what tyres do you use / recommend?

[smokeysmoo]

I use gatoskins currently and find they are good but i will be looking at Durano plus as they have a rubber layer like a marathon plus in the tyre and come in 23`s .They were very highly rated in a cycling plus review a while back.

I run these on my Langster Steel, cracking tyre for fast commuting and much easier to fit that the Marathon+ on my Focus Mares.

 

[dirtybackbeat]

sorry all, thanks for your suggestions, after a lot of deliberating gonna get a pair of gatorskins. cheers and hope they last longer than the ones i've just burnt through!

 

[the_mikey]

I'll add my selection of tyres, in the vain hope of trying to find a consensus on the subject:

Vittoria rubino pro III - middle weight tyres with puncture protection, unless you're racing these are capable and practical in dry weather, I've never felt disadvantaged when using these tyres.

Continental gatorskin - heavy, but fast rolling tyres with serious puncture protection, these will be on my bike from September until April.

Had a very wet ride on sunday and the Vittoria Rubino pro III's just ended up cut to bits, it seems wet weather, and tiny bits of glass don't mix with these tyres (I pulled out several pieces of glass after that).


Also: FOLDING continental gatorskins are considerably lighter than the wire bead version, I've decided to order another set of wheels so I can have gatorskins on one set and my other brand tyre of choice on the others so I can change quickly depending on ride conditions without fuss before going on a ride.

 

[Glover Fan]

Do you know what? I'm not exactly qualified to have a massive opinion on this however my bike came with Schwalbe Lugano 23mm tyres.

I've had one visit from the fairy in 1500 miles. I too went out on Sunday and did 100 miles in the rain. No issues whatsoever and the tyres still look pristine.

I don't know if this is normal, but I pump my tyres up with my trackpump before EVERY ride to 110 PSI, I have no comfort issues so the harshnest doesn't affect me, but i'm convinced that it is helping keeping the fairy at bay. I'm not joking my tyre can lose between 5 and 10 psi just on one ride and I know people who only pump their tyres up once a month, so it would be no surprise if they are getting pinch punctures.

Don't get me wrong, when the time comes I will probably buy some premium tyres, but only for rolling capabilities and not on their puncture protection.

 

[Piemaster]

I've got a Durano+ on the rear.

Only around 50 miles so far but and I got it on without tyre levers

 

[nmcgann]

Michelin Krylion for summer training.
Schwalbe Stelvio+ or Durano+ for winter training.
Bontrager Race X Lite are pretty good for winter training too (cheaper than the Schwalbes, but slower).
Michelin Pro Race 3 for racing.

 

[xxmimixx]

im going to be brave and ask what may be a very stupid question

how do you know when the tyres need changing??

 

[accountantpete]

im going to be brave and ask what may be a very stupid question

how do you know when the tyres need changing??

It depends on the make but usually tyres have several skins on top of a rough carcass. So you will find that the top layer wears out in patches leaving the underneath layer or possibly the carcass visible - this is the time to change the tyre.

However you can also get cuts to the tyre - some just go through the top layer and are also very small so the tyre is still ok. Cuts that go right through are a bit iffy and you might think about changing the tyre.

 

[xxmimixx]

Thank you Pete

 

[zacklaws]

I'm not joking my tyre can lose between 5 and 10 psi just on one ride and I know people who only pump their tyres up once a month, so it would be no surprise if they are getting pinch punctures.

I pump up my tyres every ride and lose about 5lbs psi per day, but untill Svendo gave me a tip it could be up to 20lbs psi or more per day depending on my innertube.

A lot of presta valves screw in and this is a source of leakage. By applying threadlock and screwing the valve in tight with pliers it stops all leakage, plus it prevents the valve unscrewing inadvertantly when you remove the valve cap if it sticks to it.

What I do now is after pumping my tyres up, I turn the valve to the 12 o'clock position and I have a small container of water with a drop of washing up liquid in and imerse the valve into it, any leakage through the valve itself or where the valve screws in can be spotted by seeing a stream of microscopic bubbles which you do not see if you just use saliva.