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summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
The other thing to think about is any changes you want to make at the time of purchase - so for example if you want the Marathon tyres, you should be able to get them to swap the tyres and you just pay the difference between the ones they provide and the Marathon ones.
 

g00se

Veteran
Location
Norwich
Yup - that's what I did. Changed helmet, different jacket, added some spares and tools, lost the mudguards (as the ones I had ordered wouldn't fit properly when they arrived) and, being cheeky, added a few things to the list for my other half's bike... and paid up the difference as it was a bit over.
 
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Jezston

Jezston

Über Member
Location
London
That Pinnacle looks purdy, but I think it's a bit too much of a stretch on the budget. Sadly the others are all too small for me in terms of what's left.

Good call on looking out for sale models, though. Guess I chose the wrong time of year for it!

Oh and got some padded gloves already, but may check a pair of those when the weather improves.
 
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Jezston

Jezston

Über Member
Location
London
That looks good, g00se, just concerned what they mean by 'mountain bike gear ratios' - that wouldn't mean they won't go as high as road bikes would they? My current mountain bike is a bit of a pain in this respect.
 

g00se

Veteran
Location
Norwich
I'm assuming they're referring to the low gear ratios - with the huge '1' cog on the back and the 'granny' ring on the front. With 700c wheels rather than 26" mountain bike wheels, you'll get better speed in the high gear on a hybrid with like for like gearing.

Lookin at the Dew Plus spec on the Evans site, the front chainring has three rings, with 48, 38 and 28 teeth respecitively. The rear cassette has 8 rings ranging from 11 to 34 teeth. That means top gear ratio is 48:11 (4.36:1).

With the Specialized Sirrus Sport, the front chainring is the same but the rear is 12 to 25 - so top gear ratio is 48:12 (4:1). So this bike has a very marginally lower high gear than the Kona.

Looking at road bikes, most have front chainrings with 2 rings with teeth counts on the large ring either 48, 50 or 53 (53 seems to be on the more expensive models). And on the rear, the smallest cog has either 11 or 12.

So a 53:11 (4.8:1) road bike has a slightly higher gear than the Dew Plus but there are road bikes with similar or smaller top ratios too. So I wouldn't worry about the ratios at all.

As an aside, the 34 teeth on the biggest rear cog on the Kona is larger than the granny ring on the front which has 28! You can basically cycle up a wall with that...
 
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Jezston

Jezston

Über Member
Location
London
Right!

So after much, much tooing and froing and more procrastination than is healthy for anyone, I have thought "eff it" and have ordered a bike.

It is a Trek 7.2 2010:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products...oogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle
(NOTE: not buying it from Evans, but the shop I'm buying it from - Samways in Derby - doesn't have it listed on their site yet)
With Shwalbe Marathon Plus tyres.

If you think I've made a terrible error let me know as I can still change it!

Otherwise, I could spend forever mulling over what is the 'perfect' bike!

And thank you all for all your help :biggrin:
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
Don't want to spoil your party.

I promised myself,,, the next commute bike I buy will have either discs or hub brakes.
After 25 years of riding to work, sintered brake blocks on alloy rims is not what I'm going to buy again for an 'every day wet weather' bike.

I'm riding with chromed steel and leather blocks nowadays to avoid the black mess on the rims, forks and stays at the lightest rainfall - or even road spray.

The bikes suggested earlier in the thread with disks were ( to my mind ) sensible recommendations.
 
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Jezston

Jezston

Über Member
Location
London
Shame, as I was going to get a Kona Dew (with disc brakes) but sadly the 2009's in my size are nowhere to be found and the 2010s don't appear to hit the UK until January :biggrin: (and they cost more).

Anyone else share jimboalee's views on disc brakes? (although not sure what hub brakes are) Would I be very sensible to reconsider?
 
I suppose it depends - as ever - on how far you'll be going and what the conditions you're likely to encounter will be like. Disk brakes are (so I've heard) a whole bunch better in the wet than rim brakes, not least for braking performance but also for pad wear and rim wear.

I commute ~ 7 miles each way on an entry level MTB, with rim brakes. I've been doing it since Feb 2008 and have barely missed a day since then. During last winter (when it was wet), I was having to replace brake blocks every 5-6 weeks. Since March this year, when we've not had much rain darn sarf, I replaced one set in July and then just had to do another set a few weeks ago. It's got quite wet again darn 'ere in the last few weeks and so my new-ish blocks are already showing significant wear.

I also had to replace both the front and back wheel during the course of last winter, purely due to rim wear. This despite being fairly pernickety about keeping the rims clean, replacing blocks and so on. ;)

My commute home takes me through a few hundred yards of woods with deep muddy puddles. As a consequence, I pick up mud and grit on my wheel rims. I then have about a mile of downhill on a single lane country road, which means I'm braking rather a lot. You can hear all that freshly picked up paste grinding away brakes and rims as you go. :ohmy:

I looked at replacing my commuter with a Giant Escape M8 (hub gears and brakes - I'll let someone else explain how they work!!) for lower maintenance this winter, but work have just arranged to relocate a whole bunch closer to (my) home so my commute will be ~3 miles, nearly all in the woods. Given that, and as the Escape has been discontinued, I'm wondering whether to just get a better MTB with disk brakes .. :biggrin:
 
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