Wood veneers... conflicting info online so asking the cyclists

[MontyVeda]

As some are aware, I'm building a bass guitar out of an existing neck and a chopping board.

The head has been reshaped, plugged and re-drilled, and to cover the plugs, I'm going to put a veneer over it...

There's plenty of videos and guides online, but some say don't use PVA whilst others say it's fine.

I'm guessing it's a case of What are you veneering? and What are you veneering to? ...with dedicated veneer glues suited to large furniture items or artificial substrates. maybe???

Those saying the PVA isn't suitable claim that it responds to heat and moisture, but so does wood... and in an ambient environment such as a home, will there be that much variation in heat and moisture? Those saying that PVA is fine don't mention anything about heat and moisture, they just say it's an option for gluing down a veneer.

Someone mentioned contact spray adhesive but I don't want to use spray on such a small thing, and I'd like to have some time to position the veneer before the glue grabs it.

Any advice from our multiskilled cyclists?

Thanks

 

[slowmotion]

I put some veneer on a pair of loudspeakers that I had built. I used a veneer which came with a thin layer of iron-on hot melt adhesive on the back. You just place it in the right position, put a cloth over it, and run a hot iron over the cloth. It sticks really well and hasn't lifted in the last thirty years.

Just Google "iron-on veneer". E.g. https://www.veneersonline.co.uk/collections/iron-on-wood-veneer-sheets

 

[cosmicbike]

In 35 years of using regular, run of the mill PVA to glue multiple wood types together (and lets face it, veneer is only wood), I've never had a joint fail as a result of heat or moisture. Impact yes, normally from a great height at speed..

 

[raleighnut]

The hard bit will be making the 'Caul' to get pressure onto it, personally I'd follow the Stones advice

Spoiler

Paint it Black

 

[slowmotion]

I've never tried it, but it seems you can use an iron-on technique using PVA glue..........

https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/ironon.html

 

[newts]

Pva glue, thinly spread onto both surfaces. Paper between medium hot iron & veneer will work a treat. We used use this method for applying edging to kitchen worktops didn't take too much heat even through 1mm formica. 30 seconds should cook it.

 

[MontyVeda]

Thanks for the replies guys. Iron-on isn't really an option as the surface isn't completely flat... it curves up to meet the nut & fingerboard.

cold press is the only option i think (AKA, leave it clamped up over night).

Pretty much everything I've read says apply glue to the substrate only, not the veneer... which is just plain veneer, not backed with paper or anything.

 

[raleighnut]

Thanks for the replies guys. Iron-on isn't really an option as the surface isn't completely flat... it curves up to meet the nut & fingerboard.

cold press is the only option i think (AKA, leave it clamped up over night).

Pretty much everything I've read says apply glue to the substrate only, not the veneer... which is just plain veneer, not backed with paper or anything.

Yep generally you dampen the Veneer SLIGHTLY with a cloth, this also helps to remove any dust from the surface.

 

[Cycleops]

I think you make be tackling this the wrong way around. I'm no expert but shouldn't you have applied the veneer on the headstock before drilling the holes? Won't the veneer chip as you drill them out?
@woodbutchmaster might be the best person to answer this one I think.

 

[MontyVeda]

I think you make be tackling this the wrong way around. I'm no expert but shouldn't you have applied the veneer on the headstock before drilling the holes? Won't the veneer chip as you drill them out?
@woodbutchmaster might be the best person to answer this one I think.

taking out the holes won't be a problem. The veneer should be soundly bonded to the head, and it's only 1mm thick, if that. I'd use a craft knife rather than drill. Plus, if there is any chipping around the holes, it'll be concealed with a washer and nut.

 

[woodbutchmaster]

taking out the holes won't be a problem. The veneer should be soundly bonded to the head, and it's only 1mm thick, if that. I'd use a craft knife rather than drill. Plus, if there is any chipping around the holes, it'll be concealed with a washer and nut.

I have only just seen your post, for such a small area l think you will be fine with PVA adhesive . There are just two potential problems , the first is that where you have plugged the original holes the plugs are showing "end grain" and adhesive has a nasty habit of disappearing into the fibres and therefor loosing it adhesive qualities. It would be worth pre-sealing those small areas with pva , letting it dry completely and then lightly sanding with a fine grit paper to give the area a better "key" . The next bit is possibly going to be a touch tricky. Because the head has a curved profile you would be wise to try a dry run with your method of clamping the veneer in place. The veneer grain direction has a bearing on this , if the grain is running the same direction as the solid head it will be more difficult to get it to bend to the surface than it would be if it was running at a right angle. My guess is that you want it to run in the same direction as the solid ? If this is the case l would slightly dampen the surface to be glued and because pva is water based it shouldn't have a problem making a bond between the two surfaces.
Goodness me it seems complicated when written down but in practice l am pretty confident that you will be ok judging by the neat looking job you've done on plugging and re drilling the holes. My best advice is take your time until you are confident that you have everything you need at hand ( there's nothing worse than finding that an essential bit of gear is just out of reach when you have your hands full ) .

 

[MontyVeda]

I have only just seen your post, for such a small area l think you will be fine with PVA adhesive . There are just two potential problems , the first is that where you have plugged the original holes the plugs are showing "end grain" and adhesive has a nasty habit of disappearing into the fibres and therefor loosing it adhesive qualities. It would be worth pre-sealing those small areas with pva , letting it dry completely and then lightly sanding with a fine grit paper to give the area a better "key" . The next bit is possibly going to be a touch tricky. Because the head has a curved profile you would be wise to try a dry run with your method of clamping the veneer in place. The veneer grain direction has a bearing on this , if the grain is running the same direction as the solid head it will be more difficult to get it to bend to the surface than it would be if it was running at a right angle. My guess is that you want it to run in the same direction as the solid ? If this is the case l would slightly dampen the surface to be glued and because pva is water based it shouldn't have a problem making a bond between the two surfaces.
Goodness me it seems complicated when written down but in practice l am pretty confident that you will be ok judging by the neat looking job you've done on plugging and re drilling the holes. My best advice is take your time until you are confident that you have everything you need at hand ( there's nothing worse than finding that an essential bit of gear is just out of reach when you have your hands full ) .

Thanks for that. Very straight forward and informative

I've steam bent the veneer a little to accommodate the curved bit, although it could do with a little more

 

[woodbutchmaster]

Thanks for that. Very straight forward and informative

I've steam bent the veneer a little to accommodate the curved bit, although it could do with a little more

best of luck with the rest of your project, if you run into any problems regarding the veneer, please feel free to ask and l will be happy to help if l can.