Help! Does anyone know why my rear wheel keeps "twisting" while out riding? It seems like one side keeps slipping in the drop outs and causing the tyre on the opposite side to rub against the frame. If you need more photos of anything let me know. It has been doing it since I got the bike earlier this year, but it did have too short a chain on it (I used Park Tool's guide on measuring the chain and fitting the wheel to correct this), But even though the wheel now sits in the drop outs rather than half in half out, and I have torqued the nuts to 25nm, it still happens. So i have tightened the nuts to the point where it feels like something will break, but it is still happening. Any ideas?
Why does my rear wheel keep doing this?
- Thread starter Adamh2009
- Start date
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
What sort of bike? What sort of drop-outs? Vertical dropouts. Nutted axles - right.
Completely useless photos - well for me, anyway - how about side view close up of wheel axle/nut in dropouts (from left side)?
Completely useless photos - well for me, anyway - how about side view close up of wheel axle/nut in dropouts (from left side)?
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Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
Fixed wheel/single speed on old style dropouts? Track ends? Used to happen a lot until vertical drop-outs became the norm....
Spiderweb
Not So Special One
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Several years ago I fitted some SKS long mudguards to my Orbit Thompson, as soon as I started riding the bike the wheel rubbed heavily against the rear mudguard, I adjusted the mudguard, checked that the wheel was correctly centered and positioned in the drop outs and the QR skewers were really really tight, I spun the wheel while the bike was clamped in the work stand and all was running freely and fine. As soon as I got on the bike the rubbing started again?!
I took the bike to the LBS and they found the rear wheel axle was completely broken, i don’t t know how long I’d been riding the bike like this but it was only the addition of close fitting mudguards that made me aware of the issue.
So just a thought and probably unlikely but it might be worth checking the axle?
I took the bike to the LBS and they found the rear wheel axle was completely broken, i don’t t know how long I’d been riding the bike like this but it was only the addition of close fitting mudguards that made me aware of the issue.
So just a thought and probably unlikely but it might be worth checking the axle?
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
As above your images aren't telling us anything, don't move the wheel but take an image from both sides of the axle showing the nut or QR, try to be as square on as possible.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Yes, I have had this, just the once. It was a broken rear axle.
If you really tighten the QR, then this is disguised until a really hard hill, when the tyre whacks against the chainstay and wheel stops pretty quickly
"I need to service the hub." Left side of axle comes out without having to unscrew anything (and away bounce a few of the bearings).
Smokin Joe
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
Chrome dropouts can be a right pain for that.
Is it a single speed with horizontal drop outs?
Check the chain tension. Chain rings are never perfect circles and if too tight might be causing the wheel to be pulled forward. After tightening the wheel nuts, rotate the cranks thru 360 degrees and make sure there is no tight spot. Chain should be moveable up/down about an inch minimum. If there is a tight spot, undo the nuts at that point relax the tension, then retighten and then check again.
Good luck
Check the chain tension. Chain rings are never perfect circles and if too tight might be causing the wheel to be pulled forward. After tightening the wheel nuts, rotate the cranks thru 360 degrees and make sure there is no tight spot. Chain should be moveable up/down about an inch minimum. If there is a tight spot, undo the nuts at that point relax the tension, then retighten and then check again.
Good luck
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Maybe 3sp SA if same bike as avatar! But different tyres.
What, when tightening, makes the OP 'feel like something will break', I wonder?
25 Nm seems rather low to me for a nutted axle. Can't find a spec other than 'tight enough' (ETA: Shimano = 29.4~44.1Nm). Likely these nuts are just not tight enough, and the OP is allowing a torque wrench @ 25 Nm to limit 'getting it properly tight'.
What, when tightening, makes the OP 'feel like something will break', I wonder?
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Yes it's a 3sp sa. And it's the lock washer that feels like it will crush and break if I go any further. Like in the photo attached. I will try between those values thanks. If anyone has more ideas, please share them!
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Yes, I have had this, just the once. It was a broken rear axle.
If you really tighten the QR, then this is disguised until a really hard hill, when the tyre whacks against the chainstay and wheel stops pretty quickly
"I need to service the hub." Left side of axle comes out without having to unscrew anything (and away bounce a few of the bearings).
Completely OT.
I need to have a look at the missus rear wheel, I think she has a bent axle. The wheel feels like it runs true and looks pretty true. But there is a definite wobble in the cassette, almost as if the free wheel isn't on straight. I'm amazed it says in gear. My first throught was a bent axle, she's not mechanically sympathetic over bumps but the wheel runs too true for this.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
OT
Bent or broken. If broken, cassette wobble will be more pronounced if you remove the wheel and spin it in your hands.
If, when disassembled, axle is in one piece, remove all the threaded bits/nuts/cones and roll on flat table/floor to determine whether bent.
Bent or broken. If broken, cassette wobble will be more pronounced if you remove the wheel and spin it in your hands.
If, when disassembled, axle is in one piece, remove all the threaded bits/nuts/cones and roll on flat table/floor to determine whether bent.
"Don't move the wheel but take an image from both sides of the axle showing the nuts; try to be as square on as possible."
@Phaeton
Are these any good?
Attachments
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Can't see the lock washer you're concerned about breaking in those photos (which are excellent btw).
(#23 in this parts diagram: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/309/PART LIST - AW SRF3.pdf)
Assume that your tyre is 'fouling' on the left chainstay and the axle is shifting on the right dropout.
Have you tried removing the rack, temporarily, to see if the wheel axle is more secure without the rack stays adversely affecting the 'grip' of the axle nut? I would consider inserting a 'lock washer' in between the rack stay and the dropout on the right (drive) side - like the one helping secure the mudguard stay, only bigger. We can see plenty of spare axle in the guide nut.
(#23 in this parts diagram: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/309/PART LIST - AW SRF3.pdf)
Assume that your tyre is 'fouling' on the left chainstay and the axle is shifting on the right dropout.
Have you tried removing the rack, temporarily, to see if the wheel axle is more secure without the rack stays adversely affecting the 'grip' of the axle nut? I would consider inserting a 'lock washer' in between the rack stay and the dropout on the right (drive) side - like the one helping secure the mudguard stay, only bigger. We can see plenty of spare axle in the guide nut.
