Tubeless puncture noob question

[Ajax Bay]

I assure you this is not the "practical" limit/cusp. Many pros are running 25s tubeless at these pressures, or higher.

For most of us, it is.
The pros aren't worried about longevity or about repairing holes that are too big for self sealing.
I've found that at 28c and 80 psi, it is almost impossible to get a plug to hold, which makes them borderline on practicality.
That calculator above suggests I should be running at 63 front, 68 rear for tubeless, but the Fusion 5 tyres I was using have a minimum pressure of 74psi. Even for tubed tyres it suggests 71/76, which seems low to me. (I'm 89Kg, my bike is 9.4Kg)

What's tyre width got to do with "longevity or repairing holes"?
Address @Venod on that calculator. I have not accessed it but 71/76 front/rear for 28mm tubed tyres carrying 99kg load (44/55kg) seems far too low. I use the attached graph from BQ (gives 72/90psi, assumes the 28s are actually 28mm wide).

 

[Alex321]

What's tyre width got to do with "longevity or repairing holes"?

Nothing, as far as I know. Where did that question come from?

My point was that what the pros do has little relevance to us more normal cyclists. We want tyres that will last us for months, and which can be repaired even when we get a hole too big to self-seal.

They just swap the wheel when they get such a puncture, then the tyre will be replaced before it is ridden again.

Address @Venod on that calculator. I have not accessed it but 71/76 front/rear for 28mm tubed tyres carrying 99kg load (44/55kg) seems far too low. I use the attached graph from BQ (gives 72/90psi, assumes the 28s are actually 28mm wide).
View attachment 665087

Yes, that seems more realistic.

 

[T4tomo]

Many pros are running 25s tubeless at these pressures, or higher.

Some of the pro teams, in this season gone, are experimenting with / moving from tubulars to tubeless for some stages / races for some riders. This is motivated by their wheel/tyre sponsors, as it would suit them to say "the pros are using this set up and you can buy it" vs the historic "pros use tubulars, everyday cyclists use clinchers" status quo. Also driven by races like Paris Roubaix and other spring classics where punctures and not being able to get a team car to the rider quickly are an issue (a situation very divorced from a self sufficient leisure cyclist).

I don't believe there is any evidence for your assertion that the pros running tubeless are over inflating their tyres, why would they? Most pro's are much lighter than your average leisure cyclist and their bikes are set up by professional team mechanics.

 

[Alex321]

Some of the pro teams, in this season gone, are experimenting with / moving from tubulars to tubeless for some stages / races for some riders. This is motivated by their wheel/tyre sponsors, as it would suit them to say "the pros are using this set up and you can buy it" vs the historic "pros use tubulars, everyday cyclists use clinchers" status quo. Also driven by races like Paris Roubaix and other spring classics where punctures and not being able to get a team car to the rider quickly are an issue (a situation very divorced from a self sufficient leisure cyclist).

I don't believe there is any evidence for your assertion that the pros running tubeless are over inflating their tyres, why would they? Most pro's are much lighter than your average leisure cyclist and their bikes are set up by professional team mechanics.

Where have I made any such assertion?

 

[the_mikey]

Noob question about tubeless tyres.

I had a puncture earlier today (after hearing some of the sealant spraying out of the tyre), but the sealant stopped the type completely deflating. Since getting home, I've inflated it back to 80psi and it's holding so far.

If it holds, do I simply leave it, or should I repair it anyway? Just concerned the tyre is now compromised.

Sounds like the sealant did its job, might be a good idea to top up the sealant at some point, and maybe set aside some time to do some basic maintenance, ie at least once a year clean out the old sealant, clean the rim and check the state of the rim tape, fit new tape if needed, clean the tyres, check for cracks and holes that may have been sealed previously. It pays to learn how to do it now, next time it won't be so challenging, and then eventually it will get easier to deal with.

That calculator above suggests I should be running at 63 front, 68 rear for tubeless, but the Fusion 5 tyres I was using have a minimum pressure of 74psi. Even for tubed tyres it suggests 71/76, which seems low to me. (I'm 89Kg, my bike is 9.4Kg)

I'm using 28c Fusion 5 all season tyres (tubeless type) and running them at 68-65psi, I've read lots of different recommended tyre pressures around the internet but this seems to be more than ok, I started using 75psi and then reduced and reduced until I settled at 68psi rear and 65psi front, probably could go down further but the bike handles beautifully at this pressure, certainly compared with a tubed tyres where 60psi in a 25mm tubed tyre would be too soft and handle badly, and a 28c tubed tyre would have excessive rolling resistance, it's not an issue for tubeless at 28c.

 

[Ajax Bay]

To tidy up the untidiable

26mm width & 80psi is on the cusp of what is practical to run tubeless. you ideally want a wider tyre (assuming it will fit) so you can run at a lower pressure.

I assure you this is not the "practical" limit/cusp. Many pros are running 25s tubeless at these pressures, or higher.

Alex: The pros aren't worried about longevity or about repairing holes that are too big for self sealing.

What's tyre width got to do with "longevity or repairing holes"?

Tomo: I don't believe there is any evidence for your assertion that the pros running tubeless are over inflating their tyres

Tomo asserts that 26mm is the practical limit.
I suggest it's not (quoting pro behaviour (and plenty non-pro btw)) and also that they run tubeless above 80psi.
Alex makes random comment about longevity and robustness.
I imply that width of tyre has no effect on either so longevity and robustness are not relevant (in this context).
Tomo thinks pros don't 'over inflate' their tyres. Noone (on here) has suggested this.
Comment: While running tubeless allows tyre pressures to be reduced (for comfort), this has a rolling resistance penalty, so pros (their mechanics) will set the pressures higher than 80psi (rear 25mm tyre) accordingly, unless the rider is sub (say) 70kg (male minority).

 

[T4tomo]

Tomo: I don't believe there is any evidence for your assertion that the pros running tubeless are over inflating their tyres

It was your assertion / or the logical conclusion of your assertion by reference to your statement below.

Many pros are running 25s tubeless at these pressures, or higher.

my thought process, for the record was:

If your approx. 57-65kg pro cyclist is running at higher than 80psi, then they are over inflating their tyres with reference to the majority of inflation charts, including the one you posted for clinchers where accepted whatever protocol is to deduct ~5-15psi for tubeless.

I accept some pros are heavier, but your "many" & "higher" by law of average will include a good number in that range.

Its descending into a pointless discussion as no-one knows what tyre pressures the pro use one the occasions that they run tubeless.

I don't believe the sub 70kg cyclist are the minority either. Also tyre pressures are normally set based on the preference GC team lead rider for inter changeability between bikes in case of incidents.

this has a rolling resistance penalty

Again a lot of evidence to the contrary has emerged in the last few years to debunk this myth in the real world, plus numerous aero resistance vs rolling resistance arguments that disproves the "harder is always faster" theory

However this is all massively irrelevant to non pro cyclists like us.

Can we agree that on average there will be less tubeless "issues" on wider tyres run at lower pressures than there will be on narrower tyres at higher pressures? which was the thrust of my original cusp point. If we can't I'm not that bothered

 

[Ian H]

I've been running GP5000 25s tubeless for a couple of years on one bike. So far I've had one puncture - a sidewall gash that required a tube - and one 'burp' when the rear lost pressure over a pothole (after which I raised the pressures to the current 70/80psi). I top up the sealant when the pressures start to drop significantly between rides.
The main advantages are significantly improved comfort and reduced rolling resistance compared to tubed 25s.

 

[YellowV2]

Sounds like the sealant did its job, might be a good idea to top up the sealant at some point, and maybe set aside some time to do some basic maintenance, ie at least once a year clean out the old sealant, clean the rim and check the state of the rim tape, fit new tape if needed, clean the tyres, check for cracks and holes that may have been sealed previously. It pays to learn how to do it now, next time it won't be so challenging, and then eventually it will get easier to deal with.

Tubeless tyres are designed to stay on the rim until worn out ideally using tyre worms/plugs to repair punctures too big to seal with the sealant alone. Old sealant does not need cleaning out/removing, in fact it can benefit some tyres to have a coating of sealant even if dried as it assists in not losing air pressure, if they are porous as some are.
Removing a tubeless tyre unless absolutely necessary will stretch the bead and make it harder to reseat possibly needing an extra layer of rim tape to get it seated properly.
Maintenance in terms of checking for cuts etc. should be done frequently (weekly) not annually when checking everything else?

 

[Milzy]

I had these tires in 26mm and just went 10psi below their recommended chart. It won’t hurt going to it though.