Worn bits - I've had my fun

[I like Skol]

And the poor shopkeeper who spent his time assessing the faults and telling you what you needed to do doesn't get a penny for his time and trouble.... Nice?

 

[winjim]

And the poor shopkeeper who spent his time assessing the faults and telling you what you needed to do doesn't get a penny for his time and trouble.... Nice?

I am a little bit confused as to how the OP has all the tools, has experience replacing the parts, must have been aware that there was a problem with shifting, needed the LBS to tell them what the problems were, yet will also be checking themselves. Why go to the shop at all?

If the shop has taken the time to evaluate the bike, I would at least buy any parts from them, even if I fitted them myself to save on labour. I think I'd be embarrassed not to.

 

[weareHKR]

I would at least buy any parts from them, even if I fitted them myself to save on labour. I think I'd be embarrassed not to.

I wouldn't even bat an eyelid.... think of how many people say... ''ho... ok...when can you do it'' ... whilst rubbing hands!

 

[Ajax Bay]

And the poor shopkeeper who spent his time assessing the faults and telling you what you needed to do doesn't get a penny for his time and trouble.... Nice?

Skolly - do you think the OP got good advice? They might have taken time and trouble but, prima facie, the advice does seem low quality, with revenue generation seeming to have undue influence.
Having said that, I'd buy some of what's needed from the (my) LBS.

 

[Lovacott]

Worn chain rings usually go very shark toothed and you'll start to get chain suck. I'd be surprised on a road bike as it takes many many thousands of miles to wear out. MTB - I went through a £50 chain ring in 12 months. PS the teeth are often profiled, so don't take it that they are worn.

I knackered a my last crankset by letting the chain go beyond 1% worn (I didn't have a chain checker). The crankset had been on the bike for about 2000 miles.

I fitted a new chain but was getting chain suck so I swapped out the crankset and now all is good.

Now I'm checking my chain for wear every week.

 

[Blue Hills]

I knackered a my last crankset by letting the chain go beyond 1% worn (I didn't have a chain checker). The crankset had been on the bike for about 2000 miles.

I fitted a new chain but was getting chain suck so I swapped out the crankset and now all is good.

Now I'm checking my chain for wear every week.

How many rings on the crankset?
If more than one surely all of the rings wouldn't have been "knackered"?

 

[fossyant]

The inner ring on my MTB lasted 4 years, the outer only the last year. Why, I was riding the MTB loads more last year. Started to get chain suck which was the main indicator. The previous ring (changed December 18) had teeth that had worn 'thin' - one tooth had bent ! All the grit tends to wear the inner/outer surfaces faster than the teeth.

 

[Tom B]

Rea[r]d brake pad, easy, just slots in, I have a spare.

Singular?

 

[I like Skol]

Skolly - do you think the OP got good advice? They might have taken time and trouble but, prima facie, the advice does seem low quality, with revenue generation seeming to have undue influence.

Not sure how you came to that conclusion?

I haven't seen the bike, you haven't seen the bike, the shop mechanic has.
'Prima facie' the shop has apparently been presented with a 2 year old bike that has received minimal attention and is now presumably not running well, hence being sent to the shop? What is the shop supposed to do? Try to rejuvenate the existing bits and coax a bit more life out of them and then have a customer back in a few months after further neglect, grumbling that the bike isn't running well again despite the 'repairs', or return the bike to almost 'as new' so the owner can ride it into the ground again over another 2 years before problems return?

The shop is apparently damned if he does and damned if he doesn't. It is a simple fact of life, if you either cannot or are not prepared to maintain and fix your own stuff then you have to pay someone else to do it, and they have to charge enough to make a living from it.

 

[T4tomo]

Rear gearing - jockey wheels are fine, the Mech does swivel and move OK but it is very dirty. When I try and shift from smallest cog to anything bigger from the brifter it is not functioning - it pulls and clicks. With the mech being stiff perhaps the cable has been compromised. I need to take it apart for a closer look. I also see no reason to replace the mech. I do not like the tiagra shifters on these bikes, they are really hard to work on. I also have the nasty hydaulic converter on the handlebars (see https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/defy-advanced-3-2018)

It could well be a cable problem.
1) disconnect the rear gear cable from the mech 2) try moving the cable from the rear end, if it moves freely fine, if it feel stiff, replace it. 3) then try shifting. if the lever feels free and fine and is clicking all is probably well but your mech needs looking at.

Tiagra shifters are no better worse to "work on" than 105 or Ultegra and set up properly will shift just a smoothly. this issue is likely to be elsewhere

 

[winjim]

Skolly - do you think the OP got good advice? They might have taken time and trouble but, prima facie, the advice does seem low quality, with revenue generation seeming to have undue influence.
Having said that, I'd buy some of what's needed from the (my) LBS.

How do you figure? OP has agreed that all those parts need work. Fair enough they clean up the existing parts themselves and get it running but for a mechanic it's surely easier cheaper to replace. Taking the seized mech as an example, I would happily strip and rebuild it myself, I enjoy fiddling with parts, but it would take me an entire evening and about half a bottle of wine so maybe £100 or more in workshop time. A Tiagra mech is what, thirty or forty quid and would take maybe twenty minutes to half an hour for a mechanic to fit and set up? It's just not worth it to ask them to strip it down. For a high end groupset sure, but not a low to mid range like Tiagra.

I'm still not sure whether OP has the competence to assess the bike and carry out the work, and if they do, why they took it to the shop at all.

 

[Ajax Bay]

'Prima facie' the shop has apparently been presented with a 2 year old bike that has received minimal attention and is now presumably not running well, hence being sent to the shop?

Perhaps ill-advisedly, I was basing my judgement on the assertions of the OP: @Rooster1: "I take great care of my bikes. I don't ride and throw in the garage." Maybe @Darius_Jedburgh 's jibe struck the OP's guilty nerve.
The OP doesn't seem to consider much of the LBS's advice valid, and a fair few on here seem to agree.

I'm still not sure whether OP has the competence to assess the bike and carry out the work, and if they do, why they took it to the shop at all.

Since they have in the past "replaced all these bits" yet take the bike in then I too wonder that. As I said, I would buy some of what's needed from the LBS, depending on the basis of them looking over the bike. Asking what might be wrong and how much it'd cost to put right is normal practice for equipment (not just bikes) maintenance and repair etc. Then it's up to the customer to decide. But it pays to have a good relationship with your LBS: the OP fails to maintain this at their risk.

 

[confusedcyclist]

2) try moving the cable from the rear end, if it moves freely fine, if it feel stiff, replace it. 3) then try shifting.

Personally I wouldn't move straight to binning it, although I have been guilty of doing so in the past. A soak in degreaser, scrub, and a soak again (clean fluid each time) and thorough spray with a water displacer, dry down and then oiling of all moving parts and a bit of tensing and relaxing the springs can work out any seizes. Don't forget to keep it lubed regularly to prevent seizing.

 

[T4tomo]

Personally I wouldn't move straight to binning it, although I have been guilty of doing so in the past. A soak in degreaser, and thorough spray with GT85 and re-lubrication of all moving parts and a bit of tensing and relaxing the springs can work out any seizes. Don't forget to keep it lubed regularly to prevent seizing.

I was referring to replacing the inner cable not the mech!

 

[confusedcyclist]

I was referring to replacing the inner cable not the mech!

Oh sorry! Still, good advice for the mech!