Thru axle torque, how important is it ?

[Smokin Joe]

I never understand why they use disc brakes on the rear wheel which is the one that gets the puncture over 90% of the time. Nearly all the stopping power is from the front brake where a disc will have a real benefit. You could get away with a BMX brake on the back.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

I never understand why they use disc brakes............

..............On road bikes, especially when racing (like the TdF). Really slows the wheel changes right down, not helped by those lawyers lips (that I file off). The UCI banned that filing FFS

Nevertheless for winter riding in the lanes with all the sh!t about you need mudguards (which most road bikes can't have fitted properly especially as there is no bridge at the rear and no drillings on the front fork when discyfied) but discs would be good for reducing rim wear to zero. It really is very badly thought out IMHO.

You pays you money and does your thing so as you were folks Just my wee gripe

 

[keithmac]

The torque on the axle shouldn't have any influence at all on the final position of the hub/ brake disk if it's been designed peoperly.

 

[si_c]

The torque on the axle shouldn't have any influence at all on the final position of the hub/ brake disk if it's been designed peoperly.

It will though, as the torque is applying a preload to the hub system, failure to tighten the QR/through axle sufficiently will allow play to remain which could impact rotor and/or cassette positioning, meaning brake rub or inconsistent shifting respectively.

Overtightening could apply too much and cause bindiing within the hub reducing bearing life or adding additional rolling resistance for example some hubs will be designed such that these may not be an issue, cup/cone bearing arrangements will be more resistant to too much preload is my understanding.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Unless you are forcing it with both hands putting a big impression on the hands you should be well within that figure. So don’t go mad and you’ll be fine. These things after all are designed to be undone and re done up on the road by Joe Bloggs. The torque numbers are more for bike mechanics who may tighten it up more than required.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Oh and I’d let the owner finish the job offering the minimal assistance required. Which might just have been help with patching then leave them to it. Otherwise they’ll be in same position next time.

 

[keithmac]

If it's a cartridge bearing hub it should have an internal spacer, if hasn't it hasn't been designed properly.

You shouldn't be able to bind the hub by over torquing the axle that is just poor design.

Obviously if you haven't tightend it up you'd have bigger problems than just disk alignment..

 

[rivers]

If I'm home, and just swapping wheels around, I will get my torque wrench out and tighten to 10nm, which is what is written on my fork and chainstays. If I get a puncture, and need to remove my wheel, I tighten it as much as I can, which is about 10nm, and double check it with my torque wrench when I get home.

 

[Arrowfoot]

If they did not put the NM on it, people would have got it right - snug tight and not overly tight. The wheels should not have any play.