Turkey, Bulgaria, Albania and former Yugoslavian states

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As part of my continuing tour (www.UniCycle50.com) I'll be cycling to the capitals of each of these countries in 2012. Does anyone have any tips, warnings or useful information about any or all of 'em? And what are the possibilities for camping and wild camping? Any highlights I shouldn't miss? All info gratefully received!

Cheers,
Steven
 

vernon

Harder than Ronnie Pickering
Location
Meanwood, Leeds
Your web site is broken.
 

memoman

Active Member
Location
Tiverton, Devon
Watch out for those Albanians!
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Sounds like a great idea. All the very best of luck!
 
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smith4188

smith4188

Veteran
People do wild camp I believe from tales I have read.
Have you looked on www.crazyguyonabike.com for reports of people who've been there?

I'm sure people do wild camp. I've even done it myself. I've only briefly looked at crazyguy. The reason I asked on here was that I was sort of hoping for trends - like "all the campsites I saw in Albania were awful" - rather than reading literally thousands of pages of which three hint that certain campsites in Albania are awful. But if no one kindly provides any trends then, yes, I'll trawl through as many reports as crazyguy has. Just thought I'd use the friendly, aggregating facility of CycleChat's experienced membership.

Cheers,
Steven
 

rich p

ridiculous old lush
Location
Brighton
There are a couple of posters on here that have been through Albania I think. Frank9755 is one and Percy another - hopefully they'll see this thread.

I had a plan for next summer, which I have had to shelve for the mo, to cycle down through Italy, ferry across to Albania and up through the Balkans to Ljubljana, so I have an interest in how you get on.
 

Percy

Well-Known Member
I entered Turkey briefly from Greece and then cycled up through Bulgaria to Sofia, then into Serbia and onto Romania, Hungary etc.

I found Bulgaria to be a very mixed country - very evident, desperate poverty in many of the smaller towns, beautiful countryside and a somewhat threatening feel to some areas, particularly in the big towns - I was told by some locals in Sofia that this was the strong mafia influence. Not that you need to be particularly wary - there's no real threat from the mafia to someone passing through on a bike, but it's useful to be aware of it. It does make you see the place in a different light, knowing that it's so strong an influence.

I stayed in hotels because they were cheap. I did have camping stuff with me but I don't remember ever seeing an 'official' campsite. Wild camping would be possible - you'd just have to pick your place carefully, as in other countries, although I would perhaps be a little more wary of being disturbed by people wanting to nick my stuff than in, say, France, where the main concern would be a farmer wanting me off his land. The towns are very interesting though and they all have a different atmosphere that you notice as you pass through the country, so it's worth spending some time in them. That said, some of the hotels were disgusting.

Serbia was similar, but I only touched the top right corner for three days or so.

I met a Swiss cyclist in Bulgaria who had come from Albania. He said the accommodation was awful but that it was a beautiful country in parts. I think he had come from the coast.

Highlight of Bulgaria for me was the ride from Sofia north to Vratsa - an amazing valley ride and Vratsa's a really nice town.
 
My experience was:
Turkey - great cycling, wonderful people, good food and no problem wild camping. The ride in to Istanbul was terrifying - the nearest I have come to death on a bike. But it was worth it - it is a really great city. The actual capital, Ankara is much less interesting.
Bulgaria - loved it. No problem wild camping. Really liked Sofia, but it was a nightmare finding our way out.
Serbia - the north of the country is awful, basically an Agri desert infested with rats. Not, great camping and awful food. The south is a bit better
 

frank9755

Cyclist
Location
West London
Albania is great cycling. I went all round it - part solo and with a CTC group. Our group leader had wild camped for a month there the previous year when he was planning the route for the tour.

Basically it is all great apart from the few busy roads along the coast and near Tirane. Saranda, the main resort, is a dump. My favourite bits were
- Schkoder, which is a real cycling city on a big, misty lake
- the limestone hills and gorges inland, especially on the way to Burel.
- Lake Ohrid - did a lap of that into macedonia
- Korcha and hills around it
- the SE corner - can't remember place names but very empty
- Gyrokaster and the roads on into Greece (did an epic 120 mile ride one day from G, down to Greece by main road and back to Albania by the border crossing near the coast and on to Saranda. May be the best day-ride I've ever done. Contained 4 x 10-mile fast downhill sections and hardly saw a car all day.)
- the mountain overlooking Tirane

Even better than Albania is the Montenegrin coast. Stunning. Kotor + bay is the absolute highlight but it is all very pretty. Budva is fun.
 
Location
Brussels
This site shows there are some official campsites around, even in Albania

http://en.camping.info/

Hi

I had a quick look at the website, sounds like a fantastic idea.

A few random thoughts:

Th order you are looking at doing this in seems very sensible certainly much easer to pass through Kosovo and head on to Skopje than to try and head North to Serbia
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It will be very hot in high summer, be prepared and look at route distances in light of this.

As Frank says Kotor is one of the most amazingly beautiful places.

Wildcamping: be very careful of landmines, especially in Bosnia, but also Kosovo and possibly Croatia depending on your route. In fact in Bosnia unless you are 200% certain do not wild camp.

Belgrade Zagreb Ljublijana. Belgrade Zagrenb in a straight line is flat and dull. One route would be to try and follow the Sava river. There is no formal path along it but you could approximate. An alternative would be to take the Danube to Novi Sad and then into Croatia to Osijek. Thereafter along the Drava river dropping down to Zagreb and then picking up the Sava there. Longer but some interesting places along the way.

If heading along the Montenegrin/Croatian coast try and steer clear of high season, in addition to the heat the traffic can be VERY bad.

Oh and i am deeply jealous
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smith4188

smith4188

Veteran
I had a quick look at the website, sounds like a fantastic idea...Oh and i am deeply jealous
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Thanks BalkanExpress and everyone else for all the tips. I'll try to incorporate as many of your recommendations as possible. I was aware of landmines in Kosovo but hadn't realised they were still lying around the other countries of former Yugoslavia too. Cycling with my legs blown off wouldn't be much fun. Any idea what I'd be paying for a cheap bed in these places? And how easy is it to find a bed outside of the capitals?

Yep, 2012's ride is going to be one of near constant heat. After spring in Spain, France and Italy, I'll be in Greece in June, which shouldn't be too bad, but then Turkey in July and the Balkans in August. It'll be hot. This summer I spent August cycling across Spain and Portugal in the high 30s and so I think I know what to expect heatwise.

Thanks once again!
 
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