Tools...Madison Revell Mixte, and brakes.

[DCBassman]

I'm going to need to service the headset and BB on this machine, so what tools am I likely to need?
It's a British-built bike, so probably nothing exotic or untoward in threading, sizes, etc - at least so I suppose!
Your collective wisdom much appreciated, as these are two jobs I've not done before. As far as the BB goes, the tools and experience will help me do the Trek mtb also, as that needs looking at for the first time in its 19-year life!

An additional question: it has longish drop Weinmann alloy side-pulls, and I want to fit Koolstop Salmons. What shoes/blocks will fit in these calipers?
A great big TIA for your collective wisdom!

 

[Cycleops]

It’s fairly straightforwar, you can use a adjustable wrench to remove but the problem is the flats are shallow and if its tight (the non drive side is usually the problem) it keeps slipping off. There is a Park Tool HCW11 but the problem largely remains. This clever hack from Monkeyshred will help you:

View: https://youtu.be/WDDmrgtRMe8

cant help with the blocks I’m afraid.

 

[carpenter]

If cranks are square taper, then an extractor is really useful (type will depend on crank make to a certain extent) - I still think it is quite magical how easily an extractor removes what appears to be a "stuck solid" crank:

https://www.deporvillage.net/double...MIjY2fsbzt6wIV2-vtCh32hwPlEAQYAiABEgL7ffD_BwE

The above is about three times the price of a single ended 22mm extractor, but it also works with TA (23mm) cranks, so it was a "must buy" for me.

 

[carpenter]

Just been down to the shed to check model name - Koolstop "Continental Salmon" work really well with old Weinmann brakes, and improve stopping on steel rims imo (they also look right on Weinmann centre pulls), highly recommended:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-blocks/kool-stop-continental-brake-blocks-salmon/

 

[biggs682]

Just been down to the shed to check model name - Koolstop "Continental Salmon" work really well with old Weinmann brakes, and improve stopping on steel rims imo (they also look right on Weinmann centre pulls), highly recommended:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-blocks/kool-stop-continental-brake-blocks-salmon/

They are what I use

 

[biggs682]

Treat yourself to a third hand tool @DCBassman for when doing the brake cable adjustment .
And a big or 13mm but and bolt just incase the drive side bottom bracket cup is stuck

 

[DCBassman]

Just been down to the shed to check model name - Koolstop "Continental Salmon" work really well with old Weinmann brakes, and improve stopping on steel rims imo (they also look right on Weinmann centre pulls), highly recommended:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-blocks/kool-stop-continental-brake-blocks-salmon/

Ordered! Have a crank extractor that fits Simano and Ritchey cranks, the Stronglights on this may well be the same, not too old. Will see!

 

[Cycleops]

I concur with biggsy a third hand is very useful.

 

[Smokin Joe]

I concur with biggsy a third hand is very useful.
View attachment 547487

I've had one of those for years, I could never get the sodding thing to spring open enough to clamp the blocks. Got a few bruised fingers from when the thing slipped, though

 

[carpenter]

I concur with biggsy a third hand is very useful.
View attachment 547487

I have led a sheltered life - never seen that before.
I use a strong rubber band.

Reading that back I can imagine all sorts of dodgy responses

 

[Paulus]

I have led a sheltered life - never seen that before.
I use a strong rubber band.

Reading that back I can imagine all sorts of dodgy responses

No dodgy responses here
But I have never used a third hand. These days I use longish cable ties.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

But I have never used a third hand. These days I use longish cable ties.

For quickness, I normally use a couple of cable ties run through the rim between the spokes and around the brake mechs to hold them closed when faffing around with brake cables. Another method is to tie one end of a length of thin sash cord or similar, around the rim and tyre, then bind it tightly several times around the mech before tying off the other end. This method has the advantage of not wasting cable ties (although I get mine from work anyway). The same sort of piece of cord is also handy for binding a stubborn tyre like a Marathon, when persuading it to go on without using tyre levers.

 

[DCBassman]

Do you know, I've never considered it problematic...I must have three hands!

 

[Paulus]

I concur with biggsy a third hand is very useful.
View attachment 547487

On a whim today I have ordered one from SJS cycles. I shall see how I get on with it.