Why use internal gear hub

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rogerzilla

Legendary Member
Gears in the BB have to cope with full pedalling torque, which is similar to that from a large petrol engine. They need to be bigger and heavier than they do at the rear hub.
 
Small wheel folders tend to have short chainstays.
This makes the angle of the chain in first and top gear a lot more extreme once you go to a multi sprocket cassette.
Therefore a bigger risk of it jumping of the chainring.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
Standard snap ring hub can only take up to 3 external cogs. Which can be easily modded with Unibody cog set and compatible to most stock parts.

View attachment 532766
X3 Unibody cog set

Anything over 3 will require some extensive modifications, such as longer tensioner arms, clamp or filing the frame end, longer custom free hub body (wheelset) or evern a dedicated chain puser, DR spring set.

View attachment 532767
Custom longer free hub body for 4 cogs

This modification that uses 7 speed sprocket cassette (11-28t) is probably pushing the limit. You can tell the chain pusher and jocky wheels are all new design to allow longer and smooth travel between sprockets.


Linear chain push 7 speed 28T external cogs system


I will think Duo chainring (33/54T) with 4 speed external cogs (11-14-17-23T) might be a best combination to replace BWR 6 speed (302%). It will save quite a few gram and a wider gear range of 345%.

View attachment 532770
33/54T Duo-chainring

I added a Stronglight 50:36 standard square-taper cheapo chain set to my S6L and it works a treat :-)
 
I am a huge fan of hub geared bikes. I have 2 x Rohloff geared Thorn bikes, a Brompton and a Nexus hub geared belt drive bike. The latter being almost exclusively used for commuting 20 miles per day to work in all weathers for over 10 years prior to my retirement in 2017. I've never had a single problem with any of my hub gears.

I think the negative often expressed about hub gears being heavier in weight is more often a spurious argument, as with most hub gear set ups there is only one chain ring, no front or rear derailleur and no cassette. Also, the simplicity of hub gears makes it a joy to not have the regular hassle of having to re-index derailleur gears as well as having the advantage of longer chain life.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
I am a huge fan of hub geared bikes. I have 2 x Rohloff geared Thorn bikes, a Brompton and a Nexus hub geared belt drive bike. The latter being almost exclusively used for commuting 20 miles per day to work in all weathers for over 10 years prior to my retirement in 2017. I've never had a single problem with any of my hub gears.

I think the negative often expressed about hub gears being heavier in weight is more often a spurious argument, as with most hub gear set ups there is only one chain ring, no front or rear derailleur and no cassette. Also, the simplicity of hub gears makes it a joy to not have the regular hassle of having to re-index derailleur gears as well as having the advantage of longer chain life.
They are slightly less efficient than a clean well lubed and maintained derailleur system but better than the gunked up rusty set up often found on commuter bikes.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
All I ride is IGH bikes...I can’t see ever going back to derailleurs.
Not even ones this sexy,

533672
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
A 3-speed Sturmey-Archer (oiled as opposed to greased) is just about identical to a derailleur system for efficiency, taking into account the loss from the jockey wheels and sprung chain tensioner of a derailleur. It's probably MORE efficient in the middle gear (direct drive). When you go to more than 3 speeds, hub gears start to become less efficient, especially when the drive goes through more than one epicyclic (each of which adds a minimum 3% loss).

SRAM used to make a 7-speed with no cascading of the drive but it had many other problems instead.
 

berlinonaut

Veteran
Location
Berlin Germany
As this thread is about folders and the Brompton in particular: Hub width has been mentioned already, the weight has not. Te 2-speed saves massively weight over a 3-speed on a Brompton - anyone who carries his bike regularly will be thankful for that. In general I do prefer hub gears and within them the Rohloff is clearly my favorite (whereas with many others I dislike the losses in the hub, the spacing of the gears, the limited range, the weight-power-ratio or something else). Which led to me having a bunch of bikes with the Rohloff and some with other hub gears but barely bikes with dreailleurs apart from the 2-speed Brommi. I recently akquired a deralleur bike and must say I am impressed - as it is basically new there are no issues and it clearly feels more efficient than the Rohloff, let alone any other geared hub.
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
I use 5-20 synthetic oil in my two 3 speed SA hubs and the only downside is seeping oil. I've ridden my surly steamroller with one in -18 C temps and there were no problems. One of the drawbacks to small wheels is the difficulty of getting higher gear ratios and the SA hubs with high 33% higher than the direct drive gear is a good way to do that. I also have a 3 sprocket rear wheel with 11-14-17 sprockets, courtesy of Bike Gang which also works very well although it doesn't have the high gear the SA hub has. It is lighter, though and does not seep oil. Like Fab Foodie I have 2 chainrings, 58 and 38 tooth, so I have a granny gear option for 12% grades although I could use a sub 30 gear inch setup at times. One of the things I enjoy about my Brompton is tinkering with and trying out various options. It really is a fun machine.
 
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