Totally confused about hydraulic disc brakes...

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roger06

roger06

Senior Member
I popped into a French bike shop who said the discs were fine (worn, yes). He was busy arguing with other customers over a damaged rental bike so I couldn't really get him to investigate further.

I've found this little bolt under the leaver - it looks like this could adjust the play?

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Location
Loch side.
I popped into a French bike shop who said the discs were fine (worn, yes). He was busy arguing with other customers over a damaged rental bike so I couldn't really get him to investigate further.

I've found this little bolt under the leaver - it looks like this could adjust the play?

View attachment 369056
That little bolt will adjust the reach. However, no matter what the reach, it will not adjust the bite point.
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
1.5 mm of pad material is quite adequate.

Most people don't understand how a hydraulic brake works. The piston seals are thick rubber and almost square in section with the pistons fitted very tightly indeed inside them. Try to pull a piston out and you'll appreciate how damn tight they are. The pads are pushed onto the rotors as the seals deform into a parallelogram shape then when you remove the hydraulic pressure they revert to their un-braked position as the seals resume their normal shape. The brake is a simple hydraulic pump with a reservoir of fluid that takes up brake wear. As the pads wear the pistons do creep slowly through the seals but the movement is microscopic. If for some reason the pistons aren't creeping through the seals you can begin to find increasing clearance and hence increasing lever travel as the pads wear. Some people mistake this increased movement for air in the system and they suggest pulling the levers to the bar for a few hours with a rubber band, thinking this somehow dissolves the air in the fluid or something equally daft but my guess is that actually they are just forcing the pistons to creep through the pads a little.

Sometimes if you grab a big handful of brake you can force the piston through the seals and you end up with a brake that's stuck on, which means you've got to remove the wheel and push the pads and pistons back in.
 
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roger06

roger06

Senior Member
Ok that makes sense. I've been braking a lot, going down fairly gentle (ish) gradients to control my speed, so only 'soft' braking. I've not done any hard braking. I'll try your trip of rubber banding the levers to the bars and see is that helps.

cheers
 
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roger06

roger06

Senior Member
Holding the levers to the bars for a few hours made no difference. In fact, they seemed a bit worse. I can only conclude they need bleeding...
 
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roger06

roger06

Senior Member
I've now dropped the bike in for its six week service. The brake pads were very low so they replaced them (without bleeding the brakes) and now they bite much sooner. The guy said the pad wear caused the large amount of play in the levers so that seems to contradict any theory that hydraulic brakes self adjust...
 
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Alan O

Über Member
Location
Liverpool
I've now dropped the bike in for its six week service. The brake pads were very low so they replaced them (without bleeding the brakes) and now they bite much sooner. The guy said the pad wear caused the large amount of play in the levers so that seems to contradict any theory that hydraulic brakes self adjust...
Hang on - is this a bike that you bought new, and the bike shop guy is telling you the pads wore out in just six weeks? I'm certainly no expert on hydraulic disk brakes - I got my very first ones late last year and I've only done a couple of hundred miles with them. But if I'm understanding what you're saying, it sounds like he's talking horse poo. (*Update: it's me talking horse poo - see below.)

(I had an episode when my front brake developed a lot of travel, but that was due to air I managed to get into the system.)
 
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Drago

Legendary Member
You can wear out a set of pads in an afternoon off road.
 
Location
Loch side.
Really? Oh, wow.

Yup, it's true. On some wet MTB cross-country races you can actually smell the brakes burning if you are at the back or in a bunch. Plenty of people enter these races and come with resin pads instead of metal pads. Many don't finish the race because the pads are worn out. Some carry on and jam their shoes between tyre and seat post. That smells even worse and makes a horrible noise like a Texas chainsaw massacre.
 

Alan O

Über Member
Location
Liverpool
Yup, it's true. On some wet MTB cross-country races you can actually smell the brakes burning if you are at the back or in a bunch. Plenty of people enter these races and come with resin pads instead of metal pads. Many don't finish the race because the pads are worn out. Some carry on and jam their shoes between tyre and seat post. That smells even worse and makes a horrible noise like a Texas chainsaw massacre.
Interesting what you learn, thanks. Next time someone asks me where I'm going, I'll answer "Out to burn some brakes."
 
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roger06

roger06

Senior Member
I've been riding in the Alps. Not the mad stuff the mental guys with stupidly expensive DH bikes do, but tracks where I was having to brake (lightly) about 80% of the time as a) I was too scared to go fast and b) I didn't want to keep over-taking my nine year old so the brake pads certainly got very cooked!
 
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