Tubeless worth it for a road bike?

[LewisLondon]

After a 3rd puncture (2 on back tyre, one on front) in a week, I've reached the point where my tyres are pretty much too cut up and need replacing (to be expected I guess, they are "racier" tyres, so longevity not the key).

I now have a dilemma. I've been looking at tubeless for a while, and unsure if I should take the plunge. My situation is thus:

- one commuter bike, sturdy tyres
- one carbon bike for racing/training. A have the original giant wheels for this (heavy and un aero), and an alright set of ally wheels (superstar components), that I pretty much use all the time on this bike.

Would it be too much to get my ally wheels converted to tubeless, stick some nice/quick tyres on these? My worry is how long the tyres would last. Or whether I should just buy some nice clincher tyres again and just accept I won't get the longest life out of them.

Basically, i'm a very confused person about the whole tyre situation, and would love help from the more experienced! If you told me that tubeless is fairly easy to do, and even the quickest tyres last ages, that would make my life so much easier...

 

[AndyRM]

Tubeless makes sense for your racing/training bike. Not on your commuter bike.

 

[LewisLondon]

That's definitely what i'm thinking so far. Any thoughts on the longevity of the tyres?

 

[si_c]

Tubeless makes sense for your racing/training bike. Not on your commuter bike.

I'd argue the reverse, I'm planning on running my commuter bike tubeless this winter as punctures would mean being late for work.

 

[si_c]

That's definitely what i'm thinking so far. Any thoughts on the longevity of the tyres?

Pick a good tyre and it should have decent longevity. I've had good life out of Bontrager R series tyres before now, not the tubeless version. but the difference is the bead.

Do you have tubeless compatible rims currently?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

There's a contradiction in your story. You say after a few punctures your tyres are too cut up to use anymore. In the next breath you hint that tubeless will solve the problem. Tubeless is not cut-proof. They cut and puncture just like other tyres, only they have sealant inside that can plug smaller holes.

Tubeless tyres are extremely hard to fit, especially out on the road if you were to fit a tube because of a large cut that wouldn't seal.

Tubeless tyres require tubeless rims.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Just get some decent clincher for your best wheels (which you will likely not be able to 'convert' satisfactorily, if at all. Going tubeless would be too much faff. I expect to get 5000+km from either Conti GP 4 Seasons or Michelin Pro4 SC (more if on the front wheel). And the latter are well up the rollingresistance.com order - both with a high level of puncture resistance.protection (tread and sidewall). If you want a 'quicker' tyre still, how about Conti GP4000 SII? Saves a watt or two over the Michelins.

 

[LewisLondon]

Pick a good tyre and it should have decent longevity. I've had good life out of Bontrager R series tyres before now, not the tubeless version. but the difference is the bead.

Do you have tubeless compatible rims currently?

They are sold as tubeless compatible - so i hope so! They need rim tape, but the rest definitely says compatible.

There's a contradiction in your story. You say after a few punctures your tyres are too cut up to use anymore. In the next breath you hint that tubeless will solve the problem. Tubeless is not cut-proof. They cut and puncture just like other tyres, only they have sealant inside that can plug smaller holes.

Tubeless tyres are extremely hard to fit, especially out on the road if you were to fit a tube because of a large cut that wouldn't seal.

Tubeless tyres require tubeless rims.

As above, think they are tubeless rims.

Re: the cut up point, don't worry it doesn't mean I think they are cut proof. My (poorly written) post was just pointing out that it's time to get new tyres because of the cuts, so now I get to choose. I was hoping the sealant helps with some of the minor cuts, but happy to be corrected on that. Point definitely taken about being hard to fit out on the road, that does give me something to consider.

Just get some decent clincher for your best wheels (which you will likely not be able to 'convert' satisfactorily, if at all. Going tubeless would be too much faff. I expect to get 5000+km from either Conti GP 4 Seasons or Michelin Pro4 SC (more if on the front wheel). And the latter are well up the rollingresistance.com order - both with a high level of puncture resistance.protection (tread and sidewall). If you want a 'quicker' tyre still, how about Conti GP4000 SII? Saves a watt or two over the Michelins.

I've been using the "Vittoria Rubino Pro Speed G+ Folding Graphene Tyre" - sold as being pretty quick but not the longest life, and I think I can vouch for that. Might have a look at the GP4000 at the same time!

 

[Racing roadkill]

For some unknown reason, people assume tubeless tyre's don't puncture, and that the sealant will stop any punctures.

The advantage of tubeless, is less rolling resistance and weight, and the behaviour of the tyres in the corners. If you're racing, and 'marginal gains' matter, then they are a no brainer, if not, the disadvantages, outweigh the advantages, in my experience. I used a tubeless system a couple of years ago, I went back to conventional after 3 (very messy) punctures / puncture repairs. The feel of the ride was night and day different, I'll grant you, but the extra problems if and when you do get a puncture, and the cost, made me think it wasn't actually worth it.

 

[Sea of vapours]

Tubeless tyres are extremely hard to fit, especially out on the road....

Ahem. I think there's a 'some' or even 'many combinations of tubeless tyres and rims ' missing from the above.

Anecdata - that from me and a friend also running tubeless road wheels/tyres indicates that both our combinations of rims and tyres can be fitted without tyre levers and without much effort (I can't get mine off without levers, whereas he can). The key is the combination of rim and tyre. I would, not, however, dispute that some combinations are difficult and, to the OP, I'd certainly not be 'converting to tubeless' if the rim is not at least 'tubeless ready'. So to the original post I'd say 'new rims or don't do it'.

 

[ColinJ]

For some unknown reason, people assume tubeless tyre's don't puncture, and that the sealant will stop any punctures.

They may not be perfect, but ... they are pretty damn good - LINK!!!!

PS Please don't try and smash a bottle with your bare hands, or without wearing eye protection, and jumping up and down on one is potentially a great way of injuring your feet or ankles!

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Chris Boardman* rolled a bike with tubeless tyres over a board with heaps of 3/4" approx' nails pointing upright and the results looked impressive to me. several punctures and instant sealing.

*Was on one of those waffley bits during the TdF coverage.

***

I am interested in tubeless - my new bike has tubeless ready rims (Bontrager) and I am definitely thinking about it.

Whilst researching I have read of some riders using eg Stans inside inner tubes.

Not wanting to derail the thread but maybe this would be a solution for the OP?

Anyone on here have any relevant experience of this type of set-up?

 

[screenman]

I use our of date car tyre sealant on my tubeless mtb bikes, not sure if being a tad past it's use by date affects it as I have not had a flat for a good while.

 

[Drago]

They were an answer to a question that no one has been asking for cracking on a hundred years.

 

[simon.r]

I don't have a lot of experience with tubeless, but I've just had my first problem.

I could not unscrew the top bit of the valve to check / top up the pressure. Eventually I ended up unscrewing the entire valve core, which turned out to be completely seized together - it was impossible to separate the two parts, even using grips. Googling suggest this isn't a one off occurrence.

Having said that, I've had no punctures in 1000 or so miles, except on one occasion when the tyre deflated significantly during a ride, but retained enough air to allow me to ride home. I suspect it was punctured then sealed. Possibly a bit silly, but I've stopped carrying a pump and spare tubes on most rides on the tubeless equipped bike now.

Installation's a bit of a faff, but not a major problem in the workshop. I wouldn't like to try it at the roadside. Although I understand that depends very much on the rim / tyre combination. Kinesis / Schwalbe 1 in my case.