The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 835 Monday, December 27 Popoyán to Silvia, 52 km Total KM 15366
Min meters 1742 , Max Meters 2605
Total Climb 1422 Total Descent 662
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 19

Making a strong push for Dumbass of the year!

I'd set my alarm for 4:30 for an early start. I wanted to beat the rush hour which my host had told me was hellish. I switched it off, dozed for ten minutes then got up fighting fit and went to make coffee. The Touring Gods were looking out for me with a bright, sunny morning. Wait a minute? At 4:40 am? Nope! 6:10 am. Oooops!

Leaving Popoyán the road was decent and I had an excellent shoulder .......... most of the time. That hole is so deep that I could jump into it and my head would be under the surface of the road. Never a dull moment!
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I had my big breakfast and chatted to a friendly French couple who had just arrived and slowly got organised to leave. Having missed the rush hour (just not the way I intended) I made it out of town fairly easily. This was my first time seeing the place in sunshine and it really does improve things. Don't let my negative impression put you off.

My plan was simple. Out on the PanAmerican, turn off and up to visit Silvia a village reccommended to visit then downhill by a different road back to the PanAmerican and head towards Calí, stopping where I like. I'd a quick look at Osmand which was seriously overstating the climbing required but I'd looked more seriously at hospital availability along the way. I'll be needing a third rabies shot on the 29th.

Off the PanAmerican I was back into quiet countryside. I've been spoilt lately with epic views but this was a very pleasant reintroduction to the road. The contrast from hectic to tranquil was instantaneous.
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Out of Popoyán the road improved and gave me a usable shoulder. Not exactly bliss but not bad since traffic was fairly consistent. There were a lot of rolling hills, lots of ups and downs and views were limited but the sun was shining and all was good. There's something about being back on the road.

A whingey, moany climber I did little today
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I pulled in for a cold drink and to get some phone credit and experienced one of the problems of using a touchscreen phone with sweaty fingers. Opening my notes app to get my number I accidentally deleted the last three digits! Uh oh! That's the only place I have it written down. I tried calling customer service but that's all automated and there is no option for "I need to find out my own number" 😊. I tried to "recharge" online (they give internet for that) but they won't accept my credit card. Frustrated and about to give up I noticed my number displayed at the top of the page of the website!

I'd a cold drink, hit the road and soon came to my turnoff. I did have a quick rethink - straight ahead was easier and quicker but I saw all the traffic continuing to Calí and smiled to myself as I left it all behind.

Getting some height and looking back on Popoyán
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Pretty much straight away I started climbing and the countryside changed. There was landscape with a small "l" all around. There were hills, big hills admittedly, not mountains. There were trees, shrubs and bushes different to previous days and pretty to make up for a lack of scale. The landscape was not huge, not distant, not epic but extremely pleasant to cycle through especially in the sun.

Then I came to one of the issues of the day - a descent. Pleasant, certainly, but all those meters would need to be regained. I'd reckoned on a 400 meter climb by my own calculations so settled back when the climbing started again.

Colourful, smart but small houses were placed regularly along the road. No villages or even settlements just random houses along the way. This is farming country and that was emphasised that every second or third house had a horse tied up somewhere around.

Now this is how to announce your town! You can see that it is still being created but that rain has caused the artists / workers to down tools. They're out of shot sheltering under big sheets of plastic over a simple wooden frame. In typical Colombian fashion the town is a few kms away
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Dogs were a nuisance today. Lots of little feckers yapping and chasing. They look at me going past and then set off in pursuit. Their yapping sets off the dogs in the next house. It's just annoying. The worst example was a shock because it was so unexpected. A woman sitting on a high embankment was chatting to another at road level, her hand gently resting on a fine looking shepherd/retriever cross. The scene looked so peaceful I even smiled at the sight. Until I passed. Then the dog took off in the same direction as me, got ahead, turned around and came straight for me. A frontal attack is pretty rare. I looked behind but the woman was studiously ignoring the situation.
I stopped, got off the bike and as is so frustrating the dog backed off but continued to bark from a close distance. Eventually he stopped and I headed off again.
I just want to emphasise that these dogs are irritating - nothing more. I'm probably a tad more cautious in terms of stopping than I was two weeks ago but there's no anxiety anything on a par with the U.S.

Up higher I was in pine country. It seems like ages since I saw Pine trees (but in reality not) and there was a wide variety of them dotting the landscape. I like Pine trees.

I came to the edge of the town of Totoro where I needed to turn off. Tempted to stop for a coffee and snack I noticed the time - heading on for 3pm - and figured it wiser to continue. I only had about 20km to go. By now I had realised that maybe Osmand hadn't been so wrong with its calculations. Taking the turn off at Totoro I had climbed 999 meters! It looked like Silvia wouldn't be a diversion but a destination.

The road was excellent! Concrete slabs with narrow grooves and practically no traffic. There was even a descent! Great riding through rich, interesting country. Then, with 13km to go the surface disappeared. Uh oh. Progress wasn't much faster than walking pace so I was delighted to round a bend and see concrete! Unfortunately, that didn't last and with 11 km to go I was back to no surface. The rain which had been on and off now became permanent.

Uh oh!
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I had thought that when I skipped a snack in Totoro that I had maybe an hour to go. Now half way there it looked like at least another hour. In the rain. Uphill.
If I thought bouncing around on bare rock was bad I had about 500 meters of fishtailing through pure, deep gravel. The bedrock was gratefully received when it returned!
Taking advantage of drizzle as opposed to rain I stopped for some bread and arequipe - I needed energy.
Setting off again the rough surface distracted me from the gradient but it was slow, tough going. The perfect test for my repaired rack braze on.

An interesting bridge on the edge of Silvia. The white pillar at the back lists the (three) visits of the "Liberator", Simón Bolívar. Every town records proudly any visit. Ironic given that I've read that at the time if his death he wasn't exactly popular.
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It was with huge relief I arrived in the little town of Silvia and headed for the Plaza and church.

Today's Río was intriguing. The muddy water wasn't brown, it wasn't yellow. A matt golden colour is the best way I have of describing it. I found it captivating, a golden río flowing easily through rich, green, sparkling vegetation.
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I was the centre of attention in this very indigenous town. I grabbed a coffee and congratulated myself on actually making it here before darkness fell. That road in the dark?? Not worth thinking about. Then I set off to find some accommodation.
I had done no research having not expected to overnight here and Booking had one place that was too expensive. A big hotel almost opposite the Plaza was closed. I headed along the main street checking out the side streets. A large hostel was closed. Two different hospedajes ditto. I found a deceptively large hotel that had a tiny presence on the street but extended hugely at the back. Very pricey for what I got but beggers can't be choosers. I had a hot shower - bliss - and headed out to explore.

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Unfortunately it was dark when I got back outside. I paid a visit to the church wanting to see the crib but with a mass going on I grabbed a coffee, sat in the Plaza and wrote up my notes. It was damp and cold. When mass was over and the very few attendees had left I hopped up and headed over only to see the big doors swing shut! The Big Man / Woman wasn't cooperating with my plans!

Unhappy with the price I'd paid for the room I opted to save some money on dinner. I bought an avacado, some bread and chocolate for dessert. Back in the room I ate avacado and tuna sandwiches. Surprisingly strong wifi meant I could enjoy some Youtube and I fell asleep later perhaps than I should have. (I was watching the GCN video of Backpacking in Colombia and thoroughly enjoyed it. I found it very realistic in terms of my experiences and was very satisfied (and a little smug) when they both commented about how slow they were going!)

There's always a splash of colour. Going uphill the rain is fine since I'm not cold and it brings a wonderful, vital sheen to everything - except me! I tend to become bedraggled ^_^
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So, after oversleeping, underestimating the climbing on a grand scale, not bothering to check the road in advance and deleting my own phone number the last bit of a push for Dumbass of the year was that all the cycling had aggravated the dogbite on the back of my knee.
It's blatantly obvious now that constant pedalling will stretch the area where the bite is and a gentler, flatter day would have been smarter. But where's the adventure in that?^_^

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 835 Monday, December 27 Silvia

I had been very excited last night arriving in Silvia. It was another one of those places where I instantly felt comfortable despite being a clear outsider. It's a significant town, famous for a weekly market and traditional clothing still worn by the locals. A vivid blue, woolen cloak is the garment of choice and men wear a skirt to match!

Setting up for the market in the Plaza. In bright, clear sunshine the town looks so different. Under the tent on the left you can see the bright blue, woolen clothing specific to this area
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I tend to get a lot of stares in these places - stares I interpret as curiousity and nothing malevolent. Last night pushing down the main street watching out for a place to stay and just enjoying the atmosphere two teenagers were staring intently across the road at me. Two male teenagers staring as night is falling would put me a bit on edge but here? Not so much. I raised my hand to salute them and called out greetings across the road. Big grins, big waves and a brief, loud conversation across the street and the motorbikes. Now everyone knows where I'm from!

I saw this mural last night but in darkness and with lights bouncing around all over the place it was impossible to photograph.
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There was a lot of street art that is so common in these places but night time meant that I couldn't really capture it. In fact, had I not been thinking of a rabies shot and the logistics of the New Year celebrations coming up I could very easily have stayed another day. It wasn't anything that I saw, it was just the way I felt.

Just "normal" houses.....
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I may be the slowest here but a quick test suggests that this will work.
Type murales + town into Google and click on the images tab. You'll get to see what I missed or can't photograph properly 😊

The view down to a roaring río from my unusual hotel last night. I could hear the river all night long
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The Crib when I could finally get into the church. It's beyond my ability to capture the whole thing properly but .....
I ❤ the fact that it takes over the whole altar
I ❤ the backdrop for effect
I ❤ that there is always, but always a water feature!

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Bathrooms with flying horses!

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Two buses but how many colours?^_^
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L: Resistence, Revolution, Seed, Change
R: Peace begins with a smile

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On a corner so difficult to photograph. I find the detail amazing
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Public transport can be fun ....... Until it rains! And motorbikes! Everywhere!
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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao, 78 km Total KM 15444
Min meters 1125 , Max Meters 2608
Total Climb 770 Total Descent 2176
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 25

I just can't stay off the PanAmerican

Eating dinner in the room last night had been such an uncomfortable chore that I abandoned my plan to make breakfast and instead got packed up to leave. Unfortunately there was no-one around to let me out the back gate. The alternative was to drag bike and bags up about three flights of stairs distributed around a complicated building. I demurred and went out the front door for breakfast.
Spying the church open I snuck in for a look at the crib. Fabulous!
I had a mediocre breakfast of eggs and coffee and returned to the hotel. Someone was leaving as I went to ring the bell - I rang it anyway to no response. Eventually the old chap who checked me in last night showed up to let me out. 8 am and I was on the road.

Looking back on Silvia as I was leaving town. What an idyllic place on a bright, sunny morning!
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Colombia continues to amaze me! Compared to a wet, cold and dark arrival I was leaving in a blaze of sunshine - it was a whole other world!

Ever-changing Colombia!
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I was feeling a bit of pressure to get to Santander de Quilichao about 70km down the road. It's a biggish town with a hospital and I wanted to arrive early enough to locate the hospital and find somewhere closeby to stay. The sun, though, and the beauty all around me soon trumped that anxiety. I had about 20km of this road before hitting the PanAmerican - I was going to make the most of it.

Looking back on Silvia. Considering that it was only supposed to be a place to "pass through" and a reason to be off the highway I could have stayed longer. It's one of the few places I feel that I'm leaving behind, not properly explored....
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I had a bit of a climb before I could start my descent. A few kms out of town I came across the Welcome to Silvia - sign? Sculpture? I don't know what to call it other than impressive! Slowing down a few yappy big dogs got excited by my presence but a man outside a closed restaurant got them to behave. I pulled in a little later and walked back to photograph the scene. More barking! This time I was invited in for coffee by the friendly host as his employees got ready for the day. No payment would be accepted. Some folks have a natural affinity for hospitality work. Others don't. It's never too difficult to figure out who's who.

Wow! Just wow!
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A little further back local symbols
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Setting off again I had a long, gentle descent that was almost perfection. The views weren't the best I've seen, the road wasn't the best either. It was just incredibly pleasant. I barely needed to touch the brakes so gentle was it. Riding a bike today was nothing like riding a bike yesterday!

The Valley, taken from the (closed) roadside restaurant. Given a coffee and freedom to roam this was all mine!
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This is tricky to explain. The wall is actually the side of the road and this is taken from a small path used by locals to walk to the restaurant (and paths to a few farmhouses from there) from a layby that buses use to pick up and drop off passengers. In other words it's all but invisible to the passing, non-local world. I found it stunning for such a hidden location

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Silvia....again! From the restaurant
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I'm having q bit of difficulty with the new forum software, especially in relation to the pictures - it's harder to work with them in the new layout and I don't seem to have a preview function.

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 

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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao, 78 km Total KM 15444
Min meters 1125 , Max Meters 2608
Total Climb 770 Total Descent 2176
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 25

I just can't stay off the PanAmerican Part Two

There were a couple of climbs, long and hot but always another descent, each time getting steeper and faster. It wasn't fair - just when I wanted this section to stretch it was getting shorter!

A road that I didn't want to leave......
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I had a by now common conversation with a chap on a motorbike who was very animated by my bike. He had a friend, Carlos in Chile, who would be even more excited - could he make a video? Sure, why not?
We pulled in, out came the phone and I apparently became the talking equivalent of the Duracell Bunny - there was no shutting me up! I still struggle to understand what people are saying at times but I am finding it easier and easier to express myself. That always feels good.

The church in Piendamo. The Butterfly appears to be a common Christmas image, something I find exotic and charming
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Arriving into the town of Piendamo signalled the end of my pleasant road and I was vomited back on to the PanAmerican. After green there was grey, after fresh, mountain air there were fumes and smoke, after birds singing and chatering there were trucks and buses roaring, rattling and honking. After being king of the road for a while I was a serf. Another world, again.

And this is the reason I wanted to stay on the smaller road!
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I'd a bit more than 50km to go, generally gradually downhill but with quite a few short, sharp climbs. I had a shoulder that was rarely poor so I was comfortable. And that's about all I can say. There was little to see and that probably was no bad thing - the road was busy in both directions and distraction wasn't advisable.
The climbs killed me though! As the day wore on and I got lower it got progressively warmer and more humid. Humidity and I do not get along!

There was some interesting scenery though and a sky that could be unsettling
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I stopped a couple of times, once for lunch, once for coffee. I could have stopped more often but there was a nagging buzz to get there as early as practical.

Lots of greenery.......
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I've often commented on the life that exists in these roadside towns and Santander de Quilichao could be the poster boy! It was chaos on arrival! The town is mainly to one side of the highway but it swarms over the two lanes consuming the PanAmerican with stalls, people, motorbikes, dogs and noise. The chaos continues on the next couple of streets away from the highway too.

The Plaza. Lots of greenery and places to sit but a stone's throw away and chaos reigned supreme!
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My information was that the hospital was close to the Plaza so that was job one. I found the Plaza - no coffee - then around the corner to the hospital. I spoke to a guard who told me I'd need "Urgencias" around the block. Once that was located I found out it was open from 7am. Now for a place to stay.

The simple church
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iOverlander had a place but it was further out of town. I'd prefer something closer. Google showed a place and I set off through the craziness and the one way streets. I can walk to the hospital from here (I'd rather not leave the bike outside the hospital like I did in Rosas in such a big town). Home again.

And an example of the chaos!^_^
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Up close and personal with the Plaza.
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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao

The Art along the way

I thought today was a remarkable day for the art so please indulge me as I try to document it here......

The "closed" restaurant that offered me free coffee had a wonderful, huge, painting (mural?) on the floor of a large terrace or viewing area. With the bright sun and little angle it was next nigh impossible to photograph properly. Just how it was done on a logistical level was a mystery to me. It featured birds, plants and animals. Here's Oso the bear...

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The locals are very creative in announcing their towns and villages in these parts
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"We are the generation of Peace"
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"Mondomo is pure pleasure". Mondomo is a few houses scattered along a busy road but you've got to admire their confidence!^_^
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A very long sculpted mural (my verbal creation). Clearly coffee and the arrival of a train has had significant impact here. I think the detail, work and effort speak volumes and the focus on history is refreshing
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The Plaza in Santander de Quilichao had some simple, three-sided, redbrick minitowers that were used to display the following paintings. The "tile" effect is only an illusion. In such a busy, noisy place they speak to a respect for art. And of course, not a bit of graffiti or vandalism.

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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 837 Wednesday, December 29 Santander de Quilichao to Santiago de Calí, 53 km Total KM 15497
Min meters 988 , Max Meters 1085
Total Climb 70 Total Descent 135
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

A rabies shot for breakfast, dinner in the big city

I was at the hospital before 7am, chatted to a security guard and was let in. I spoke to a lady, showed her my forms and was told to take a seat. For an hour nothing happened other than the place started filling up with people in various states of disrepair.
Then a guy came over to me and explained that I was in the wrong place, that I needed to visit a clinic a block over. They'd have the injection but if not then I should return.
I located the clinic and joined the queue outside. When my turn came the woman explained that they didn't have the shot either! She told me that I could get it in the Centro Salud de Nariño but couldn't tell me where that was. "Take highway 11" was all she could tell me. Not even a distance. Mightily confused because Nariño is another state (department) I tried looking on my map apps but not knowing if it was in the town or somewhere else was not helpful. I asked for more info but none was forthcoming and there was a queue behind me.
I returned to the Emergency Room, was recognised by security so got back in. My plan now was to try to get confirmation of where they had the vaccine and then to go get it, preferably on my route. Calí has a population of 2.5 million. I didn't fancy trying to get it there at the end of my day.
I tracked down the same guy from earlier, explained the situation and was told to take a seat. A quarter of an hour later he was back, yes, they had the vaccine! Another quarter of an hour I was two thirds of the way through my rabies treatment and back on the street. This time there was no charge.

I didn't even bother to take a photo on the big, split highway. I just wanted to get some kms under my belt. This was after Villa Rica and I was back on a two laner with a very decent shoulder. No, it's not exciting!^_^
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I grabbed a disappointing breakfast went back to the Hospedaje and set off into the chaos Gizmo telling me it was about 10am.
I was a tad apprehensive having read of a cyclist robbed along this stretch but the road split into 4 lanes and a very wide shoulder. Traffic was light so I powered along as best I could. My goal was to get to Calí as quickly as possible. I had disimproved over the course of the day after my previous (double) rabies shot and the last thing I wanted was to be arriving during the evening rush hour, tired and a bit zonked by the meds.

Not exactly inspiring landscape in fairly heavy humidity. Moving, a headwind kept me cool but stopping was uncomfortably warm. That's sugar cane by the way!
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I'm back in the flatlands now which means relatively dull scenery and a lot of heat and humidity. Gizmo rose rapidly from 25 to 33C but a very hefty headwind kept me cool.

Today's río. The guys in the boat were at anchor and either dredging (unlikely) or harvesting the riverbottom
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Coming to the town of Villa Rica the road split and my four laner reverted to two lanes with a narrower (but far cleaner) shoulder. This was where the traffic really picked up and with more than 30km to go I was just a cork bobbing along in a surging río of traffic that lasted the whole way to my hotel.

No shoulder and a whole lot busier.
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I lost the shoulder with about 20km to go which made for an interesting approach to the city! It wasn't pleasant but in all fairness the traffic was fine even if the motorbikes passed a little too close for comfort. It's a long time since I've travelled in traffic like this for such a sustained distance.

I'm not a fan of big city riding but with a bit of patience it was actually ok
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Gizmo directed me off the main artery to the centre and after negotiating a flyover or two picked up a cycle path that in typical Colombian fashion came and went. To add to the fun a few heavy drops of rain started falling from the angry, grey sky and thunder started rolling. I'd half thought about heading for the centre first just to scope things out but the sky encouraged me to head straight for my hotel.

A pretty decent cycle path helped
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With about 1km to go the rain became heavier but I pushed on and arrived at the hotel. As I was checking in the heavens opened. Luck, it seems, is still on my side!

There is always an interesting tree!
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A few days off in the "big city" to pass the New Year celebrations and give the bite a chance to recover some more. I think I've underestimated it with my focus on the rabies shots. When I leave I'll be heading back into coffee country and more climbing.

I'm going to try to track down a homestay / Workaway place where I'll get a place to stay in return for labour. A coffee farm sounds idyllic😊


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 

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OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

I was out of practice. I didn't recognise the approach. The question "American?", the falling into step with me, the subsequent questions and general chatter then the "Cocaine?". I was actually shocked - I'd forgotten all that along the way - and appalled. He quickly stopped his offerings - there must have been something in my tone - and left me alone but not in peace. I was disproportionately angry and it took me a while to figure out just why.
It's because now I have to be sceptical of everyone I meet- again. Here, the odds are that a chance conversation with a random stranger is neither chance nor random. And when I leave this metropolis of 2,5 million people it will take a time to readjust to the smaller places and I know I'll have to detox before I feel as comfortable again.
Something was stolen from me in that interaction - my comfort.
Welcome to Calí.

Calí is the Salsa Capital of the world. There were a lot of these characters knocking around
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I'm not the biggest fan of big cities and as time rolls by and I get older and grumpier I seem to like them less and less. Or maybe, just maybe, I got to live in one of the great metropolises of this world and am spoilt and corrupted for ever more.

The Main Plaza. Beautiful Palm trees but quite small and disappointing. It may just be the time of year
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My Colombian Guide book isn't great when it comes to Calí just listing hostels and restaurants. Google Maps showed me the museums (all closed - now there's a surprise!^_^) and besides, I'm here for a few days, am in no rush and wandering is my preferred method of exploration.

A church at the Main Plaza. This was a real problem for me - so many interesting buildings were located in enclosed places and narrow streets that it was difficult to appreciate them
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Now, I was doing my wanderings just before and after New Year which ocurred at the end of the Calí "Fair", an annual festival with lots of open air parties and performances so my timing was off to experience the real Calí. It also coincided with public warnings of an overstretched health system!

The río Calí with the famous and striking La Ermita church in the distance
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I'm a 90 minute walk from the historic centre of Calí, a walk that is never boring with lots of art, crazy traffic and the possibility to detour through a couple of different neighbourhoods. Not a walk for the dark though.

The Artesenal Park Loma de Cruz. It looked interesting but was pretty much abandoned for my time in the city. Located at the edge of the touristy San Antonio district which was itself pretty dead too.
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The truth is that Calí, to me, seems to be made up of separate and disparate villages that a big city has grown around. The historic centre is actually quite small and unimpressive. Apart from a few significant buildings and a so-so Plaza it quickly becomes just another crazy Colombian town.
With a lot of poverty.

There is an incredible amount of Street Art and graffiti everywhere. It is quite overwhelming.
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There are homeless people everywhere, often sleeping right through the day on the footpath. The stench of urine can be overpowering at times in some underpasses. Indeed, the stench from some of these people can be just as overpowering.
My hotel is in a "good area" on a street of well to do houses and businesses. The next street over though a man has pitched his tent and is living there, a discarded armchair outside his tent.
The río Calí that runs through the centre and has a park or a path along most of it is home for a lot of folk. Taking a photo that doesn't include some homeless people is difficult. It's also a place for them to wash, a weir further out of the city proving a popular laundry and washing spot. Requests for money match requests for food in popularity, a surprisingly evocative request.

A Plaza/Park close to where I was staying. For most of the time it was empty.
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I tried my best to "like" Calî but I was finding it difficult. Other than my first day exploring most businesses were shut so even getting a coffee could be a chore. Sitting over a coffee and watching the world go by is a great way to get a feel for that world and I was missing out.

I liked this. It appears to be the Three Wise Men (Mary, Joseph and a baby are further along) but included is a baker!
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An unusual looking horn. There's actually music coming out of it!
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A different angle on La Ermita. There's a lot going on in this scene and it sums up Calí for me; the interesting things are hard to pick out
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To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

Part Two

On my last day wandering around it finally dawned on me what the problem was - there was nothing luring me along.
Normally when wandering I see something interesting and head for it. I'll see something else (or someone) and change direction and soon I've little idea of where I am but there is always something new to draw me in a particular direction. I could walk 30 or 40 kms in a day in CDMX in such a fashion and never feel tired.
Not here.
There's lots of street art and graffiti but so much as to be almost overpowering. The most visible architecture is dull and uninteresting. The interesting architecture is hidden in enclosed Plazas or narrow streets. Even the most prominent landmark, a snow white church that looks like something from a fairy tale is a bit dilapidated up close and personal - better appreciated from afar.

A bus stop. Don't generalise. Do you believe everything you hear about Venzuelans in Colombia? Discover the real stories!
624885
Calí is the Salsa capital of the world and there are no shortage of places offering lessons - at least at other times of the year. I don't think I'd have been signing up for lessons anyway. My poor heart is still set on learning the Tango in Argentina (someday) and like languages, I can really only handle one at a time😊

This is a regular house's crib!
624884
Closed shops, cafés and restaurants mean that there are less people about and without people I can't get a feel for the place. The few people I've interacted with in stores and a café are very friendly and helpful yet the staff in the hotel, a step up from my usual standards, are sullen, unhelpful and sometimes downright rude.

The San Antonio neighbourhood. Narrow, steep streets and some interesting buildings
624886
I did stop at a burger place, the kind of place that I'd normally avoid, partly because there were few places open and partly because I felt a little sorry for a young, very timid waitress who had been despatched to the street to drum up business.
It was a fabulously interesting little place with a slightly mixed up 80's theme incorporating American and British decorations. An old US gas pump and the toilet was in a old UK phonebox. Giant Rubik's cubes were used as tables and the musical themed menu (I had an Aerosmith burger) was presented on an old record. Great, quirky detail. I could even ignore the Union Jacks emblazoned all around.
My poor waitress seemed stunned that she had a customer and was clearly very nervous. No doubt she was too shy to object when she was sent out on the street to drum up business.
I complimented her on the theme, told her I loved the menu and got very excited when the napkin holder arrived on the table - made from three cassettes! She proudly explained to me what they were, "for music" she added helpfully making me feel very, very old!^_^

Calí skyline
624887
Conversation was slow, starting with a "Where are you from" and slowly building up as I told the story of my journey. There's something very rewarding about watching someone take on board the details and a light coming into their eyes. The conflict between a natural shyness and an expanding curiousity was amusing and a little heartwarming to watch since the curiosity was winning.

The church in San Antonio. Up a big hill and sorrounded with a park that always had some activity. Simple and basic I much preferred it to the ornate La Ermita.
624888
Here's the thing. In a big city, especially one slap bang in the middle of New Year's festivities loneliness is the issue. Human contact is rare. The festivities late at night aren't for single people, or at least not this one. I had hoped there'd be enough going on to distract me but that was dashed early on. My hotel room was modern but tiny and wifi was variable. Being out and about wasn't great but neither was being "at home".
More evidence to back up the charge of the world's worst tourist ^_^

The mountains are not far away and parts can be very hilly
624889
I did get my beard trimmed since the Grizzly Adams look is not comfortable in this heat and replaced the chain on my bike. I snapped up a new cassette as well while I had the chance but haven't needed to use it.

I did like this mysterious building
624890



Who does vandalism of the public transport benefit?
624891



The Park below the church in San Antonio. Feeling pretty uninspired and unenthused I passed a very pleasant afternoon here reading my book.😊
624892



Some interesting architecture and colours
624893


To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

Part Three

The graffiti artists of Calí claim that it is the centre of the resistance. A lot, and I mean a lot of the art and graffiti is political. Here's some of it.....


Stop the genocide
624894



Johnny lives! The struggle goes on
624895





For the sake of humanity get Trump/Pence out already
624896




With your insults to homosexuals* I build a world of colours
624897

* I've cleaned up the language even though I prefer the original



Look at how beautiful my Calí becomes at peace
624898



82,998 people disappeared.
624899





No fans of the Police
624900



For context, heavy handed Police action against someone accused of selling alcohol to minors over New Year's inspired thousands to riot in a suburb of Calí

624901




If you, the youth, don't assume the running of your country nobody will save you (or possibly it - the country).
624903




The most powerful of all. I'll leave it to you to figure out.
624902


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 842 Monday, January 03, 2022 Santiago de Calí to Buga, 76 km Total KM 15573
Min meters 973 , Max Meters 1061
Total Climb 324 Total Descent 308
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 28

Ooooh! That back on the road feeling!!!
Sometimes you just gotta put your faith in the road - it'll deliver.

There was no point being up too early. Thundering rain was falling about 5:30 am and breakfast (included in the price) only took an hour to organise - that was good because yesterday it took two.
I was going to head towards Buga, a town renowned for being pretty, and I had three options;
The obvious one was on the Pan American. Big road big traffic. The second was a smaller road along the foothills of the mountains passsing through a few towns and villages. The third and final was into those mountains. There's a lake that way that I may pay a visit to but I do need to be careful of not getting too close to Puerto Buenaventura - that's a bit of a crime hotspot. This morning I opted for the road through the foothills. I wanted towns. Small ones.
I opted for a car route to get me out of Calí. The news this morning was of riots (involving thousands) over the weekend and I didn't fancy venturing far off the main roads as a bike route would do.
Route chosen I loaded up and set off.

Street art in Yumbo. There was something very bright and vivid that stopped me in my tracks and mafe me take out the camera for the first time.
625057
With time off for Christmas and New Year I haven't been feeling like a bike tourist for a while. Throwing my leg over and pushing off I became aware of fluttering in my belly and welcomed the little waves of "back on the road" excitement.
Those gentle little waves became a maelstrom, an out of control twister when I entered a tunnel and found myself in the middle lane of five when two more merged with my road. Oh dear! It was not pleasant but in fairness a yellow cab (of the type I have been so disparaging) stayed behind me for most of the way and shielded me. When they changed lanes near the exit the next car was just as kind. After that I could utilise a bike path (and received lots of kudos from other utilitarian cyclists) for most of the way and 10km after setting off I was out in the countryside and smiling.

Not a bad road at all and with a decent shoulder once Calí was left far behind. There were some very interesting trees all along the way
625056
I had a shoulder that at times was perfection and at other times was full of mud or debris but I was in no rush now. Tunnel aside, the exit of Calí was relatively swift and smooth.

Coming up to the town of Yumbo I was humming and hawing. There was about 20km on the clock but it felt too early to stop. I'd earmarked Vijes, another 20km further along for a stop. After all my time in the mountains an 80km day can seem very long and I'd only covered a quarter of that distance so far. The smart thing would be to stick to the plan and stay on the road. But..... my touring head wasn't sitting right. I turned off.
It didn't take long at all. Parked up in the Plaza, a coffee in hand from the ever present bakery I was engaged by one, then another of the motorbike taxi men and then soon all the bike and car drivers.
I pulled up a stranger in a strange town and in minutes I'm chatting and laughing and joking with the locals. Touring head locked on!

Not exactly inspiring but certainly pleasant to cycle along. In truth it was great to be zipping along at a reasonable pace after so long slogging it out in the mountains
625055
I set off again now heading for Vijes, about another 20km down the road. I was flying along the heat and humidity tempered by a decent headwind and my own speed. It's great to be pedalling and eating up the kms. Good for the soul.

On the far side of those hills there's a lake, Colima Lago. That's a speed trap van on the side of the road
625061

Vijes was smaller and neater than Yumbo and my human interaction came from my coffee lady instructing her young, hesitant colleague to squeeze the last of the coffee from the flask.

An unusual roadside memorial. I saw something celebratory in it. It reminded me of México
625054
Then back on the road again. 40 klicks done, more than half way there. And another town 30km down the road if I want it.
The scenery was interesting and varied if not spectacular. The road was rolling, the climbs surprisingly steep and slow meaning I felt the heat but the descents were fast and cool. Traffic had lightened significantly a little after Yumbo where there was a turn off to the airport and I think a connection to the Pan American.

Río Cauca which gives its name to this entire valley. That "island" is actually floating downriver
625059


The only problem now with the traffic was the high proportion of garbage trucks and trucks carrying garbage (not the same at all!). The stink was unbearable. That slightly sweet, cloying smell of rottting refuse filled my nose and was so pungent I thought I could taste it. It had been an issue since the outskirts of Calí but it took me a while to figure out the source and now, in open countryside with a stiff breeze it seemed stronger. Thankfully after 25km I came across a dump and lost the trucks travelling in my direction, only having to deal with (a lot less) coming from the other direction.

Not epic but certainly interesting and pleasant
625053

With about 60km on the clock I came upon the town of Yotoco just as some heavy raindrops started to fall. With a blue sky ahead I decided to push on to Buga, now about 15km away. My road merged with another linking the port of Buenaventura and traffic picked up significantly but I had my shoulder. The rain stayed, but light and it was so warm and windy there was no point in putting on my rain jacket.

Sometimes there were glimpses worth stopping for
625052
On arrival in Buga I headed for the Plaza and had a coffee. My coffee lady did a variation of where I was from by asking what language I spoke and I wasnt a mouthful into my coffee when a man was over to chat about my trip. I had no idea where I was going to sleep but I knew I was home. Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great!

Lots of trees with character. On a sunny day they would be a godsend
625058



More trees!

625060


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 842 Monday, January 03, 2022 Buga

I tried to locate a hostel mentioned a few years ago on iOverlander but failed to locate it. There's no shortage of hotels though, so picking one at random I made an enquiry. A decent secure courtyard for the bike, a functional room with a fan for me and I decided to take it. I might be able to save myself a couple of Euros by hitting up a few more but I was filled with an urge to explore. I checked in, had a cold shower and set off.

A park on the edge of town that I had all to myself!
625063
Buga is a prosperous town evident by how long it took me to find a place to get credit for my phone. And it has a lot of churches! It's a lot less chaotic than the towns of late and invited exploration. It didn't disappoint either.

A typical street in the town. Neat, orderly, paved. One of the easiest towns to walk in for quite a while
625070
It is one of the oldest towns in Colombia, at one stage was the place for the wealthy Spanish settlers to .... settle and these days recieves about three million pilgrims annually.

One of the oldest towns in Colombia and a base for wealthy Spaniards it has some interesting architecture
625062
It's calmer than most places of late and walking is easy - the streets are paved and in excellent condition, the footpaths the same. Relatively flat there are no dizzying heights either. Civilised is the word that comes to mind.

A wonderful, soulful and spooky tree in the main Plaza
625071
A long queue to enter a church piqued my curiosity (not enough to join it though) but I continued my rambling to an almost empty park beside a river. Captivated by a huge, powerful tree I crossed the road and met an unofficial guide who took it upon himself to explain about the tree (more than 650 years old!) in some detail. Friendly and with no intention of looking for a reward for his explanations it was a very pleasant experience.

An open air crib beside the basilica.
625064
I toddled down the road and climbed the "lighthouse" a local monument that gave views over the city. Then along the river and a pleasant riverside park. I was thoroughly enjoying myself.

The mighty tree! I may just have to accept the fact that I appear to be incapable of capturing a tree with any kind of accuracy. This tree gave off an aura of power, of strength. It was tangible. After wandering around Calí searching for something, anything to draw me along I found what I was looking for up the road.
My impromptu guide is sitting under it chatting to another guy on the motorbike.
625069
I meandered back to the main Plaza and had another coffee my young coffee lady instantly recognising me in my street gear and instructing her colleague how I liked my coffee - large, black and with sugar.
The Plaza was thronged and it was just comfortable sitting and soaking.

An aerial view of the town
625068
More wandering, then a disappointing bite to eat then off for a final coffee and slice of cake at a bakery. More chatting and fun with the girls serving as I stumbled over the name of the pastry.

A crib scene along the Río. What's amazing to me is the delicacy of the figures and not a trace of any vandalism.
625067
Rain had cleared the Plaza so when I was finished my coffee I had it all to myself to write up my notes.

There wasn't a lot of street art but what there was was pretty good
625066

I'm back on the road and it feels great!

The famous Basilica and end point for millions of pilgrims every year. I'm probably far too snobby but I'm appalled by the night time lights that change colour
625065

As it turned out that queue at the Basilica was for a painting of Christ, reputed to have miracle granting qualities. Thanks Wikipedia!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 843 Tuesday, January 04, 2022 Buga to Andalucía, 41 km Total KM 15614
Min meters 991 , Max Meters 1048
Total Climb 144 Total Descent 136
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 31

I'm an ungrateful bike tourist whinging about the Pan American!

I like a hard mattress but last night's was just ridiculously hard. I think I awoke at some stage and seriously considered putting my sleeping mat on the bed!
I awoke to the sound of pouring rain so rolled over for another snooze. Today was going to be an easy day.

Leaving Buga, one of the most civilised towns in a while.
625296
I'd considered going up to lake Colima back aways and camping but the campgrounds were away from a town and needing access to a hospital I was afraid that a lack of the vaccine would leave me under pressure given that I'd be a long way from another town. Instead I was going to head north to the small town of Andalucía which had both a hospital and a hotel. More small town Colombia!

When the rain stopped I wandered down town for some brekkie then another coffee in the Plaza. A pleasant, relaxing start to the day.
Still cool I had a pleasant exit from the town and rejoined the PanAmerican. It was going to be a shortish 35km run and all going well I can turn off it again tomorrow.
It's funny. A guy posted on Facebook some time ago about how he'd just discovered the "Pan American" and now he wanted to ride it all the way. I seem to spend most of my time trying to get off it!^_^

Sigh. Back on the PanAmerican and look at those signs - Armenia, Pereira, Cartago. I'm going backwards!
625294
It was busy! And smelly! Today it was fumes, mainly diesel from all the trucks. My shoulder was pretty much perfect except for bridges where a footpath would appear replacing the shoulder. A problem in Panamá, a mild inconvenience in Colombia. More traffic meant more beeps and waves of support. It seemed that there was a lot of enthusiasm to the waves.

San Pedro was the first town along the way and I didn't put up too much of an argument with myself turning off and locating the Plaza. I didn't need coffee so just sat in the Plaza and spent a bit of time selecting photos for here.
It didn't take long until I was chatting away with an older guy. Pereira was to be avoided, according to him. Full of thieves and robbers! San Pedro? Nothing bad ever happens here. Maybe it's the isolation over Christmas and the New Year but I'm really enjoying these conversations and very proud of my Spanish.

In fairness there were lots of interesting trees
625292
The next town along was Tuluá, a big town. Of course I took that turn off too - what's my rush? A coffee in the Plaza and a chance to watch the people going about their business. A big, prosperous looking town it looked like an interesting place to stay with two hospitals. I considered staying but decided to push on. I prefer the smaller hospital.

On the way out of town I had a chat with another bike tourist! This chap was from Argentina and heading north too, destination a bit confused. He had crossed from Ecuador but wasn't fulky compliant with Colombia, I couldn't quite follow the details. He mentioned having seen other cyclists heading south.

Sugarcane, hills and mountains in the distance
625291
It didn't take long at all until I was turning of for Andalucía. At the Plaza I pulled in for a coffee and a snack. The hotel was on one corner, the hospital along another side.

There's obviously a bit of effort put in to beautify the road.
625290
I got a room in the hotel, had a cold shower and set off on two missions. The first was to get a new front brake. That damaged pin means that the brakes are very soft and have to be adjusted daily and while it's not urgent on the flat I'm not far from the mountains again. I had to ask a few people but I got directed to a workshop and bought a set of brakes for the princely sum of €2. Then, off to the hospital to check if they have the vaccine.

The Pan American, Colombia style
625298
Small towns - I love 'em.
I was welcomed at the door and told to take a seat while he went off to investigate. Moments later he was back and led me through the hospital to the "Vaccination" office where I was introduced. Of course they had the vaccine. They'd be open from 8 am bring my documents and passport. My friend escorted me to the main door and advised me to use that one in the morning. Sorted!

There's always a tree or two.....
625297
Then it was back to the hotel to replace the brakes something that is simple for many but for me is a sign of how far a bike has brought me. Not mechanically minded at all something like that gives me tremendous satisfaction.

The Río Tuluá in ..... Tuluá. One of the very few towns I've seen here where the río is celebrated and a fixture in the city. European style terraces were dotted along the banks. Soooooo tempting to a río fan like me.
625295
With chores done I could be lazy. There's little to this little town outside of the Plaza - if all I do is look. But if I feel? I feel comfortable, welcome. Asking a couple of guys about a bike shop they replied (as best they could) in English and tried to be as helpful as possible.
Scoping the supermarket I was checked on three times by three pleasant staff asking how they could help me. Perhaps they thought I was suspicious but gave zero impression other than genuine helpfulness.
Attempting to cross the road (something done with caution in these parts!) an older man nudged me when he was crossing too giving me the signal it was safe to do so.

Leaving Tuluá. Often the roads in and out of town are worth the detour in their own right
625293

The Christmas lights came on early in the Plaza and like a sign that said "Open for business" it started to fill up. Two of the smallest trampolines ever seen have been set up and kids' laughter and screams are the soundtrack. A speaker is playing happy music - not blasting but loud enough for a bit of atmosphere. Families are gathering, some eating, others at Mass, others playing, yet more just chatting. And I get to be a part of it all. I don't think Andalucia will show up on any lists of places that you must visit but I'm really glad to be here.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 843 Tuesday, January 04, 2022 Buga to Andalucía, 41 km Total KM 15614
Min meters 991 , Max Meters 1048
Total Climb 144 Total Descent 136
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 31

The towns along the way .....

The pleasant and cheerful church in San Pedro. The "Welcome to San Pedro" sign proudly (if a tad optimistically) declares "Where dreams are born".
625301





The Plaza in San Pedro.
625303




Very unusually for Colombia the central statue wasn't of a local martyr for Independence but of a group of (local) musicians. It appears music is San Pedro's "thing".

625304




Tuluá and the church. That lady in the shot would not move! I'd pulled up and waited while her photo was taken at the sign. The man with her moved off their daughter, presumably, called her away and she point blank refused to move. Now she's famous!
625305




The church and some of the coolest pigeons ever! I walked right through them and not a one flew away. If I spoke Pigeon I'm pretty sure my ears would have been burning!
625306





The church in Andalucía

625308





Guess!
625309






It's very difficult to describe the atmosphere in these places in the evening. Full of life yet so calm. Happy music, happy voices, a community coming together and sharing space. It's a very rare thing for me to feel anything but welcome.
625300

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 844 Wednesday, January 05, 2022 Andalucía to San Luis, 66 km Total KM 15680
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1029,
Total Climb 239 Total Descent 257
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 29

So many towns so many stops

So I was at the hospital just after 8am. A man at the door (in regular "medical" clothing not a security uniform) checked my reason for being there and directed me to where I knew I had to go. A queue of mainly women with children were already outside the door. I took up a place along the wall. A woman waiting with her son told me to go into the office and show them my papers. So I did.

The kids were getting vaccines and they showed me a pile of paperwork as if to say I was at the bottom of the pile. No problem, I'm in no hurry. Leaving my passport and paperwork with them I went back to the corridor. Being white, male and childless I wasn't exactly blending in but I certainly didn't feel uncomfortable.

Sigh. Back on the Pan American. Am I the most spoilt bike tourist ever?😊
625432
I watched the numbers dwindle and then I was called in. The unusual (to a Colombian) layout of my passport led to "Señor Andrew" being called out (Andrew is my second name). The hotel last night registered me as Frank Eireannach (Eireannach meaning "Irish" as Gaeilge). In and out I was in three minutes. No charge and lots of good wishes.

A process that seemed incredibly complicated and stressful, potentially dangerous and just generally a PITA a couple of weeks ago in a tiny, dingy room in Rosas had come to an end as I stepped out into bright sunshine in another small town.
I'm not advocating getting bitten by a dog when you go away but I got to see parts of Colombia that tourists don't often get to see. And I quite enjoyed it.
Other patients didn't look at me as a foreigner using up "their" facilities, the professionals were professional and pleasant. The facilities are not what I'm used to but they are used as best they can.
Even leaving the hospital the man on the door stopped me to make sure that I had received what I needed. And wished me well.
Even with a dogbite and potential rabies infection Colombia still has me feeling comfortable.
I went for a coffee and just sat thinking about what a lucky fecker I am.

Leaving Zarzal.
625435
It was approaching 11 am when I finally set off. My first town was only a couple of km down the road so wanting to make at least some progress I kept going. I did turn off for La Paila though, a small village on the other side of the road after about 20km.

Nature's Fireworks exploding in front of some characterful mountains
625437
I've been thinking the past day or two just how easy it is to head into a strange town - just head for the Plaza. I know I used to use church steeples in Europe as a way to navigate but here it seems ...... different. For one thing, while Plazas may be quiet there are always people and usually some activity taking place. At this time of the year there are the Christmas decorations too. There's invariably a place to eat or drink - coffee is becoming less scarce again as I re-approach coffee country.
I may be totally delusional but on rolling out of town again I think I've picked up a feeling for the place.

I thought road trains were an Australian thing. It looks like these guys are transporting sugarcane.
625434
I'm taking very few photos along the road at the moment - I'm enjoying the cycling too much! It's great to be moving at speed again and while the views are interesting, trees especially, I prefer moving.

The Pan American in Colombia ....... Nothing like the Pan American in Panamá!
625433
After about 30km I left the Pan American for a while and visited the new town of Zarzal. I could have stayed on the big road but with an alternative it was a no brainer. Zarzal, just over 100 years old was big, but dull. I rolled out again and onto a rural road, decentq surface except for the edges and not too much traffic. Wonderful trees lined the road and I zipped along to the very pleasant town of Roldanillo.
Famous as the home of a Colombian artist, Rayo, it's pretty and well set up for tourists. A very pleasant Plaza was my stop for excellent coffee.

Today's Río - the Río Cauca with a free railway suspension bridge
625431
I stopped on the edge of town for a bite to eat and a bit of flirting at a bakery and then set off for the next town - La Union.
Outside of La Union iOverlander told me of a hostel and campsite and Facebook gave me the chance to message them so I did. I had a pretty instant response that I'd be very welcome - in fact I'd be the first customer in almost two years!

Not for the first time roadside art this time on tbe way to Roldanillo. One sign witg the artist's name, the next with the painting. The art wasn't speaking to me at all.
625428
Back now on a mainish two lane road I had the use of a dubious shoulder. Sometimes it was a part of the road and sometimes it was below the road, broken up and filled with gravel and debris. No matter, this was still much better travelling than on the Pan American.

It may not come across in tbe text but I was enjoying myself immensely.
625430
La Unión was a busy town with a busy Plaza. I had a little wander but as time was ticking I continued on the 5km or so out to the campground. As it turned out it was located in the teeny tiny, but very pretty and friendly village of San Luís.

Two different types of Palm trees simply outstanding in their field
625429
Tim, the Dutch owner with a Venezuelan girlfriend (soon to be wife) was very friendly and welcoming and I got to pitch my tent amongst some exotic plants. His girlfriend's family are here too having fled Venezuela. Tim had just gotten his fledgling business off the ground when Covid hit. Very much set up and dependant on the "international adventure travel" demographic there hasn't been a lot of demand.
Nothing but my presence would be accepted for food with the family after a shower and pitching the tent.

Colombia - still very comfortable.

A simple church and a long, pretty but small park at a "surprise" village along the road
625436


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 844 Wednesday, January 05, 2022 Andalucía to San Luis, 66 km Total KM 15680
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1029,
Total Climb 239 Total Descent 257
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 29

So many towns so many stops

The Towns along the way

La Paila had an original sign
625546



The back was interesting too!
625543




Santa's Grotto in Zarzal

625541




A lovely little park on the way in to Roldanillo
625547




A selection of street art in that lovely little park
625545





The Church from the Plaza in Roldanillo
625540



A bright and cheerful cemetery in Roldanillo
625538




How to make a boring concrete bench interesting in La Union
625542





The impressive church in La Union
625544





San Luís. A charming, friendly village
625539




Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
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