Wobbly saddle

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Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
Hi all
I got the seat post shown below with my new bike. All was well until I tried a different saddle. I could ride for up to 30 miles, but at some point the saddle would become loose (not enough to fall off, just to move a bit - offputting and uncomfortable). I'd tighten it up and it would happen again, anything from 5 to 30 miles later.

Am I just not doing it up tight enough? I've seen new versions of the seat post in a bike shop, and I am pretty sure that I have not lost a washer or other part when faffing with saddles.

It seems to come loose more readily with the saddle in a slightly tipped-forward position (I wanted to try it tipped forward a bit to see if it was more comfortable). This means that I do not seem to be able to get the full range of adjustment from it.

This particular design, unlike others I have seen in bike shops, has no 'teeth' between the post itself and the bottom of the two bits of metal that grip the rails on the saddle. Is this partly why it is difficult to do it up without it slipping.

And if I do end up replacing it - any recommendations as to the best type? One that stays done up with the amount of tightening a female can give it with a multi-tool, ideally! Not that it will need changing often, but I am still working on finding the best saddle/saddle position for comfort.

Thanks

Spinney
 

bottombracket

New Member
Hi Spinney,
I've used one of those posts before - no problem...
I think you might just need a bit more leverage/grunt on the bolt.

Borrow or buy some proper allen-keys - proper long ones will give you more leverage and allow you to tighten the bolt more effectively. I think that bolt will be 6mm.

I've seen sets of 6 for about a quid - not top quality but good enough for home use.

A multi-tool is cool for keeping in your saddlebag for roadside repairs.
 
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Spinney

Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
bottombracket said:
Hi Spinney,
I've used one of those posts before - no problem...
I think you might just need a bit more leverage/grunt on the bolt.

Borrow or buy some proper allen-keys - proper long ones will give you more leverage and allow you to tighten the bolt more effectively. I think that bolt will be 6mm.

I've seen sets of 6 for about a quid - not top quality but good enough for home use.

A multi-tool is cool for keeping in your saddlebag for roadside repairs.

Thanks BB
Buying a long allen key is obviously the cheapest first option!
 

redjedi

Über Member
Location
Brentford
My first thought was that you are not doing it up enough to start with. As BB says, get a long allen key so you can get some good leverage. You can always take it with you until you find the correct position.
 

Gerry Attrick

Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
I've used that design and had similar problems. You do have to tighten them quite tight, but just be aware of overstressing the bolt and clamp. There is a risk that it or they could fail suddenly. Not good.

If you can stretch to it, get a seat post with two bolt fixing. That makes adjusting the saddle angle simple, and no chance of it coming loose.
 

02GF74

Über Member
it is impossible to know who tight you are doing the bolt - it is pretty big, 6 mm? so can take a bit of torque -but if you overdo it, then it can snap as said.

ou can use loctite thread lock to stop the bolt from undoing.
 
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Spinney

Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
02GF74 said:
it is impossible to know who tight you are doing the bolt - it is pretty big, 6 mm? so can take a bit of torque -but if you overdo it, then it can snap as said.

ou can use loctite thread lock to stop the bolt from undoing.

I think unless I get a really long allen key I probably won't be able to overdo the the torque. Loctite isn't an option while I am still trying to sort out the best position for it.

Thanks for all the advice so far...
 

Gerry Attrick

Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
Loctite won't help. The problem is that the saddle clamp slides over the seat post. The idea seems to be that the wedge-shaped profile of the clamp is forced down and outwards of the seatpost when the bolt is tightened, the ramp effect is supposed to lock the two parts together. This is not entirely successful.
 
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Spinney

Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
Well, I've just been and bought a looooong allen key, so I will see how I get on with that first.

Cheers, chaps.

Spinney
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
I sometimes can't do up a bolt tight enough and so resort to asking Mr Summerdays to lend me his muscles - sometimes it's a case of knowing that you can't do quite as good a job as they can (rare I admit:biggrin:). The bolt under the seat seems to be one of those places for me.
 
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Spinney

Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
summerdays said:
I sometimes can't do up a bolt tight enough and so resort to asking Mr Summerdays to lend me his muscles - sometimes it's a case of knowing that you can't do quite as good a job as they can (rare I admit:biggrin:). The bolt under the seat seems to be one of those places for me.

Well, Mr Spinney did it up the last time and it still slipped, but he only had a little multi-tool allen key to do it with. I shouldn't need a man* with my new allen key!





*not for tightening saddles, anyway!
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
That's quite a soft sticky alloy and the bolt might gall a little when being tightened, so before you tighten the bolt put some grease on the threads and around where the head seats.
 
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