Wobbly cassette

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Globalti

Legendary Member
The clicking action should be consistent as you tighten the lockring and tightening should just get steadily harder. If the ring is clicking gently then suddenly stopping, to the point where only one more click becomes possible, I would say there's still something wrong. There should be a steady ramping up of the force needed, not a sudden stop. This would indicate to me that you are taking up a lot of easy slack then hitting a limit and that's not the way it works. Another thing to check is that the cogs in the cassette should be held tightly from the moment the clicking starts; if they are still free to move right up to that last click, you are missing a spacer from the stack. Look at the back of the lockring - it should have a wavy washer around it; this is what compresses slowly and ramps up the tension in the locking system.

Scroll down to point 8 on this page to see how the top ring should look before you add the lockring: http://www.westcumbriaclarion.co.uk/Westcumbriaclarion15.php

(BTW the correct engineering term for tightening these lockrings and crank bolts is: "F**k-off tight")
 
OP
OP
lulubel

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Don't assume that because it's new, everything's as it should be. It does sound as if a spacer is missing. If you can't fix it, perhaps it's time to take it back to the shop. This should not be happening.

That would be quite tricky, seeing as it came from several different online stores, in pieces, and I built it myself :smile:
 

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
The clicking action should be consistent as you tighten the lockring and tightening should just get steadily harder. If the ring is clicking gently then suddenly stopping, to the point where only one more click becomes possible, I would say there's still something wrong. There should be a steady ramping up of the force needed, not a sudden stop. This would indicate to me that you are taking up a lot of easy slack then hitting a limit and that's not the way it works. Another thing to check is that the cogs in the cassette should be held tightly from the moment the clicking starts; if they are still free to move right up to that last click, you are missing a spacer from the stack. Look at the back of the lockring - it should have a wavy washer around it; this is what compresses slowly and ramps up the tension in the locking system.

Scroll down to point 8 on this page to see how the top ring should look before you add the lockring: http://www.westcumbriaclarion.co.uk/Westcumbriaclarion15.php

(BTW the correct engineering term for tightening these lockrings and crank bolts is: "F**k-off tight")

I thought the correct term was ba**ard tight lol.

Sent from my LT15i using Tapatalk 2
 

byegad

Legendary Member
Location
NE England
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I think you mean Newtons :biggrin:

I guessed his spell chequer got to it.
 

Melonfish

Evil Genius in training.
Location
Warrington, UK
ducttape.jpeg


?? :biggrin:
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
I am just reviving the thread because the cassette on the bike I borrowed for my week in Scotland came loose twice in less than 200 miles of riding.

Cousin #1 (owner of the bike) was not available so cousin #2 (his brother) took a look at it with me. The cassette was filthy so we took it to bits and cleaned it. We checked the cassette spacer was in place - it was. We tightened the lockring and all seemed ok but the cassette came loose again after just a few miles of riding.

The wheels are Mavic Ksyrium Elites and it is a 10 speed Shimano cassette.

I have just been searching for info and read that the big Mavic spacer is needed to make a 9-speed Shimano cassette work properly, but a thin Shimano spacer (about 1.5 mm thick) is required as well for 10-speed cassettes because they are slightly narrower.

I am taking the bike back this evening so I will pass that information on to my cousins. There are lots of us still using 10 speed so I thought I would mention it here as well.
 
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