Upgrading cyclocross cantilevers to v-brakes - possible?

[Deefex]

At the moment, I'm looking to purchase a cyclocross bike (through a work C2W scheme) with the intention of using it as a commuting workhorse. I intend to put mudguards and a rear rack on it, but an looking for some information on one particular point - can I upgrade the cantilever brakes that seem ubiquitous on these bikes to something more reliable like V-brakes with a travel agent extension for cable pull, etc? The two models I'm considering are:

Cannondale CAADX Tiagra
http://www.cannondale.com/gbr/2013/bikes/road/cyclocross/caadx/caadx-6-tiagra-compact-crankset

Dolan Multicross 105
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/cyclo-cr...oss/Shimano B Option/Cyc Cross?product_id=421

I'm assuming that the mount points on the frame for the supplied cantilevers can also be used for v-brakes as well, so I don't have to worry about any incompatibility issues, do I?

I know there are also cyclocross models out there that have disc brakes but I'd prefer to stay with rims for the moment.

All advice appreciated.

 

[Nigeyy]

I'll give this a shot.....

My first question is why? What's more reliable about v-brakes? Well setup quality cantis with appropriate levers and pads can be excellent (in fact, my commuter has cantis that are excellent even though I could put v-brakes on). FWIW, the cantis I have provide excellent modulation -and no matter which v brake up setup I've tried, they still seem a bit binary (i.e. on or off for braking) -you can put me down as saying I actually prefer the cantis I've had. The only downsides to cantis I see (again, assuming you have the right components to go with them) is that they do tend to be a bit more finickety setting up compared to the v-brakes with the straddle cable, are more dependent on straight and true rims, and can have a little less space with some mudguards. The newer style of cantis with the adoption of the v brake like pads with the convex/concave washers over the smooth posts has definitely alleviated some of the awkwardness in setting them up.

OK, so you're not convinced..... And I do agree that v-brakes are simpler with the just one cable style and easier to setup. The answer is yes, you can setup v-brakes with the posts used by cantis. However, as you noted, you will need travel agents to accomodate the extra cable pull required with the change of brake style. I've never used these, but I know a couple of people who have, and they both ended up getting rid of them citing they are very awkward to use and setup. Given that and the cost of travel agents, it would seem that the best way forward is to just get proper long pull levers in the first place (compared to the market some years ago, I think we now have more choices for road brake levers with long pulls). Of course, if you have STI or Ergo, that's not an option.

I'm a bit opinionated when it comes to canti brakes; I've read so many posts by people about cantis that directly contradict my experience with them. I'm also of the belief that cantis, v-brakes, pivot brakes, disc brakes are all excellent brake designs when setup properly with the right components (none of the designs would have had the longevity they have had if they aren't), so if you want v-brakes, go for it!

 

[SpokeyDokey]

TRP CX9's are very good - I have them on my TCX1 - and you do not need travel agents with them.

If you get these change the squealy road cartridges for V cartridges such as Ashima.

They are very powerful brakes and are easy to modulate plus you 100% avoid any chance of canti' shudder.

 

[Nigeyy]

Oops, forgot about mini-vs -they would definitely be an option (though they can be tight with mudguards for the clearance at the top and I do wonder about the degree of modulation you'll be able to achieve). They'd not need different brake levers though or travel agents as SpokeyDokey said.

You pays your money, you takes your choice!

 

[snailracer]

IMO, V-brakes have a well-deserved reputation for reliability for the following reasons that haven't already been mentioned:

1. Their power remains fairly consistent as the brake blocks wear, and wear is easily compensated for by a single adjustment. This is also true for mini-V's, but not cantis

2. Their long travel allows operation at low cable tension, which means V-brakes have excellent power and modulation even with low-quality brake cable or poor routing. Mini-V's do not share this advantage, unfortunately.

For me, I don't consider the trickier initial setup for cantis to be a disadvantage because the straddle cable length allows power vs travel to be customised (e.g. stronger front, weaker rear).

 

[Little yellow Brompton]

At the moment, I'm looking to purchase a cyclocross bike (through a work C2W scheme) with the intention of using it as a commuting workhorse. I intend to put mudguards and a rear rack on it, but an looking for some information on one particular point - can I upgrade the cantilever brakes that seem ubiquitous on these bikes to something more reliable like V-brakes with a travel agent extension for cable pull, etc? d.

Upgrade? More reliable?

 

[User482]

IME, v-brakes are much easier to set up and are more powerful in the wet.

 

[PpPete]

I'm with Nigeyy on this.

IME, v-brakes are much easier to set up and are more powerful in the wet.

My cantis (25 years old but what would now be called cyclo-cross style cantis) are quite powerful enough to lock up my rear wheel on the flat and on the steepest hills, in both wet and dry conditions. Why would I want anything more powerful?
Modulation is fine enough for me.
Koolstop Dual-Compound pads are probably worth the expense. Good grip, don't seem to get rim or grit fragments embedded in the surface and don't wear down that quickly. Cost is quite high for pads, but much less than a pair of V-brakes.

 

[paulmad]

i bought clarks 72mm v brake pads from crc they fit no bother and were miles better. the cantis do look naff though

 

[User482]

I'm with Nigeyy on this.


My cantis (25 years old but what would now be called cyclo-cross style cantis) are quite powerful enough to lock up my rear wheel on the flat and on the steepest hills, in both wet and dry conditions. Why would I want anything more powerful?
Modulation is fine enough for me.
Koolstop Dual-Compound pads are probably worth the expense. Good grip, don't seem to get rim or grit fragments embedded in the surface and don't wear down that quickly. Cost is quite high for pads, but much less than a pair of V-brakes.

And your front brake?
The reason for my comment was that I recently changed from cantis to v-brakes on my commuting bike (I bought them for £5 from a bike jumble), as I simply didn't have enough braking power when towing a trailer, particularly in the wet. V brakes are more powerful in the wet, are easier to set up and give better mud clearance - something well known to us mtbers who changed over to them back in the 90s! I bought them for £5 from a bike jumble.

I understand that the old style wide-profile cantis are more powerful than low profile, which might be ok if there is sufficient heel clearance.

What I should've said to the OP is why don't you want to use discs? They are so much better.

 

[MacB]

What I should've said to the OP is why don't you want to use discs? They are so much better.

right now that would be my one and only question as well, though maybe it's a pricepoint thing.

 

[snailracer]

Changing to discs would also require a compatible fork and frame, i.e. a new bike.

 

[User482]

Changing to discs would also require a compatible fork and frame, i.e. a new bike.

The OP was asking about buying a new bike!

If it were me, I'd want discs, or at least provision for them.

 

[Nigeyy]

I will say that my front (and rear) canti on my commuter is very powerful (I believe as powerful as any v-brake I've tried). I won't say I've tried to lock it up though! I also think from my experience the power of both brake styles being able to lock up wheels (assuming good quality components, well setup, blah, blah, etc) is more than comparable.

Aside from the simpler setup for v's, the biggest difference by far for me has been better modulation on the cantis -something I value greatly. The best I've been able to setup some v's with slightly shorter cable pull on the levers still doesn't seem to match the feel of the cantis I've had. However, since my cantis are on my commuter and hence won't get clogged up on the roads, I'm more than willing to overlook the slightly more complex setup (and how often do you setup anyway?) to get that modulation.

Yeah, given everything though, I'm with you and I'd probably opt for a good pair of discs too -but that would mean looking at a more expensive bike (something else not mentioned in previous posts is that when you upgrade to discs, you also need the hubs or new wheels too).

And your front brake?
The reason for my comment was that I recently changed from cantis to v-brakes on my commuting bike (I bought them for £5 from a bike jumble), as I simply didn't have enough braking power when towing a trailer, particularly in the wet. V brakes are more powerful in the wet, are easier to set up and give better mud clearance - something well known to us mtbers who changed over to them back in the 90s! I bought them for £5 from a bike jumble.

I understand that the old style wide-profile cantis are more powerful than low profile, which might be ok if there is sufficient heel clearance.

What I should've said to the OP is why don't you want to use discs? They are so much better.

 

[Rohloff_Brompton_Rider]

Being a heavy bugger, I found canti's suck and didn't stop me on hilly rides. I had brake judder at the front and no modulation whatsoever, I changed my tcx1 to mini v's and life was far far safer.