hiking, returned to Germany and asked himself what he was doing. He came back, bought some jungle and set about making this little piece of Germany​

---

​

My mornings passed lazily, propped in my chair having brewed up a pot of coffee. Three dogs would drop by to say hello. I'd read a book, write up my notes, sort out my photos and generally relax.

A slightly more rotund yours truly with Maria, a very young, incredibly enthusiastic and motivated waitress/cook/hostess. Being a Sunday they wore traditional German garb and the place was very popular with locals.

One afternoon I took a wander around the lake, another I went into Ibarra. Another "White City" with Colonial architecture and lots of it it has quite a few Plazas. On a Friday afternoon it was making quite the impression on me. Unfortunately, I was on the bike and there are a lot of cobbled streets making exploring a bumpy, uncomfortable business. I noticed very, very few bikes parked anywhere and was wary of leaving Roccado out of my sight for too long. With such a pleasant city made so difficult to explore I decided to spend my last night (whenever that might be!) in the town and even checked out the rate and availability in a decent looking place. Satisfied, I then sat down in one of the Plazas to watch and soak up what I could of a large Ecuadorian town.
Nada. Nothing. Zip.
There's a serious lack of soul, of heart, of activity, of life in urban Ecuador.
One man with a toy horse and a variety of hats for kids to take photos on and nothing else. Not a vendor to be seen. A handful of people spread through the Plaza but no life, no vibrancy. I changed Plazas. Ditto. Even the market area was remarkably calm, though busy. After hitting just about every shop I managed, at last, to get another mirror for the bike. Ipiales had messed it up beyond my McGyvering skills and I lost it bouncing down to El Angel.
I waited around as long as I could - darkness would fall and dark clouds were swirling - sure that a Friday evening would be a jolt to the town. Nothing.
I returned to the campsite about ten minutes before an hours long downpour and decided that there was no point in spending more time in the town. Pretty, certainly, but not my kind of place. A little German enclave in Ecuador was!

If I got bored of the food ( I didn't!) the views weren't bad either.

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
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With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Days 908-910, Thursday March 10 - Saturday March 12, 2022, German campground outside Ibarra

Ibarra

Just one of the many Plazas in Ibarra. Well maintained, pretty, colourful but so, so dull

Interesting art on a building

A great explosion of green amidst the traffic

But no life......

An old market building, restored, and now a cultural centre. But closed!

A smaller, three sided Plaza. There are a lot of churches!

There wasn't a huge amount of art but this caught my eye

A lot of attention and care goes into the public spaces ...... But ..... There's no soul

Churches!

Various styles of architecture

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads

I was up about 7am and brewed a pot of coffee as I set about getting organised and packed. A lot of dew falls here so the tent would need to dry out and the sun wasn't quite high enough yet. In any case, I was in no rush.

Once everything except the tent was packed and loaded I had my last meal at the campground - a delicious German breakfast. Saying my goodbyes took a while and the YouTube folk wanted to do an interview. Finally I was ready to go but was really of a split personality. A part of me really wanted to stay! I told Hans that I might get to the 15km mark and then turn around!

Leaving the wonderful campsite and riding along the lake. I really, really wanted to stay!

​

I set off around the lake and immediately into a stiff hill. My first problem. After rain my gears can be sticky and I couldn't get close to engaging Granny gear. That was nearly reason enough to return!
I loosened everything up and continued. My first objective was to get past Ibarra, not something I was looking forward to. On Friday it had been busy, steep and no shoulder. Unladen it was tricky so I was hoping Sunday might be easier.

It was. I negotiated my way in, through and out of the (edge of the) town safely and stress free. On the six lane highway after Ibarra it became less pleasant. Despite the space and relatively light traffic many stayed in my lane keeping me along the white line beside a particularly nasty drain. Because of traffic lights the traffic was bunched so I stopped for each bunch.
Thankfully, I didn't have to do this all day turning off at the town of San Antonio de Ibarra and taking the backroads.

Ibarra. A very pretty town, especially in the sun. But it left me cold. Not a city to be alone in.

​

Because of my late departure I was travelling in the hottest part of the day and the climbing I had to do started now. Spying shade on the footpath and a steep climb I hopped onto the path and pushed in the glorious shade. Pushing in a town is normal for me - it lets me see everything - but other than the shade it was pretty pointless here. The street was lined with furniture showrooms and not a lot else.
An older man stopped me for a chat and I passed a very pleasant quarter of an hour. I was in no rush and Washington was very pleasant and complimentary about my Spanish. I'm a sucker for compliments.

It doesn't look like much of a road but it was to lift my spirits

The Plaza was a bit of a disappointment, open and lacking people. In fact the whole town was very quiet and finding a place for a coffee and a bite to eat proved fruitless. I eventually had a coke and some pastries in a bakery. I'm finding Ecuadorian towns soulless and lifeless.

Onwards and upwards on a backroad that would run parallel to the Pan American with regular connections if I didn't like it or enjoy it. The surface was variable, traffic was light but often bunched and even though I found the climbing very tough in the heat I really started to enjoy myself.

Passing through agricultural communities and lands

​

For a start, there were little communities all along the road, usually where there was a connection down to the Pan Am. Between these communities a lot of people were walking. Not walking (I think) for recreation but to or from somewhere. Usually family groups or individual, older folk and to a man they responded positively to my greetings with pleasant words, smiles and eye twinkling. Sometimes even a sympathetic nod when I was labouring hard.
A lot of people, mainly the older generation are wearing traditional dress often featuring that blue colour that I first noticed back in Silvia.

The buildings are interesting in Ecuador.
First impressions are that Ecuador is wealthier than Colombia, or at least has less poverty. The houses along this road (and generally) are of sounder construction than I have seen in Colombia, are bigger and are often more ostentatious - by that I mean they are more than what is purely necessary. Balconies are common but more stylish than the other side of the border. Elegant columns are common. Along here a lot of big, fancy houses were in various states of construction.

Looking down on the Pan Am. No thanks!

​

Spying a tree ahead I grabbed the opportunity for shade and plonked myself down under it to pass half an hour. I'm practically on the equator, I'm up high - the sun is pretty powerful! All day I was to pass dogs on this road and this was the only time that one barked at me. In fairness, I had plonked my ass not far from his gate so after a few minutes of asserting his authority that I ignored he gave up until I had rolled past his gate and then he saw me off properly!

That be a volcano!

​

When I continued the road was more rolling, but always trending upwards. At least I had the occasional flat section or even a gentle descent to catch my breath and cool down - there was a hefty wind from the North.

A very pleasant day's cycling with some big houses under construction

I passed through a biggish town with wonderful art and an interesting church but, again, soulless and little activity. A solo female cyclist passed me and then waited for me to catch up for a chat. Another Feckbook friend.

A roadside monument which I took to be extolling the church and a small community church above the road

​

By now I was nearing Otavalo, a famous touristy town which would be my end point for today. Before there, however, there was an opportunity to camp at a famous waterfall and I wanted to check that out too. The Peguche waterfall has been developed into quite the tourist attraction by the local indigenous community with stalls and a car park, walks and hikes through the countryside and a place to camp at the princely sum of $1.50. The ladies kindly relented on their rule that no bikes were allowed and I pushed the 500 meters or so to the camping area. Most people were packing up to go home so I sat tight for a while to survey my options.
There were a type of flat topped stone pyramid, one with a thatched roof, a couple of mud floored shelters and open grass. With dark clouds all around I commandeered the spot with the roof, brewed up some coffee and set up the tent. The toilet block closed at six and after that I was on my own - or so I thought.

The view from my tent. (This was taken the next morning - my evening was gloomier!)

At first the rain was light but as it got heavier the thunder started then the lightning. The temperature dropped significantly and the thatch leaked. I made a dinner of noodles and then enjoyed the amazing sight of my old friends the fireflies lighting up the whole area around me in the wet.
As I stood there with the sound of rain falling through the trees (and through the leaking thatch onto my tent) the wind swirled above but below each flashing firefly seemed to reflect off dozens of soaking, green blades of grass, each one creating a "sparkle zone" that was reflected as far as I could see. Beautiful, tiny pockets of sparkles in the darkness. Then a flash of lightning turned the world a silvery blue, the tall trees appeared as black monsters for a moment until the darkness smothered them and as my eyes adjusted the sparkles emerged again.
Cold, wet, but far from miserable.

Mi casa

​

Tucked up in bed well before 8pm I slept well until about 2 am, awoke, heard the rain still falling then rolled over for more sleepy time.
Home may be in a strange place with strange bugs in a thunderstorm but it's home! Spirits well and truly restored.



**See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads; The Towns Along the Way

San Antonio de Ibarra

A mural beside the church

A surprisingly pleasant church (above)

The main Plaza in San Antonio de Ibarra. Closed!

Another little church

Not everything is in good nick

Iluman. A small town close to Otavalo. I arrived just as the town seemed to be getting ready to go home. There was a strange vibe and the first drunk people I've seen on a Sunday in a long time.

A small town church

​

**See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads; The Art Along the Way

Sorry!
After Ipiales I was still riding with a bit of anxiety. The interesting road, the responsive people helped soothe my mind. But the Art really helped the process.
It's very difficult to be too anxious with so much human expression in regular, clear view.
The art deserves its own post.

Homework for @cwskas

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 912 Monday, March 14, 2022, Peguche waterfall to Campground near the feckin' Equator! 38km Total KM 17417
Min meters 2568, Max Meters 3110
Total Climb 660, Total Descent 540
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

@netman:
Equator camping
Osmand: 0.00367° N, 78.17296° W
Google: Camping "Mitad Del Mundo"
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ThH1whp39gXjwVCA8

Serendipity

I didn't take a look at the falls last night so after brewing my morning coffee* I took a stroll up. I could hear the falls all last night and they were only a few minutes walk from my tent. Pretty impressive from a distance the sheer force and power of them as I got close was a surprise.

* On the subject of coffee..... I'm down to my last couple of brews. I bought that coffee in Popoyan before Christmas! For some reason a kilo cost the same as a half kilo and frugal me couldn't resist the bargain. I include that to shock the weight weenies!

The surprisingly powerful falls. Except for when the thunder rolled last night they were a constant aural companion.

I packed up, dried and cleaned the tent as best I could and headed off. The ground was made of uneven but smooth rocks. The rain during the night had filled all the gaps between stones creating a sort of Venice under my tent so the floor of the tent was quite wet. The toilet block remained locked despite being told yesterday that they'd open at 6 am (something I thought unlikely) and headed on out. Thankfully, another toilet block at the entrance was open and being cleaned. I pointed to my muddy shoes apologetically but the lady was very pleasant. Relieved in all kinds of ways I took the backroad to Otavalo.

The little Rio running away from the falls

​

Otavalo is a famous town, home of the largest Artesenal market in the Andes. It did nothing for me! I am a bad, bad cycle tourist!

I arrived and first on my list of priorities was a coffee and a bite to eat. Preferably in the Plaza. Not a chance.
The Plaza is certainly pretty, elegant and well maintained and at this early time of the morning has a lot of people starting their day but it is just so sterile. Not a soul selling coffee. Or anything. In fairness, at a smaller Plaza some ladies were selling breakfast but the Colombian habit of consuming the same meal three times a day seems to have stretched into Ecuador. A plastic bowl of chicken with salad and a boiled egg did not appeal.

Taken to demonstrate some of the big, extravagant houses that are more common now

Instead I plumped for a $2 (Two Dollars!!!) coffee and a toasted sandwich of mass market bread, processed cheese, processed ham and two thin slices of tomato that only served to wet the bread. It was one of the most flavourless things I've ever put in my mouth. And I once kissed an Englishwoman!

The buildings are beautiful, well maintained but after the air of neglect and chaos in Colombia it seems odd, unusual and holds little appeal. In Colombia it made sense that the buildings were a little neglected - everyone was too busy living. There was character. Soul.

The Pan Am. Some people dream of riding this "road". I was one of them. It varies so much from place to place that there's no consistency. I like to stop and tell myself just what road I'm on to remind myself just what I'm doing ...... then look for an alternative

I didn't look for the market. Bad tourist. I've seen a lot of the indigenous products stretching all the way back to Mexico and I always feel bad looking too much because people are trying to sell - and I have no intention (or ability) to buy anything. After a Pandemic when tourists are few I feel especially sensitive to raising hopes and wasting time.

Nice scenery, though

I climbed out of the town and back on to the Pan American. I didn't really have much of a choice in the matter. I'd have preferred to take smaller roads but there were none - at least none that didn't add significant Kms.

The road was big, wide but had a generous shoulder that made cycling comfortable. Spying a restaurant advertising breakfast I pulled in - a bland toasted sandwich wasn't enough - but their idea of breakfast didn't match mine.

Another restaurant a little later did and I sampled some of the local biscochos - crispy, dry biscuits - with cheese (surprisingly bland and rubbery), scrambled eggs and a big, big mug of decent coffee from a very pleasant and friendly lady.

As roadshots go this one isn't bad

​

There was a fair bit of climbing and the sun was hot. Very hot. And prickly. After being inside, or after the rare time the sun emerged from behind a cloud, I could feel my arms start to tingle for a few seconds under the power of the sun. On such a cool, damp morning I'd forgotten to apply sun cream to my face so now I was wearing my facemask to protect my nose. I made use of the odd bus shelter for a bit of shade. It may seem lazy but sustained time in the sun really starts to make me lightheaded. And this is a very strong sun. It was sitting at one of these shady spots that I realised something was missing. Something that has been a constant companion in the Latin part of this trip - a colony of ants spread in a line transporting all kinds of things. Where are the ants?

I have been totally spoiled because I thought the scenery was just ..... Meh. In lots of places it would be wonderful but today it was just meh. I'm a terrible bike tourist!

The mountains (volcanoes?) change as the clouds move overhead. It's very, very pretty

In any case my mind was elsewhere. The Equator was just down the road (actually up!). As is my way, as it loomed up it became more significant, more exciting. With it came the idea that this was the end too. The Equator was the reason I was here. Had I stayed in Colombia I'd have had to have left by yesterday. I pushed that thought into one of the dark recesses of my mind and pedalled on. And up.

At the top of the climb I pulled in to a restaurant for a coffee - a package deal with more bizcochos and bland cheese - real coffee and a big one I'm pleased to report.

Volcano!

Then there was one of those moments of serendipity that always seems to happen. First, one familiar face, then another peered around the door. Simon and Vicki, the Austrian couple I'd met back in the Casa de Ciclistas in Medellín! Sometimes sticking to the big roads has its advantages! And having a big, ugly flag - that's what they noticed!

After what happened to me in Ipiales I had made contact to warn them (and also the Casa) but they hadn't enjoyed Colombia like I did and were already in Ecuador. Somehow, slowcoach me had overtaken them!

The same shot as above. Somehow the six lanes make it seem far, far away. ​

---

​

We set off together and there and 912 days into this trip I knocked something off my list that I'd forgotten about - cycling with someone else! (Sorry, Willie, Austin doesn't count!)
We learn things about ourselves when we cycle with others. My big lesson is that I'm slowing down - on the descents! They took off and were lost from sight on the bends. I have vivid recollections of hitting 70+kph in Spain but these days anything over 50 makes me nervous and the brakes come on! On the flat and the climbs I held my own.

With a cheap, basic camping option near to the equator we stocked up in a town and found the place.
Another pleasure. Setting up camp with others. A totally different experience for me. A well experienced team it was interesting to watch the teamwork and organisation. My tent floor was very wet from this morning so needed a bit of time in the wind and fading sun to dry out.

Simon & Vicki set about preparing dinner for the three of us, I brewed coffee and later provided the vino tinto to wash it all down. My second vegan meal of this trip. It's difficult to describe how enjoyable the whole experience was. Obviously it's very enjoyable to have a good meal prepared and handed to me, but having company in what would otherwise be an empty corner of a field was quite the experience.

If there wasn't a bloody big volcano just out of shot I could be in Ireland!​

---

We chatted until well past my usual camping bedtime and were comfortably in our tents when the rain started. Home - with amigos!

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 912 Monday, March 14, 2022, Peguche waterfall to Campground near the feckin' Equator! 38km Total KM 17417
Min meters 2568, Max Meters 3110
Total Climb 660, Total Descent 540
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

Serendipity; The things along the way..

A church in Otavalo

Another "Rocket" church on the main Plaza in Otavalo

Some nice art

The impressive local government offices

I passed a couple of coach makers along the road

Punta Loma. I must be getting very old but I took one look at those tents on rafts in the lake and thought "Mosquitoes"

There seems to be a stronger sense of community in Ecuador. These smaller towns are predominantly indigenous and they seem to work on a goal for the community. Yesterday was the waterfall and park. Today it's Jurassic Park! Indigenous clothing is very common (at least amongst the ladies) and people seem more prosperous than in Colombia.

An interesting statue hiding the church in Cayambe

The church without the statue. I liked the colours

Art in Cayambe

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 913 Tuesday, March 15, 2022, Campground near the feckin' Equator to Tababela 51 km Total KM 17467
Min meters 2495, Max Meters 2792
Total Climb 752, Total Descent 910
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 23


Crossing the Equator!

It rained most of the night but stopped a bit after dawn. I woke up in great form. I had company and I was going to cross the equator!

We all emerged from out tents at about the same time and set about our morning routines - coffee and oatmeal. We took our time, both tents needing to dry out and set off.

Yep! That's snow! Atop the Cayambe volcano

​

The Equator was only a few Kms down the road and cost $3 to enter! At least this was the "official" Equator! Apparently, there are other places that lay claim to being on the equator but they're not - including one a quarter of a km up the road! If anyone is that way inclined there are 37 equator monuments around the world. Now that would be a bike tour!

There was no-one there (except for the guy taking money who gave a short lecture) so we had it all to ourselves. In an example of the Serendipity of the road I had Simon and Vicki to take my photo!

It's a very rare event that I am comfortable posing for a photo like this. I wasn't just comfy, I was filled with happiness! What a journey and how feckin' lucky am I????

Willie (cwaskas) had given me the most gaudy, bright, tie-died t-shirt from a Texan sandwich place and the idea had formed in my head when I turned south (again) that a photo of me in the shirt at the equator would be a fitting end to the trip.
Willie has been a constant companion on this trip since he joined in when I was in Texas. In lockdown in Mexico he was in regular contact offering whatever he thought might help - including an offer of a Calvin & Hobbes book - in Español. For my vaccine run to Austin he put himself completely at my service. This photo would be my (inadequate) thank you to the big hearted Texan. It's not often I look forward to my picture being taken but this one I did. And as luck would have it I had people I knew to take the photo.
The Touring Gods are looking out for me!

Simon & Vicki. They weren't even supposed to be here! Covid had cut short their plan to go East. The closest I could get to 0 on Osmand was 0.00001° N, 78.17498° W (Gizmo doesn't show coordinates as far as my quick look could tell)

​

I'm not a great one for celebrating milestones. I have found that oftentimes reaching the destination is an anticlimax. I enjoy the journey more than the arrival. Like reaching the Pacific, though, this felt great.

The Equator!

It's just a line. But for me it represents the end of one thing and the start of another. I was so happy that I took this figary and instead of heading for Bogota and a plane I gave myself one more journey. An eventful journey, to be sure, but one that I'm not going to forget.

We set off again and we'd be splitting up soon. Simon's parents are flying in for a couple of weeks and they'll have a couple of weeks of luxury away from the bikes. I was heading south to Cotopaxi to camp one last time, then turn around and head for Quito.

A "fake" Equator. I noted the sign for Spain - the Equator wasn't the finish line - it was the starting line for something completely new!

​

We stopped at the town of Santa Rosa de Cuzabamba where the road split, had lunch and said our goodbyes. I can't believe my luck in meeting the two of them. I then set off into a rolling day along a poor section of the Pan Am. The only advantage was that it was cool. A healthy cover of cloud kept the sun off me most of the time. I stopped at a couple of towns off the main road and just could not process how dead they were. Pretty? Yes. Colourful? Yes. Interesting architecture? Yes. Good Plaza? Excellent.
But lacking in the life that I have become so familiar with and so comfortable in. Perhaps this is the Touring Gods' way of reintroducing me to Europe.

Interesting landscape and look! Other cyclists!

​

I was feeling a tad conflicted as I rode. I felt a strong urge to visit each town, spend a bit of time, try to get a feel for the place but, on the other hand I had set myself a tough target to get to Cotopaxi, camp and get back to Quito with enough time to organise my travel. It also dawned on me that the notes I've been preparing for Spain are all in Google! And gone!

New, yet familiar plants on the descent after the Equator

I'd contacted a place on iOverlander about a camp spot but no response had been forthcoming. Instead I found a cheap place in a small village on Booking and booked it. I'm tracing the edge of Quito so accommodation is not cheap.
When I arrived no one was there so taking advantage of a grass parking area I set up the tent to dry it out. An hour later still no-one around and out in the country there was no-one to ask. I called the number listed on Booking to no answer. Finding a sign with phone numbers I had success with the second to be told they had no rooms for tonight! I was furious! As I was packing up a woman came out (having ignored the two times I rang the bell) but she was of no help. I was lucky in that I had passed another couple of options so I went to one nearest the main road. Too expensive, we haggled until I was satisfied and had a glorious hot shower.

Here's the problem with Ecuador - scale! While Colombia had its fair share of epic and grand vistas I'm finding that the Ecuadorian ones seem more removed

Later lying on the comfy bed I worked out my schedule and realised I was cutting things very tight especially since it seems I will need a COVID test to enter Spain. The road to Cotopaxi is highway all the way - and the same road most of the way back. I decided to sleep on my options.

The ill-fated hotel.

​

Home. On the other side of the Equator!

Sunset's pretty, though

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 914 Wednesday, March 16, 2022, Tababela to Tambaco (Quito) 16 km Total KM 17483*
Min meters 2326 Max Meters 2589
Total Climb 144, Total Descent 331
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 25

The End (of Part One)

I had a fitful sleep. Something wasn't sitting right with me and that filtered into my sleep. I knew when I woke up I wouldn't be going to Cotopaxi.

Quito. One of those places that sounds so exotic, so different, so strange. The closest Capital city to the Equator and the second highest Capital in the world. And I'm going there on my bike!

​

It's Wednesday. My flight is on Tuesday. That's six days. I'll need two days to get to Cotopaxi, a day there and two days back. One day to get organised for a flight? I think not.
No time to see Quito? And a gnawing pressure as I cycle? No thanks.

As cycling goes not the greatest day on two wheels but not the worst either. The sign is telling me that my shoulder is going to disappear!

There is a Casa de Ciclistas in a suburb of Quito near to the airport. Hans (from the German campground) knows the guy but told me he doesn't like Social Media. I have an address from Google Maps but no contact info. I do not want to arrive unannounced.

No shoulder but traffic in waves. Not the bestest but not the worst, either

Thankfully, a request on a Facebook group came up with a number and I called this morning at a reasonable hour.

Tumbaco. The last stop.

Santiago, the host, was unbelievably kind. Because of the Pandemic they're closed but an exception will be made. A bike box is not a problem.

The Parque/Plaza

I'm going to Quito!

The Plaza is pretty, has some people but is typically Ecuadorian - quiet. For love nor money I couldn't find a coffee!

The last one of these for a while.....​

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This is Tiger. Then there was Atty and Luna. Three dogs to keep me company. ​

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* I know somewhere that @IaninSheffield is banging his head against a wall wailing "could he not do another 17km??"


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Odds'n'ends


Inca Kola from Ecuador. The closest thing to Iron Bru that I've come across but no sugar and no calories. AbSoLutely Vile!

I just love how tyres are recycled here!

That's on a busy footpath (Eciluador). There is never a dull moment when I'm exploring!

A hand washing station with International sponsorship. Ditto at the border. A number of countries (all European) "sponsor" the border crossing

Another lethal hole in the footpath! If I fell in it would be up to my shoulders!

Irrigation along the Pan American bringing water to the sugarcane fields

In each country there are subtle differences to the road. In Ecuador some of the rain gullies were terrifying!

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See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/