FrankCrank
Old layabout
Nice and sturdy for the next haul of project bikes eh
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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Nice and sturdy for the next haul of project bikes eh
You’ve always got to be ready to pounce on these Gumtree bargains!
12boy
Guru
- Location
- Casper WY USA
Gunk, you know that Peugot is begging for a nice honey colored saddle to go with the bar tape and if you fit toeclips, tan ones too.
The next owner can do that, it’s being collected in the morning!
Swapped my Race Face 90mm stem for another Race Face 60mm with 31.8 mm clamp. Took off the Ritchey Rizer bars and fitted 680mm Dabomb Tactical Hi rise bars. Removed Acera 8 speed shifter and fitted an LX shifter and new cable. Getting all the levers, grips and shifters in the right place so they don't obstruct each other took some doing.
I have the left hand shifter to fit tomorrow, the simple plastic Deore shifter that it will replace actually sits snugly under the brake lever and in retrospect I may have just bought a matching right hand trigger shifter. Still, the LX shifters are well made, if a little heavy.
Swapped out the Hollowtech BB and Crank for an identical (but much better nick) LX 572 triple. Mucked around with the Deore front mech. I have a new LX mech which I may get around to fitting tomorrow. Still waiting on nukeproof pedals that were ordered 3 weeks ago, and it would be nice to upgrade the rear mech before the o erhaul is done.
The old 26ers had a fair whack of money thrown at it but I have a few spares now. I think I may have been better off with a 40mm stem, as it is the bike looks a bit like an old ATB bike. The hi rise bars are just great, there bike just feels bigger and I can get behind the saddle without having to drop it.
I have the left hand shifter to fit tomorrow, the simple plastic Deore shifter that it will replace actually sits snugly under the brake lever and in retrospect I may have just bought a matching right hand trigger shifter. Still, the LX shifters are well made, if a little heavy.
Swapped out the Hollowtech BB and Crank for an identical (but much better nick) LX 572 triple. Mucked around with the Deore front mech. I have a new LX mech which I may get around to fitting tomorrow. Still waiting on nukeproof pedals that were ordered 3 weeks ago, and it would be nice to upgrade the rear mech before the o erhaul is done.
The old 26ers had a fair whack of money thrown at it but I have a few spares now. I think I may have been better off with a 40mm stem, as it is the bike looks a bit like an old ATB bike. The hi rise bars are just great, there bike just feels bigger and I can get behind the saddle without having to drop it.
Bad Machine
In the garage .....
- Location
- East Anglia
Slightly different before and after photos to share.
Four weeks ago I took an off badly and broke my collarbone.
It may be a while before I can comfortably ride the upright again, so the recumbent trike (which was in bits at the time, for servicing) needs putting back together. I'm starting with the small jobs - today was removing rusted front mudguard clamps (Dremel) and replacing with new, and re-mounting the lower stay (riveter).
Four weeks ago I took an off badly and broke my collarbone.
It may be a while before I can comfortably ride the upright again, so the recumbent trike (which was in bits at the time, for servicing) needs putting back together. I'm starting with the small jobs - today was removing rusted front mudguard clamps (Dremel) and replacing with new, and re-mounting the lower stay (riveter).
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I have run out of spare chains.
I realised that I could just replace the broken outer link with a quicklink so I did that to get the bike back on the road. (I use it for many of my trips to the shops - I wouldn't want to risk leaving my best bike unattended, even though I use a very chunky d-lock.)
I have ordered a new chain and will replace the worn one with that and reclaim the barely used quicklink.
mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
Stuck QR skewer. Total failure. Might get it out after soaking in dismantling fluid but I fear it'll snap in there. New axle (on clearance!) and skewer ordered in case I can't fix it.
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
And I do
12boy
Guru
- Location
- Casper WY USA
I grease everything except the square spindle on bottom brackets. Why not? Grease is cheap. Helps prevent aluminum-steel corrosion, eases putting on parts or removing them. Grease and rags to clean up excess are my friends in keeping bikes riding well.
I’ve been meaning to sort out my rear shock on my MTB for a while now. It was rebuilt a couple of years ago and I’ve never been happy with it, it just seems too soft. I couldn’t find the original manual so I’ve just lived with it. A quick Google today and I downloaded the manual which gave the PSI settings.
I put the correct pressure in for my weight adjusted the rebound and hey presto, perfect! A nice simple fix which I should have done years ago.
I put the correct pressure in for my weight adjusted the rebound and hey presto, perfect! A nice simple fix which I should have done years ago.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
I've got a confession to make; there was an outbreak of weight weenyism earlier today at SkipdiverTowers.
A few months back, I acquired a fairly light road saddle and alloy seatpost as part of one of my bargain bucket used bike purchases. When I measured it in an idle moment, I was surprised to find it was a 25.4 mm, the size normally found on the less exotic variety of Raleighs, but chromed steel. That got me thinking, my 501 framed Pioneer has a 25.4 seatpost, so why not swap the steel one for this lightweight alloy one?.
The very good comfortable Selle San Marco saddle that came with the Pioneer weighs 0.82 lbs, and the steel seatpost weighs 0.7 lbs. So I weighed the alloy one before fitting it-0.61lbs. It's a good seatpost with fine angle adjustment increments, but the weight saving for all the faffing around was a massive 1 1/2 ounces!
Moral of the story; don't always assume fitting an alloy part in place of a steel one will give you a huge weight saving - often the difference will be pretty small.
Then, during my 17 mile morning ride the gearchanges started to get rough and noisy. I tweaked the barrel adjuster en route, but the respite was only temporary, so I eventually gave up on it and returned to base. Nothing was obviously amiss so I was rather confused about the cause of the racket - until I grabbed the freewheel cluster and discovered I could move it sideways along the axis of the axle! Oddly it is still transmitting drive and freewheeling OK even in that condition. I suppose I shouldn't complain too much as the wheelset came off a 99p eBay special and I've had getting on for a thousand miles out of it, plus the chain is still the one the bike came with and could be the original 1995 one for all I know!. Looks like a new 14-28 freewheel and 6 speed chain is on the cards, glad I don't run 11 speed stuff....
A few months back, I acquired a fairly light road saddle and alloy seatpost as part of one of my bargain bucket used bike purchases. When I measured it in an idle moment, I was surprised to find it was a 25.4 mm, the size normally found on the less exotic variety of Raleighs, but chromed steel. That got me thinking, my 501 framed Pioneer has a 25.4 seatpost, so why not swap the steel one for this lightweight alloy one?.
The very good comfortable Selle San Marco saddle that came with the Pioneer weighs 0.82 lbs, and the steel seatpost weighs 0.7 lbs. So I weighed the alloy one before fitting it-0.61lbs. It's a good seatpost with fine angle adjustment increments, but the weight saving for all the faffing around was a massive 1 1/2 ounces!
Moral of the story; don't always assume fitting an alloy part in place of a steel one will give you a huge weight saving - often the difference will be pretty small.
Then, during my 17 mile morning ride the gearchanges started to get rough and noisy. I tweaked the barrel adjuster en route, but the respite was only temporary, so I eventually gave up on it and returned to base. Nothing was obviously amiss so I was rather confused about the cause of the racket - until I grabbed the freewheel cluster and discovered I could move it sideways along the axis of the axle! Oddly it is still transmitting drive and freewheeling OK even in that condition. I suppose I shouldn't complain too much as the wheelset came off a 99p eBay special and I've had getting on for a thousand miles out of it, plus the chain is still the one the bike came with and could be the original 1995 one for all I know!. Looks like a new 14-28 freewheel and 6 speed chain is on the cards, glad I don't run 11 speed stuff....
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All uphill
Still rolling along
- Location
- Somerset
I love that metallic purple - what a colour!I've got a confession to make; there was an outbreak of weight weenyism earlier today at SkipdiverTowers.
A few months back, I acquired a fairly light road saddle and alloy seatpost as part of one of my bargain bucket used bike purchases. When I measured it in an idle moment, I was surprised to find it was a 25.4 mm, the size normally found on the less exotic variety of Raleighs, but chromed steel. That got me thinking, my 501 framed Pioneer has a 25.4 seatpost, so why not swap the steel one for this lightweight alloy one?.
The very good comfortable Selle San Marco saddle that came with the Pioneer weighs 0.82 lbs, and the steel seatpost weighs 0.7 lbs. So I weighed the alloy one before fitting it-0.61lbs. It's a good seatpost with fine angle adjustment increments, but the weight saving for all the faffing around was a massive 1 1/2 ounces!
Moral of the story; don't always assume fitting an alloy part in place of a steel one will give you a huge weight saving - often the difference will be pretty small.
View attachment 521390
Then, during my 17 mile morning ride the gearchanges started to get rough and noisy. I tweaked the barrel adjuster en route, but the respite was only temporary, so I eventually gave up on it and returned to base. Nothing was obviously amiss so I was rather confused about the cause of the racket - until I grabbed the freewheel cluster and discovered I could move it sideways along the axis of the axle! Oddly it is still transmitting drive and freewheeling OK even in that condition. I suppose I shouldn't complain too much as the wheelset came off a 99p eBay special and I've had getting on for a thousand miles out of it, plus the chain is still the one the bike came with and could be the original 1995 one for all I know!. Looks like a new 14-28 freewheel and 6 speed chain is on the cards, glad I don't run 11 speed stuff....
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
I really like the colour as well - it's my favourite out of all my bikes. It's official name is Mirror Red, and appears to have been applied over something else, possibly an aluminium/silver base layer. It's quite reminiscent of the old-school flamboyant paint finishes on vintage road frames. Unfortunately, the bike has seen a bit of action before it came into my hands and there are a few dings and scrapes on the top tube that detract from the appearance. I've never been tempted to respray it though, because there's no way I could ever replicate the finish Raleigh applied in the factory.
