Tyre size

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kiwifruit

Über Member
Location
Kent
Hi , what size tyres can I fit on mavic aksium one wheels. I usually fit michelin pro 4 25mm, a friend gave me 2 pairs of conti gp 4000s 23mm as he didn't like them he said it will fit those wheels. Am not sure it just look pretty narrow compare to the 25mm, will it by OK?
 
Hi , what size tyres can I fit on mavic aksium one wheels. I usually fit michelin pro 4 25mm, a friend gave me 2 pairs of conti gp 4000s 23mm as he didn't like them he said it will fit those wheels. Am not sure it just look pretty narrow compare to the 25mm, will it by OK?
They will take from 20 mm up to 28mm tyres, but be aware that at that width, the side walls become a bit more vulnerable, on Aksium One's. As long as your forks and calipers have the clearance, a robust 28 mm tyre will still work. I run with 23 mm tyres on my Aksium One's during the summer as a matter of course.

image.jpeg

That's the Triban on 23 mm tyres, on the Aksium one's.
 
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kiwifruit

kiwifruit

Über Member
Location
Kent
They will take from 20 mm up to 28mm tyres, but be aware that at that width, the side walls become a bit more vulnerable, on Aksium One's. As long as your forks and calipers have the clearance, a robust 28 mm tyre will still work. I run with 23 mm tyres on my Aksium One's during the summer as a matter of course.

View attachment 115042
That's the Triban on 23 mm tyres, on the Aksium one's.
 
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OP
kiwifruit

kiwifruit

Über Member
Location
Kent
Mavic themselves say they recommend between 25 and 32 mm tyres, but they often supply them with 23mm tyres, as a "wheel system". I wouldn't want to put anything skinnier than a 23 mm tyre on them either.
Yes, I've been on there website too, that's why I got confused. Thanks for the info.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
a friend gave me 2 pairs of conti gp 4000s 23mm as he didn't like them

He probably "didn't like them" because they roll slower on the road at the same pressure (as 25s) and are less comfortable. Or maybe they're the 'wrong' colour or the 'wrong' make. So, in the summer, do you want to be less comfortable or roll slower or both?

You'll need to run the 23s at slightly higher pressure than the 25s, about 10psi more should be enough to avoid 'pinch flats'.
Depends on what pressure OP was running his 25s. Suggest rather than just 'adding 10psi' read off from the chart here www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
 
OP
OP
kiwifruit

kiwifruit

Über Member
Location
Kent
Am running on 100psi on the pro 4 25mm.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
He probably "didn't like them" because they roll slower on the road at the same pressure (as 25s) and are less comfortable. Or maybe they're the 'wrong' colour or the 'wrong' make. So, in the summer, do you want to be less comfortable or roll slower or both?


Depends on what pressure OP was running his 25s. Suggest rather than just 'adding 10psi' read off from the chart here www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
That chart suggests a 20 psi increase for 23s over 25s and seems to be very accurate, I was gifted some Continental Grand Prix Supersonic tyres (20mm) and if I don't run the rear at about 150psi I get pinch flats.
Mind you their 'Max Rated Pressure is 170psi. :eek:
 
Am running on 100psi on the pro 4 25mm.
That will be fine on the 23's, unless you are quite heavy( ie over 90 Kg's) I run my 23's at about 90-100 psi, and have never had a pinch flat. The GP4000SII has got fantastic grip and rolling characteristics, but I've found them to be pretty poor on puncture resistance. As long as you can fit a tube on the ride, you'll be okay, the folding bead version ( the ones that you can fold up ) come on and off the rim very easily.
 
At first @Citius I thought you were talking about my post (for cross-chaining read cross-threading) but then I scrolled up and saw @Racing roadkill 's BTwin.
Modern chains can be virtually bent back on themselves without too many issues, again, experience, and mileage, has shown me that 'cross chaining' is pretty much B.S. (with modern kit) spouted by the JCL brigade, who also like to bang on about 'Cadence' and 'POWER' and the like. I wouldn't fancy an extreme chain line on a retro bike, with a 1970's chain, but you'd have to be doing something very wrong ( ie. riding big ring - big sprocket all the time) in order to cause an issue.
 

Citius

Guest
Modern chains can be virtually bent back on themselves without too many issues, again, experience, and mileage, has shown me that 'cross chaining' is pretty much B.S. (with modern kit) spouted by the JCL brigade, who also like to bang on about 'Cadence' and 'POWER' and the like. I wouldn't fancy an extreme chain line on a retro bike, with a 1970's chain, but you'd have to be doing something very wrong ( ie. riding big ring - big sprocket all the time) in order to cause an issue.

I just find it ironic that despite all your claimed mileage and experience, you still need to cross-chain on a triple. Anything that pulls the mech straight like that is an extreme chainline, 70s, 80s, 90s or otherwise. But with your experience, you will already know that...
 
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