What gets me about the tubeless fanboys is the way they harp on about all the punctures they have avoided suffering by running tubeless tyres with sealant. How often do you hear them saying that they can see all the places that have been sealed by the super system..... No shoot they get loads of punctures when they are running super light, gossamer thin tyres to maximise weight saving and 'feel'. Try running a sensible tyre and you wouldn't need a tubeless/sealant system.
Coming into this as a neutral-ish observer (I run both tubed and tubeless on my bikes), you are starting to sound like a broken record.
We all know you don’t like or see the point of tubeless, but you’re starting to turn every tubeless thread into a helmet thread, where the same same opposing opinions come out again and again.
The OP requested info on repairing a tubeless tyre, not whether people thought tubeless was great or not.
My opinion is that it may be worth trying a plug in combination with the Stan’s Race sealant which, as mentioned above, has bigger flakes for sealing bigger holes under higher pressures.
I have used Schwalbe Pro One TLE 700x28 tyres in the past and have found it tricky to get them to seal On my Pacenti Forza Disc rims and also after having a particularly large puncture. In fact I now have them fitted to my summer bike with tubes in! 😬
I’ve found the Specialized Roubaix Pro 28c tubeless the easiest to set up and have run them on the Pacenti rims with zero issue through two winters with several punctures self-sealed. They’re not as fast as the Schwalbe tyres though.
Now, changing into ‘Helmet Thread Mode’ for Skol‘s benefit, here’s my opinion.
My own experience is as Drago says “Tubeless is great. Until suddenly its not”.
It worked brilliantly at lower pressures in bigger tyres on my mountain bike.
It can be a hassle on road tyres though. I generally run my rear 28c at 80psi and it can be a bit of a pain to get it to seal initially. I may try Stan’s Race sealant on my road bikes as I suspect it will work better at high pressures, although have previously preferred injecting sealant through the valve with the core removed to avoid mess.
I’ve converted my summer bike back to tubes, but have persevered on my winter bike due to the several occasions where the tyres have self-sealed in the pitch black and freezing cold. To me, this makes the additional hassle worthwhile.
I’ve just taken delivery of a gravel bike with 35c tyres and would expect this to be fine with the normal Stan’s sealant. We shall see.
