What is your lowest gear and how low is too low. Are new bikes geared too high?

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Binky

Über Member
I ride compact 50/34 with 11-32 on cassette.

However, let's be honest how many are spinning out highest gear very often? Having lower gears to help on hills can only be a good thing.
As and when I change my bike I'll be looking at 11-34 I think, possibly 11-36 if ratios work for me.
 

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Über Member
Location
Hampshire, UK
I ride compact 50/34 with 11-32 on cassette.

However, let's be honest how many are spinning out highest gear very often? Having lower gears to help on hills can only be a good thing.
As and when I change my bike I'll be looking at 11-34 I think, possibly 11-36 if ratios work for me.

Swapping from 11-speed 11-32 to 11-34 on my Cube was a game changer, given the rolling hill lanes I usually rided around, it gave me a slightly easier bailout gear but also two more practical hill climbing gears at the time (now it doesn't take much of an incline to have me begging for 34/34)...

11-32: 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32

11-34: 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34
 

a.twiddler

Veteran
Back in the days when 5 speed was the technology and getting a double in the front with a range which your derailleur could manage without doing itself a mischief, you did well to have a 27" gear (on 27 X 1 1/4 wheels) combined with something that would let you do a reasonable speed on the flat. By modern standards the jumps between gears were huge, and you did a lot of freewheeling. If you wanted to be able to twiddle up hills, that was what you did, before mountain bikes came along and gearing technology improved. Even so, with a triple on the front, off the shelf tourers still might not have low enough gearing as they came. You might still have to experiment, and one of the conclusions was that the stated capacity of deraillers from manufacturers could be stretched a bit. You could often go from 32 to 34T on the back for example, without issues.

How low is too low? On two wheels I've had a bike with a 16" bottom gear and although it was rarely used, it was usable as long as you actually were able to keep rolling above about 3 mph. It was more useful to fit a larger chainring which raised it to 17 1/2" as a little change at the bottom end gave a gear about 9" higher at the top end. The set up was a SRAM 3X8 hybrid hub gear on a 20" wheel, one of the few situations where I've felt that raising the gearing was beneficial. This was actually a recumbent, but the principle is the same for anything.

When I bought a used Brompton 3 speeder a few years ago it felt like going back to the 1950s as far as the gearing was concerned. First was in the low 40s and I did some experimenting with it before I got it the way I wanted it. The town where I live has some steep ups and downs and if your gearing is capable of getting you across town, it'll be good for most places. I ended up adapting it with a 28T ring bolted to the inside of the 50T ring that it came with as the lightening holes matched the BCD of the small ring, with a 14T at the rear. I made up a spacer to move the BB fractionally to the right. It works fine, doesn't interfere with the fold as long as you remember to put the chain on the big ring. It gives a bottom gear of 24.66" which with the direct drive of the Brompton gets me up pretty much anything. It's a greasy finger change at the moment but I have a suitable adapter clamp so I might get around to bodging up a front derailleur in due course.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
On two touring (ish) bikes I run triple, but set up as a normal double plus an 'escape' gear. So 48-38 with a 10 speed cassette no larger than 29, and a 24 inner.
On the 'fun' bike, mostly for club runs and the ocassional shorter audax event, I have a 48-36 and an 11 speed cassette up to 29.
That way there are no big gaps in normal riding.
And then there's the fixed-wheel: 43x17. That's done a fair few miles.
I do live in Devon.
 
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Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
I run a 48,36,26 triple at front, and currently a 11-34 cassette. It is 9 speed. I have 622 rear with 30mm tyre. That puts the gear range at approx 20-116 inches I think. The rear derailluer can take up to 36 teeth cassette. This is on my recumbent and good for me up to 34% grades so far.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
IIRC the average speed over the TdF is 25mph. Apparently the riders run 54/40 chainrings.

Indeed but many road riders are not World Tour Pros. Nor do they descend closed road alpine descents as fast as World Tour Pros. Nor do they sprint at 40 mph, like World Tour Pros.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Location
Norfolk
Back in the days when 5 speed was the technology and getting a double in the front with a range which your derailleur could manage without doing itself a mischief, you did well to have a 27" gear (on 27 X 1 1/4 wheels) combined with something that would let you do a reasonable speed on the flat. By modern standards the jumps between gears were huge, and you did a lot of freewheeling. If you wanted to be able to twiddle up hills, that was what you did, before mountain bikes came along and gearing technology improved. Even so, with a triple on the front, off the shelf tourers still might not have low enough gearing as they came. You might still have to experiment, and one of the conclusions was that the stated capacity of deraillers from manufacturers could be stretched a bit. You could often go from 32 to 34T on the back for example, without issues.

How low is too low? On two wheels I've had a bike with a 16" bottom gear and although it was rarely used, it was usable as long as you actually were able to keep rolling above about 3 mph. It was more useful to fit a larger chainring which raised it to 17 1/2" as a little change at the bottom end gave a gear about 9" higher at the top end. The set up was a SRAM 3X8 hybrid hub gear on a 20" wheel, one of the few situations where I've felt that raising the gearing was beneficial. This was actually a recumbent, but the principle is the same for anything.

When I bought a used Brompton 3 speeder a few years ago it felt like going back to the 1950s as far as the gearing was concerned. First was in the low 40s and I did some experimenting with it before I got it the way I wanted it. The town where I live has some steep ups and downs and if your gearing is capable of getting you across town, it'll be good for most places. I ended up adapting it with a 28T ring bolted to the inside of the 50T ring that it came with as the lightening holes matched the BCD of the small ring, with a 14T at the rear. I made up a spacer to move the BB fractionally to the right. It works fine, doesn't interfere with the fold as long as you remember to put the chain on the big ring. It gives a bottom gear of 24.66" which with the direct drive of the Brompton gets me up pretty much anything. It's a greasy finger change at the moment but I have a suitable adapter clamp so I might get around to bodging up a front derailleur in due course.

On my 2007 2-speed Brompton i did the DIY conversion to 3 speed, at the same time changing the bb to JIS and some Spa 160mm cranks to be able to use a 10-speed chain and sprockets. it worked well, and the next step was to fit a 36T inner ring to go with the 52T outer. Fold fine as long as it's in the big ring - if in the small ring, there would be too much chain slack. I used one of the 40mm clamps from Ebay to fit a 'braze-on' type Shimano front derailleur, and it works great - the clamp means there is enough adjustment to get it perfect. I used 1mm flexible plastic 'double glazing' shims to pack out the 38mm seat tube to 40mm for the clamp, and suggest inner tube of similar will give problems because it's not rigid and will relax as well under load. I like close ratio, so used 12,13,15 sprockets giving a range from 39 -69 inches.
As you are A Twiddler, that would probably suit you as well ^_^
 
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