WD40 for your Chain!

[S.Giles]

Saying bike lube is £270 a gallon sounds extortionate but really it's meaningless because you simply don't need to use anything like that amount.

Er....oh, never mind!

Aren't bicycle chains supposed to be black? I always assumed that the black colour was due to microscopic metal particles suspended in the oil, rather than anything intrinsic to the oil itself.

 

[downfader]

Your point about the price holds water, of course, but the counter point is that it's still peanuts for what you use.

Your point about the black and gunky has been proved against you I am afraid...based on your own evidence in that photo! That's just unacceptable on one of my bikes. Mine will never get in that state!

Away from home, so can't go a close-up, but you get my drift:

View attachment 79889

To be fair - using Mucoff "blue" wet oil... that turns the chain black too.

 

[bpsmith]

To be fair - using Mucoff "blue" wet oil... that turns the chain black too.

I tend to use Muc Off Dry Ceramic, which doesn't make the chain turn black. Recently turned to their Ceramic Wet, as riding more in the Winter now, and that's not turned the chain black either tbh.

Perhaps it's down to how much you plaster the chain with it?

I tend to follow the one drop per link regime.

 

[winjim]

[QUOTE 3537306, member: 9609"]The comparison was to demonstrate the very high cost of this oil, yes we know marketing in small quantities is going to be more expensive. Lets be generous and say the extra costs involved in providing the oil in a 100ml container is £1.00 (the pound store has a range of all manner of stuff in 100ml bottles) The recommended retail for the wet lube is £6.99 link minus the presumed bottling costs of £1 gives us oil at £272 per gallon. Some of the most expensive fully synthetic engine oils designed to meet the needs of modern high performance diesel engines are only about £50 a gallon, so what exactly is in this bike lube that makes it so expensive.[/QUOTE]
An interesting comparison regarding bottling small quantities is that a gallon bottle of finish line wet lube costs £70, but a two oz bottle costs £4. So that's £70/gal compared with £256/gal making the small bottle 3.65 times more expensive.

 

[winjim]

[QUOTE 3538455, member: 9609"]In fact that is worse, (20 fluid ounces in a pint not 16). Therefore working out at £320 per gallon. A good example of wildly overpricing by effectively charging an extra £3.12 to fill and provide each mini bottle.[/QUOTE]
They use American units but yes, an extra three quid or so either way.

 

[Chris S]

I think WD40 are extending the brand to other lubricants.

I wonder how long it will be before they compete with KY Jelly?

 

[confusedcyclist]

[QUOTE 3536106, member: 9609"]£270 per gallon as opposed to £14 per gallon for Oregon super chain saw oil - the choice is yours.[/QUOTE]
I was looking for cheaper alternatives to the standard fair. Has anyone sussed chain degreaser???

Also quick question, how the hell do you apply it from the gallon container?

 

[confusedcyclist]

Also quick question, how the hell do you apply it from the gallon container?

OH!

 

[jarlrmai]

Seems the lube debate is as endless as the helmet debate.

 

[winjim]

I was looking for cheaper alternatives to the standard fair. Has anyone sussed chain degreaser???

Also quick question, how the hell do you apply it from the gallon container?

I can't tell whether you are joking.

 

[bpsmith]

OH!

How much does one of those cost btw? Have to factor everything in to the comparison

 

[youngoldbloke]

[QUOTE 3539777, member: 9609"]Good grief - has that bike ever been outside ?

I really cold not envisage ever buying a special oil for something as basic as a bike chain, seriously I would rather use chip fat or used engine oil than buy something special for the bike.

[/QUOTE]
- as I posted in a previous 'chainsaw oil' thread last summer:
"I run 3 bikes regularly, I use around 4oz Progold Prolink a year. Just about to order 16 oz pack from Evans - £15.29 - should last me getting on for 4 years = £3.83 a year = about 7.5p per week ......... there are lots of other things I could economize on before having to cut down on this extravagant indulgence!"
I apply it with a hypodermic, and use it on all the other pivot points on the bike - mechs, brakes, cable adjusters etc.

 

[ianrauk]

- as I posted in a previous 'chainsaw oil' thread last summer:
"I run 3 bikes regularly, I use around 4oz Progold Prolink a year. Just about to order 16 oz pack from Evans - £15.29 - should last me getting on for 4 years = £3.83 a year = about 7.5p per week ......... there are lots of other things I could economize on before having to cut down on this extravagant indulgence!"
I apply it with a hypodermic, and use it on all the other pivot points on the bike - mechs, brakes, cable adjusters etc.

I don't use a hypodermic rather then a tiny drop on each link. And like you a bottle lasts years. It really is weird that some people are so penny pinching over something as mundane as a £5.00 bottle of chain oil. But hey we are all different at the end of the day.

 

[bpsmith]

[QUOTE 3539777, member: 9609"]Good grief - has that bike ever been outside ?

It's quite funny that you think my chain and cassette look a bit dirty; I fitted a new rear tyre the other day and whilst at it, and totally out of character I cleaned the whole of the back wheel and the chain and cassette, so that picture is just a bit of a cheat, I have never known it to be so immaculate. .

Something else that I am sure you will be impressed with - I have a paint pot with some chainsaw oil in, and when I clean off the mud etc that builds up around the bottom bracket etc- I liberally paint the stuff onto the frame with a brush - keeps it health and stops any rust getting established. In fact I slop the stuff onto about everything, its just the ultimate oil, any tools that only get used once in a while, paint some sticky oil onto it and i will be like new the next time you need it.. And the cost, well actually its sort of free, I do a lot of work with a chainsaw.

I really cold not envisage ever buying a special oil for something as basic as a bike chain, seriously I would rather use chip fat or used engine oil than buy something special for the bike.

I must remember to take some pics in a few weeks time when my bike gets back into character LOL
BTW, I am impressed with your machine, but may be not for me.[/QUOTE]
That's the Winter bike. Bought in August 2013, when 2014 just announced. That's how it usually looks tbh.

It's just been stripped down to clean thoroughly. Took most of the components off to clean and then waxed the frame thoroughly. Even better than coating with oil, is to stop anything sticking to it!

I barely need to touch the frame now, it's so clean after every ride. Drivetrain still needs attention obviously, but I like to keep my stuff perfect wherever possible.

Summer bike is also spotless, but only bought this August, so should be really.

Each to their own, I hear you!

 

[rovers1875]

Your point about the price holds water, of course, but the counter point is that it's still peanuts for what you use.

Your point about the black and gunky has been proved against you I am afraid...based on your own evidence in that photo! That's just unacceptable on one of my bikes. Mine will never get in that state!

Do you actually ride the bike or is it just a work of art? My chain and cassette haven't been that clean since it came out of the shop.