Veloce 10 speed cassette to athena11 speed cassette

[Philhh]

Someone will Know! We have bike with campy vento g3 rims and a 10 speed campy veloce cassette on it the other bike has Alexrims cx26 rims and a Miche 11speed campy athena compatible cassette on.I'd like to be able to change the cassettes over so the campy rims go on the lightest (athena speced )bike can anyone see any problems with this?

 

[StuAff]

Someone will Know! We have bike with campy vento g3 rims and a 10 speed campy veloce cassette on it the other bike has Alexrims cx26 rims and a Miche 11speed campy athena compatible cassette on.I'd like to be able to change the cassettes over so the campy rims go on the lightest (athena speced )bike can anyone see any problems with this?

It'll work perfectly well- Campagnolo kept the same freehub body specifications, so no problems switching the cassettes over.

 

[Tin Pot]

Someone will Know! We have bike with campy vento g3 rims and a 10 speed campy veloce cassette on it the other bike has Alexrims cx26 rims and a Miche 11speed campy athena compatible cassette on.I'd like to be able to change the cassettes over so the campy rims go on the lightest (athena speced )bike can anyone see any problems with this?

Nope, go ahead.

You need the right tools though.

I think it's a park tool BBT-5, and a torque wrench set to 40Nm

 

[Philhh]

Thanks guys it's raining tomorrow so that's the job.!

 

[Apollonius]

There is no problem getting Campagnolo cassettes off. They use the same splined tool as Shimano in the middle and you can use a big adjustable spanner on that to get some leverage. Stabilise against the freewheel with a standard chain-whip. No need for a torque wrench to do it up again. As long as it doesn't come loose, the torque is not critical. Ten minute job. (Just make sure you keep all the bits in order!)

 

[derrick]

There is no problem getting Campagnolo cassettes off. They use the same splined tool as Shimano in the middle and you can use a big adjustable spanner on that to get some leverage. Stabilise against the freewheel with a standard chain-whip. No need for a torque wrench to do it up again. As long as it doesn't come loose, the torque is not critical. Ten minute job. (Just make sure you keep all the bits in order!)

It'a a different tool for Campag.

 

[Apollonius]

It'a a different tool for Campag.

You might be right - I just pick one out of my toolbox, and I think I use the same one that does Shimano frewheels, but it is easily available and cheap - unlike most Campagnolo tools!

 

[Ajax Bay]

There is no problem getting Campagnolo cassettes off. They use the same splined tool as Shimano in the middle . . . .You might be right - I just pick one out of my toolbox, and I think I use the same one that does Shimano frewheels, but it is easily available and cheap - unlike most Campagnolo tools!

@derrick isn't just possibly "might" be right, he is right, and your advice errs. The spline pattern is different between Campagnolo and Shimano (both 12 spline) lockrings. I hope you have not damaged your various lockrings forcing the wrong tool in. Lockring tools to fit Campagnolo and Shimano freehubs cost about the same (~£7) (provided you don't get a branded Campagnolo one). Provided you have three tools: one for a freewheel, and two for Campagnolo and Shimano freehub/cassette lockrings you're sorted.
The Park Campagnolo specific one is this:
http://www.parktool.com/product/freewhe ... bt-5-fr-11
Quite different from the Shimano specific one:
http://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5-2
The Campagnolo splines are only 0.3mm with an OD of circa 22.8mm. The Shimano splines are 0.8mm with an OD of circa 23.4mm (NB measurements on my Campagnolo tool and a generic Shimano one).
The Shimano one won't fit properly as the mark/space ratio of the splines is wrong. They have the correct number of splines, but they are the wrong shape. Campagnolo splines are 50/50 whilst the Shimano ones are more like 40/60 - ie peaks are narrower than the valleys. An OEM Campagnolo tool fits just the same as the Park one but has tapers so it fits snugly: make sure it's pushed home securely. The splines are shorter so you have to be carefully it stays in (by putting the QR back in, for example) before applying torque.