wheels/bearings and trueing

[Heigue'r]

Good afternoon all, have been out for a few rides over the last week and noticed a creaking sound coming from the rear of the bike somewhere (giant defy 1 2014), i checked the threads on here and noticed people were having something similar and it was proving to be loose screws/bolts on the rear derailer, checked mine and they were tight so today I had a chance to look over a few things
Well i discoverd the creaking noise is coming from inside the rear hub and is consistant with 1 revolution of the rear wheel, does not sound good, more like a metal on metal grinding so i dont think thats too good.
Also and probably as a cause or result of the above, my rear wheel has changed shape from being circulal to slightly eliptical, very very slightly but if i hold the saddle so the rear wheel is just off the ground and spin the cranks to get the rear wheel up to good speed, its like placing your hand on a washing machine thats overloaded and on the highest spin cycle...lol, now i allways thought that trueing a wheel would be to get rid of a slight buckle/side to side movement of which there is also a couple of mm on the rear wheel
Given that these are the stock wheels and have a definite grinding bearing and out of true circular wise and side to side, is it worth having them sorted or should i just plump for a set of zondas?
Thanks
Vinny

 

[bpsmith]

My standard Defy 1 wheels were out of tru from day 1. Managed to get them set up nicely, for a newbie anyway, but soon got the Zonda's and never looked back. If you're even considering a wheelset change, then I would say go for it now. You won't be disappointed!

 

[RebornBumbler]

The bearings and/or freehub might well just need a clean and grease, or adjustment.

The 'elliptical shape' and the 'side to side movement' are (almost certainly) both simple adjustments that any local shop should be able to undertake quickly and quite cheaply.

If you fancy doing it yourself, check out http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/mickles-tip-of-the-season-to-be-jolly-wheel-truing.91352/ or http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html (particularly "Tensioning and truing")

Things might be slightly trickier with rear Zondas

 

[bpsmith]

Things might be slightly trickier with rear Zondas

Indeed a possibility, but mine have been perfect for 400 miles now. It's all in how they are built to start with.

 

[Heigue'r]

Have read the mickle article and will definitely give it a go myself, without wanting to start another thread, when i replace the cassete, im thinking ultegra, do i have to swap the chain? Looking at eithe 12 30 or 11 28 config, original kmc 10 chain
Thanks

 

[RebornBumbler]

Unless it's a very recent chain, yes.
It's generally a good idea to match a new cassette with a new chain. Stick wth KMC, too

 

[Heigue'r]

Thanks, chain is 1month old, probably 300-350 miles done on it, still very shiny