Why won't my tyres seat?

[chriswoody]

As I mentioned in my first unhelpful post, I agree with you that the problem is the air is escaping from the base of the valve. Looking at your photo, where you have marked the base of the valve with the blue mark, could this be what you're looking for to block up the hole there?

It's a DT Swiss Asymetric rim valve adapter, designed to plug up the hole marked in blue on your photo.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/fsa-asymmetric-rim-valve-adaptor/rp-prod201305

Used in combination with the valves you have, it should make everything airtight with the rims you have.

 

[HLaB]

I've muc off valves on my gravel bike and find that their lock nut has to be quite tight and tightening the valve core can cause them to come loose again.

PS what sealant are you using? My mate at the weekend said he had no luck with Muc off sealant, switched to Stans and it was an instant seal.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Just to be clear ... bear with me I'm a bit thick. You can attach the hose using the top arrowed thread, but it not on to the bottom (with the core removed obvs)

Is that right?

 

[geocycle]

Could it be the tyres? I went through your pain and then tried fitting them with a tube for a couple of days. I then carefully removed the tube from one side, reinflated with the jo blow booster and worked first time.

 

[JhnBssll]

The o-ring that fits outside the rim is NOT a seal. It just allows you to tighten the valve nut without damaging the outer rim surface. All of the sealing happens at the other end of the valve stem where it meets the rim tape. Air from the tyre should not be able to get to this outer o-ring; if it can, it will also be coming out of the spoke holes...

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Just to be clear ... bear with me I'm a bit thick. You can attach the hose using the top arrowed thread, but it not on to the bottom (with the core removed obvs)
View attachment 627042
Is that right?

We need to know as it seems weird it clamps the top bit as per your diagram

 

[Alex321]

Just to be clear ... bear with me I'm a bit thick. You can attach the hose using the top arrowed thread, but it not on to the bottom (with the core removed obvs)
View attachment 627042
Is that right?

That seems to be the case for me with the Muc-off valves, and a regular track pump. The opening for the valve just doesn't seem to want to go over that stem far enough to clamp when the lever is clicked.

I can usually persuade it to do so eventually, but it takes a lot of fiddling, and never seems quite secure.

 

[boydj]

Sounds

As I mentioned in my first unhelpful post, I agree with you that the problem is the air is escaping from the base of the valve. Looking at your photo, where you have marked the base of the valve with the blue mark, could this be what you're looking for to block up the hole there?
View attachment 627034
It's a DT Swiss Asymetric rim valve adapter, designed to plug up the hole marked in blue on your photo.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/fsa-asymmetric-rim-valve-adaptor/rp-prod201305

Used in combination with the valves you have, it should make everything airtight with the rims you have.

This is the solution to your problem. You need a correctly-shaped plug for the valve to go through inside the rim.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Just to be clear ... bear with me I'm a bit thick. You can attach the hose using the top arrowed thread, but it not on to the bottom (with the core removed obvs)
View attachment 627042
Is that right?

Yes, that's exactly what's happening.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

The o-ring that fits outside the rim is NOT a seal. It just allows you to tighten the valve nut without damaging the outer rim surface. All of the sealing happens at the other end of the valve stem where it meets the rim tape. Air from the tyre should not be able to get to this outer o-ring; if it can, it will also be coming out of the spoke holes...

That's what I thought too, which is why I'm more convinced that the cause is just me having done a crappy taping job (expected as it was my first try )

In theory, if the sealing is done correctly, there shouldn't be air coming out from the valve hole opening.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Sounds


This is the solution to your problem. You need a correctly-shaped plug for the valve to go through inside the rim.

I tried all the 3 plugs provided in the muc-off valves package (see photo) but nothing helped.

I've also tried a bodge job that I read on another forum: someone suggested to put a piece of inner tube between valve and valve hole. So off I went to cut a small square of inner tube, cut a small hole, passed the valve through it, and passed the valve through the valve hole, as usual. Nothing still.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Anyways, I think I mentioned I'm going to start everything from scratch.

I removed the muc-off tape. Tonight I'm going to re-clean the rims, this time not using wd-40 but a more suitable product. Then, as I've seen suggested in many youtube videos, I'm going to leave the rims until they're absolutely 100% dry. Easy enough since my tubeless rim tape (stans this time) will be delivered on Friday. Then tape, and then the dt swiss tubeless valves that have got that wee rubber insert for asymmetric rims.

If it doesn't work, the next thing you'll see is a video of me smashing and burning a set of wheels (I'm very short-tempered). So, stay tuned

 

[si_c]

Anyways, I think I mentioned I'm going to start everything from scratch.

I removed the muc-off tape. Tonight I'm going to re-clean the rims, this time not using wd-40 but a more suitable product. Then, as I've seen suggested in many youtube videos, I'm going to leave the rims until they're absolutely 100% dry. Easy enough since my tubeless rim tape (stans this time) will be delivered on Friday. Then tape, and then the dt swiss tubeless valves that have got that wee rubber insert for asymmetric rims.

If it doesn't work, the next thing you'll see is a video of me smashing and burning a set of wheels (I'm very short-tempered). So, stay tuned

Use soap and water and then use some rubbing alcohol to clean any residue off (disc brake cleaner will suffice if you don't have a bottle of RA for cleaning).

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Use soap and water and then use some rubbing alcohol to clean any residue off (disc brake cleaner will suffice if you don't have a bottle of RA for cleaning).

Cheers, yeah I've read about disc brake cleaner being a good substitute of alcohol.

 

[chriswoody]

The o-ring that fits outside the rim is NOT a seal. It just allows you to tighten the valve nut without damaging the outer rim surface. All of the sealing happens at the other end of the valve stem where it meets the rim tape. Air from the tyre should not be able to get to this outer o-ring; if it can, it will also be coming out of the spoke holes...

Whilst the grommit at the end of the valve stem certainly does most of the sealing, surely the O-ring also plays it's part in sealing? Air can't escape from the spoke holes because there is tape covering them, with the valve though, the tape will have been punctured to let the valve stem through. I'm genuinely curious on this point and not seeking to be argumentative.

Certainly on my bike, there is a small blob of sealant around the O-ring, evidence that some air has escaped this way in the past, the base of the spokes, however, bear no such witness marks.

I've just noticed an early post where the OP mentions he has purchased some DT Swiss Assymetric valves, I suspect that this will indeed solve the problem and I hope it does for the OP's sake.