Touring bike

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Location
London
Good report back, I have also heard good things about rose wheels. Never bought wheels from them, but lots of other stuff. Very fast and good delivery. If looking abroad would also consider Taylor Wheels of germany.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Good report back, I have also heard good things about rose wheels. Never bought wheels from them, but lots of other stuff. Very fast and good delivery. If looking abroad would also consider Taylor Wheels of germany.

Yes, I reckon much of the quality of the Mavics I linked to is due to Rose building them well.

My front one had a basic Shimano dynohub.

Rose would probably do a limited custom build if asked.
 

BromptonChrispy

Well-Known Member
Location
Chester, Earth.
I’ve been using an “entry level” Genesis Tour de Fer 10 for a few years now and it’s supremely comfortable especially with a B17 saddle, and 35 mm Schwalbe bombproof tyres. Average mech discs though but easily upgradable callipers. Some great reviews of Genesis tourers (“adventure bikes”🙄) out there. Good luck.
 
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Cable disc brakes are reliable, easy to work on and stop as well as good V brakes no matter what the conditions. The only drawback of disc brakes is that the fork needs beefing up. How comfortable is it on long rides? Maybe you just need fatter tyres.

I find that my canti brakes just will not adjust to a good position that is compatible with the std rear rack. Rack compatible rear disc means positioned on the chainstay not the seatstay.

Modern road groupsets seem to have diverged from mtb too much. I would seriously consider flat bar controls on a Euro trecker style with butterfly bars. Or use bar end gear levers.
 
Location
London
Cable disc brakes are reliable, easy to work on and stop as well as good V brakes no matter what the conditions. The only drawback of disc brakes is that the fork needs beefing up. How comfortable is it on long rides? Maybe you just need fatter tyres.

I find that my canti brakes just will not adjust to a good position that is compatible with the std rear rack. Rack compatible rear disc means positioned on the chainstay not the seatstay.

Modern road groupsets seem to have diverged from mtb too much. I would seriously consider flat bar controls on a Euro trecker style with butterfly bars. Or use bar end gear levers.
flat bars very definitely make everything simpler in all sorts of ways.
Many many "compatibility" issues just vapourise for a start.
I have converted two flat bar bikes from cantis (in my experience a bit borderline for loaded biking) to Vs with no issues at all. And from 7 speed to 8 and 9. (and for touring I don't think you need any more than 9) .All works fine.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
flat bars very definitely make everything simpler in all sorts of ways.
Many many "compatibility" issues just vapourise for a start.
I have converted two flat bar bikes from cantis (in my experience a bit borderline for loaded biking) to Vs with no issues at all. And from 7 speed to 8 and 9. (and for touring I don't think you need any more than 9) .All works fine.

I think the flat bar stuff is also cheaper.

My local bike shop was sourcing a drop bar brifter for a customer who had dropped the bike.

Looked a lot of money to me, and apparently Shimano will generally only sell in pairs.

Had it been a flat bar he might of got away with a brake lever or a changer.

https://www.bike24.com/brands/shimano/catalog-38
 
Location
London
Tis true. Lots of flat bar single gear shifters available on ebay.

I used to lead lots of rides - i well remember a (pretty techy) drop bar bod getting off the train with us. One of his brakes (cable) wouldn't work and he couldn't figure out why so had to get straight back on a return train. Am confident that even a non techy bod like me could have figured out the problem with flat bar Vs in about a minute.
 

Crankarm

Guru
Location
Nr Cambridge
I agree, Riding with my head down and on corrugated tarmac I can see the tips of the forks oscillating, that has to count as some dissipated energy from "bumps and lumps". Of course that dissipated energy must also occur when you are transmitting power to the cranks, however even with my sorely competitive streak I resist sprints and half wheeling when taking in the countryside views on a loaded bike. If I lose X watts a mile/km due to a comfy frame I am not going to get anxious, I'll stick with riding X metres less per hour than my doppelganger riding the carbon frame.
I could not enjoy riding a loaded up carbon frame, even one with lazy geometry.

LoL. Maybe you haven't quite thought long enough about how many carbon touring frames there actually are .................. for good reason.
 

Crankarm

Guru
Location
Nr Cambridge
I have posted this on another forum but I'm thinking of upgrading my touring bike from my Dawes Galaxy but unsure what to go for, I'm thinking of going for one with disc brakes rather than rim brakes but I love the steel frame of the Galaxy any recommendations? TIA

Aren't Galaxies available with disc brakes now? I seem to remember researching them a few years ago and found Dawes was now doing them with disc brakes. Just get a frame and build it up to your own spec.

Alternatively the Kona Sutra with disc brakes might be as close as an alternative to the Dawes Galaxy you are going to get. They all seem to get very favourable reviews. There might be other bikes as well.
 

Crankarm

Guru
Location
Nr Cambridge
Tis true. Lots of flat bar single gear shifters available on ebay.

I used to lead lots of rides - i well remember a (pretty techy) drop bar bod getting off the train with us. One of his brakes (cable) wouldn't work and he couldn't figure out why so had to get straight back on a return train. Am confident that even a non techy bod like me could have figured out the problem with flat bar Vs in about a minute.

By far the most powerful brakes are hydraulic disc brakes with flat bar levers i.e. MTB brake levers. Drop handle bar STI units either disc specific or with a conversion from cable to hydraulic between the lever and calliper, or cable all the way from lever to a cable operated caliper are no way as powerful imho. They can be good but no way as good as conventional MTB hydraulic disc brakes such as Hope or Shimano SLX, XT and above. Also there is the physical awkwardness of operating a drop bar STI lever compared to a simple MTB lever. STI brake and gear lever units generally have their cables concealed beneath handle bar tape thus reducing responsiveness even more. A MTB flat bar set up doesn't have this. Whilst drop bar might give a greater variety of hand positions, flat bars are far better for controlling your bike and having all your controls quite literally at your finger tips without having to take your hands off the bars. You can brake, change gear, steer all at the same time with ease. Not so easy with drop handle although can be done still although you have to concentrate and anticipate so much more.

Rim brakes are just so last century. Technology has moved on. Who wants to be faced with replacing a wheel rim because the braking surface has worn out or the rim split? Not me. Been there done that. So disc brakes every time now for me. So much better. Plus you can stop when the weather is wet or having ridden through puddles.
 
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Location
London
Agree with lots of that apart from apparent concession to drops supposedly superior multiple hand positions. And am perfectly happy with my rim Vs.
 
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