What have I bought?

[Bonefish Blues]

That rather depends on what the desired ride characteristic was. Not everyone wants a bike frame that is as stiff as an iron girder, despite all the nonsense that gets trotted out about power transfer. Reynolds 531ST was fairly late to the party in the 531 timeline and plenty of non-racing bikes were built with standard Reynolds 531, even during the time the ST tubeset was available. If you compare ST with the regular stuff, it is noticeably beefier, and results in a frame a good half pound heavier.
I've heard ST called a bit unforgiving by a rider describing how their unladen 22 1/2" Dawes Galaxy felt, although I have ridden a ST framed Galaxy and I wouldn't consider it a harsh frame at all - but then I am larger and heavier than the rider I was talking to. For all the different frames I've ridden, I still consider my regular 531 Raleigh Royal to have the most comfortable ride without any question.

I too had a Royal in 531 (with plain gauge stays - one of the green framed ones). The 531 was very adequate for touring, I didn't ever feel the need for a heavier gauge, even for cycle touring. I wouldn't have wanted anything more compliant (like 531C) though, which was the point I was making.

 

[guybagnall]

hello and welcome to cyclechat I can only point you in the direction of entering eclipse countryman on bike radar for a review and bit of history .What model is it? I have a countryman in the shed with a rear triangle out of line .What are your refurb plans ? any pictures ?

Hi - Sorry for the late reply, I have been up to my elbows in CIF - the eternal answer to most questions - photo attached as cleaned up prior to attaching new decals. I was kindly sent a Bike Buyer's guide from '85/6 and the Countryman is exactly the same spec as mine, with only the minor difference that my brakes are Weinmann 750/610 not 999 (same as the Routier version). My sons replaced the brake levers with modest Shimano (they were working at the original Evans, Waterloo at the time), otherwise pretty original (new B17 as the old one fell apart - I now wish I'd kept it for reskinning). The mudguards went as well, but I have some decent ones to replace them with. The de-luxe paint job is a tin of Humbrol dabbed into the hundred or so scratches instead of a repaint - I preferred to keep the old paint as it's not bad still - for 35 years old. Cleaning the spokes was the hardest, T Cut saved the day (I drink that with a CIF chaser), but still far from proper. Christophe Specials still to be attached, and I did improve the botched rear cable hanger with an elegant Mafac, and went mad buying an adjustable Dia Comp version plus a front one with QR to replace the very-pitted Weinmann original. I cheated on some of the original chromework with a liquid-chrome pen - looks good but probably won't last.

 

[roley poley]

Hi - Sorry for the late reply, I have been up to my elbows in CIF - the eternal answer to most questions - photo attached as cleaned up prior to attaching new decals. I was kindly sent a Bike Buyer's guide from '85/6 and the Countryman is exactly the same spec as mine, with only the minor difference that my brakes are Weinmann 750/610 not 999 (same as the Routier version). My sons replaced the brake levers with modest Shimano (they were working at the original Evans, Waterloo at the time), otherwise pretty original (new B17 as the old one fell apart - I now wish I'd kept it for reskinning). The mudguards went as well, but I have some decent ones to replace them with. The de-luxe paint job is a tin of Humbrol dabbed into the hundred or so scratches instead of a repaint - I preferred to keep the old paint as it's not bad still - for 35 years old. Cleaning the spokes was the hardest, T Cut saved the day (I drink that with a CIF chaser), but still far from proper. Christophe Specials still to be attached, and I did improve the botched rear cable hanger with an elegant Mafac, and went mad buying an adjustable Dia Comp version plus a front one with QR to replace the very-pitted Weinmann original. I cheated on some of the original chromework with a liquid-chrome pen - looks good but probably won't last. View attachment 525414

notice you lost the cant bosses too did you have to do any drilling to fix on the centre pulls she looks nice

 

[guybagnall]

Centre pulls OE, I don't think there were ever canti bosses (as far as I know!).
It's too long since sitting on the B17 - I used to have it tipped up but not good for the wedding tackle - and I'd forgotten how I slide forward all the time on it - very annoying - any tips? The most useful tip I have read so far was to sit well back but not sure that will stop the sliding. Ordered Proofide but I guess that takes ages to work and meanwhile... (aargh)

 

[roley poley]

Centre pulls OE, I don't think there were ever canti bosses (as far as I know!).
It's too long since sitting on the B17 - I used to have it tipped up but not good for the wedding tackle - and I'd forgotten how I slide forward all the time on it - very annoying - any tips? The most useful tip I have read so far was to sit well back but not sure that will stop the sliding. Ordered Proofide but I guess that takes ages to work and meanwhile... (aargh)

oops my fault looked at the OP pic by GUZZI for my reference on cant bosses

 

[guybagnall]

My Suntour Cyclone MII front derailleur spring returns and pulls the chain back to the small cog from the large cog. Adjustment is well beyond the range of the two adjustment screws. The cable/lever will pull it onto the big cog, but the spring pulls it straight back - I can't get my head around what needs adjusting to deal with the problem (driving me slightly bonkers)...

 

[midlife]

You need to tighten the shifter so the spring on the mech cannot move it?

 

[guybagnall]

Midlife - Saved my crisis - thank you - dense of me not to think of that! Mille Grazie!