Wibble

[grldtnr]

Surely the obvious solution is that it is time for a new bike?

Not everyone has room or money for another bike, I firmly believe in the notion of N~+1, multiple by how stuffed the bike shed, and bank balance.....

 

[Ian H]

Can you adjust the stays so the the clearance at the back of the mudguard is the same or less than the clearance at the brake bridge?

 

[rivers]

Will a set of mudguards for slightly wider tyres fit?

 

[I like Skol]

Fit them properly and they won't rub.
I've been running the same set of SKS guards over 10 yrs on two bikes and they still stay where you put them (crashes and ham fisted bike shed interactions excepted). I also run them as close to the tyre as possible for aesthetic and toe-overlap reasons.

 

[Chislenko]

I have had some dried up sheep droppings in my front mudguard for the last three rides.

The tyre wears it away, I don't do anything.

It's only when it is first picked up and wet it makes a noise but I can live with it based on the knowledge that friction is more powerful than sheep sh-t😃

 

[Low Gear Guy]

Have you tried MTB mudguards which have a single bolt to secure them on place. In stock at SJS for 700 size wheels.

 

[Rooster1]

I struggle with 25s for clearance, though they are Marathon Plus with a tread. I am on stock Giant Defy Mudguards that disintegrate after a few hundred miles.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

I am on stock Giant Defy Mudguards that disintegrate after a few hundred miles.

Is that a design feature???
drops the whole mudguard plus mud off the wheel and away - problem cleared!!

and it reduces weight and drag at the same time

maybe someone should start a business selling mudguards that come in layers and you can drop the bottom layer off at the tough of a button!!

a bit like the F1 driver ripping a strip off their visor

I'm full of these brilliant ideas!

 

[I like Skol]

Have you tried MTB mudguards which have a single bolt to secure them on place. In stock at SJS for 700 size wheels. View attachment 614130

Great feature on that rear guard, dumping all the crud and water onto your front mech and bottom bracket......

 

[a.twiddler]

Smaller wheels? With luck the brakes will reach, otherwise it's new brakes, maybe cables too. Also there's tyres etc. And then, perhaps less choice in tyres available. Alternatively, the tried and tested coathanger wire.

 

[Moodyman]

Get your mudguards as close to the tyre as possible without them touching, and allowing for flexing during normal riding conditions. This minimises the gap and thus, the amount of mud that can climb up the tyres/mudguard.

You will still get fine grit and that will grind away after a few wheel rotations, but leaf mulch, mud and twigs will be minimised. Twigs are the real danger as a trapped one will send you over the bars. In Autumn lots of twigs hide under the leaves.

 

[Ian H]

Interestingly, steel guards, such as Gilles Berthoud's, seem to weigh no more than SKS chromoplastic ones, and are far more rigid.

 

[youngoldbloke]

I always carried a teaspoon - the perfect tool - to scrape out the crud when I rode a Ribble 'blue' winter bike with guards Despite being advertised as 'winter' or 'audax' bikes they had notoriously close clearance with anything bigger than 23mm tyres.

 

[Supersuperleeds]

There are two solutions available to you:

1) Remove the mudguards and throw them away;
2) If you insist you need mudguards, stop riding through mud and other sticky shoot.

 

[craigwend]

There are two solutions available to you:

1) Remove the mudguards and throw them away;
2) If you insist you need mudguards, stop riding through mud and other sticky shoot.

3) '- I ran 25s for a few years and it went away. It has only come back because I've returned to 28s' - answer = go back to 25 with mudguards...