Unknown frame, possibly raleigh -anyone help in a rough guesstimate

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Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
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Hi there, got this frame in a bunch of bikes I picked up. Was completely covered in a map. Unwrapping it revealed a 531 frame sticker but no other clues. The lugs seem quite nice and the only number I can find is on the inside left rear drop out, 001116. It does have a raleigh handlebar set which again look quite nice. The bottom bracket axle doesn't look like the standard cotter less crank set from raleigh as it has a hole for a bolt rather than using a nut to hold the crank on.

It does have a broken right drop out so wondering if it should just go the journey or get it replaced.

Pictures are here.
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biggs682

Touch it up and ride it
Location
Northamptonshire
looks nice enough , Raleigh's dont normally have fr numbers on rear drop out ?

nice lugwork though
 
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Tony Raynor

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Think it's 001116 to the best of my failing eyes. Doesn't seem to match anything I've seen before. My best guess is its an early 1980s raleigh due to the rear brake cable holders being on top, but the lugs seem too nice for a basic bike. Not sure about the paintwork as can't tell what's original and what isn't.

I can't decide on whether to try and get a new rear drop out, or I know someone who could probably get one machine cut to match the other and then welded on.

With so little of the bike, I think it's destined for either the bin or fixie.

Any comment on the bottom axle? I've not seen one like that, but must admit I've only really seen Raleigh's
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
Hi
The BB axle is standard square taper found on bikes after cottered systems. Square taper is around today and was not exclusive to Raleigh.
If it's genuine 531 it might be worth restoring. The drop-out can be fixed.
Talk to the likes of Bob Jackson in Leeds or Argos cycles in Bristol (who I wholeheartedly recommend) and find out a ball-park price for repair and respray.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Is there a number/code on the bottom bracket shell? What does the headtube look like (presumably a badge/label was there before)? Is the distance between rear dropouts 120mm, 126mm or something else?

Worth measuring the seat tube length (centre of bb to top of tube), then weigh it (if with full headset and bb then for frame+fork deduct roughly 600g). Is it possible to measure the diameter of a correct seatpost? The 531 label looks shiny...

Can't see the "broken" drive side dropout - is just the derailleur hanger missing? Some frames didn't have integral hangers but had add-on ones instead.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
I can, you have to squint a bit. The whole bottom half is missing.

I don't want to be presumptuous.... ;) If you are right the frame is junk in my view - it would not be worth the time and money to get the dropout replaced, and if it is not replaced I don't see how one can put a wheel on it.
 
I don't want to be presumptuous.... ;) If you are right the frame is junk in my view - it would not be worth the time and money to get the dropout replaced, and if it is not replaced I don't see how one can put a wheel on it.

Agreed. The whole lower half of the horiz dropout appears to be missing. The frame is effectively useless as it is, and probably not worth repairing in any case.
 
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Tony Raynor

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Well have decided to get it fixed as it won't cost me to get it cut out and new one replaced. It's destined for a fixie, but will have a go at some different style paintwork. Still need weigh the frame, but it's still very aesthetically pleasing with those lugs. Will update once I get the dropouts on and paint stripped off.
 
Well have decided to get it fixed as it won't cost me to get it cut out and new one replaced. It's destined for a fixie, but will have a go at some different style paintwork. Still need weigh the frame, but it's still very aesthetically pleasing with those lugs. Will update once I get the dropouts on and paint stripped off.

Don't cut anything. A decent builder should be able to sweat out the old dropout.
 
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