Which road bike?

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I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
I run 35mm tyres. Yours are Zaffiros(?) which should be just right for fast road riding. Just looking at the 2020 version of your bike and think maybe just get some stubby bar ends to help you get lower for a more aero posture and to give alternative positions during longer rides. Remember, it's not about the bike.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
Try and borrow friends' bikes for test rides. All the ergo fit charts in the world won't tell you which bike you'll find fun to ride. I borrowed a £650 Cinelli from a friend's son and loved it so much after two miles that a bought the same model the next day.
 
OP
OP
D

drkash

Active Member
Thanks for the comments and advice. I will have a think about whether to just stick with my Whyte hybrid alone or buy a road bike also. I've had a look at the local market and these are the current ones I've liked so far, which would be recommended has a better bang for their buck? Will any of these give better riding / speed than my current Whyte shoreditch?
Thanks!

1. Specialized Allez Sport Road Bike
2018
9 speed
£250
Specialized Allez Sport Road Bike.jpg


2. Cannondale Synapse
2016/2017
9 speed
£300
Canondale.jpg


3. Specialized Allez Road Bike
?2015
£350
Shimano 105 groupset
86.jpg


4. Cannondale CAAD10
2015
£400
Shimano 105 groupset
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5. Scott Speedster 40 Road Bike
2022
£400
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6. Cannondale synapse carbon 105
2018
£400-500
22 speed
Shimano 105 groupset
86.jpg
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
It's worth a 'wanted' post on the Yorkshire Cycling Sales Facebook group - height, size, spec, budget. There's a few on there.

There's surprisingly little in a 56cm/Large size locally, but some thoughts are:

Boardman carbon, but 18-speed Sora for £300 start price in Castleford: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314591957114
Scott CR1 carbon, 20-speed Tiagra for £300 start price in Sheffield: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394621611232
Boardman carbon, 20-speed Tiagra for £270 start price in Bradford: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boardman-Team-Carbon-Road-Bike-Large-very-good-condition-/374699232724 Budget for some new bar tape with that one.

I ride a 54cm normally and don't have any modern road bikes for sale, just a 56cm Peugeot for £75. But that's from 1990 so not relevant. Everything else has been sold.

Most important is that it fits you, as suggested above.
 
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DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
@drkash - if those above I'd suggest no. 6 first, no. 4 second. However, the carbon Synapse is a level above the rest, with the CAAD10 also looking decent. You probably want to check whether they have a compact (50-34) / semi-compact (52/36) crankset.

If they fit you, any would be OK for the event however. I don't know if you're using clipless pedals but they will help both in terms of speed and reducing injury potential over distance.

For any second-hand bike you want to make sure everything works smoothly, the seatpost isn't stuck, the brakes / gears / crankset works, check the chain, etc. Otherwise you could be having to budget for additional parts and work.
 
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Jon in Sweden

Active Member
Maybe I'm wrong but I can't imagine that a 'road' bike will be appreciably, if anything, quicker than what you have.

It's the motor that really matters, and that will be the same in both instances.

The 'engine' is of course incredibly important, but the bike makes a massive difference.

I've got 4 road/gravel bikes that I used regularly, and all other things being equal (route, tyres etc), there is about a 10% difference in speed between the fastest (Canyon Endurace) and the slowest (Mercian Audax, 531 frame). When I got the Endurace, I couldn't believe how much faster it was than my previous main road bike (Orbea Vector Drop).

So the step up from a hybrid to a road bike will be huge.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
defo the red synapse carbon
 

Shortandcrisp

Über Member
In your case, if that red carbon synapse is sound I’d snap it up in an instant; perfect for someone moving from a hybrid to a road bike. The Caad10 is a great bike, but probably not ideal for someone wanting to cycle 160km with limited experience on a road bike.
 

DogmaStu

Senior Member
Ollix!

It's ALL about the engine.

I used a rigid hybrid for many years. Did forum rides, sportives, etc and never found myself lacking. Would still be using it now if the frame hadn't cracked.

Still 'smash' many other riders on 'performance' bikes when riding my current commuter bike with loaded panniers and mudguards.

Just returned from Spain and after one particularly hilly ride I encountered a young Spanish racing snake. I had ridden about 80 miles in mountainous terrain (altitudes over 4000ft) and he chatted with me about chain ganging back into Girona because of an unfavorable headwind. We set off with him on a skeletal road bike and me on a sub-optimal gravel bike with twiddly gearing. After 10 miles we hit a bit of a climb and I suddenly looked round to find him dropped off the back and disappearing fast. I did the final 15 miles alone :laugh:. Probably 25yrs his senior but still had the legs to ride away from him despite the miles, climbing and bike choices.

What is your current bike? I would suggest not changing bikes at this stage because you risk making things worse. There are many minor changes that can be made to optimise your current set up before you think about changing bikes.

I'm going to disagree with you now - while the engine is the most important, obviously, the bike can and does make a difference.

Forget about you vs a weaker engine since that is a disingenuous way to try and prove a point on this subject and focus purely upon you vs you.

On a tarmac road, you would be faster on a 7kg aero racing bike than on your hybrid or commuter pannier bike. This isn't marketing BS, it's fact.

You doing a constant 200watts would be faster on an 8kg road bike with 28mm tyres than a 9.5kg 29er MTB with 48mm tyres on tarmac. You know this to be true so to say that it is "ALL about the engine" makes no sense. The bike will have a very significant effect upon how fast you ride.

At 54 I regularly beat cyclists younger than me too but faced with a cyclist my equal in watts/kg, power and fitness etc then the bike that saves the most watts on a given route is going to have a significant impact upon the results of a race.

I've performed countless tests using Strava segments on my various bikes. Most recently I tried to get a few road KOM's on my new gravel bike; I got one but couldn't get another couple I was aiming for. When I switched to my Summer road bike, I got them. On a closer scale, I have done the same with all 3 of my road bikes pitting them against each other on the same segments. I've done free-wheeling tests with friends downhill. Brake tests. You name it, we've done all the GCN+ stuff for fun ourselves. It isn't marketing BS...aero and lightweight tech does make a difference.

Saving watts is the main goal of higher end road bikes. It's true, however, that those potential savings in energy come at an increasingly higher price as you go up the tiers to the point that they are very expensive for very marginal gains.

We choose how much we are prepared to invest to get those gains and if we find we are quite happy riding our hybrids and commuter bikes and still able to overtake weaker engines on more expensive bikes, great! All that means it our engines are that much stronger than theirs.

But make no mistake, we are faster on bikes that need fewer watts to cut through the air or haul up an incline.

To the OP, find a bike like the Trek shown above, strip it down, clean it up, get it running smoothly and it'll be fine for your ride. Don't push yourself, enjoy it, take in lots of fluids, food.
 

rivers

How far can I go?
Location
Bristol
I'm going to disagree with you now - while the engine is the most important, obviously, the bike can and does make a difference.

Forget about you vs a weaker engine since that is a disingenuous way to try and prove a point on this subject and focus purely upon you vs you.

On a tarmac road, you would be faster on a 7kg aero racing bike than on your hybrid or commuter pannier bike. This isn't marketing BS, it's fact.

You doing a constant 200watts would be faster on an 8kg road bike with 28mm tyres than a 9.5kg 29er MTB with 48mm tyres on tarmac. You know this to be true so to say that it is "ALL about the engine" makes no sense. The bike will have a very significant effect upon how fast you ride.

At 54 I regularly beat cyclists younger than me too but faced with a cyclist my equal in watts/kg, power and fitness etc then the bike that saves the most watts on a given route is going to have a significant impact upon the results of a race.

I've performed countless tests using Strava segments on my various bikes. Most recently I tried to get a few road KOM's on my new gravel bike; I got one but couldn't get another couple I was aiming for. When I switched to my Summer road bike, I got them. On a closer scale, I have done the same with all 3 of my road bikes pitting them against each other on the same segments. I've done free-wheeling tests with friends downhill. Brake tests. You name it, we've done all the GCN+ stuff for fun ourselves. It isn't marketing BS...aero and lightweight tech does make a difference.

Saving watts is the main goal of higher end road bikes. It's true, however, that those potential savings in energy come at an increasingly higher price as you go up the tiers to the point that they are very expensive for very marginal gains.

We choose how much we are prepared to invest to get those gains and if we find we are quite happy riding our hybrids and commuter bikes and still able to overtake weaker engines on more expensive bikes, great! All that means it our engines are that much stronger than theirs.

But make no mistake, we are faster on bikes that need fewer watts to cut through the air or haul up an incline.

To the OP, find a bike like the Trek shown above, strip it down, clean it up, get it running smoothly and it'll be fine for your ride. Don't push yourself, enjoy it, take in lots of fluids, food.

What he said
I'm significantly faster over my 12 mile commute on my road bike with 25mm slick tyres (and currently my race wheels as my every day wheels need some love) than my gravel bike with 40mm knobblies, or even 32mm slicks. Its about 12 minutes faster over the 40mm knobblies and 6 or so vs the 32mm slicks. Similar efforts based on HR TSS, though sometimes I'm faster with less effort on my road bike. The only time my road bike has been a similar time to my gravel bike was when I had 25mph head winds the entire way into work.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
To the OP, find a bike like the Trek shown above, strip it down, clean it up, get it running smoothly and it'll be fine for your ride. Don't push yourself, enjoy it, take in lots of fluids, food.
This.
You can have just much fun and speed on an older tidied up bike as you can on a more expensive carbon racer.
I bought an old 2007 Trek here from amongst a pile of abandoned bikes for little money. I put new rims on it and derailleurs, saddle

IMG_0284.PNG
and tyres. Just upgraded to 9 speed. It's a dream to ride although it's covered in scratches.
You'll learn so much about bikes in the process.
 
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